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"il dolce far niente?"

"il dolce far niente"-- the sweetness of doing nothing!

I wrote a post with the same title three years ago, and I truly enjoyed reading your responses; so I thought it was time to write once again.

Last Fall I took my first solo trip to Italy and I experienced many sweet moments of doing nothing... Here are a few of those moments...

  • Watching the sunrise over Lake Maggiore from my hotel window
  • Savoring a creamy gelato while window shopping
  • Walking along a lakeside promenade and watching two brown labradors swimming in the lake and fetching a stick thrown by their owner
  • Collecting lake glass on the tiny shore of Lake Maggiore across from my hotel
  • Walking on the walls of Lucca as the sun was setting
  • Watching a lovely young couple with their beautiful toddler on a long train ride
  • Sitting in a church and taking in its peaceful quietness and its beauty
  • Admiring the green rolling hills of beautiful Umbria

I'd love to read your stories of "il dolce far niente!" ;-)

Posted by
3272 posts
  • The view of Lake Como , the city of Como and the Alps from Brunate
  • Viewing the sunrise over the Magdalena Archipelago on the ferry from Sardinia to Corsica.
  • Sitting on the patio of the Guggenheim Museum in Venice at dusk as the colors of the palazzos on the Canale Grande bask in the fading sunlight.
  • Driving through a small Spanish village on an early Sunday morning and stopping at the churros stand for churros and hot chocolate.
  • Disused castles in the middle of nowhere.
  • An unexpected snowfall in Paris a few days after Christmas.
  • Viewing the blood red trunk of a tree from which cork has been harvested in Portugal.

I think I could list things for hours...

Posted by
5293 posts

Philip,
Thanks for sharing such beautiful moments!

I'm curious, where is that small Spanish village where you got hot chocolate and churros?

Posted by
396 posts

Thanks for sharing Priscilla!
I have done several of those "sweet nothings" in the same places...(as you well know).
Some of my favs:
Sleeping with my window open in Cannobio and hearing the trickling of the water in the fountain outside.
Sitting on the promenade and watching the boats come and go.
Having a picnic on the walls in Lucca (cheese, crackers and peaches never tasted so good!)
Watching children play and ride a small merry-go-round in a park in Lucca.
Sitting in a church in Gaggio Montano that my grandfather attended.

Time to go back and make my memories!
your friend,
karren

Posted by
2192 posts

Wow, how time flies! Here's a few:

Tuscany - Attending Vespers at the Abbey of Monte Oliveto Maggiore. The service was worshipped in Gregorian chant. We were invited to sit up among the monks. There were the monks, one lady from a nearby town, Deb and me.

Lingering at breakfast at Castillo di Verrazzano. We were the only guests at the agriturismo for the week. While we were anxious to get on the road, we stayed longer at breakfast to get to know Marco and Isabella better. Marco was really working to improve his English and in exchange he taught us some common Italian phrases.

Staying late at Volterra. We walked outside the walls going back to the parking deck. The townsfolk were out on the promenade in the late afternoon. We hung around and watched the sun setting. The sun was gorgeous on the buildings of the town and the quality of light constantly changed. We ended up staying past dusk. One of my favorite photos of the trip was taken then.

Paris - We arrived late to our B&B and our hosts insisted on fixing a simple dinner instead of us trying to find a café. We sat out on their terrace and drank wine and shared a wonderful potato soup and salad. They went far above and beyond during our stay and we insisted on treating them to dinner at their favorite local restaurant. We dined with them and Dominique's 92 year old mother, who was a hoot! I tried escargot for the first time and loved it!

Posted by
6505 posts

Unfortunately, I'm not very good at doing nothing. However, when we travel we make a point of joining the passeggiata or paseo. It's a nice way to end the day.

Posted by
2075 posts

Well, Priscilla, you're always doing something... :)

But it's the unexpected 'something/nothings' that I remember...

(Rome) took the Metro, had lunch, walked to San Pietro in Vincoli (St. Peter-in-Chains). Closed (during the middle of the day!!) for another hour before they reopen. What are you going to do? We sat on a stone bench on the portico, heads resting against the church, and napped on & off. Also, down at the bottom of the steps was a little cruddy food truck that was selling water. Walked down there, they were also selling gelato, got some in a cone. Best gelato of the trip, no lie.

(Lucerne) wandering on each side of the Reuss river on a crisp, clear late winter day in Switzerland. About 35 degrees but a strong sun, however. Stopped at a pickle vendor (when will I see another one of those?!), then the Rathaus Brauerie, where we sat with the other Lucerne crazies eating lunch outside in winter and enjoyed boiled beef with slivered onions on a pretzel roll with dill sauce and their lager. Fabulous.

(Paris) I'm a musician and an organ buff, so we had to go to RS-recommended St. Sulpice for Sunday Mass. In this drafty, ancient, echoey church, traditional Mass in Latin, we sat in back and for a fleeting moment I felt transported back in time. Same words and cadences from 400+ years before. Very unexpectedly moved, almost to tears, with the kicker being the post-Mass mini-concert on the pipe organ by Daniel Roth, only the 15th organist at St. Sulpice since 1604. I saw all their signatures on a posted, gnarled paper on the wall. The notes & chords sounded like the voice of God. Talk about being transported!

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740 posts

Enjoying my morning cappucino on the restaurant terrace overlooking Lake Lugano in Gandria, Switzerland.

Evening Pentecost service at the cathedral in Orvieto.

Sitting on a bench above Gimmelwald looking at the mountains and valleys.

Posted by
5293 posts

Hi Karren, DougMac, Jane, Jay and Eric,
Thanks for sharing your sweet memories!

Karren,
One of these days I want to stay in your favorite hotel in Cannobio!

DougMac,

While we were anxious to get on the road, we stayed longer at
breakfast to get to know Marco and Isabella better.

Will you share the name of that B&B in Paris with the lovely and generous hosts?

I love reading about your wonderful memories!

Jane,

Unfortunately, I'm not very good at doing nothing. However, when we travel we make a point of joining the passeggiata or paseo. It's a nice way to end the day.

I definitely think that enjoying a passeggiata counts as a "dolce far niente!"

Jay,

Well, Priscilla, you're always doing something... :)

But it's the unexpected 'something/nothings' that I remember...

You're absolutely right!
It's about enjoying/appreciating those small fleeting moments or sights that remain in our minds as lovely memories.

Years ago I read a book which dared me to write a thousand things I was grateful for. This took a few months to accomplish but it helped me realize that there are things/moments that we often take for granted every single day.
My list included simple things such as; waking up in the morning and hearing the birds singing outside my window, doing laundry and folding my loved ones clothes (I know, right!?), eating dinner with my family, watching my children getting along, etc, etc...

I look forward to reading more of your beautiful memories! ;-)

Posted by
2192 posts

Will you share the name of that B&B in Paris with the lovely and generous hosts?

I love reading about your wonderful memories!

Thanks! We found them through Alcove and Agapes They were wonderful to work with. You select your preference, then submit a booking request for the dates you'd like to be there. On the booking request you describe yourself, including your interests. Your request is forwarded to the host who decides whether they will accept it. This may sound a little snooty, but it assured we found hosts (and they found guests) who were compatible.

You pay a reasonable booking fee when you reserve the room and pay the balance in cash to your hosts.

Posted by
7150 posts

Climbing Arthur’s Seat and watching the sun set over Edinburgh. The climb was not ‘doing nothing’ but definitely experienced ‘il dolce far niente’ while watching that sunset.

In Tiananmen Square, Beijing sitting and watching a grandfather help his (about 4 year old) grandson learn to fly a kite.
Getting an ice cream in Annecy and enjoying it while walking along the lakeshore.

Strolling along the Seine most evenings on my way back to my apartment in le Marais and letting the stress and excitement of the daily sightseeing just melt away.

Sitting on the balcony of our hotel in Montreux and watching the sun rise over the lake.

Sitting on the balcony of our hotel in Zermatt and watching the moon rise over the mountains.

Having a ‘park bench’ picnic in Pere LaChaise cemetery enjoying the quiet and peaceful atmosphere and admiring some of the most fabulous and unique cemetery monuments and mausoleums I’ve ever seen.

Spending at least an hour watching people play chess on the giant outdoor chessboard in Kapitelplatz in Salzburg.

Posted by
2075 posts

Priscilla--

How about the simple pleasure (to some it might be an annoyance) of being woken up each early morning, almost pleasantly as I got used to it after a couple days, by the 'buon giorno' calls of the fruit vendors to each other as they set up their carts and their wares one floor down from our apartment that overlooked the daily Campo dei Fiori market in Rome. Their catcalls and the echoes of the carts scraping across the cobblestones reverberated off the perimeter buildings on the piazza. No other sounds as it was before 6AM.

Posted by
7150 posts

How about the simple pleasure (to some it might be an annoyance) of being woken up each early morning...

Jay, I agree. I stayed in a small town in France and my hotel room overlooked the main street. Sure enough, the next day was market day and I was awakened, not as early as you, around 7:00 am by the vendors setting up their booths. Very noisy as some of them were actually building their stands - think hammer and nails. But as I watched the meat vendor setting up his rotisserie chickens (ubiquitous to French markets), I was actually anxious for it to be lunchtime.

It's funny how something that would probably be annoying at home can be pleasant when traveling.

Posted by
5293 posts

Eric,

Evening Pentecost service at the cathedral in Orvieto.

Thanks for reminding me about Orvieto and it's beautiful cathedral!

One late afternoon, while walking back to my hotel on Piazza del Duomo, I walked into the cathedral and a wedding ceremony was in progress, I sat in the back row and enjoyed being part of this special event; especially since I'd seen the young couple at another church ( rehearsing for the ceremony) the day before!

DougMac,Thanks for sharing the b&b link!

Nancy, thanks for sharing such sweet memories!
My daughter studied in Edinburgh and it's one of her favorite cities to date!
Oh, Annecy... We loved their gelato and their crystal clear lake too!

Switzerland is on my bucket list and hope to get there sometime in the future ;-)

Jay, and Nancy:

How about the simple pleasure (to some it might be an annoyance) of being woken up each early morning...

It's funny how something that would probably be annoying at home can be pleasant when traveling.

I've been woken up by church bells ringing, and I love it!

While visiting Lake Maggiore last September, I overheard a couple (tourists sitting at an adjacent table at the hotel's restaurant) complaining about "those annoying church bells... every morning!"

Posted by
3456 posts

Hearing the church bells as you wake up in Italy in the mornings.
Sitting on a balcony in your apartment rental and watching life in the street or garden below, as you have your coffee or prosecco.
People watching on European trains.
Pretending you live in Italy while you are there for a language course.

Posted by
5293 posts

S Jackson,

Pretending you live in Italy while you are there for a language course.

I love it!

Where did you take the language course?

Posted by
278 posts

Lynton England Exmoor National Park
Sitting on a bench by the ocean by a steep hill descending into it, goats walking on the foot path and descending the steep hill, obscured by the fern.

Rome:
One single night of an eight day trip, all spent in Florence, found a talented cello player in front of the Pantheon. Stayed to listen to his classical music for a long time.

Verona:
First opera. Italian man leaned over to ask if I liked it. Awesome.

Posted by
3456 posts

Priscilla:
I took a course at the Koine School in Florence in 2010, and another one at the Koine School in Lucca in 2012.
In Florence there were only 3 of us in the class, and it was wonderful.
In Lucca, there were about 12, and it wasn't so great.
If you couldn't keep up, they didn't show much mercy!
Wasn't impressed with the Lucca branch.

Posted by
7763 posts

Hi Pricilla!

My best "il dolce far niente" are the ones I've been picturing in my mind as I'm planning my upcoming trip to Italy! ; )

Great memories of "il dolce far niente" from past trips in Italy:
- A few slow dance steps together at night in San Marco, even though we were the only couple dancing.
- Enjoying an afternoon gelato in many piazzas
- Sunset at Cinque Terre
- Lingering over many breakfasts with a second cup of espresso, enjoying the moment
- Listening to talented evening street music from our open window of the hotel in Grosseto
- Strolling through the maze of Venice with no destination in mind - just enjoying the beauty
- Walking through cemeteries early in the morning when people are watering flowers at graves
- Watching two ladies drying hay in Moena (Dolomites) by throwing it in the air with rakes
- Feeling a bit of connection with the Italian families engaged in their animated conversations (with lots of hand gestures) sitting near us late at night at a restaurant, even though we don't know what they're saying.
- Putting our feet up at the end of another wonderful day in Italy!

Posted by
5293 posts

S Jackson,

Thanks for the information about the Koine School in Florence!

In Florence there were only 3 of us in the class, and it was wonderful.

Ttmom,

Thanks for sharing your sweet memories!

Verona:
First opera. Italian man leaned over to ask if I liked it. Awesome.

Now I want to return to Verona so I can experience an opera in that wonderful amphitheater!

Jean,

My best "il dolce far niente" are the ones I've been picturing in my mind as I'm planning my upcoming trip to Italy! ; )

I look forward to reading about all those wonderful memories upon your return! ; )

Wishing you an amazing trip!

Posted by
19 posts
  • Sitting next to my Groom on a bench in a sunbeam on Piazza Santa Croce, Florence
  • Sipping Sambuca on the terrace of our BnB in Pistoia, while my Groom took a nap
  • Watching Friends, "The One With Rachel's Date" where Chandler's coworker thinks his name is Toby. Even though I do not understand Italian, I immediately knew the episode.
  • Eating Gelato at Sunset in Orvieto
  • Listening to the cellphone conversations in Italian on the Rome subway. I think everyone was talking to their Mom. "MaMa!" "MaMa!" ☺
  • Sitting on a log with my Groom on the beach at Ostia Lido, gazing out at the Mediterranean Sea
  • Sitting on our rooftop terrace in Rome, watching/listening to the neighbors watch a football game on TV
Posted by
768 posts
  • Getting up in the middle of the night to watch a thunderstorm in Switzerland. I was reminded of Mary Shelly's Frankenstein!
  • Drinking an Aperol spritz and people watching in Piazza delle Erbe, Verona, during the passeggiata.
  • The surprise of hearing an actual cuckoo bird singing while hiking in the Dolomites.
  • Listening to the romantic song, La Vie en Rose, played on accordion by a street musician in Nîmes, France.
  • Enjoying a hot cup of tea on a rainy day in Collioure, France while attempting to read a French Newspaper.
Posted by
1563 posts

Here's my most recent one, rather strange. After two weeks in Puglia with five other family members including three year old and a five month old grandchildren, we flew to FCO, took the train to Ostiense, and accidentally exited on the wrong side of the station carrying two car seats, a stroller, a travel cot, and ten bags (small ones but, yes, ten). We got around to Piazza Ostiense and I offered to sit with half of the stuff across the street from the pyramid while the others checked into the Airbnb apartment, then return for me. So I sat on a wall for a good 45 minutes, with a pile of car seats, etc. and watched people and traffic. And felt just completely happy to be in Rome, in Testaccio, again, and looking at the pyramid and Porta San Paolo and ancient wall, while the sun set. Maybe doing absolutely nothing for the first time in weeks had something to do with it!

Posted by
5293 posts

Thanks PNWsurfer, Christine and Nancy for sharing your special and sweet memories!

PNWsurfer,

Congratulations on your marriage!
May you continue making many enjoyable memories together❤️

Eating Gelato at Sunset in Orvieto.

Listening to the cellphone conversations in Italian on the Rome
subway. I think everyone was talking to their Mom. "MaMa!" "MaMa!" ☺

I can’t wait to eat the delicious Italian gelato once again!

How sweet... I always ask my children to call me when they arrive to their destination ;-)

Christine,

The surprise of hearing an actual cuckoo bird singing while hiking in the Dolomites.

Listening to the romantic song, La Vie en Rose, played on accordion by a street musician in Nîmes, France.

One of these days I hope to make it to the Dolomites and will ask you for your recommendations!

I love that song! Have you watched the movie Sabrina (with Harrison Ford)?

Nancy,

So I sat on a wall for a good 45 minutes, with a pile of car seats, etc. and watched people and traffic. And felt just completely happy to be in Rome, in Testaccio, again, and looking at the pyramid and Porta San Paolo and ancient wall, while the sun set. Maybe doing absolutely nothing for the first time in weeks had something to do with it!

You sound like an amazing grandmother!

Posted by
19 posts

Priscilla,

Thank you so much for the congratulations. He has been my Groom for almost 22 amazing years now ☺. Still honeymooning and making memories!

Posted by
5293 posts

PNWsurfer,

Still honeymooning and making memories!

Fabulous! : )

Posted by
123 posts

What a wonderful thread, Priscilla! I have thoroughly enjoyed our fellow travelers' stories of their favorite "il dolce far niente" experiences. Reading such fun anecdotes reminds me of some of my favorite sweetness of doing nothing (or very little) moments:

  • Rome: Meeting 3 of the most interesting ladies on one of my small group tours on my first trip to Rome. These ladies have been friends for over 30 years and have traveled together to many countries together over those years. Over a long and delicious lunch post-tour, these lovely ladies shared many stories of their travels together, as well as their interests in continued education in retirement. Their motivation and keen desire to keep learning inspired me deeply, and I am grateful to them for many recommendations of sites and activities that I have enjoyed in subsequent trips to Italy.
  • London: During a full day of sightseeing with a lot of walking, I stopped in at Middle Temple with the intention of visiting Temple Church. Instead, the empty benches and late afternoon sun filtering through the trees around the fountain court in Middle Temple beckoned for a brief rest between tours. I thoroughly enjoyed people-watching as barristers in full kit transferred from their offices around Middle Temple to the courts, as well as watching pre-services crowds chatting and laughing outside Temple Church. A moment of serene calm in an otherwise very busy day.
  • Florence: The snow day on my trip this year. When Palazzo Pitti stayed closed due to the snow, I tossed all plans for the day and instead decided to enjoy a slow mosey around the historic city center to simply experience the city in this rare snow occasion. Parents watched their kids play in piazzas, and the kids enjoyed being out of school to the max! Taking little videos of the snow in Piazza della Signoria, outside the Bargello, and in Piazza Santa Croce to share with my family back home was such a treat. Enjoying a warm apple strudel inside a bakery was the perfect break from the cold and wet day.

Thank you for the reminder to make the most of these moments, and I look forward to many more!