Please sign in to post.

Haven't been back in 20 years!!! Help us decide where to go.

Hello all,
I am researching the possibility of a trip next June to Italy with my 16 year old son. As far as background, I have been to Italy but that experience dates back 20+ years. I have spent a week in Umbria in a villa near Panicale, and several days each in Rome,Livorno,Venice,Florence. My son has been with me to France for three seperate two week vacations and has loved that experience. Upon returning home form France this summer he commented to me that he would like to go back to France or Italy. So, since we’ve spent several vacations in France, Italy it is!!

I’ll try to be brief yet give you ideas of how we like to travel and what we like to do so your recommendations can the most helpful. We will go for two weeks in mid June, I prefer late September but school schedule dictates when we can go. We enjoy staying in villas/gites for a week at a time, typically in smaller towns/village and taking day trips from that location. I’m an ex chef and we really enjoy dining out at simple but authentic local restaurants, visiting markets, exploring villages, photographing landscapes some hiking possibilitie,”maybe” a bike/Vespa outing and he would love the opportunity to do some fishing. We fly fished for trout in the French Basque Country and he would enjoy being able to deep sea fish if it could be worked in to the schedule. He has enjoyed cooking along side me so a cooking class would be great. He also loves expensive European sports cars so a trip to one of the big Italian sport car manufacturers may be in the cards if it works into a schedule. We are not big museum goers/art aficionados however do enjoy the local architecture. If we venture into a city ie. Florence we would likely train in from a smaller town/village that we would be based in.

So, we are looking for two destinations to base ourselves for a week each. Renting a car and probably flying in/out of Florence. Italy is certainly much more touristed than when I was last there and for instance as much as I loved the few days I spent in Venice in the late fall 20+ years ago, from the reports I have read about the current level of tourism in Venice I would not want to make an effort to go there in mid June. Below I will list some ideas/requirements about where we might go.

Two areas with different feels

Being in or close to a small town/village so access to markets/restos/bakeries/cafes etc.. We eat dinner out a lot and a put a lot of effort into resarching great restaurants in advance and making reservations before we go. Like to either eat in the village or drive max 30 minutes one way to go out to eat at night. We just picnic for lunch.

Enough to see within a max drive of 1.5 hours ish each way for day trips. We don’t like to spend all of out time in the car. On the note of cars and driving, I have driven many times in France and a bit in Italy but as I get older am not fond of “white knuckle driving” situations. So, super windy, mountainous, tons of blind curves switchback driving is not for me. That will certainly rule out various destinations.

I’ll leave it here for now. Just to sum up, looking for two destinations with a different feel to each area. I have been thinking about a week again in Umbria and then a more coastal (although not necessarily having to be “on the coast” ) week in Le Marche which I have been reading good things about. Not sure if venturing to the far south for one week is in the cards if we fly in/out of Florence although the difference of the south compared to the more northernly area I have visited intrigues me. Where should I go that I haven’t been? Most of Italy!!! and what would be a great two week/two location introduction to Italy for my son? We’re open to all suggestions and comments, thanks in advance for any responses you may have.

Best regards,
wvdthree

PS. Buying an open jaw ticket may not be out of the question if it helps the cause.

Posted by
4105 posts

Two spots that immediately come to mind are Bologna and Bari. Roughly a six hour drive between. Or around an hours flight.

Bologna would satisfy your love if food and his love of cars.

Bari is a nice area enabling day trips both north and south. For fishing you'd need to check out licensing requirements in Italy.

Posted by
70 posts

Thanks Gerri,
The area around Bologna has been on my distant radar regarding the food culture in that area. And it looks like we could visit the Lamborghini factory in the area. Haven't thought about Bari but will look into it.

Cheers,
wvdthree

Posted by
11156 posts

I was thinking Bologna too and liked Bari but for Puglia would stay in Polignano, Monopoli or Lecce. We stayed in Polignano a Mare.
We really enjoyed Alba in the Piemonte and it fits your requirements. Much less touristed than Tuscany. In Umbria, we found Spello an excellent base for two weeks. For the size of the town, it had a large number of excellent restaurants. It worked well as a base too.

Posted by
4371 posts

I thought of the Bologna area also. That would make a nice combo with Marche. Senigallia is a great food town, and maybe the fishing part could happen there.

Posted by
2047 posts

We have spent time in Bologna and Marche. Both were great destinations. Bologna has wonderful restaurants and food. The Ferrari factory in Modena is fun to visit, especially if you have a car. Visiting a balsamic vinegar operation is also worthwhile and. Going to Marche from Bologna is an easy drive thar takes you along the Adriatic coast. Let me know what destinations you choose. I’d he happy to share some of our favorite restaurants and small towns in the areas. Would your son enjoy a cooking class?

Posted by
70 posts

Hello all,
Thanks for the responses! I have a few questions based on your posts.

I've never been to Bari, or southern Italy and several of you seem to suggest it as a base. What are the reasons you are drawn to that area? Food, countryside, history, architecture ? I am going to research if there are any deep sea fishing charters out of that region.

Any recommendations for small towns/villages around Bari ( I know Suki recommended a few near Bari)?

Any in the Le Marche area or around Bologna?

Yes, we would love to take a cooking class, maybe pasta? And touring a balsamic producer would definitely be of interest.

The Piemonte is a trip I looked at with my ex which never happened and draws at that time were the incredible landscapes and great wines. I'll take another look at this region.

Thanks in advance for any further comments.

Cheers,
wvdthree

Posted by
4371 posts

I don't think Bari itself would fit your parameters, just given its size (the old town is great and you might look into pasta making classes there) but nearby Monopoli has a fishing tradition.
Senigallia is in Marche--there and smaller Fano seemed to be fishing centers.

Posted by
479 posts

Bologna definitely fits your interests in food. Also, it's a rail hub so you could take some great day trips to Parma, Modena, etc. without needing a car during that week. You could also check on flights in/out of Bologna. I found the airport to be easy to navigate. We returned a rental car at Bologna airport and that was easy, with quick walking access to the terminal.

Posted by
1387 posts

Think about Torino and its wonderful car museum and Egyptian museum, and its great food. Perfectly easy to stay instead in Alba for a week (which we did) and take the train into Torino just for the museums. Drive around to the nice smaller towns in Piemonte.

The heavily touristed places in Italy in the heat of summer are probably even less fun for a teenager to deal with than they are for an adult. That's one reason for visiting regions like Piemonte, Puglia, and Emilia Romagna instead. They are full of interesting things to see and do, but they don't have the Vatican or Uffizi or Leaning Tower, etc, etc.

Posted by
6893 posts

I'll join the chorus: reading your post, I thought "Bologna", then "oh, why not Turin / Piemont"? Beautiful, untouristy, amazing food, fun.
If you want to throw in a seaside location, Liguria is close to Piemont.

Milan is a good, and usually affordable, flight hub for both areas.

Posted by
70 posts

Thanks again to all for the replies! Puglia seems to come up frequently as a good base for one of the weeks. I know I asked this question earlier but as I have not gotten a direct response I will ask it again. What is the real draw of Puglia? Food, history, landscapes, architecture? Outside of trying to locate a fishing opportunity for my son and I, I am not by nature a huge coastal/beach kind of guy. I mean it's fine but not a landscape or area I am passionately drawn to. Thanks for any responses.

wvdthree

Posted by
2047 posts

With two weeks, I’d stay north. The Le Marche coasts has wonderful towns and definite fishing opportunities. I’ll look for some of the places we enjoyed around Bologna and send them to you in a private message.

Posted by
4371 posts

I think it is just an difficult question to answer because it is either info found in a book or it's a personal/subjective thing. Like all regions of Italy, Puglia is unique, but it's trulli villages and cuisine make it stand out even more (it's nirvana for vegetarians even more than the rest of Italy, but meat and fish are of course well represented). The far south has a mystique but the interior Itria valley has the trulli structures, so it's not all about the sea. But for your timeline, I would also stay north if Bologna gets the first week. Sounds like Umbria and Marche would be more to your liking--rolling hills and atmospheric hill towns. While Marche has a coast that is quite stunning in a couple parts, it is its hill town interior that stands out. Agriturismi are even more of a draw because a lot of the towns are too small to even have b&bs.

Posted by
70 posts

Thanks for your clarification valadelphia! So would you go so far as to say that if we did stay in an independent villa (instead of an agriturismo) inland, in some of the small hill villages that if we might find it challenging to find restaurants to eat at during the evening within an easy drive? I find some aspects of an agriturismo appealing (we often eat at ferme auberges in France and while you don't sleep there the ingredients are mostly produced locally) I would want to know the dining part of the experience there is fantastic if we feel somewhat locked into dining there every night. I enjoy the challenge and opportunity of researching and going to a variety of restaurants in the near by area.

Posted by
4371 posts

If you plan to drive to dinner, then yes, a lot of research will need to be done. That's the fun part! This will not be a problem in any sizable place in Marche, such as Urbino, Ascoli Piceno. But if staying in an agriturismo near a village, then I'd spend most of my time researching dining options. We stay in towns because we drink and do not like to drive to dinner, so I can't recommend any, just have seen mention of many such places in Marche. I have seen this place praised often over the years: https://latavolamarche.blogspot.com/

Posted by
70 posts

Valadelphia,
Just looked at La Tavola Marche and it looks amazing if pricey! May entertain that idea. You mentioned that you tend to stay in towns so you can walk to dinner. Can you mention what towns you might recommend if we change our mind on the whole village idea? is it Urbino and Ascoli Piceno? Thanks again.

Posted by
4371 posts

I stayed in Ascoli Piceno and loved it--perched among mountains but with a vibrant feel (I'm finding a always like college towns for that reason). We also loved Senigallia--I have to have some sea time on any trip, and it is unique in that there is an intact old town just minutes on foot from some nice beaches. It has some Michelin starred restaurants but plenty of the homey places that seafood fans live for. We did not get to Urbino, but that is another of the larger places in Marche where you would not have to worry about it being too quiet.