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Hiking the Dolomites

I am wondering about hiking the Dolomites if we are staying in Bolzano. We are going to be a group of 8 adults in our 40's. Rick talks of a six hour hike and staying in a hut. I think that sounds awesome. BUT can a "hut" handle a group of 8? How hard is the hike? Is there any possible way we could hike up but take a bus or something down? (A knee issue may prohibit downward hiking - VERY athletic person with unfortunate miniscus issues that make uphill no problem at all but downhill is an issue. What is the scenery like? Food? Wine huts? Anything you can tell me. Oh and it would likely be the very end of September.

Posted by
17612 posts

I do not have the Italy book, but if I recall correctly he mentions Refugio Bolzano--- Schlernhaus in German. This is reached by a 3-Hour hike from Compatsch on Alpe di Siusi. The term "hut" is a misnomer; as you can see, itvis a large sturdy Lodge with room to sleep 120 people.

http://www.schlernhaus.it/schlernhaus/en/

You can make reservations and they are open into October.

The only way to reach it is by hiking. I have done it as a dayhike, not an overnight. Whether your party member with the torn meniscus can manage the descent is questionable. Click on the "Location and Ascent" button for a map and description of the various routes. We took the one marked "2" on the map, passing the Schwaiger farm. All routes have at least 680 meters of elevation gain and loss.

Posted by
3398 posts

I've done a lot of hut-to-hut hiking in the Dolomites and am going again at the beginning of September. Most of them can easily handle 8 people. With a group of that size I would definitely make reservations. You are arriving at the end of the season so definitely check the dates the hut you want to stay in plans to close for winter. Most are open until the beginning of October depending on the location. If you join the Club Alpino Italiano you can get preferred reservations and better prices.
Here is a list of huts around the Seiser Alm, one of the most beautiful mountain meadows in Europe - spectacular views across many of the massifs that are all throughout the area and wonderful hiking.
The hut that is my personal favorite is the Langkofel hutte/Rifugio Vicenza - it's very old with thick stone walls and thick comforters on the beds. Nice little restaurant with homemade food and nice hosts.
With most hiking in the alps you ride a gondola up to elevation and then hike around...it's so nice not to have to climb to much! Then you take a gondola down when you're ready...fantastic!

Posted by
712 posts

This fall we stayed in Castelrotto with the Rick Steves My Way Alpine Tour, and did a wonderful day hike in the Alpe di Siusi. To get there, we took a bus to the gondola, and then a ski lift. We ate lunch at a "hut" but it was not one with lodging. We did not go up or down anything very steep (but did have hiking poles to help). I don't know about other areas of the Dolomites, but in this area there was no slope particularly strenuous that we had to walk -- lifts and gondolas are fabulous.

Posted by
536 posts

Very helpful - thank you all. I will check out the recommended huts.

Posted by
54 posts

Why are you staying in Bolzano? If you enjoy being up in the mountains, consider staying in Ortisei, Selva, etc. Selva is our village of choice, and many hotels there will include a bus ticket for the week that allows free transportation--all the way to Bolzano--an easy way to go to Bolzano for a day trip. However, we go in the summer months when the temperatures are higher, and this makes this high altitude villages so delightful. There are many ski lifts that will take you higher up in the mountains for alpine hiking and then bring you back down. As for Castelrotto, we have never understood why Rick has pushed that town--which seemed very depressing to us.

Posted by
1832 posts

Most of them close at the end of Sept around the 27th or so; depending on your exact date they may or may not be open.
I imagine they may close a couple of days earlier than planned if a storm is expected.
Some of the lifts stop running as well around or before this time, some run further into the year which would affect your option down for the one person. No buses to a rifugio you would take a long hike to.

This is one of the most famous ones, as you can see the "huts" are in fact quite large in size.
http://www.dreizinnenhuette.com/

A party of 8 is not large for the huts if you are Ok with dorm style rooms along with many others.
these huts accommodate requests for parties much larger than 8, think bunk style rooms with other hikers, everyone using the same bathroom and shower, hot water likely not for long, type situation so I think not for everyone.
Most of them offer private rooms but often only have a couple of those and they book up fast, still have to share the same bathrooms. Each place may only have 2, 3 or 4 private rooms and then large shared dorm area which may hold 20 - 30 beds.
You might be able to get 2 or 3 private rooms for your group but would take some luck.
Right now is a tricky time to do anything as the huts are all closed and probably aren't working on next year's bookings now. You can send a few an email and they will hopefully get back to you in a couple of weeks.
I tried planning for a Sept trip this past year in Dec trying to find out availability of a private room in a few huts and really couldn't accomplish anything until mid Feb. had emails out to 3 of them and they all responded around that time.
All of them did have private rooms available for me when they got back to me (I was only asking for 1 - 3 person room)
They all had ample space in the dorm style rooms at that time so I am confident you could definitely book 8 of those anywhere unless your date happens to have a large photography group taking up the whole place or something similar.

Scenery is amazing and food is excellent in the Dolomites. Mix of typical Italian with regional influences. Wine and Beer are both very popular but don't think there are any Wine Huts.
They serve breakfast and dinner usually included in the rate and then will sell a ala carte style lunch as well.

Bolzano not best base for hiking or scenery, better to stay somewhere in the mountains.

Important to note: most of the huts the dorm areas you MUST bring your own linens, none are provided and can make your load heavier while hiking. The private rooms they are. They also only accept Cash for payment.

Posted by
15 posts

I just got email responses from 3 refugios/huts in the Alpe di Siusi area, and was able to reserve a double room, so I'd recommend trying for reservations now.