Will be arriving in Verona by train in late September. Looking for hotel recommendations and "not to be missed" local restaurants and sites...
We spent a Monday and Tuesday there in 2014. Unfortunately, most of the sites are closed on Monday and we went to Lake Garda on Tuesday. So I can't give you any information on the major sites. With that said, Verona is a wonderful place to wander, relax and enjoy "the sweetness of doing nothing" after the intensity of Florence. I loved the Roman ruins and marble sidewalks.
We stayed at the Giulietta y Romeo Hotel - a few steps away from the Roman Arena and an easy walk from the train station. The positive reviews on Trip Advisor are consistent with our experience. The breakfast was excellent; and they have a small bar area on the ground floor where you can have a glass of wine or spritzer with a small plateful of snacks before heading out in the evening.
We got caught in the rain in one of the more touristy squares and suffered through the worst and most expensive meal of our trip - just like RS says, avoid places with laminated multi-language menus with lots of pictures. Everywhere else we ate was fine - and the local wine is excellent. Our favorite restaurant was recommended by the hotel - La Taverna di Via Stella, around the corner from "Juliet's house". You know a restaurant isn't catering to American tourists when the daily special is polenta with horse sauce. The wine (Valpollicella?), pastas and grilled vegetables were delicious, as were the desserts. We sat next to the dessert table and had a hard time choosing.
I'll second the recommendation for Taverna di Via Stella. Best meal we had in Verona.
As for lodging, we really liked Residenza Carducci, just on the other side of the river from the historic center. Giovanna, the host, is wonderful and the breakfasts were among the best we've ever had in Italy. Here's an album of a few photos and a video I took of the suite we stayed in, with kitchen: Residenza Carducci
We stayed at the Hotel Milano which is listed in Rick's book as big impersonal, as opposed to a small mom-and-pop type place. It was fine and well located, just a block form Piazza Bra and the Roman Arena. We could easily walk all over from there. One restaurant we particularly enjoyed was Risotorante Greppia which is known for its home made pastas. It is tucked away up a tiny street, but worth the search. I had black truffle fettuccine, which was delicious. http://www.ristorantegreppia.it
Ristorante Greppia was also recommended to us by our hotel. Another excellent choice. We received excellent service from the staff, even though we were underdressed for the atmosphere and the other patrons.
Hotel Torcolo is about as central a location as one could want. It is possible to walk there from the train station, but with luggage a taxi is much better and not that expensive. I think a bus is also available. Google them to get the email address and contact them directly. Verona is small enough that you can walk everywhere. The old Roman Theater is really neat as is people watching at Piazza Erbe.
If you want to stay on Piazza Bra, I would recommend Torcolo. If you want to stay on Piazza Erbe, I would recommend Hotel Aurora (which is my favorite hotel). Maffei is a good restaurant on Piazza Erbe. Also Romeo and Juliet restaurant was good.
I love, love, love Verona. I like to people watch on Piazza Erbe and wander around from there.
I quite enjoyed my stay at Hotel Europa, which is only about a one minute walk from Piazza Bra and the Amphitheatre. There are lots of nice restaurants in the area, the room was comfortable and they served a good breakfast.
We also enjoyed the Hotel Romeo and Giullietta. It is a lovely hotel and very convenient to all the sights in Verona.