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How Not to Enjoy a Pizza Rustica Shop

Or, Brutta Figura in One Easy Step.

As I was ending my stay in Rome, I saw something that I realized after the fact was a case of simple ignorance.

I was walking around Rome the day after the Rome in 7 Days Tour ended, and I was a bit hungry but did not want to spend a lot. I noticed a pizza place with cheap prices per etto. I remembered seeing the word etto in the Italian phrase book, and looked up the section on pizza. I realized I was standing in front of a pizza rustica shop. OK, sounds good, and it is similar enough to pizza by the slice so I know what to do. I'll try it. My Italian is limited but between it and the owner's much less limited English, I got my due etti and Coca Cola and settled down at a table to enjoy. I then saw some other Americans come in and try to order a pizza pie. After some argument, they left complaining the 9 euros was not enough money to be able to hold a table (basically, they got thrown out). As the owner complained about these people to the patrons in general, I realized that the other Americans had wanted it brought out to them while they held the table for the time it would have taken the owner to prepare a pie, which was not a standard part of his stock.

In other words, they thought it was an American pizzeria, and became a bit nasty about it when they did not get the expected results. I'm lucky I read enough ahead of time to know what to look for in the phrase book. That could have been me otherwise. They say "kids don't try this at home" for dangerous stunts. Well, "adults don't try this abroad". By the way, brutta figura is an Italian expression our guide taught us. It means to leave a bad impression (litterally, an ugly figure). The opposite of bella figura.

Posted by
11852 posts

Great observation. We see so many people who come and expect this to be like America. Why did they come if they wanted Starbucks giant cups of coffee and things to "work perfectly?" Rick Steves' readers are among the most tolerant people on the planet because the read before coming here. Order the bottled water, learn to love espresso and capuccinos in a teacup. Enjoy some of the best food on earth an quit complaining that Italy doesn't work like America. Bravo mdubost!

Posted by
893 posts

What is rather upsetting about this story is that these folks will most likely tell others back home this story as proof of how horrible Rome is (and perhaps Italians) without realizing how their behavior was the cause of it.

Posted by
2456 posts

Talk about Brutta Figura, this thread gives me a chance to share quite a story from my recent trip to Italy in October. It happened in Siena, at a very popular gourmet deli a ways up the hill from Il Campo, some of you may know it. I had passed by a couple of times and each time people were being served trays of deli meats, cheeses, etc. while standing around little pedestals outside the deli, while others were getting bags of things to go. Everyone, evidently of varied nationalities, looked very happy and was extolling how great the foods were. So, I returned and decided to try a mixed tray as a standing supper.

I was inside at the counter in the small and crowded deli, waiting my turn. In front of me was a young man, American I think, who was ordering a very large amount and assortment of food, which the owner was cutting and preparing for him. I remember commenting to the fellow something like "Wow, you must be having a real banquet!" and he responded, "Well, sort of". How many people I asked, and he said there were six of them. "Wow" I said again, or at least thought again. As his food was almost ready, the owner asked about bread, and the fellow said to skip the bread. The owner said OK, but he always added a container of complementary fine olive oil, but that might not work with no bread. OK, you're right, said the fellow, better include some bread. So this is now all ready, a large and heavy bag or two of food, and the owner says that will come to 90 euros. OMG says the fellow, that's a lot, more than we expected. Well it's a lot of food, says the owner. Just a minute says the fellow, and he steps outside and then comes back in with a young lady. These were young adults, not kids. She says that 90 euros is too much, they only have 50 euros. Will he take 50 euros for the food? No, says the owner, the price is 90 euros, this deli is world-famous. I prepared what you said you wanted and cut it all just for you, just like I do for everyone. So the girl says they only have 50 euros, will he sell them the food for 50 euros, or they'll just walk away and he won't get any money at all. Doesn't someone in your group have a credit card, asked the owner, just what I was thinking myself. I also was thinking that 90 euros for six people is only a little over 20 US dollars a person, not so high for a great and very abundant dinner of fine deli cuts, plenty for lunch the next day too. No credit cards in the group, says the young lady, which I certainly had trouble believing. Another more aggressive young man comes into the deli to loudly represent the group with the take 50 euros or nothing offer, and by now the owner is getting really hot under the collar, with a deli full of people observing all this while waiting to order. Just imagine your typical Italian deli guy. He comes out from beyond the counter, cell phone in hand and calling the polizia, and actually grabbing this other more vocal young man. I thought this could really get violent. Eventually the group just left, no money or food changed hands, no police came at least while I was there, but the air was thick with tension. I shared with the owner that I saw the whole thing, and certainly thought he was right. I said in some cases it might be a good idea to just ask early on "about how much do you want to spend?" but I guess that's not the way it's done.

So then I got my food, had it brought out to my own little pedestal, and enjoyed the meal just like everyone before me, or at least almost everyone. And I came away with an Ugly American story, and now some people to share it with! Ah, memories of wonderful Siena! Not listed in any of the guide books.

Posted by
1501 posts

Couldn't agree more. Bruta Figura! I've taken people to Italy who acted like this and embarrassed me completely. Stay home and go to Olive Garden for God's Sake! No, there isn't always Air Conditioning, and no, there aren't always screens on the windows. Travel to learn something, and enjoy the differences!

Posted by
791 posts

Ironically, I have some Italian friends who vacation in the US and when they come back they always bitch to me about all the things they think are wrong with the US.