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Help Me Plan My 2nd Trip to Italy!

Hi Everyone,
We have already done Rome, Florence, Siena, Cinque Terre, and Venice and looking to fill in the gaps of things we missed. Specifically we are interested in:

  • More Tuscany: We only saw Florence and Siena and would love to do an agriturismo or less touristy areas.
  • Lakes and Dolomites
  • Amalfi Coast

We are flying in from LAX and I'm not quite sure where to fly into and how to get from point A to B to C :-). And if this helps, we are trying to do this on a reasonable budget since we recently retired and trying to visit as much of the world as possible. Anyway, any advice from those who have tackled this before would be appreciated!!

Gary

Posted by
7454 posts

We just got home a week ago from 5 weeks in Italy, first trip since both being retired. One stay, which we’d like to do a second time, was near Castegneto Carducci, just inland from the Etruscan Coast, in southwestern Tuscany. We flew in and out of Rome this trip, but for a return, are thinking of flying into Pisa, then heading south along the coast. It’s Super Tuscan wine country, with some charming but less-visited hill towns, and sandy beach access, all nearby. Non-Italians seemed to be mostly Germans this fall, very few other Americans, and maybe it’ll be busier in the future, but certainly not like Florence, Siena, or Rome. We stayed in one of the 2 apartments above the owner’s country house. They have an enormous garden and a rural setting, although theirs is not technically called an agriturismo, but there are agriturismos in the area. They offer cooking classes, bike riding (big cyclist area), and we even helped them pick their olives for the year one day, and got extra-extra virgin oil as thanks.

Another week, we stayed at a remote agriturismo in southern Umbria, close to Spoleto, west of Orvieto.

IF you started on the west coast, north of Rome, you could head further south to the Amalfi coast (we stayed in Sorrento on a previous trip, for access to Amalfi, plus Pompeii, Herculaneum, Naples, Capri), then up north for Lake Country. Maybe fly home from Venice, if not Milan?

Posted by
11218 posts

The Amalfi Coast is the outlier. But it depends how much time you are planning for Italy. We didn’t go south of Rome until our 8th trip to Italy. We always have rented a car except when in the large cities.
Stay in a small town in Chianti for a week between Siena and Florence such as Castellina, Radda, Panzano or in the area with Pienza and Montalcino. Also Cortona snd surrounding area. Rent a car and enjoy exploring the various Tuscan villages.
We love the lakes, especially Como. You can’t go wrong with any of the major three lakes- Maggiore, Como, Garda.
The Dolomites are spectacular! We loved Ortisei where we could take a gondola or funicular up to the mountain valleys. Family owned and run Hotel Grones there is one of our favorite hotels anywhere.
I would give each of the above areas a week. And then return to Rome as there always is more to see there.
When you go to Southern Italy, Puglia and Sicily were our favorites.

Posted by
2979 posts

It would be ideal to fly in and out of Milan and Naples. Make sure you check fares in both directions to see which is cheapest. Of course, there are no nonstop flights so you’ll have to connect once in both directions. Check out ITA Airways.
In the Lakes district I recommend sleeping in Varenna on Lake Como. ITA has a flight from LAX to Rome to Milan Linate airport. The cheapest way to get to the Milano Centrale train station is to take a direct bus from Linate to Milano Centrale (30-minutes) for five euros. Or you can take a taxi that costs 40 euros (15-minutes).
From Milano Centrale you can take a direct train to Varenna (1h 15m) and sleep there. You also want to take a ferry to Bellagio for the day (15-minutes).
When leaving Varenna hop on a train to the Verona Porta Nuova station that requires a change along the way and rent a car at the train station and drive to Castelrotto/Kastelruth (30-minutes) and make Castelrotto your home while you explore the Dolomites.
From Castelrotto drive to Tuscany but I have never stayed at an agriturismo so I can’t help you here. As far as what places to see in Tuscany depends on where you're staying and what your host/hostess suggests. You can drop off your car perhaps in Chiusi and jump on a direct train to Naples and then a ferry to Sorrento, etc.
I'm not going to suggest driving to the Amalfi Coast because there are strict driving rules in Italy and you need to be savvy on ZTL zones; although it would be nice to have one, especially when driving along the coast.

Posted by
6215 posts

Gary-
Congratulations on your retirement- let the traveling commence!
Do you have an idea of how many nights you want to spend on this trip and what time of year?

I will say that if your time is less than 3 weeks you should probably pick one area- Lakes/Dolomites OR Amalfi along with more Tuscany. Each area needs 5-7 days.

Often your best prices for flights will be RT Rome- and that can work well for a Tuscany/Amalfi based trip.

Are you OK renting a car?
What are your interests?

Posted by
103 posts

I like the comments above, if you can achieve 2 out of 3 of your stated geo-area objectives, great! I remember being in Sorrento and Capri twenty years ago and it is/was Spectacular. Once on Capri we trekked out to Villa Jovis views to die for and many did. AnaCapri is not to be missed there is a small chapel with a very important floor. We slept in Sorrento nice town with good restaurants and limoncello. But on the northern lakes you can’t go wrong either with Varenna or Bellagio which we did two years ago. We also slept one night each in Lecco and Bellano and enjoyed both. Lecco seemed to have a higher Italian to tourist ratio. Just north of Bellano which is two train stops past Varenna, is a little bnb style hotel called Villa Marina very reasonable only six nice rooms directly on the lake just be careful walking the road down to town. Also I know a lot of people on this board, not me, have gone from Varenna on train up to Switzerland and back (or not). You may want to consider that. Two other towns worth getting to if they fit your larger Iten are Lucca and Orvieto. It’s all good. The time of year you are going may/will help you decide to steer north or south.

Posted by
11240 posts

How much time are you allocating to this trip?

Whether going to the places on your wish list is feasible, is dependent on how much time is available

Posted by
15602 posts

From a budgetary concern, off-season is significantly cheaper for lodging and has the benefit of many fewer tourists, but if you want to include the Dolomites, you are quite limited in your timing - too early or too late and the trails won't be fit for hiking and some of the ski lifts won't be running. So those two considerations seem to be contradictory. By looking at the dates of the 2 RS tours that include the Dolomites - Alpine and Best of Italy 17 Days - the time for them would be early May to late September which is not off-season. That's also the optimal time to visit the Amalfi Coast because that's the window the ferries operate in. OTOH the AC is great even when there are no ferries, it's just not quite as easy to get around. As Suki pointed out, the AC is somewhat of an outlier, but I'd consider the Dolomites to be more so. Getting to the Dolomites by public transport is a schlep unless you're driving. On the AC if you head to Salerno instead of Sorrento, there are fast trains from Florence/Rome/Naples. Salerno is logistically a better base for the AC.

Posted by
18 posts

Thank you everyone for your responses. A follow up question - assuming our trip looks like the Lakes (perhaps skip Dolomites due to weather issues), then to Tuscany, then to Amalfi, what is the best way to get to each location? We don't mind driving though I have heard to not drive in Amalfi. We are looking to spend about 2 weeks total and trying to keep the budget in mind, perhaps keeping lodging to less than $200 a night.

Posted by
3607 posts

I have a recommendation for you. Some years ago, we stayed at a marvelous Tuscan agriturismo, Locanda Ilune. It’s close to Pitigliano, Saturnia, Orvieto, and a number of Etruscan sites. The owners are super friendly and helpful. The place itself is picturesque and charming.
They serve a delicious breakfast, with some of the ingredients produced right there on the property. Dinner is offered some nights; and the one time we partook of it, we were more than pleased.
When we stayed there, our room was €110/night. I’m sure the prices have risen since then, but I suspect they are still well within your budget.
Though it is often not recommended, after arriving at FCO, we picked up a car and drove directly to Ilune. The journey took less than 3 hours

Posted by
6215 posts

That's still a lot for 2 weeks but doable
Fly into Milan- to Lakes- choose between Maggiore or Como
Then back to Milan to catch train to Florence.
Pick up car in Florence and head to your Tuscany location.
Drop car in Orvieto (Hertz only) or Chiusi then train to Sorrento (via Naples) or Salerno.

Decide where you want to stay in Amalfi area. Sorrento is super lovely but not ON the coast, it's a the main transportation hub and makes for a good base, beautiful views, great restaurants, fun shopping, very walkable.

You might want 2 bases
Sorrento to visit Pompeii, Capri, Naples then another along the coast - Amalfi is our preference (also a transportation hub for the coast). Visit Positano, Ravello from here.
Salerno is quite nice as well and Paestum is an easy day trip from there- well worth it!
Ferries run April thru October. weather permitting

Fly home from Naples if you can or back to Rome- you'll need to be in your departure city the night before your flight.

Be sure to read all you can about driving in Italy. Tuscany countryside is quite easy but you need to be aware of ZTLs, parking issues, speed cameras, alcohol limits, etc.
We use AutoEurope for all of our rentals in Europe- do a search here for lots of mentions/reviews.
All drivers will need an IDP that you get at your local AAA

Some info about driving in Italy here, a bit old but still useful
http://driventoit.blogspot.com/2015/01/driving-in-italy-including-dreaded-ztls.html

Good info here on Sorrento/Amalfi area:
https://www.sorrentoinsider.com

Posted by
18 posts

Oh perfect, really great advice. Keep it coming, I'm going to do a rough outline of the trip and will post in a bit. Thank you everyone.

Posted by
16 posts

I hope you don't mind if I piggy back on your thread. Is there a site to look for agri-tourismo's?