How to order cicchetti

Well, I can share my experience - I visited the same place three times. I waited until the person behind the counter could get to me, ordered mostly by pointing, I must confess, asked for a beverage (white wine once, a Spritz once, and fizzy water, once), then paid and took everything outside to eat and drink - propped it on the wall next to the canal. Lots of others (many of whom I'm guessing were local folks) were doing the same. Brought the plate, etc. back in to dispose of.

Once you get to the counter, you can just point to what you would like. “Uno” and “Si” work pretty well. At Cantina Schiavoni, once your food is plated up, she (and it is a she) hands your plate to the barman. Ask him for what you would like to drink, and pay him for both food and drink.

If you intend taking your food outside, ask for plastique, as you are not allowed to take glass or crockery outside.

You could take Allesandros tour, it was great! I did that when I was traveling by myself.

This time I’m traveling with my husband and 2 daughters, and I might try to figure this all out on my own.

The place I went was very small and crowded, and if I recall correctly, the lady behind the counter asked whether I wanted to eat outside. It was fun being outside by the canal in the dark!

You can also ask, in English or in fumbling Italian ("Pagare adesso (now?) o dopo (later?)"). You will be understood. If you are just eating at the counter or at an inside table, they will have you pay later, and keep a running tab of your cicchetti and drinks. Either way, go with the flow.

I have various favourite bacari for the little snackie things. I visit several every trip, and I'm looking forward to more treats this June.

They are all a bit different from each other and the easiest thing is to pop in and watch for a couple of minutes to see how each one works.

I normally go at lunch time and don't drink alcohol. My spellings below are in Veneziana, the local dialect of Italian.

At my favourite, Cantinone del Vino Già Schiavi, which is towards the south end of Dorsoduro opposite the Squero where gondolas are built and repaired (look out for all the geraniums in the window boxes - they were originally Austrian craftsmen) there are no seats. You just wander in, wander up to the glass display of the labelled prepared cichèti - drool - and point. The lady in the white coat (been there for years and years) behind the counter actually has a little English (very little) but the bartenders just behind her certainly have good English and will help if needed. You can either stand around inside using your hands to hold your plate in one hand and a glass in the other (try it!) or there are a few little shelves at various places along the walls, but generally do what everybody does and take your prizes outside and put the plate on the wall of the canal and watch the world go by. You pay when you receive the food or drink. Take cash. Prices are moderate and taste excellent. Be adventurous. If there is a small chance you don't like something don't go and get more of that item. It won't have cost much per item. But like Dim Sum, it can add up if you don't stop. Dorsoduro 992, near Ponte (bridge) San Trovaso.

At ae Do Spade near Rialto Market and Pensione Guerrato, you can take your plate and sit at a little table if there is one free or they will come to the table and take an order (more expensive from the menu at the table). Also perhaps the world's smallest toilet I wonder. The cichèti tend to be very traditional. Friendly staff, some speak English, better if you try some Italian. Pointing works well.... Prices add up quickly. Tends to be very busy. I've never taken anything outside the door. Ordering at the table gets you more larger dishes primarily of fish, and that is a good way to spend a lot of money. San Polo 860, on Calle do Spade.

do Mori just nearby is open less reliably but tends to have food all afternoon (or at least longer than many), very tasty even though they do have surimi "crab legs", lots of fun, not cheap. They have been there longer than anybody else with cichèti. A bit dark inside even in mid day. Nice folks. San Polo 429, Calle dei Do Mori. Either one or two tiny tables outside too.

It is hard to go very wrong. Ask your hotel for their favourite bacaro.

Another way I've ordered at Do Spade, when I really can't figure out what is what on the display plates, is to ask the person behind the bar to make a plate for about 12 euros, of just fish and vegetable cicchetti. (I don't eat meat). They mix it up, create a plate of maybe 5-7 different cicchetti, and tell me what each one is. It's an adventure! At Do Spade, I usually order both cicchetti and drink at the bar and pay after I'm all done and about to leave. They keep a running ticket for us at the bar. Do Spade also has menus and table service. The cicchetti eating seems to happen more in the front room, with more menu table service in the two smaller rooms past the bar. Or maybe I'm wrong about that...Re. non-alcoholic drinks: Do Spade has sodas and still and frizzante water. All perfectly acceptable to drink while eating cicchetti!

Here's how I saw the locals do it. Once you get the counter person's attention, you tell them how many items you are going to order TOTAL, e.g. "Quattro" for four. Then you point to the ones you want. They'll put them on a plate for you. Then you go to another part of the counter to pay. (Can't remember if they hand you the plate first, or if it goes to the cashier for you to pick up.)

Thank you so much everyone, especially Nigel for the detail and locations. I've been to Italy once before a few years ago, but my family are first-timers and will expect that when we walk off the plane that I know all things all the time. Cicchetti will be just as new for me as them, and now I feel more confident when they all turn to me. I appreciate all the advice.

wbfey1 - thanks for the Italian phrase help!

jmauldinuu - thank you for addressing the drinks. My family does not drink alcohol but finding a guide book, video, or blog that doesn't incessantly couple Italian food with only wine is next to impossible and leaves non-drinkers feeling like pariahs to the experience.

Peter.S.Aus and Michael - I know my Italian numbers, so thanks for giving me permission to use the only words I really know with your suggestion. I over-complicate interactions and needed the reminder that it can really be that simple. I mean that sincerely.

Thanks to all for great tips. We prefer doing this on our own vs. a guided tour. Looking forward to it. Grazie!