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Help! Vernazza vs Monterosso??

Hi all!

I know this seems to be a popular topic already on here, but I had a couple very specific question regarding the Cinque Terre and figured I would make a new forum. I am planning to visit in early September ‘16 (specifically for 2 nights Sat Sept 3 and Sunday Sept 4), and will be coming in from Venice. I am trying to decide between staying in Vernazza or Monterosso. Vernazza is my DREAM area to stay in, but I am very worried about how crowded it will be! As we will be there the first weekend of September, is it better to give up the quaintness of Vernazza for Monterosso?

Really unsure of which is a better choice to stay in. Also, will 2 nights there be enough; should I reconsider my trip itinerary to extend my stay in CT to 3 nights? (from CT I’ll be going to Florence and then from there down to the Amalfi Coast).

Thanks so much for any and all comments!!

Posted by
16895 posts

Vernazza only has so many hotels, so it can only get so crowded overnight. Last October I had the pleasant experience of taking the first (9:45) boat from Monterosso to Vernazza and finding Vernazza empty! I think some trains were running late that morning. Cruise passengers arrived at noon, by which time you'll be off visiting the other towns.

Posted by
16769 posts

We chose our Monterosso location more for convenience than "quaintness"; all five villages have their own picturesque charm so it's a toss-up there.

Our Monterosso hotel provided a waterfront room, with a balcony, a short, level walk from the train station - nice with luggage - and for a reasonable price (for the CT) for that prime location. The town also had a larger selection of restaurants and other services than the other four. Because it's more spread out, it didn't feel as crowded as the others at certain times of the day.

There's no wrong answer, really, but I honestly didn't feel like we missed anything by not choosing one of the others instead. Other than early mornings and later evenings, we were out and about all day exploring the larger area so didn't spend a ton of time hanging around the room anyway.

We had three nights and could easily have done a fourth but I know others who felt one or two were enough for them.

Posted by
4637 posts

For me - Vernazza. If you want nightlife, more people around, beaches - then Monterosso.

Posted by
36 posts

Laura

You mentioned that Vernazza doesn't typically fill up with crowds until mid-day, and that by then a visitor would have moved on to another village. Do some villages get crowded at different times of the day, and is there a sequence that makes sense to minimize crowds? We will be staying two nights in Monterosso in July.

Posted by
2262 posts

kapri-more than likely, Vernazza will be extremely crowded. We were there in September two years ago, and I would probably choose Monterosso if we were to do it again. As Kathy says, it too is crowded but it's more spread out. Do yourself a favor wherever you stay and take a late night or very early morning walk around, it's a revelation.

Posted by
68 posts

We were in Vernazza in July and it was crowded, but not horribly so except when a cruise ship arrived and disgorged 100s of people who swarmed the main street, then left.
It's quite pleasant at night, even if busy during the day. You won't be able to actually get to know shop owners in Monterosso like you could Vernazza if you stay a few days and buy your coffee and brioche in the mornings and gelato later.
We had a nice conversation with a restaurant owner about the effects of tourism on his town. I asked him if people love or hate tourists or both. He said they love the ones who come and stay for a few days.
Vernazza is still a lovely town if you stop and say hello to people. I talked to a neat old shirtless guy in the main square who was walking with his massive shaggy dog (named Cerci). We pigeon-talked our way through the basics and had a lovely little chat. I don't think that would have happened in Monterosso.
Two nights is OK, three is better, depending on how long your overall trip is.

Posted by
32405 posts

kapri,

To begin with, I'd suggest changing the order to Venice > Florence > Cinque Terre > Amalfi Coast, as it's much more efficient and avoids backtracking. I'd also suggest making your visit to the C.T. three nights, as that will allow two full days of touring. You may find after you get there that you wish you had booked more time.

The decision on which town to stay is somewhat of a personal preference and each of us here have our favourites. My preference is most definitely Monterosso as it's the largest of the five and has the greatest number of hotels, restaurants and other tourist amenities, as well as the best beaches. Also, as it's larger and has both an "old town" and "new town", it tends to absorb the crowds better (although it can also be crowded in the afternoons). If you prefer a "regular" hotel with desk staff, elevators (in some cases) and a good breakfast, then Monterosso is a perfect choice. It can also be crowded in the afternoons as I found with this lot in September, which plugged the entrance to the station and were embroiled in a fierce argument. This crowd was German and Austrian bus tours, and not from the cruise ships.

Vernazza seems to be the most popular of the five towns, and seems to be promoted more by travel writers (I won't mention any names). The iconic view of the harbour from the trail seems to be the preferred image on many travel brochures and websites. People planning a visit especially for the first time may focus only on that image and think that's the only place to stay in the C.T. There are four other towns however, and each of them has a unique character.

I've been to Vernazza a number of times, but after a dreadful experience a couple of years ago, I've tended to avoid the place but I will try to get there on my next trip and explore the town more. I made the mistake of travelling from Monterosso to Vernazza one afternoon (about 16:00). When I first ventured onto the platform at the Monterosso station, there were only a few people waiting. That changed quickly however when three cruise ship groups arrived, each with about 60-70 people along with their umbrella-toting guides. The trip to Vernazza only took about seven minutes, but it was strictly SRO, elbow-to-elbow on a hot and stuffy train. When the train arrived in Vernazza, it took me 20 minutes or more to get just from the station platform down to the main street in town. I was stuck in a tunnel for part of that time. By that time I was very much regretting my decision to make that trip. Unfortunately, the boats were close to shutting down for the day, so that wasn't an option. When I finally got down to the street, that was also pretty much elbow-to-elbow and not a pleasant experience. I can't blame the other travellers from wanting to see Vernazza as that's I was also there for, but it was still a most unpleasant experience.

Over the years, I've been fine-tuning ways to minimize the crowding problems in the Cinque Terre, and have found some success with that. For example in the afternoons when the towns are most crowded, I'm either touring in another area OR sitting on the wonderfully comfortable balcony of my hotel far above the madding crowd, with a cool glass of Prosecco (or three). I also try to go for lunch at non-standard times (ie: 14:00) as the restaurants and Bars are usually less crowded at that time. The evenings can also be hectic in the restaurants, but not to the same degree as during the daytime. I find the evenings to be a "special time" in Monterosso and I always enjoy that time.

All of the five towns are trying to find ways to deal with the severe overcrowding that seems to be increasingly common, and hopefully they will find a solution. The C.T. is perhaps my favourite part of Italy, and these problems won't keep me from visiting there.

Good luck with your decision!

Posted by
16769 posts

Do yourself a favor wherever you stay and take a late night or very
early morning walk around, it's a revelation.

Amen, Dave. When I said we were only in our room early mornings and late evenings, I meant VERY early mornings: we are usually up and around before dawn.

Posted by
1246 posts

I personally prefer Vernazza, having stayed there 5 times. Monterosso is nice, but since I live in Fort Lauderdale, I find Monterosso more of a "touristy" destination (like home) with tacky souvenirs. Vernazza has it's share, but I now know where the hidden spots are.

Actually, whichever you choose, the towns are only 5 minutes apart by train, as well as the other 3 towns, which are worth visiting. All towns will be crowded during day time hours.

I would stay 3 nights, I usually stay 4 or 5.