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Introduction to Venice / Gondola / First time in Venice questions

As always, thanks everyone in advance. Booked for next March. Tacked on a couple of days on either end to get a half day in Milan and 2.5 days in Venice. First time in Venice. Have a couple of questions. We will be there between March 13-15.

1) When we visit a new city, one of our more enjoyable activities is an overview tour of that city. Greatest example of that was the Paris by Citroen (and champagne) tour our first night there that a fellow poster had recommended. So...is there a Venice by Gondola overview tour that anyone here has been on or heard of? I'm not talking about approaching random Gandoliers and asking them if they are familiar with the history of the city, speak English and can tow us around for a couple of hours. Looking for something pre-bookable. Have done versions of this in Paris, Belfast and Liverpool previously.

2) With the dates of our trip, I fully expect to have flooding issues. Can you rent boots? I'll buy boots and donate them if I have to while I'm there. But I don't want to take up precious space in our luggage with Wellies.

3) We fly through Milan. It's important to visit The Last Supper for us before heading to Venice. I don't anticipate getting to Venice until almost 10 PM at night. Is it safe to be at the train station and work our way to wherever we are staying at that hour? Can we find a meal at 10:30? I know that's possible in a lot of cities, but from what I read, it appears Venice is sleepier than other European cities.

Posted by
2948 posts

Instead of taking a costly gondola ride, you’ll see more by taking a vaporetto (water bus) between the train station and San Marco Square at twilight. This way you won’t see the decay on the exterior of the palaces that line the Grand Canal. Instead, you’ll see giant crystal chandeliers that illuminate the foyers. This is my favorite activity in Venice besides getting lost.
If you want to ride a gondola, you can do this too without paying an exorbitant amount of money by crossing the canal instead of hiring a private gondolier: https://www.venicewelcome.com/info/public_transportation/gondola_traghetto_across_the_grand_canal..htm.
In case there’s flooding, you can buy inexpensive golden plastic boots that you can wear over your shoes: https://venicetravelblog.com/2014/09/goldon-acqua-alta-boots.html. You can purchase them from street vendors and souvenir shops. Probably a good idea to buy them when you first see them just in case.

Posted by
6502 posts

The RS guidebook for Italy includes several pages describing a trip down the Grand Canal by vaporetto. You could do worse than simply follow this basic route, taking turns reading the descriptions to each other as you approach the buildings and bridges.

I think you'd be safe walking around Venice at any hour. Pickpockets are a hazard in crowded places but you probably won't encounter any late at night. And I expect you'll have late dinner options too, best idea would be to check with whatever hotel you choose.

The highest tides are generally between October and January, though you might encounter some flooding in March. I understand that cheap lightweight boots magically appear for sale when it floods, much as umbrellas sprout everywhere in Paris when it rains. Certainly there's no need to pack Wellies.

Posted by
170 posts

Thank you, both. Had never heard of Goldon's. What a great idea (and tip). Thankyou.

MaryPat - we will most certainly take advantage of the Vaporettos. Thank you.

Regarding the gondola rides - it's less the gondola itself and more the overview of the city. We've found that we love a city more once we have someone contextualize the city for us early on in our trip. Looking to do that maybe the first morning we are there to familiarize ourselves

Posted by
6049 posts

Just a note
A Vaporetto is like a public water bus
Water taxis are small privately owned boats
Completely different

Posted by
7357 posts

Now that you mention it, I guess that Venice is one of the major cities in Europe that doesn’t have Hop-On, Hop-Off buses, or Petite Train tours. As for a 2-hour spin of Venice, I’ll bet there’s someone who operates a motorboat for that, although I don’t know who does. Venice is a different kind of place, so maybe will need a somewhat differ approach than Paris, Belfast, or Liverpool, and might take more than your first night.

Do spring for a private gondola at some point. It’s a quintessential Venice experience. Rick Steves mentions that afternoons are cheaper than nighttime, but the atmosphere at night is magical, and you get what you pay for. Your gondolier might speak English, might point out some highlights, or might just offer a song along with propelling you along canals.

For a tour - walking - that offers history and/or art in detail, look at Michael and Venicescapes: http://www.venicescapes.org/ . It’s not cut-rate, but again, you get what you pay for. Our tour was a highlight on our last trip.

Posted by
1223 posts

Navigating around Venice at 10:30 at night will be very challenging; make sure you have directions and a paper map.
At 10:30 you will struggle to find a meal, a picnic on the Milan/Venice train ride might be a good idea.

Posted by
5697 posts

As Sam mentioned, the Rick Steves free audio tour of the Grand Canal is very good -- download it at home. get on a vaporetto and have Rick in your ear pointing out sights. Vaporetto is about €7.50 per ride, so you might consider a day pass or multi-day pass. Gondola is more like €90.
Also think about picking up dinner in Milan and eating on the train at your usual time.

Posted by
11156 posts

Gondolas take you down the Grand Canal or a smaller canal. I have never heard of a tour on one. We took a walking tour on the first of our four trips to Venice. The guide ,arranged by our hotel. It really wasn’t necessary as Venice is so small. Buy the Chorus Pass to visit Venice art filled churches and you it will take you into the various neighborhoods.

Posted by
8440 posts

Kevin, how about just hiring a local guide for the day, who can take you around by multiple vaporetto routes, pointing out the sites, etc.? I would still do a gondola ride, but I think its best in the evening when the lights are bright and the traffic on the Grand Canal is lighter.

Posted by
281 posts

In 2019 we took a tour from a local who took us around Venice in his small motorized boat for two hours. He gave us a lovely tour with commentary. We went all around the city including the Grand Canal. He mainly took us to smaller less well-known canals, though, and pointed out the parts of Venice only locals know about. We even went into the entrance of the arsenal and around the gardens. My husband got to drive the boat as well! I checked his website vivivenezia but it is not working. Trip Advisor says he is temporarily closed. Search for Like a Venetian on TA to see reviews. In all, maybe you can find someone who is still doing something like this if that is what you are interested in.

Posted by
32747 posts

March 13-15

I have to say that if you are in Venice in the first half of March you may be lucky but likely you will find it cold. Be prepared. I'd be more worried about that than an unlikely Aqua Alta.

A bit of clarification about transportation in Venice - there is a huge difference between a vaporetto and a water taxi. Both are boats, both are available at Ferrovia, the railway station. But there the similarity ends. Water taxis, as the name suggests, are private transportation for a person or a small group (up to 8) and their luggage just like a regular taxi in any city around the world. You tell them where you want to go and they take you there, or as near as they can, and then pay them - a lot.

A vaporetto (not vaporetti - that would be plural although vaporettos is often used in English for plural) is larger and the go-to public transportation for tourists and locals alike. Some of the boat is under cover, some inside a large cabin, and small open area at the stern. For 2 and a half days you could have 3 day passes which works out much cheaper than single tickets.

Gondolas are pure tourist, take 1 to as many as 6 but usually 4, human powered and slow, and generally go on relatively short set routes, and are expensive.

While a traghetto is shaped like an older gondola, it is all in black and has plain simple seats (the Venetian custom followed by many locals and few tourists is to stand for the duration of the crossing), is often worded by two men, and the crossing is very quick. The experience is nothing like a tourist gondola experience. They are now much more expensive than they used to be.

I don't see how you work out March 13-15 is 2 and a half days. Is the 13th the day you arrive from Milan? If so an hour or so doesn't count as a day or even a half day, So sleep in Venice 13th into 14th. The 14th is a whole day for sightseeing. Sleep in Venice 14th. Half a day of sightseeing on the 15th before you set off for the next destination? Except you'll spend part of that half day packing, checking out and putting the luggage somewhere to wait for you. I make it 2 nights in Venice and a day and a bit of sightseeing... have I got it wrong?

Venice is somewhat earlier for dinner time than many other Italian cities. By 10:30 even most of the pizza-by-the-slice places along tourist routes will be packing up, especially in March. Carnival will be over by 2 weeks and the city will be quiet in Lent. Maybe the McDonalds on Strada Nova will be open, but probably not - even it usually closes by 10. The idea of using the train as a dining room and packing a picnic is an excellent idea. It will be dark out so you won't be missing any scenery so you can give full attention to the food....

Part of the difficulty for first-timers trying to navigate around Venice in the dark (with luggage?) is that many of the quite common signs pointing you on your way are up high and yellow. And the lighting in Venice (I'd call it street lighting but there aren't streets) is somewhat yellow tinged so the signs kind of disappear. That may slow you down a bit. Best to have very clear directions and a good map.

Posted by
15807 posts

Kevin, I'll also vote for a walking tour for your "overview" as you'll be able to go places the boats don't, and be able to take a look inside some interesting places as you go along. If doing a self-guided adventure with, say, Rick's audio tour, and if you enjoy churches, here a link to info about the Chorus Pass recommended by Suki:

https://www.chorusvenezia.org/en

On foot may also be more comfortable than a boat in March when your days could be damp and chilly. That said, it doesn't need to be your ONLY poke around the historic island; add a couple hops on vaporetti and/or a gondola ride at whim. :O)

Posted by
170 posts

Sldaisy - thank you. That’s exactly what I was looking for. I’ll try and find him. Hope he’s not closed for good.

Posted by
170 posts

Thank you everyone.

Plan was to arrive 3/13 at night and leave 3/16 after lunch. Stay in Venice 13, 14 and 15 nights. Thanks to whom ever had the advice about might be tough to get around Venice at night the first night. Very helpful. May now consider staying in Milan the first night and taking the first direct train to Venice on Monday morning.

We’re big fans of Rick’s audio tours. Saved us a ton of money in Europe just by plugging into our phones and listening to him. Not shy obviously to spend the money for a private tour operator but the waking tour might be the play here

Posted by
76 posts

Totally agree re: his audio tour. Best to simply listen to it ahead of time and then just wander throughout the main and side streets.
My major tip is to wander early morning and again late evening...that's when the magic of Venice occurs. Been there 5x, and haver never paid for a gondola, only the traghetto to cross the canal. See your money for food and drink!

Posted by
2948 posts

A Vaporetto is like a public water bus

Thanks ChristineH, I meant to say bus not taxi so I edited my post.

Posted by
1223 posts

If you are looking for a bite to eat late at night, Campo Margherita in Dorsoduro sees a bit of action. Not exactly the night club district, but the Campo does find a bunch of uni students drinking spritzes and lining up for pizza by the slice pretty late.
They are a good natured crowd, maybe the occasional whif of dope smoke, but no big deal.
Check out the Banksy by the bridge at the north / campanile end of the Campo.

Posted by
71 posts

The vaporetto is terrible. There is no joy riding it as it is insanely packed with people. Maybe if you were able to get lucky and catch the #1 from P. Roma you could land a seat in the front or back.

Posted by
20086 posts

Depends on the time of day. During commuter hours, yes, they get packed, especially if you add in day trippers and cruise ship passengers. Other times, no problems. If you look at kursed30's itinerary, they arrived at Venice S. Lucia at 10:38 am. They were warned by Nigel that they would be arriving at prime day-trippers time, and in August to boot.

Posted by
4697 posts

We used Row Venice a few years ago. Just Google them, hopefully they are still in business, It was 90 minutes and included rowing lessons on the back canals- all under 100 Euros for a group of four- was great fun!

Posted by
109 posts

Because I am an architecture / history nerd, I was painfully aware of how wrong most of our gondolier's information was. I am certain he was just making up dates and facts on the fly. The average tourist probably wouldn't care - they would just enjoy the ride. But if you are genuinely interested in getting an informative overview of the city, hiring a professional guide with a boat is the way to go.

Covid has impacted the operating hours of many businesses... The safest bet would be to pick up your (last) supper in Milan.
Enjoy your trip!