Hello
I have travelled to most of Italy but never Puglia. It always went into too hard basket.
However this year I am determined to do it. I just need someone to put me on the right track re getting round and in which order.
I am fit, adventurous, "young lady" of 70 planning her 1st solo trip.
I will fly into Bari from Sardinia on approx. 31/8 and would like to slow travel through Puglia by public transport. Not planning the whole trip yet, just where to base myself to see as much as I can. I would like to move no more than 4 times and perhaps only 3 after Bari. ( luggage can be a problem on/off trains even though I only travel with about 12 kilos (10 weeks trip.) I would then do day trips to explore the area around. I could use a private transfer between some towns if that is an easier option.
I love to stay and explore historic centres, churches, museums Sit and watch the world go by over a wine or coffee and soak up the atmosphere rather than rush around and try to see everything in 1 day. Beach/pool is not a priority as I have both in Australia.
I would probably stay a few days in Bari when I arrive to explore the town and the surrounding areas.
The trulli houses of Alberobello fascinate me as do the caves or Matera (love to stay in one). Leccee. Ostuni, Otranto and Gallpolli all interest me. I love to be able to walk to restaurants where are restaurants and walk home safely. As a large part of my enjoyment is always food of the area and culture.
I just don't seem to be making sense of the trains etc. I am then continuing on to Positano either by train or plane which ever works best, so I presume I need to go back to Bari.
Is it best to go straight down to Lecce, Otranto and start there and work my way back, or do slow travel down the coast and then back to Matera, Bari.
Or any other suggestions. I am quite at sea where to start and need to start bookings.
Any help really appreciated
Posted by
Old Pueblo
144 posts
Hello Kay,
Although I had a rental car on my last trip to Puglia, it is certainly not necessary.
Here's a good overview of the rail system in the area: http://www.bueker.net/trainspotting/map.php?file=maps/italy/italy.gif
Here' a link to the other train line from Bari to Matera, etc. https://ferrovieappulolucane.it/en/lines/lines/
I'd suggest spending some time in Bari first, then take the train to Matera.
From there you could either return to Bari, or my suggestion would be to take the bus to Taranto (under-rated but so beautiful!) and from there you are back on the Rail system.
Do not miss Martina Franca...stay within the walls and savor the small town feel.
From there it is an easy bus to Alberobello.
From there you could either jump back to Bari to get on the main trainline to Lecce.
Lecce would make a great base for day trips to Otranto, Gallipoli, etc.
Getting to Positano is a long 6-7 hrs by bus or train, but maybe you could stopover in Foggia, to break things up.
You probably know about www.rome2rio.com It's pretty helpful for general planning.
I hope some of this helps, and I do envy you...I love Puglia!
Posted by
Washington DC
28425 posts
In 2015 I based in Lecce and took advantage of the van-trips organized by th tourist office. They ran on demand rather than being scheduled.
Posted by
Washington DC
28425 posts
I think you'll need to use buses as well as trains.
Posted by
Old Pueblo
144 posts
I was sligthly disappointed by Alberobello - one of the iconic places I wanted to see since my childhood -
Ha!
I had a similar experience in Alberobello....
Approaching this region, driving through the magnificent countryside, seeing ancient farmsteads, dry stone walls barely two feet away from the sides of the road in both lanes, among centuries old olive groves was such a joy; and then seeing my first Trulli farmhouses, Trulli barns, Trulli B&B's, Trulli gas stations...wow!
After that buildup, Alberobello seemed a bit like a mono-culture cornfield of Trulli, all in neat rows, with every 4th one being a souvenir shop or Gelato fix, or other somewhat tatty operation.
I'm not saying I didn't enjoy strolling about the town, and there are certainly some truly fascinating examples of what has been done with this simple, unique architectural technique, nor would I discourage any traveler fortunate enough to visit Puglia to miss this little gem.
I'm just agreeing with you that perhaps an hour or so is probably all that is required.
Posted by
11653 posts
We had an excellent experience in Alberobello. We focused on the UNESCO section. No gelato shops! This was in early to mid October. We were pleasantly surprised by the town.
Posted by
18 posts
Hi Kay, I'm glad you are planning a tour in Puglia. I spent several summers there, when I was a child, and it's an incredible place to visit...and above all people are so lovely! Considering your requirements and priorities, I think you listed the right places to visit considering also Matera in Basilicata which you can't miss. Most of the places are reachable with Ferrovie del Sud Est https://www.fseonline.it/. 1st day to visit Bari. 2nd day to visit Matera, just doing back and forth from Bari. Than, you move and the 3rd day you can visit both, Castellana Cave and Alberobello (staying here for the night). 4th day you visit Ostuni, Otranto, Gallipoli and then you move to Lecce and stay there for the night. 5th day and evening to visit the amazing Lecce... From Lecce you can move easily to Brindisi airport or back to Bari airport. Important tips: 1) download an English-Italian translator on your mobile, it will be helpful since English is not really a language known by a lot of people in the small cities. 2) keep with you some cash, if you want to walk around as a guest not as a tourist :-) you may want to access some small shop/bar/restaurant which might not have Credit cards 3) All mentioned places are safe ones...even though, I would avoid to go around late at night in Bari by myself 4) Puglia definetely works as weight gainer :-), the food is sooooo good. I love vegetables and I can guarantee you the taste there is different! Stay on diet for few weeks before you leave your country 5) Smile and dont be surprised if you dont want to leave anymore! Have a great vacation
Anja
Posted by
OP
Buderim, Qld, Australia
26 posts
Hello everyone
Thank u for your replies just need to check out your links and then perhaps ask more questions. Re luggage I just find it so hard to lift the luggage over the huge gap and steep stairs on some trains. Plus carrying up and down stairs, changing platforms at last minute as has happened in past in Pisa.
I realise it is a long trip to Naples, and then Positano. May yet fly to Naples to make things easier.
Posted by
Freedonia
16530 posts
I left Apuglia about ten days ago. I can now say it is one of my favorite areas in Italy.
Why?.....because it is not in the Rick Steves books. Because very few of the people I saw were Americans. It has not turned into an English speaking tourist mecca. Everywhere I heard Italian. Few signs in English. Few tacky tourist places. No signs in restaurants saying "we serve spaghetti." They were catering to Italians. Outside of the hotels, few people spoke English. Perhaps a few words but no more. (Matera and Alberobello excluded.) I visitised Lecce, Gallipoli, Otranto and some smaller towns.
Right after I went to Sorrento and it was such a let down. Everywhere I went shopowners and restauranters spoke perfect English. It felt tackier. It felt as if I was in a tourist trap. It was packed with people.
It will be very, very hot with your dates of travel. It will also be the tail end of the Italian holiday time and I was told Lecce and Apuglia becomes wall to wall people.
Posted by
Boise, ID, USA
2332 posts
We went to that area and all on public transportation. We found the Lonely Planet Puglia & Basilicata guidebook most helpful (the transport section in the back of the book). It looks like they now publish a "Southern Italy" book instead that covers more and therefore may have less pertinent info about the area you're looking at. You might want to try to look at that book at your local library. Or get a copy of the now out-of-print Puglia & Basilicata book. I do understand that one of the local train lines has been taken over by Trenitalia, so the old information may not apply in all instances. Still, it gave websites of the local trains and buses that might be hard to find otherwise.
Posted by
lexington, il
4105 posts
Hi Kay, we did the area you're looking at over two trips. You're in for a real treat, it's an amazing region. Here are the towns we utilized as bases, with some changes as we used a car.
BARI. To: (4 nights)
Bartletta, train 52min.
Trani, train 39min.
Polignano a Mare, train 32min. Bus 30min.
Monopoli, train 39 min.
Matera, train/bus 2H17min. Bus 1H05min.
MATERA to: (2-3 nights)
Alberobello, bus 2H40m.
ALBEROBELLO to:
Locorotondo, bus 12min.
LOCOROTONDO to: (2-3 nights)
Martina Franca, bus 13min.
MARTINA FRANCA, to: (3 nights)
Taranto, bus 45min.
Ostuni, Bus 50 min.
OSTUNI, to: (2 nights)
LECCE, To: (3-4 nights)
Otranto, train 59min. Bus 1H30min.
Gallipoli, train 1H33min. Bus 1H04min.
Brindisi, train 30 min.
BRINDISI, (1-2 nights)
Fly Brindisi (BDS)-Naples (NAP) Alitalia 3H40m.