How to spend a quiet day in or around Rome

When I saw your title but before reading your post, my first thought was the Appian Way. We did this on our first trip to Rome and it was so blessedly peaceful. Now, this was '08, so I'm not sure if it's busier now. We didn't do the bicycling, just took the bus out to the catacombs, did the tour at (I believe) San Callisto, popped into some of the ruins and just wandered.

My other suggestion would be Ostia Antica. Easily reached via metro. When we went (it was early Sept) it was fairly quiet. And if you want to see more ruins, we found it quite interesting.

If you just want to hang out in Rome, you could wander the Borghese Gardens - it's quite vast, there is a zoo, and you can rent bikes and other conveyances to get around. (I remember these carriage looking things for 4 people that you peddled like a bike - I don't really know how to describe them - looked so neat, but we didn't do it).

Get lost. No, I mean it. You have to have a good map and a bus/Metro pass, and off you go.

Two years ago, we visited friends from Chicago that winter in Rome (how cool is that?!), and they had rented an apartment decidedly outside the tourist area, up north of Porta Pia on via Nomentana. We took a bus from the stop near Campo de' Fiori to Termini, switched to a different bus, then up to their apartment.

To a certain extent, it could've been a neighborhood in Chicago or New York, but with a European flair. After seeing our friends' walk-up, it was taking the bus up to Villa Torlonia, the somewhat-rundown expanse that was the wartime home of Mussolini--fascinating. Then across the street and down a bit to St. Agnese & St. Costantia, where we saw some 3rd-century mosaic that blew our minds. Had our run of the place--no tourists at all.

Finally, they took us to their favorite haunt for an aperatif--a carbonated, non-alcoholic red-colored drink that is supposed to aid in digestion, (Never knew a culture more concerned with digestion!) then to a little place that featured steamed artichokes and some Pugliese dishes as well, finishing with some Amaro Lucano, a brown liqueur I am not fond of...that of course is supposed to aid in digestion, once again!

I could probably repeat this neighborhood feel all over Roma, once you get out of the tourist zone. To me, something like this would be a perfect 1-day perspective on my favorite city, and a counterpoint to all the tourist attractions.

On our last trip (2018), we took a nice leisurely stroll through Borghese Gardens and enjoyed it very much, plus it's free! On a previous trip we also went to Ostia Antica and would agree that it makes for a lovely day outside of the city. Another place to walk and see nice views, air quality permitting, is the Giancolo Hill (Janiculum). Also on that walk is Bramante's Tempietto and the Fontana dell'Acqua Paola (featured in the movie The Great Beauty. Since we were staying in the Termini area, we took a taxi to the Tempietto and then walked from there. Very enjoyable. The DK Eyewitness Travel Guide has several of these types of walks outlined, which you can tailor to your own needs and interests. We've found it very useful. Buon viaggio!

Get lost. No, I mean it. You have to have a good map and a bus/Metro pass, and off you go.

lol! I totally agree with Jay (Chicago) "Finding your own lost" can be great! It can be something simple or a "wow" moment.

Sometimes, the "best" memories can be happenstance (getting lost) as suggested. You may discover things off the beaten path.

My first time to Rome, I wanted to visit a place I read about. It was early afternoon (maybe after 2:00 ish? - a bit of a late start for there. I somehow got on a wrong bus; misunderstood the directions or whatever according to Google map < Not always correct..

Anyway, I decided to stay on the bus instead of getting off and waiting for the opposite return. I figured it would start to get dark in a couple of hours since it was December.

The bus traveled out from the city centre, to the outskirts of Rome - saw some interesting sights and neighborhoods and homes on the main drag.

To me, that was relaxing in a way -- a little rest -- sitting there just watching peeps go about their daily lives - I did not have to worry about a time clock or meeting someone, pushing through a crowd. I drank my water, lol, had my little snack.

The bus eventually returned to Termini -- my hotel was there anyway -- most if not all return to the bus depot. So, mhmm, it was 'about' a couple of hours of time - no biggie really.

When I returned to the Termini neighborhood, I walked around, then returned to my hotel to get ready for dinner -- could not wait for my Tortellini Bolognese and Pinot Grigio!

Given your son is an archaeology/history major, I'm thinking a day out on the Appia might be just the ticket. Our own day on the "Regina Viarum" has been our favorite so far of our time in the Eternal City. There is lots and lots to see out there, from crumbling tombs to the best-preserved circus in Italy (Villa di Massenzio/Villa of Maxentius, and I believe it's free now) to the excavation of a private bath complex (Capo di Bove, also free and has signage in English), catacombs, etc.

One caution? It's still an active road and other than Sundays, when they close it to traffic, it's pretty busy on the end closest to the city Porta S.Sebastiano out to Chiesa del Domine Quo Vadis and a bit beyond. We started clear out near Casal Rotondo, where it's rural and very quiet early in the morning, and worked our way backwards into the city on foot. Yes, bikes will work too and you'll cover ground with them quicker than we did on foot so can ride out as far as you wish and then back. If you haven't found the Parco Appia Antica website yet:

https://www.parcoappiaantica.it

The catacombs open to visitors can only be accessed with a guided tour (fee) but those are available right at the sites: just sign up for the next one in English.

A little tip for your history major? Do some pre-reading about Maxentius as he's connected to a number of sites - such as the towering basilica in the Roman Forum - and historic notables, most specifically Constantine the Great. I kept running across this dude. :O)

Editing to add: pack along a sammie and some bottled liquid and find a shade tree by some crumbling bit of antiquity for lunch. :O)

Girasole--

Yes, part of the allure of getting out beyond the tourist attractions in Rome, is to observe locals doing nothing more exciting than living their lives, doing their normal business. On an weekday afternoon in early March, viewing people around me, I imagine it was mostly residents heading to & from work, but also friends headed on a shopping adventure or making plans for an extended evening of drinks & dinner. I was able to catch a smidgen of Italian dialogue here and there while on the bus, and when one says 'Ci vediamo dopo al bar' to the other while exiting the bus at her stop, I knew it was to meet up later at the bar. They like to stop and smell the flowers--la dolce far niente--as much as the rest of Italy, even if it's the country's busiest city. I liked that.

And my impression of the locals in general, just from riding the bus & Metro numerous times during the week, was that while not overtly friendly, they were happy to answer a question I would have in Italian (or English) if need be, and then would be curious about where we were from. They seemed happy to have us interlopers in their midst, not paranoid at all, not condescending like I've observed in other countries...(uh, just Paris).

That's why I say that Rome absorbs tourists better than anyplace in the country.

Kathy has some great advice for you. The Appia Antica, further out, is lovely and peaceful.

Another nearby option, although getting between them is a bit of a logistics challenge (taxi might be best), is the Parco degli Acquedotti. It is wonderful to see those aqueduct remnants and meander among them.

Top Bikes, located not far from the Coliseum, offers a tour on electric assist bikes of the Appian Way, catacombs and aqueduct Park, plus a stop at a sheep farm for pecorino, bread and wine. Great fun and a good way to relax on your last day in Rome. The route is easy and groups are small (mine was five plus the guide). Highly recommend!

hey hey ptlovesot
agree with jay and girasole, "get lost" LOL
3 years ago, my friend and i were in amsterdam and decided to ride the tram till end of line from rembrandt plaza. went from the touristy areas and canals, to local neighborhoods, further on to who knows where, no idea. thot we'd stay on till tram turned around to go back. got locked in, conductor outside looks at us and yells in dutch HUH?? we were to get off and wait for another tram. took a few minutes to open doors to let us out. found someone that spoke english telling us our wrong, we laughed so so much and after awhile they did too, probably thinking "of course it's americans" a scene to see. waited for next tram and told us where to get off at other end. another memory in our book.
where ever you go have fun, don't stress and just go with the flow. it's easier to smile. when we returned back to our apartment told our other two friends what happened and they thot "only could happen to you two crazy friends", should have went back to plaza to breathe in all the "smoke" at the coffeeshop! haha
aloha

Ahh Jay, sounds like your experience is what I would enjoy also!

It is wonderful that you were able to sit back, relax and absorb it all. :)

Thank you for your suggestions. I'm drawn to the Appia Antica and may walk instead of bike ride. I still haven't looked into the Ostia Antica, but will do that before deciding for sure. This is for a Saturday and I'm sure that the city and parks will be busy. On previous trips, my husband and I did lots of meandering, taking the trams to the end of the route, etc. But those were 3 weeks trips (taken in our 20's) and we felt that we had time to be leisurely. This time, son and I are limited to 4 days in Rome. So much to see, so little time.

I too recommend Ostia Antica. My day visit there was so relaxing. You can get lost in this site. Picture Pompeii without all the people. Ruins are so accessible. I really enjoyed this break from the City. Another thing you can do after touring the ancient port of Ostia Antica is hopping on the commuter train to the next stop (or two) and visit the modern city and visit the beach, and have lunch. It where Roman locals go for a day at the beach. Great place for a walk and lots of bars/restaurants. Have a great rrip.