Please sign in to post.

Help planning itinerary: Italian Lakes region and Provence

Hello, my family and I are in the very early stages of planning a two week trip to Europe this July (approx. 07/10-07/25). We're celebrating my husband's and my 25th anniversary, one child's HS graduation, and our other child's 21st birthday. We're trying to accommodate everyone's interests--hence, spending one week in Northern Italy and one in Provence. We plan to fly into Milan and most likely out of Nice. We could use some help maximizing our time across what are admittedly very broad geographic areas.

In Italy, we'd like to find a couple of "home bases" from which we can explore. My husband and I've been to Italy before and would prefer to avoid the major cities like Venice and Florence, given that we'll be there in July. We're most interested in the Lakes Region and small towns in and around Lombardy but haven't settled on specifics yet. We would love suggestions for where to base ourselves. We like beautiful scenery, great food, hiking, antiquities, museums . . . actually, there isn't much we don't like! But we do prefer a slower pace. We rented a car for a week in Tuscany many years ago and would be willing to do so again if that's the best way to see this area.

From Italy, we'll make our way to Provence. We may take a low cost flight from Bergamo to Marseille on RyanAir to save time (although their customer service record gives me pause!). If anyone has a better suggestion for making that trek from Northern Italy to Provence, please share. We'll probably stay in St. Remy de Provence and/or a town in the Luberon.

Thank you for any and all ideas and advice you can share!

Posted by
3315 posts

I have never been to Lago Maggiore or Garda but I have been to Como and highly recommend sleeping in Varenna. You can take a train from Milan’s Malpensa airport to the Milano Centrale station and transfer to get to the Varenna-Esino station (2h 15m).
Instead of renting a car on Lake Como take the ferry to get around. When you’re ready to go to Provence take a train back to Milano Central and hop on a direct train to Lyon (4h 30m). From Lyon you can easily get to Provence.

Posted by
7322 posts

Provence and Northern Italy are poorly connected.
Taking the train from Milan to Nice is OK with a quick change at the border, but anything further towards Provence proper is a hassle.
Going via Lyon would be time consuming as well.
The Ryanair flight is thus your best bet if you want to visit the area around Marseille and Avignon rather than that around Nice.

By the way, unless you plan to visit Nice, you might as well fly out of Marseille

Posted by
28379 posts

I was going to suggest flying home from Marseille, too; it's not a quick trip from Provence to Nice. (Are you aware that St-Remy doesn't have a train station?) Do check fares and schedules for your particular origin to be sure Marseille is viable.

The Italian lakes are lovely; I think Como is probably the prettiest and the best for folks who want to do a lot of walking. (I'm prepared to be corrected by those who've spent more time than I have in that part of Italy.) But since this is a July trip: Have you considered the Dolomites? There are lovely walks/hikes there of every possible degree of difficulty. At altitude in the mountains, heat is not likely to be an issue. If you're really unlucky, it might be hot for a few hours in the middle of the day; you won't be dealing with a stubborn, multi-day heat wave as might happen in the lowlands. Ortisei is a favorite mountain destination on this forum.

The Dolomites are a culturally interesting area with a very strong Austrian influence in terms of both language and food. The valley cities and towns (which, alas, are subject to heat waves) are quite attractive. They include Bolzano, Bressanone, Chiusa and Merano.

I'd be very tempted to do something like 4 or 5 nights in the Dolomites, 4 nights on Lake Como and whatever is left in Provence. Not that Provence isn't worth more time; it certainly is. But I'm looking at the dates you included in your original post. Maybe you could add a couple of additional nights?

Incidentally, in case you end up needing to fly out of Nice: The city has at least six art museums. It's worth researching them to see if one or two are especially appealing. I was disappointed in the Marseille's museums.

Edited to add: Bergamo isn't just an obscure airport RyanAir chooses to use for reasons of economy. It's a town with a totally charming historic district on top of a hill, reached by a funicular. It's definitely worth allowing some time to see Bergamo.

Posted by
386 posts

It's difficult to pick just one of the Italian lakes -- they're gorgeous.

You should definitely consider Lake Garda and it's many, many activities. Hiking, cycling, windsurfing, sailing, horseback riding, and so on. We stayed in Torbole and I couldn't stop taking pictures because it was so stunning. Since we were there in 2019, they've opened a lake-level cycling path. It goes for 140 km. It was supposed to be completed in 2021 but I think there have been delays, but definitely some of it is open

https://en.eurovelo.com/news/2021-05-14_cycle-on-water-along-the-hanging-cycle-path-of-lake-garda-next-to-eurovelo-7-sun-route

Posted by
2 posts

Thanks everyone for these wonderful suggestions.

Nickelini, Lago di Garda does sound wonderful, but so does Lago di Como--so hard to choose! I appreciate any other ideas for great towns to stay in, either on or near one of the lakes. I've heard wonderful things about Bergamo and it's on our short list.

Acraven, your recommendation to visit the Dolomites is an intriguing one. If we were to do that, do you have any advice about whether we should head there first, after flying into Milan, or make our way there after our time in the lakes region? (I do realize it would help if I studied a map! I'm not as familiar with that area as I am with other parts of Italy.)

As for our time in Provence, we plan to rent a car, so we won't be dependent on trains to explore the smaller villages. And if we can find a reasonable airfare, I agree it would be best to fly out of Marseille. So far, the better deals have been via Nice.

Thanks again, all. I will keep you posted as our itinerary begins to firm up.

Posted by
28379 posts

The Dolomites are well northeast of Milan-Malpensa, whereas Lake Como is a lot closer and to the north. It wouldn't be safe after an overnight flight to set out on a drive all the way to the Dolomites. I mention that because some people think it's important to have a car if you're spending several days in the Dolomites. I'm not convinced; there's bus service from Bolzano up to the Val Gardena villages, and the many mountain lifts are useful for reaching the starting points for hikes, so it seemed to me a car isn't essential unless you want to travel east or west to another valley. (The rail line runs north-south from Verona up to Austria.)

Rail service from Malpensa to Bolzano isn't necessarily massively slower than driving by the time you allow for the administrative procedures at a car-rental agency. Travel time by rail would depend on when you flight lands and you clear Immigration. For example, there's a 10:43 AM weekday departure that gets to Bolzano at 3:30 PM; you'd still have to get up to your village of choice by bus or other means. Many of the later trains take roughly 30 minutes longer.

Lake Como's a lot easier and faster from Malpensa. However, if you decide you would like to spend part of your time in the Dolomites, you're going to spend a certain amount of time getting there (and traveling back to the west) at some point. The conventional wisdom here (with which I agree) is that the arrival day is a really good time to get to one of the more distant points on your itinerary, because you may not be in great condition for traditional sightseeing, anyway.

Unfortunately, the transit time between the Dolomites and Varenna (to choose a popular possibility on Lake Como) is ugly by car and uglier by public transportation. I guess I should have checked that out before suggesting those particular mountains!

There are mountains farther west, north of Turin. I've heard Grand Paradiso National Park is lovely but am totally unfamiliar with that area. It gets a lot fewer American tourists than the Dolomites. Unfortunately, it appears there are no non-stop flights from Turin to either Marseille or (less attractive for your purposes) Nice.

I'm sorry I can't provide more encouraging news; perhaps there are options I'm not thinking of. I know we have posters who've made multiple trips to the Dolomites: I'm hoping one of them has a good idea for you.