I have planned a three-day stay in Bolzano and would like to do some hiking. That might seem like a lot of time in Bolzano, but I am trying to slow down my itinerary and have two night stays in Ravenna, Padua, Verona. I am trying to hedge my bets on the weather as Rick says hiking season does not really kick in until mid-June and I will be there in early-mid May. Staying in Casterotto does not seem like a good option as there is not that much going on there and hiking is only one thing I want to do. Plus you never know about the weather. Rick's book outlines how to get to Alpe di Siusi but it seems a bit complicated; either two bus rides or two bus rides and a cable car. I was thinking I could instead take the train up to Bressanone/Brixen where there seem to be hikes from right in town (and the town looks quite nice as well). Can anyone offer perspective on whether this would be a good plan? Or should I really just deal with the convenience of getting to Alpe di Siusi because it's that awesome?
"early-mid May"
Want to put some actual dates on that? The first lift to open will be the Ortisei-Alpe di Siusi gondola on May 18.
When you are there, you are IN the Alps. Bolzano and Brixen are in the valley. The Seis-Alpe di Siusi lift near Castelrotto does no open until May 24.
Ortise has frequent buses from Bolzano. Use the Suedtirol trip planner:
https://www.sii.bz.it/en
Bressanone has a pretty historic district but, as Sam said, it's just as much in the valley as Bolzano is, and there is more to do in Bolzano. If you're incredibly unlucky with the weather and need more things to do in the valley, I thought the small town of Chiusa/Klausen was a pleasant target for a few hours.
I stayed in Bolzano for the same weather-related reason, although in October at the end of the season. I liked the town itself, and the bus was easy. It's a single bus ride to Siusi (maybe 45 minutes or so?) and then gondola thing up to the top (Seiser Alm). Get some hiking done, have lunch at a hut, and note the last gondola time so you can get back down and you'll be back in Bolzano for dinner. The gondolas are a little pricy but the views and the hikes are worth it. I also went to Ortisei and opted for the train/bus version. That worked fine as well, or would have except that I couldn't figure how to open the door on the train and had to go one stop past and then back track. I got on a bus a little later than planned, but I think there is a bus only option from Bolzano that might be safer if you too have issues with doors. From there, I had time to take the gondola up to the top (Seceda), walk around, linger over lunch, take another gondola down to some other town, bus back to Ortisei, and gondola up to the other side of Seiser Alm, and walk over to the gondola back down to Siusi for the bus to Bolzano. Except for the complication of doors, transportation wasn't difficult. If weather becomes an issue, I think Bolzano would be the place to be. Say hi to Otzi! There is also a gondola and train that goes up to a location above Bolzano that looked like some good hiking. I can't remember the name but the gondola starts walking distance form the train station.
Check out the Renon Plateau above Bolzano. Lots of good hikes and a nice scenic train ride.
We really enjoyed taking the train (~40min) through the apple orchards to Merano, a spa town. Once there we hiked up to the wasserwege hiking trails in the vineyards and orchards. The town of Merano was charming too.
Thanks for your replies. I am visiting too early for Alpe di Siusi hiking but I'm OK with that. Castelrotto might be worth a visit just to look up at the Dolomites. Bolzano has a castle within walking distance of town. Looks pretty interesting from the online photos, and I am a castle enthusiast. The archeological museum also looks great. This seems to be a region of Italy that tries hard to appeal to visitors. It barely has fifteen pages in the Eyewitness guide. Also less similar to other places I am visiting on this itinerary, a little piece of sort-of-Austria in Italy.
The culinary variety is nice, too.