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Hilltown Single Night Visit: Itinerary Help Requested

I am leaving Rome on a Friday morning and due in at Florence by Saturday evening. I would like to fit in a hilltown visit en route. At first I was trying to avoid renting a car and all that that entails, but at this point I think I have accepted that I will probably have a better time if I rent a car for this portion of my trip. What do you think of this plan:

8am Train from Rome to Orvieto, rent car upon arrival and stash luggage, 4-5 hours in Orvieto
mid-afternoon drive to Civita, 2 hours there, leave around 4:30pm.
Friday night: dinner and overnight in Siena area (any lodging favorites to recommend?)
Saturday morning: tour Siena
Saturday afternoon: drive to...San Gimignano/Volterra? Or other smaller hilltown instead? End up in Florence.

Is this realistic? Too jam packed to enjoy? I realize it's not ideal, it's just the time I have. A simpler alternative could be to spend the night in Orvieto and simply take the train up to Florence on Saturday morning.

I keep hearing about the magic of having lunch in a small Tuscan hilltown. Any favorites?

Honestly I had considered taking the 2 hour train ride to Grosseto and touring through Maremma on the way to Siena. The pictures of Saturnia and the medieval towns in that area look amazing. Has anyone gone through that area?

I have never been to Italy before so I will love any of it. I am inclined towards the smaller hilltowns especially since the rest of my trip is Rome, Florence, Venice ie cities.

Thank you,
Beth

Posted by
11613 posts

I would stay in Orvieto (it's in Umbria, not Tuscany). Lots to do on an overnight stay, the TI in Piazza del Duomo can give you lots of advice.

Posted by
559 posts

Hi,

I also would just stay in Orvieto. I would skip Civita - where you would park your car is about a 25 minute walk to get to the hilltop, so I don't think its worth it to plan a two-hour visit there, since round trip to/from the car would take about an hour. I actually haven't been to Siena yet, so I'll let others comments about that. But there is lots to do so I would just stay in Orvieto for the night. I've only spent two mighty there so far, and I would to go back. :)

Enjoy your trip!!

Posted by
220 posts

I'd go out of my way to see Cività. It is the quintessential Back Door - back when there was such a thing.

In 1994, I got off the Venice-Rome overnight train (sadly gone) and hopped back on a train to Orvieto. I took the bus to Bagnoregio and was awestruck by the first view of Cività. I checked in to the de-listed Al/Il Boschetto and marched up the causeway. One of my photos of this amazing hilltop village is on my wall above where I am sitting. It never fails to get comments from guests.

The description of the town and the accommodations in the pink 1992 RS Italy book I took with me and duly annotated hooked me in and I never regretted spending 24 hours of my short time in the south on that side trip including stolen kisses with a nice young man who gave me a lift back down the causeway and wrote me letters (still have them) in Italian. Ah, to be young, single and foolish!

Maybe I should hush up so this back door doesn't get ruined like so many others - yes, Cinque Terre, I'm talking 'bout you!

Posted by
16894 posts

I would choose either Orvieto or Siena, not both. Siena is bigger with plenty to see in (almost) two days. If you choose Orvieto, you can get to Civita by local bus.

Posted by
8095 posts

I feel your pain as I hiked the Cinque Terre over 25 years ago before it was essentially ruined by becoming a ticket punch destination. IMHO Civita Bagneregio is at its best viewed from a distance; it is a glorious sight from the hill across. The town itself is now basically a condo site (reminds me of Montereggioni another place in which there is no 'there, there.' It is a pleasant walk and a beautiful view on approach, but not much of interest in the town itself.

I love Tuscany and have spent 3 times there twice a week and once for two weeks. One day to rush from one place to another would not be my choice. I can't see fitting all that in in the time you have. I'd be inclined to just go straight to Florence and then from there spend a day in Siena (easily done by bus) and perhaps join a day tour to Volterra and San Gimignano. It would be great if you had at least 3 nights between Rome and Florence to visit the towns and gardens along the way. There are wonderful sites just north of Rome as well as in southern Tuscany.

If you want to stay in Siena either the Palazzo Ravizza or the Athene, within the walls, have parking and both are an easy stroll to the Campo. We have stayed at each, and the Ravizza is marvelous (we stayed there 20 years ago before its more recent renovation. The Athene is more of a boring old modern hotel, but the views from upper floors onto the countryside are stunning and it is a lot easier on the budget. We stayed there during a respite weekend from a very hot time in Florence and it has spectacularly good AC. Siena is our favorite city in Italy; we fell into it on our first trip 30 years ago not knowing what to expect. We had rented an apartment about 10 km outside the city. We fell in love with it and particularly the Cathedral which is jaw dropping. If you go be sure to climb the Torre Mangia -- here is my last climb about 4 years ago: https://janettravels.wordpress.com/category/siena/

Posted by
454 posts

Civita is very unique, sitting high on a bluff above a vast canyon that has been eroded away, reachable only by a long, steep footbridge. The town is lovely, but there is not much to do there. You won't get a sense that you are experiencing the daily life and local culture of small village Italy. The permanent population of the town is six people. Wealthy Italians have bought up the properties for their weekend getaways. You'll see fellow tourists. You can stroll around and enjoy all the pretty flowers spilling out of pots lined up on balconies and stairways. It would merit a short visit if you had lots of time to explore between your stay in Rome and your stay in Florence. So would Volterra. It's wonderful. I've not been to Siena. It's a bigger city, so if you want a village, choose something else. If I were you I'd choose just Orvieto. It is beautiful and there is so much to do . . . .take a tour of the underground Etruscan caves, climb 240 steps down to the bottom of St. Patrick's well or about the same number of steps up to the top of the city's bell tower for a stunning 360 degree view of the whole town. From up there, the view of the Duomo towering over all the other rooftops is stunning. On Saturdays, there is a large open market in the Piazza del Popolo where all the local residents shop for produce, cheese, olives, flowers, clothing, etc. The Cathedral of Orvieto--its Duomo--is magnifient! It is famous for the Chapel of San Brizio, featuring Luca Signorelli's beautiful frescoes of the Day of Judgment and Life after Death. The main streets of Orvieto are bustling with activity but the back streets are quiet and peaceful. You'll find yourself on an empty cobblestone lane, at the end of which is a section of the city wall from which you'll hav sweeping views of the beautiful Umbrian countryside. Friendly residents, delicious local cuisine. You will love it!

Posted by
782 posts

I would spend your day in Orvieto,we stayed in the Duomo Hotel about 200 ft from the Piazza where the Duomo is.Also Orvieto is on the Highway to Florence.We visited Civita,it is a time warp with great views.
Mike

Posted by
12 posts

Thank you all so much. This is very helpful to get these perspectives. I am leaning towards going to Orvieto on Friday as a day trip and taking my time to explore Orvieto, maybe taking a late train back to Rome where I already have lodging anyways. Then a Saturday morning high speed train to Florence and arrange a day tour from there to San Gimignano and Volterra. I figure I may have time on Friday to get over to Bagnaregio, but I can play that by ear. It all gets easier to play by ear if I accept that I'll be sleeping in Rome that night and then I don't have to worry about where to stash my suitcase, rent a car, etc. It does look lovely and romantic to spend the night at Civiti di Bagnaregio, maybe that is something for when I have the proper time to really explore Umbria.

There all this advice in RS books to spend the night places so you can appreciate the sunset and early morning hours, but with limited time that also struggles against the advice to cut down on one night lodging transfers as they cut down on time and just general flow. So it's a balance, made easier by longer trips, or trying to see and do less in one trip I guess.

Beth

Posted by
5226 posts

Beth,

I am leaning towards going to Orvieto on Friday as a day trip and
taking my time to explore Orvieto, maybe taking a late train back to
Rome where I already have lodging anyways.

You may reconsider your plans & spend the night in Orvieto instead of backtracking to Rome.

If you do this, then you can take a train to Siena the following morning, then a bus to Florence that afternoon.

Have a wonderful trip!

Posted by
220 posts

Your trip will be wonderful no matter where you stay Friday night!

Have a great time!

Posted by
12 posts

Thank you! I think I will spend the night in Orvieto, take the train on Saturday to Florence. I am going to try the Hotel Virgilio in Orvieto.

Beth