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Last minute trip to northern Italy /itinerary help!!!

My mother & I will be traveling to northern Italy in a couple of weeks (13 nights) and I had considered visiting Varenna, Lake Como, but realized that this was not the best choice. My mom is elderly and even though she is healthy & walks daily for exercise, stairs are challenging for her now.

So... thanks to many of you... I've also realized that my itinerary was very busy with day trips & such.

My original itinerary included Varenna in Lake Como, Verona with day trips to Mantova & Padova then Bologna with day trips to Ravenna, Ferrara, etc, etc...

So now, I have decided to travel to Verona (from Milan) & take day trip to Lake Garda & perhaps stay there a few days to really enjoy the beautiful scenery & relax instead of moving from one place to another, which is very exhausting!

Thanks Roberto for your help with this trip! You should be a tour guide!

Larry was right when he posted this about you!

Roberto is one of our most well-informed, savvy, witty and helpful
participants, raised in Florence, now living in Northern California,
but traveling back to Italy regularly. He seems to have more detailed
information and guidance about most places in Italy than any guide
book.

Now I need some accommodation recommendations in Malcesine, Limone or Riva , Lake Garda.

or any other place around this amazing lake!

We will be traveling by public transportation (buses/trains/ ferry)

Thanks again!!! Macy :)

Posted by
649 posts

Macy
Try Hotel Olivedo. It is right on the water and the ferry docks in front of the hotel. Ask Laura about the 2 or 3 units she has adjacent to the hotel. That is where we stayed. It was lovely (the bed was huge but the mattress was a bit hard). Very little stairs. info@ olivedo.it check out web www.olivedo.it. This is an old hotel but the dinners are great.

Posted by
649 posts

Macy
Forgot to mention to ask Laura for the ground unit as there was one above us. I think ours was unit 5.

Posted by
7737 posts

Varenna is indeed almost all on a slope except for the water front. In some places it is very steep. Typical example: Side street in Varenna. Use Google Maps Streetview to look around for yourself.

You should consider staying in the town of Como. Use Google Maps again to take a look. Use booking.com or venere.com and filter by your dates so that it shows you only the places that have vacancies.

Good luck.

Posted by
15041 posts

Since you mentioned your plan to visit Verona in a PM I would skip lake Como and visit lake Garda instead. Sirmione, Riva and many other towns are not steep at all. Besides for the intended itinerary you have described in the PM you sent me Varenna represents a detour. Visit Garda instead.

Posted by
11613 posts

Second Michael's suggestion. Como is flat, mostly, and great for transportation to the smaller towns. I was in Varenna a couple of years ago, as luck would have it I had a foot injury at the time and couldn't climb stairs, and looked with longing at the staircases that serve as streets. I had a nice walk along the harbor, had lunch, took the ferry to Bellagio, which was easier to walk in.

Posted by
3150 posts

I'd also recommend staying in Como. It would be easily navigable for your mother. Short walk to the ferries that can carry you for a day trip to Varenna, Bellagio or anywhere else on the lake. If you stay in Como, take the funicular up to Brunate for a spectacular view of Lake Como and the Alps. Two restaurants I'd recommend are il Pomodorino on Via Cinque Giorante - moderately expensive, wonderful food, excellent service - and il Pinzimonio on via Bonanomi - inexpensive, good food.

Posted by
7737 posts

Once again, Roberto offers an excellent suggestion. If it's not too late, I would follow his suggestion and go to Lake Garda instead. Sirmione is very picturesque and you can take a little golf cart kind of train out to the very tip of the peninsula to see some ancient Roman ruins with a stunning backdrop.

Google Maps Streetview will show you what I'm talking about.

Posted by
2455 posts

Right, although touring the major castle at the entry to Sirmione involves a considerable amount of stairs. I can't remember if there is enough to see there on the ground level to justify paying the admission. Ask about that. But the rest of Sirmione is interesting and lovely in places. I myself took a ferry from Sirmione to Bardolino, which is also a flat town. The Zeni Winery and wine museum is up something of an inclined road, but there is a public bus that goes right to it.

Posted by
5187 posts

Hello again!

Thank you Shelly, Michael, Roberto, Zoe, Philip, Michael & Larry!!!

So... I have not reserved any hotels in Varenna... and Lake Garda is looking more promising now (and more reasonalby priced, I'd imagine) Thanks for all of your recommendations!

Google map is amazing!!!

My mom & I would like to at least spend one day in Varenna/ Bellagio, so we'll just take a day trip at end of trip once we're back in Milan.

I need a bit more info/ideas from Larry & Roberto.

Larry, you mentioned that you stayed in Verona & took day trip to Lake Garda & Bardolino. You also mentioned in a previous post that Roberto helped you plan your itinerary around Lake Garda.

So... Roberto & Larry, would you recommend staying in Sirmione or Riva for 1-2 nights? Where?
Or just do a long day trip from Verona? Do you have a link to bus schedules from Verona to Lake Garda?

We also want to visit Mantova or Padova while in Verona. Which city do you recommend?

Ravenna & Ferrara are also on my current itinerary & would like to stay at a B& B (Ferrara) recommended by Frommer's guidebook.

I also would appreciate recommendations for inexpensive hotels (aside from RS recs) near Stazione Centrale in Milano where we will spend last 2 nights before flying home from Malpensa airport.
THANKS AGAIN FROM A 'NEWBIE' TRAVELER!!!! Macy :)

Posted by
7737 posts

Macy, FWIW, your itinerary is sounding exhausting, at least from what I'm able to reverse engineer from some of your comments. It sounds as if you're doing lots of 1 or 2 night stops and then packing in a ton of daytrips on top of that. One of the big joys of Italy is slowing down and enjoying and experiencing where you are, rather than trying to add yet another destination to a checklist.

Posted by
11613 posts

Consider Hotel Corte Estense in Ferrara, very short eslk to the museum, duomo and castello. Lovely courtyard to relax in after sightseeing; breakfast is included. Elevator.

Milano: Hotel Berna or Hotel Garda, a couple of short blocks from the train station and metro. Elevator.

Posted by
15041 posts

To me the most beautiful part of lake Garda is the north lake. However Sirmione in the south is a must see village. My favorite town in the north lake is Limone (western shore), however since you will be staying in Verona, the Veneto side of the lake (Eastern Shore) is more easily accessible from Verona (which is on the same side of the lake), therefore the best towns that are easily accessible from Verona are Malcesine and Riva (Torri, Garda and Bardolino too). You will love both of them and from Malcesine you can take a boat across to Limone, which is also a gem.

To go up the lake from Verona (Malcesine, Riva or whatever on the eastern shore) you would take a bus with ATV, Verona City Bus Agency. I'm having computer issues now and can't access their website but do a search on extra-urban buses here:
www.atv.verona.it/

Before returning home. If you want to stay in Milan, you should look for a hotel near the Cadorna station (Castello Sforzesco area), it's closer to the historical center and trains from Cadorna to the airport are faster than from the central station.

If you havent had enough of a lake and would rather stay at a lake neaar the airport instead of Milan, go to Stresa or Arona on Lake Maggiore for 2 nights, you won't regret it. From there you can get a private transfer to the airport (20-30 min) or take a train from either Stresa or Arona to Gallarate. At Gallarate get off the train and take a taxi or bus to the airport (5 min). Stresa to Gallarate via train is 35 min. Arona to Gallarate is 20 min.

Posted by
10344 posts

The Varenna hotel was correct in saying, Varenna is all stairs.

Posted by
5187 posts

Thanks again, Michael, Zoe, Roberto & Kent!!!

Michael, I totally agree with you!
I am already exhausted trying to plan this last minute trip & I've been trying to figure out
the best itinerary so it wouldn't be so exhausting!!!

Zoe, thanks! Is it worth spending a day touring Milan? After reading this travel forum, I assume that it's more of a stop over destination.

I thought 2 weeks (13 nights) would be a nice vacation, but now I wish I had a few more days...
So...I just need to delete some of the destinations I'd considered.

Roberto, thanks for all the info regarding the best places (Eastern shore of lake) to visit from Verona.

Perhaps, I should skip Ferrara & Ravenna & go to the western shore of Lake Garda & stay in Limone.

Do you have accommodation recommendations for this part of the lake?
"

Before returning home. If you want to stay in Milan, you should look
for a hotel near the Cadorna station (Castello Sforzesco area), it's
closer to the historical center and trains from Cadorna to the airport
are faster than from the central station.

Roberto, Thanks for this important hint!!!

Another question: If we choose to visit Lago Maggiore, what do you mean by a private transfer to the airport?

You mean a taxi? This is expensive isn't it?

Kent, thanks! After visiting Varenna via 'Google maps', I think I will save it for another time when I travel with my hubby !

THANKS AGAIN!!!! Macy :)

Posted by
15041 posts

Private transfer is a private car (as in a limo service). By car it takes about 40 minutes (I just drove it this past summer). The cost is probably in the €90-100 range. Just Google: "Stresa Malpensa private airport transfer" and several companies will pop up. This is one if you are interested in requesting a quote:
http://www.stresatravel.com/Tomassucci_Web/taxi_and_minibus_transfers.htm#.VA_daGK9KSM

Besides the private car and the train option Stresa-Gallarate given in my previous post (Gallarate is the largest town next to the Milan Malpensa airport), Stresa has a shuttle bus service to the airport. Not sure if the schedule works for you:
http://www.safduemila.com/alibus-2014-malpensa.lagomaggiore.html
http://stresasights.blogspot.com/2011/03/transportation-alibus-shuttle-from.html

The shuttle bus takes 55 min from Stresa. But it's probably a comfortable bus ride with no need to get off at Gallarate and take a taxi. The cost is apparently just €12.

Posted by
11613 posts

I love Milano and always spend a few days there, but one night would be enough to see the highlights. Tickets for Leonardo's Last Supper must be bought in advance, or as part of a tour. The Duomo is beautiful, there is an elevator to the roof. Castello Sforzesco has a good museum, there is the Pinacoteca Brera as well. The Galleria next to the Duomo and the La Scala theatre are also good choices if you have time.

Posted by
5187 posts

***Thanks again Zoe & Roberto!*

I need some help with the following:

  1. Ideas as to where to stay & where to eat while visiting Lake Garda ( Riva, Limone, etc...)

  2. Is there a bus to Lake Garda directly from Malpensa airport, or do I need to go to Milano central station first?

  3. Would you visit Mantova or Padova as a day trip from Verona?

  4. Would you visit Ravenna or Ferrara?

***Any & all suggestions are truly appreciated, thanks! Macy :)

Posted by
15041 posts
  1. For restaurants I always ask the locals. I don't remember the names now. Any town will work, but if you come by bus from Verona, towns on the eastern shore are easier to reach (Malcesine for example). Riva is the last stop on the Atv bus.
  2. No. from Malpensa you take a train to Milano Centrale. Then from Milano Centrale you take a train to Verona (or Lake Garda). The main train stations at the lake are Desenzano-Sirmione and Peschiera. Coming from Milano they both come before Verona along the Milano-Verona-Venice line.
  3. Either Padua or Mantova are nice and it takes about the same time, about 45 min. But Padua has more famous things to visit (Scrovegni chapel and St. Anthony's basilica)
  4. Between Ravenna and Ferrara it's a toss. However Ferrara is closer. Also Vicenza might be interesting to visit and much closer to Verona. I presume you have been to Venice in the past, therefore you are not interested in it. Venice is just one hour from Verona.
Posted by
5187 posts

Thanks Roberto!!
I always ask the locals too & find the best spots to eat.

Do you have recommendations for accommodations in Limone or Riva? *****In Verona?***

Someone recommended Hotel Torcolo in Verona, have you stayed there?

I plan to stay in one of the cities around the lake( 3-4 nights),
then go to Verona (3-4 nights) & take a day trip to Mantova or Padova or Viscenza.

.
Then I plan to take train to Ravenna (3 nights) & take day trip to Ferrara or visa-versa, then take train back to Milan & spend 2 nights there before going back home.

I have not been to Venice but my mom has and she doesn't want to go there during this trip.

Does this itinerary sound more reasonable? I think so :)

Thanks again to everyone! You ideas, opinions & suggestions are truly appreciated.

Posted by
15041 posts

I understand that your mother isn't interested in going to Venice, but if I came all the way from North America and had never been to Venice before and I were as close as Padua (20 minutes), sorry, but my mother would have to accommodate my desires too. I would drag her to Venice with me whether she likes it or not.

All the cities you want to visit are pretty and quaint, but none compare to Venice. Verona can be visited in a day and all others in much less. Therefore you have plenty of time to devote at least 2 nights in la Serenissima. Just cut a couple of nights elsewhere. And you can visit Padua and Ferrara from Venice much more easily than from Verona. You are planning 10 nights in Garda, Verona and Ferrara. I'm sure you can cut of those out and carve 2 or 3 for Venice. I wouldn't stay longer than one night in Milan either.

Posted by
5187 posts

Roberto,

You are so right! I will take my mom to Venice!

Do you want to be our private tour guide?

Please help me with our itinerary. Literally... write it down for me. I have changed our plans so many times that I am exhausted!
Here are the details:

  1. flying in & out of Milan (Malpensa) in 2 weeks.
  2. 13 nights to explore northern Italy.
  3. want to visit, Lake Como, Lake Maggiore or Lake Garda plus Verona, Venice, Padova &/or Vicenza &/or Ravenna &/or Ferrara
  4. Traveling on a moderate budget.
  5. cities must be fairly flat because my mom has difficulty with too many stairs.
  6. have explored Rome, Florence, Pisa & Cinque Terre in past.
  7. will need some off days just to stroll in the city or sit at a piazza by a fountain, or by the lake eating gelato.
  8. will be using public transportation.
  9. Need hotel or b&b recommendations. No reservations have been made, yikes!
  10. Help!

Confession: Last 2 times we traveled to Europe (Spain, France, Greece & Italy). During off-season (Sept/Oct),
we did not have hotel reservations... I know it sounds crazy!.... but now, I feel it's a good idea because it will be a less stressful vacation.

I don't speak Italian but speak a little French & I'm fluent in Spanish, so I can get by in Italy fairly well.

Thank you in advance !!!

Macy :)

Posted by
2455 posts

Macy, I tend to agree with Roberto about Venice, but you know your mama and we don't. Another alternative would be to visit Padua together one morning, then put mama back on the train to Verona while you go on to Venice for the afternoon and evening, returning to Verona late evening or even sometime the next day. The one thing I would advise against is going to Venice only for the middle of the day, since that's when all the other day trippers and cruise shippers are there, meaning the most crowded and also hottest time. Venice is most magical early morning and in the evening. In Verona, given that you're traveling soon, you are now probably better off going to booking.com or another such site to see what hotels or inns have rooms available, rather than pursuing individual recommendations that are very likely full by now, although you can check those out too, likely on booking.com also. Once you know a place has a room, it might then be a good idea to communicate directly with the inn, although I have always been well-served by booking.com. Verona is very nice, I think the best blend of ancient history, open space, and modern lifestyle that I have found in all of Italy. Great for strolling around town day and evening. Many sites, although no blockbusters, although some might say the Arena is one. The Verona Pass (?) is a good deal, including most major sites. Just remember, Romeo and Juliet were fictional characters, so Juliet's home and balcony were never really her home and balcony, because she never existed! In Padua, Giotto's Scrovegni Chapel is the #1 site, although advance reservations are needed for a particular time. You spend 15 minutes in an anteroom watching a video, then 15 minutes in the chapel of frescoes. I understand that Giotto invented the fresco technique. There is also a museum and a sculpture garden there. The main market in Padua is famous as one of Italy's finest, both the outdoor produce market and the indoor market of booths of specialties like cheeses, pastas, baked goods, fish, fowl, horse and donkey meat, and on and on. It is a modest and pretty flat walk from the station to the Chapel, and then the same on to the market. The Basilica of St. Anthony of Padua is a much longer walk through town, but there is a bus too, and then back to the station. To go by train from Verona to Ravenna, you connect in Bologna. It usually takes about 3 hours, but I found an early 7:50 am fast train to Bologna that saved an hour. I saved a bundle well in advance, might not be worth the difference at this late date. Hope some of that helps.

Posted by
5187 posts

Thanks Larry!

I just realized that some nice travelers had sent me PM's & since I'm such a 'newbie' at this forum, I didn't even know they were there!
Someone related their travel experience & gave me a good recommendation for a hotel in Padua.
They stayed in Padua & took day trips to Venice, Verona, etc... good idea since Padua is so much closer to Venice.

Confession : I've never visited a forum before.

Visiting this forum has been very helpful but also confusing with so much info, ideas, etc...

I have been reading several travel guidebooks & know where I want to go but I keep trying to keep my
mom's limitations in mind.

Your idea sounds great but I don't think she would like going on a train back to Verona all by herself.

I know we will have a great trip but I just need to finalize my itinerary & stop over thinking it.

And... start making some reservations!

Thank you sooo much!

Macy

Posted by
2455 posts

Yup, as time is getting short, you need to make some decisions about where you will base yourselves, so you can reserve rooms. I don't think you want to show up in popular towns in September, and need to find a hotel or inn at that time. Although Padua might have more late availability than either Venice or Verona, where more visitors stay. If your mama knows and does not especially like Venice, you might want to go in on your own. Even using vaporettos you will walk a lot in Venice, which almost always means multiple bridges. The biggest bridges include lots of stairs on each end, and the smaller bridges usually mean a few stairs on each end too. Enjoy!
PS: where are you in California?

Posted by
5187 posts

We live in southern California.
We have been to Carmel several times over the years and I love it there! I could see myself living there, someday.
But I couldn't afford it!
Forgive me if I'm repeating this question; Did you actually stay in one or several cities around Lake Garda or did you just take a day trip when you took the ferry to Bardolino?
My brain is overloaded with info that I'm becoming forgetful about what I've just read.
Thanks again!
Macy/ Newbie :)

P.S. Do you know Roberto personally or just through this forum?
Sorry about not spacing this post correctly. Good night....

Posted by
5187 posts

Larry,

I forgot to ask you. Where did you stay in Venice? Or was it a day trip too? I haven't read much about Venice since I hadn't plan to go there but I've looked at maps & it looks so confusing! I also watched RS travel video on YouTube (filmed in 2011) & he said that it cost around 100Euros to ride a gandola and to steer away from Rialto Bridge which is a tourist trap!

Macy

Posted by
15041 posts

I didn't realize the trip was this close for you.
The only place where all hotel rooms might be sold out could be Venice. Check www.venere.com or www.booking.com. Use the map feature because many advertised hotels are actually in the mainland.
If Venice is all booked, Mestre in the mainland is close(less than 10 min with very frequent trains). Padua is also not far. Lots of people actually stay in Padua and visit Venice from there (not the same, but my daily commute is longer than Padua to Venice).

Posted by
2455 posts

Macy, tell your mama that 80s is the new 60s. Yes, real estate in Carmel can be pricey, as in many parts of California. Many residents could not afford to live here if they hadn't already been doing so for 20 or 30 years. My trip to Lake Garda was just a day trip from Verona -- early bus to Sirmione, whole morning there, early afternoon ferry to Bardolino for a few hours, then bus back to Verona for dinner and the evening and night. I would have liked to visit other areas on the lake, but Roberto had said with one day and no car, you really need to choose the southern or northern end of the lake, no time to do more. He was right, as the lake is big.
I would not especially recommend the place I stayed most recently in Venice, it was OK but nothing special. I chose for the location, which suited my needs, but was not ideal for most people. Whether you go to Venice as a day trip or to spend some nights, you really need to think about your mama's limitations of dealing with stairs. Even if you ride the vaporettos, you will still have considerable walking, which generally means multiple bridges. The biggest bridges have many steps at each end, probably 4 to 5 flights at each end of the Rialto Bridge, and the small bridges usually have a number of steps at each end too. It can be tough walking around Venice with baggage, with strollers or with mobility problems. If you stay in Padua, and your mama knows and does not especially like Venice, you might want to plan a rest day for her in Padua, and an active day in Venice for you. I think you might both be happier than with her struggling to get around in Venice. I think Venice is wonderful and unique, but probably not nearly as enjoyable if you are either rushing around to see things in one day, or struggling to get around. You will likely have limited choices of lodging in Venice at this point, many people reserve many months in advance. And yes, gondola rides are expensive, even more if you want music on the ride. The Rialto area is touristy, but can also be very beautiful and interesting, especially in the early morning and the evening, when the day trippers have thinned out. Venice and Rialto used to be separate towns, Venice was the government and religious center, and Rialto the business center. And the Rialto Bridge used to be the only one over the Grand Canal, if I have that right. You can take a vaporetto and go by the area and under the bridge, to see it without actually dealing with it. Not as much fun though. G'night.

Posted by
11613 posts

If you and your Mom want to visit Venice, adjust your expectations to perhaps walking around a couple of sights with good vaporetto stops and no or few bridges in between. Buy the vaporetto pass and you can get on and off as many times as you want in a specific time period. Avoiding even one bridge by taking the vaporetto to the next stop can be a big help in avoiding stairs. At Piazza San Marco, there is an elevator (after about a dozen steps) to the top of the bell tower for beautiful 360-degree views of Venice and the lagoon.

Posted by
5187 posts

A BIG THANK YOU TO ZOE, ROBERTO, LARRY & EVERYONE WHO REPLIED TO MY POST!!!

I appreciate all your opinions, suggestions, recommendations, etc, etc....

I know my mom & I will have a great trip!

Thanks again!

Macy :)

Posted by
11613 posts

Padova over Mantova. Ravenna if you are interested in beautiful mosaics, Ferrara if you want a castle and a lovely setting.

Posted by
5187 posts

Thanks Zoe!

We plan to stay in Padova (Padua) & take day trip to Venice.
Then we will head off to Ravenna & take day trip to Ferrarra.

I had wanted to stay In Ferrara but had difficulty finding accomodations
due to some type of "fair' going on during the dates we will be in the area.

Thanks again!

Macy :)

Posted by
11613 posts

Which fair? Ferrara has a Palio (similar to Siena's), might be fun to do your daytrip the day of the fair, but you already know to expect crowds.

Posted by
5187 posts

Hi Zoe,

I believe it's a business convention but the B&B staff whom I spoke with had difficulty explaining & just said;
"all hotels are booked because of a fair"
I will check Ferrara's tourist website.
Take care :)

Posted by
11613 posts

A day trip could be a good idea if the convention folks are all indoors at meetings.

Sounds like a great trip you are planning!