How to fall in love with Rome... (and maybe a restaurant rec)?

I took my adult daughter with me to Italy last August/September for her first trip to Europe (my 7th time to Italy). We ended the trip in Rome, and she enjoyed the entire trip very much!

Since this was supposed to be our 2020 trip, we had extra time to plan & anticipate it. My best advice is that there are absolutely no “must do” spots. Our first time in Rome was with the RS Best of Italy tour, and frankly I remember that time in Rome as very hot and very tiring and didn’t really enjoy our time at the Roman Forum. I wasn’t excited to return to Rome, although I loved Italy. Fast forward a few years, and we ended a Switzerland/Italy independent trip in Rome, and I liked it much more. We went to Ostia Antica, the Galleria Pamphilj, attended a wonderful cooking class and casually enjoyed walking all over in the evening.

For my daughter’s trip, we looked up sites info & photos on the internet, watched YouTube videos, etc. and then I let her pick her priorities. I provided suggestions & enhancements after she chose her 3-4 sites or activities. For instance, I think the Pantheon looks so much more interesting in the evening, along with the walk by the Trevi fountain, etc. so we walked by those on two different evenings. We walked through the Roman forum area one day but didn’t go inside the Vatican. Instead of the Vatican, we stopped into any churches that we walked by and enjoyed several of them. We also did a food tour.

She enjoyed the pace of it and also that although there were a lot of people walking around, we never felt like we were in a crowded situation…except riding the metro. I felt like we both absolutely loved our trip because we were enjoying just being there! Whatever ideas she came up with while we were there, we did them, and the spontaneity also made it more fun.

So much depends on your personal interests, budget, length of the trip, etc., but here are a few personal thoughts. I think it's normal not to immediately fall in love with Rome. I didn't. It can be an acquired taste. My first visit, 40 years ago as a college student, while there were some great experiences, I found the city rather frenetic and overwhelming, it rained a lot, I didn't have much money, we went to Ostia Antica and found it unexpectedly closed, we had trouble making onward travel arrangements for our next stop (Greece), I got an upset stomach, and so forth. Now, after several more visits over the years, it may be my favorite city in the world. The same could happen with your son, or husband if he doesn't love it the first time either. So I would just say take your time and don't try to rush around to every major (let alone minor) site. Rome has dozens of churches worth seeing -- be very selective about those (you don't want to come down with a case of "AFC" -- "another f-in church!"). The church of San Clemente near the Colosseum is wonderful -- not too big, but four different fascinating layers of history. The aforementioned Ostia Antica (which was open on a later trip!) is a very easy excursion from central Rome, and is very interesting and peaceful. It's ok to skip the Vatican -- of course that museum and St. Peter's are world-class, but so huge, packed with tourists and can be exhausting. I don't have a specific restaurant recommendation, as there are hundreds of good ones, but personally, I'm not so much into the "street food" thing -- nothing wrong with it, but I find that, for example, sitting down at a table, with a tablecloth, being professionally served by one of Rome's capable waiters, with a glass of wine to wash down my pizza, is just so much more relaxing and restorative of a good mood than snarfing down a takeout slice, however tasty, on a street corner, and doesn't necessarily cost a whole lot more either. Exception for gelato, of course, which is best enjoyed while strolling in the evening!

Regarding restaurants, John Henderson is an expat living in Rome whom I know slightly. I have been gone for over 6 years now so my old faves are unreliable aged. Here is John’s latest “top 5 list.” I’d lean toward the last one, Terrazza Borromini. https://johnhendersontravel.com/my-five-favorite-restaurants-in-rome-2/

Can you share when you are going and what his interests are?

Counts us among those who did not care for Rome the first time and had no interest going again. An itinerary placed us there a second time, we chose to stay in Trastevere and that for us was just what we needed, with the stress on “we”. Now we love it, but we know what we love and do those things. We’ve been to the major sites, so we are able to visit places that aren’t so crowded. We’ve now been 4 times and love it more each time. I absolutely agree that sites like Trevi fountain are much more magical at night.

Perhaps give some thought to trips your SO has most enjoyed, and aim for similar experiences. Rome can be overwhelming if you stick to the big tourist must-dos, so unless you know your SO loves crowds, take all the big sights off your list, and aim to wander the outskirts and small streets. We loved the Galleria Borgese museum, more so because walking through the green spaces nearby beforehand calmed us and prepared us to be awed. Coming from business in the UK, quiet spots may be even more important. Seek out some lovely, quiet churches and cemeteries to wander. An amazing hotel with a lovely breakfast and a great view will start and end your day well. Enjoy!

Thank you all so much!

@slate...
Omg, AFC syndrome. I can't even believe it happens with all the amazing churches, but that's dead on. I also found San Clemente to be one of the most interesting places we visited and my daughters rated it number 3 favorite site on our trip. (Sacro Bosco was first and a Mysteries & Legends Tour in Campo di Fiore was 2nd.)

I am planning to skip the Vatican altogether this time. I think it will use too much bandwidth and make seeing more art/churches less appealing. I won't forget seeing the Sistine Chapel, but I feel there are other churches just as beautiful and interesting. I'm thinking maybe the Galleria Borghese would do for this trip.

I've cooked for a living, and other than high end/extremely curated dining, I think complex flavors, amazing technique, and quality ingredients can be found as easily in Panifici as in Osterie. We don't drink much, so that plays in, but I agree that its an entirely different experience to sit down and one worth having. Food is only part of the experience after all. Still, the bottled water and the coperta alone usually cost about the same as a couple pieces of pizza al taglio or a pastry and cappuccino, which we are satisfied with most of the time.

@Laurel
I will check it out right away, thank you!

@Patty
We are going the first week of April and clearing out before Easter weekend.
He's an artisan craftsman who works with old houses restoring porches, box gutters, roofs... lots of copper and slate.
He likes food, but nothing fussy (think meat and potatoes with some flair) and we don't drink much.

Places with significant/interesting stories or ingenious design will appeal the most and he will appreciate amazing architecture more than paintings or statues. An example of a good area of overlap in our preferences and interests is portrait galleries (lots of great art and story minus endless landscapes and loads of sculpture).

He's not one to want to check off a list of must-sees. For instance, I don't think he cares much about seeing the outside of the Coliseum or having his photo taken there. I think he would enjoy a tour of it, but probably not enough to make it worth the crowds or the time. He does not like crowds. General crowds around, fine. Forced into tight space with lots of people waiting to see the same thing? Absolutely not.

I agree about the Trevi Fountain at night as well, although my daughter wanted to take photos without the crowds and post-pandemic travel was only warming up last March so we had the Spanish Steps and Trevi Fountain to ourselves at 7:30am and that was pretty magical as well.

@KC
Part of the issue is that we have been tied down for 20 years and have only made it as far as a few states away together in that time until I traveled last year. He stayed home, so I've got very little to go on there. I do know that he enjoys the integration of natural beauty with architectural elements.

He does not love crowds and I have already seen many of the main tourist attractions, so I don't feel pressure to do those at all. Thankfully, due to his line of work, we will be places like small towns, stone quarries, slate suppliers, etc... We will be through Dublin (He's excited about that) and London (not excited, but I am) briefly.

I hadn't read your response yet when I replied to Slate, but it's great affirmation that the Borghese is the way to go this time and I think you're right about retreating to interesting cemeteries in UK cities!

I am enjoying this thread. It reminds me of planning our first trip to Rome years ago. I recall my husband had preconceived ideas of Rome. He “had heard it was dirty, etc.” That all changed when we arrived. Everything came together. He absolutely loved the Architecture, art, churches, etc. We had a few days there before our tour of Tuscany and Umbria. We also ended our tour in Rome. We hired a guide for a walking tour of the Jewish Ghetto, and an evening walk (which included the Trevi Fountain). I agree, Rome is magical at night. As mentioned up thread, the Borghese was a highlight at our first visit. Long story short, we have returned to Rome multiple times.

Sleight - thanks for filing in the blanks. Knowing specifics about what you like and what matters to you really helps get more productive suggestions. We were fascinated by Domus Aurea which is a working archeological site basically across the street from the Colosseum. It’s not open every day and entrance is by ticket only with small groups taking the tour. Because it’s a working site, what you see will change from time to time, but we found it very intriguing. On our 4th visit we made it to Castel St. Angelo which we thought was underestimated, maybe because it wasn’t very crowded. The views from the roof were lovely, there’s enough history to educate without overwhelming and it was a nice surprise.

there is a nicer name for AFC that you can use to impress people

https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220110-stendhal-syndrome-the-travel-syndrome-that-causes-panic

Also keep in mind, Rick just absolutely loves churches and museums. I think his favorite trip would be nothing but those. You can decide for yourself when you've had enough.

Hopefully it is not too late for this advice, but I would suggest you not tell him how great Rome is and how much he will love this or that. Setting high expectations can be risky.

It sounds like you know what he likes and have though this through quite well, so you can focus the trip on what you think he will enjoy. I can't help you with that because I don't know him. I was just in Rome for the first time in November. As a city, I really disliked it, but I still had a wonderful time. I went to as many sites as I could possibly cram in, including many of the blockbuster sites, which truly are spectacular. It worked for me. My husband liked Rome even less than me. He spent his time running along the river, walking aimlessly in the quieter streets and napping. Different strokes for different folks. ; ) I hope it's fun for both of you.

@Janis
That's just the story I needed to hear! Thank you. :)

@Patty
You know, I thought he might like Domus Aurea but I've never been so I wasn't sure but your recommendation helps! We didn't have firm plans to visit Castel Sant'Angelo on the first trip, but it was in our grab bag of ideas if we had extra time and it was in their top 5 as well. They liked the self pacing and it was very quiet when we were there... and of course, the view. I didn't go inside with my son, but on our last night, he suggested that's where we should walk and asked for photos there.

If he's not tired of castles from roaming around Scotland, then I think he might like it as well.

@Phred.
Oh my gosh, that reminds me of the article about "Paris Syndrome"! I have to say, the Uffizi made me feel existentially ruffled myself! Logically, I was aware it held only a fraction of the amazing art in the world, but in person, it felt like more than my brain knew existed. The juxtaposition made life feel like a single second in which you see only a pixel of the picture.

@Carroll
That is good advice. He knows I love Rome due to my response to the first trip, but I may be going too far in the other direction. Since confirming the accommodations, I keep saying "Are you sure?! You know it's busy and loud and not super tidy or organized, right???" I think I will have to decide to enjoy the fact he cared enough to go and not be disappointed if he doesn't love it. What a waste that would be. And it wouldn't be particularly grateful either, lol.

One of my favourite restaurants is a small place called Renato e Luisa, off Largo Argentina. It's cozy, not pretentious but the food is consistently good. The space is very pretty but not fussy. There is no outdoor seating unfortunately. If you go, definitely order from the day's specials board. They are only open for dinner and you will need a reservation.

As far as learning to love Rome, I would definitely climb a few of the fabled seven hills for the view and some green space. Aventine is my favourite as it's a pretty residential neighbourhood with a gorgeous park at the top. Walking back down the hill sends you past some great cafes and shops (try Salumeria Volpetti or Emporio delle Spezie) in Testaccio. Testaccio is fun to walk around, and Eating Europe's Testaccio food tour will show you the neighbourhood and its fun market. Janiculum (Gianicolo) hill may have an even better view, though it's a little farther to get to from Rome's center. Take the opportunity to cruise Trastevere and Portuense neighbourhoods while you're over there.

Be sure to take time to meander from Piazza Navona to Castel Sant'Angelo by way of the alleys and small streets. Via dei Coronari is well known but just take random turns and enjoy the buildings, the cafes, and the people. It's not a long walk and you won't get horribly lost and there's always something interesting to catch your eye.

My last and very personal tip is to avoid the Trevi Fountain like the plague. It's always packed and is in a tight space to begin with. I am not the least bit claustrophobic, but when I have to take visiting friends past it, I just endure unhappily until I can get them to move on. Not everyone will agree with me but imo that's one sight best enjoyed on the internet. And I do love Rome. Just not those few blocks.

@sleight my husband and I weren't sure how we would feel about Rome and fell in love with it too on our trip in 2018, and will be back there in May of this year. This was our favorite restaurant - it's not over the top fancy but it was lovely, the service was fantastic and the food was wonderful. We will be going back, and if you decide to try it I hope you love it too. Happy Birthday in advance.

Colline Emiliane https://www.collineemiliane.com/

If anyone is still reading and would like to recommend an unintimidating spot for a spritz/aperitivo in Navona or Trastevere, please do.

We very rarely drink, but we are thinking it might be fun while celebrating.

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@Nelly
I had just seen an article about Renato e Luisa- thank you!

Funny, he came up with a short list of things he found interesting based on the common searches and Palatine Hill made the list.

I had planned to go to Testaccio and to the market, especially since I love Casa Manco there. This time of year, I'm hoping it won't be too busy, but I suppose there will be Easter shoppers.

We are staying near Navona and plan to walk by Castel Sant' Angelo for sure, but I will have to foolishly ignore your good advice on the Trevi Fountain, lol. I took my daughters because it was on their list just to get it out of the way and I was utterly charmed. We went again early in the morning and had it to ourselves. It's just one of those places I have to see while I'm there. My son was also charmed but had the expected reaction of "Get me out of here!" due to the crowds, which had grown in between March and September.

@PeggyZino
Thank you for the kind words and the lovely recommendation. It's going straight to the shortlist and I'll hopefully get to do a trip report when I return.

I was in Rome in late May 2022. I tried a street cafe between the River Tiber and Corso Vittorio Emanuele. Very close to the Castel Sant'Angelo. Quaint place, good food and service. I was satisfied enough to eat there again the next day. O'Pazzariello at Via Bancodi Santo Spirito 19. I had the linguini carbonara. Give them a try?

If you can stand to pay an exorbitant amount for drinks (aperitivo snacks included), then the rooftop bar of the Fori Imperiale hotel (Oro Bistrot Roma Ristorante) is a great place to go. The views are amazing, and we got some great impromptu photos there.