Just wanted to let you know that if you plan on taking the train from Milan to Varenna, make sure you buy your return ticket in Milan as the ticket kiosk at the train station in Varenna is broken.
LOL, the ticket machine in Varenna has been non-functional for years. I've no idea why that is as it's a popular entry post for people catching the ferries. We bought round-trip tickets in Bergamo (did Bellagio as a day trip from there) but other travelers report that they've been able to purchase them at a travel agency in Varenna when it's open; I believe it's closed on Sundays.
There is also a tobacco shop on the town square, near the Royal Victoria Hotel that sells tickets for the region also, so we could buy tickets to Milan, but not to Verona. We took care of that leg once we got to the station in Milan.
I was told that we could buy tickets onboard the train.
Regarding Barbara's statement:
I was told that we could buy tickets onboard the train.
I definitely wouldn't count on doing this.
If the conductor comes around to check tickets, and you don't have one, you may get a hefty fine!
I wouldn't count on it either. I'd pre-purchase tickets at a different station or at the travel agency in Varenna, if it's open.
I just realized that this is an old thread & it's been resurrected along with many others here on the Italy forum.
For future reference, as mentioned above you can buy train tickets at the helpful Tivano Tours office, which is just below the station. I normally buy my return ticket before leaving Milan and then just validate before boarding the train.
The Tivano travel agency has posted on their door (if I remember correctly) that tickets can be bought onboard the train during the hours that their office is closed. In such cases, try to find the conductor upon boarding; he might even be hanging out the door at the stop. Barilott on the square has also sold the short-distance tickets for several years, but I don't know whether that was affected by the recent requirement for regional tickets to be issued for specific travel dates.
If you buy Regionali tickets ahead of time, you will need to specify on which day you intend to use it.
The ticket can be used only on that date specified at the time of purchase (by 23:59 of the travel day specified in the ticket). The travel day can be changed by 23:59 of the day before.
The day of travel, you still need to validate the ticket before boarding. The ticket will then be valid for traveling for the 4 hours from the time of validation.
http://www.trenitalia.com/tcom/Treni-Regionali/Nuovo-biglietto-regionale