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Have you been to Matera? I would appreciate your comments.

We are going to Italy next March and my husband suggested including Caserta and Matera. We will have six nights to devote to this portion of the trip. I am thinking of the following:

Train from Milan to Naples, transfer there to the train to Caserta. Spend two nights there (he has been watching an Italian travelogue and is fascinated by the palace and the silk factory so wants lots of time there).

Then take the train from Caserta to Bari, transferring there to the private train to Matera:

https://ferrovieappulolucane.it/

I think we need three nights in Matera.

To return to Naples, I am looking at the bus/train combo via Salerno (both booked with Trenitalia). We would spend one night in Naples (I know that is not enough but we will be back) and then take the train up to Venice.

I would particularly appreciate comments on the transportation options (we prefer trains since my husband’s bad back likes him to get up and walk around) and lodging. I read that staying in the sassy is a “must” for Matera. Are these rooms without windows? Do they feel at all claustrophobic? Any particular recommendations?

I think we will take a couple of guided walking tours at Matera.

Thanks for your help.

Posted by
1223 posts

We spent two nights in Matera, having spent the previous night at Altamura, so we arrived by train mid-morning in Matera.
We stayed here http://www.ladolcevitamatera.it/en/, sleeping in a cave room that was not claustrophobic at all.

Definitely stay in the sassi, a most unique experience.

Posted by
16257 posts

Thank you. I have seen other recommendations for that inn, so will consider it seriously. I am glad to know it does not feel claustrophobic.

I want to add that the travelogue my husband watches is by Alfredo Angelo. If you can understand Italian, they are well worth watching. He watches on RAI (Italian TV) but you can find many on YouTube.

Posted by
3812 posts

Why are you backtracking by train from Bari to Matera? Trenitalia.com shows a train from Caserta to Salerno and a connecting bus to Matera. I think Italo has a similar train&bus option, too.

Staying 2 days in Caserta is quite odd, do not expect a Sorrento-style picturesque town.

It's Sassi, by the way, It means stones; there was nothing cheeky in those caves when people and animals had to live there.

Posted by
1388 posts

Everybody's different --- we spent 3 nights in Matera without any day trips and we wished for one more night.

Our B&B was La Corte dei Pastori which had a lovely terrace overlooking the sassi.

Posted by
16257 posts

Dario, I am trying to use trains rather than buses as much as possible, although I know the route via Bari does involve backtracking. But I plan to take the bus-train combo through Salerno when we leave Matera for Naples. I will look at the travel times for taking that route going to Matera as well, it I think my husband would be happier on the train even if it is longer.

If we spend two nights in Caserta that will give us just one full day, which we will need to see all that my husband wants to see there. I am not expecting a picturesque town like Sorrento, but it appears there are decent places to stay and eat.

Posted by
257 posts

When I took the South Italy RS Tour, we stayed at the Locanda di San Martino, which was lovely and has a wonderful spa under the hotel. The view from my room was of the oldest part of town and beatiful at night. Fair amount of up and down walking in town, but not severe. The palace in Caserta is very close to the train station as is the Royal Caserta Hotel. Also can recommend a very good restaurant in Caserta if you want to message me. Would need a car or taxi to get there though. There were NO tourists at the restaurant when I was there.

Posted by
698 posts

Matera was one of my favorite stops on a tour of southern Italy. You definitely want to stay in the Sassi. Like Dan, we stayed at Locanda di San Martino and thoroughly enjoyed the thermal spa at the bottom of the hotel. The rooms were not claustrophobic at all.

How long you spend in Matera depends on your interests. If you just want to check the major sites off your list, one full day is fine. If you like to explore and get lost, I would recommend a longer stay. I stayed for two nights and wish I had stayed longer. In an odd way, it reminds me of a poor man's version of Venice. Throw out your guidebook and map, and just wander through the winding streets of the Sassi. No matter how turned around you get, you will always find your way back eventually.

We were there in 2015 and there were very few tourists. (I hear that things are a little more crowded now.) The locals were welcoming, the food was amazing, and the overall vibe was relaxed and positive.

I was on a tour and so I can't comment on transportation options.

Posted by
2732 posts

Hi Lola. Matera was one of the highlights of our RS South of Italy tour in May. So much unique history because of the caves. Definitely take a local tour to learn about the Sassi. Our local guide included this museum in our tour
http://www.casacisterna.it/

We stayed at http://www.locandadisanmartino.it/en/termae-romanae-3/. Our room was large. Only windows are at the front of the room but the room was not claustrophobic. During the day it was light but at night it was pitch black. We left a light on at night so we could find the bathroom.
Because we were on the tour I don’t know about transportation. The town is very walkable but be aware that the Sassi has large cobblestones that looked like they could be slippery if wet and lots of stairs (if you have mobility issues). Two night visit to Matera or three nights if you want a relaxed visit would be my recommendation.

Posted by
16257 posts

Thank you, Marie and Horsewoofie. We have booked three nights in a hotel in the Sassi (Dodici Lune). That will give us lots of time to explore the town and the nearby national park area. We love to hike and do not mind stairs, but I will be wary of those slippery cobblestones!

Posted by
598 posts

Matera is a wonderful place to visit; it is so unique, even in Italy. I would, however, recommend a guided tour and can strongly recommend Antonio Mancione with Matera Tour Guide. We did a two hour walking tour with him in 2017. He is a native and actually told us that his own grandmother had lived in one of the caves years ago. His knowledge of, and affection for, Matera shown through during the tour. Here is a link to his website: http://www.materatourguide.it/public/en/about/

About the train from Bari to Matera...it was one of the nicest trains we've taken in Italy. But be sure to check the schedule closely. When we took it, we were not told that we needed to change trains in Altamura and ended up at the end of the line. That was certainly our own fault and we were fortunate that the train personnel were so nice to us. They didn't even make us buy another ticket. I think there are some direct trains, but just be aware.

Have a great time in Matera. Buon Viaggio!

Posted by
47 posts

We had the pleasure of visiting Matera during the RS Southern Italy tour. It is a lovely unique place. The hotel was in the
Sassi. It is called Locando do San Martino. The room was a cave-no windows but glass panel
Double doors which brought in natural light and many strategically placed lighting fixtures.

I would recommend it. Enjoy your trip!

Posted by
133 posts

I had wanted to visit the Palace in Caserta, but only allowed one night there. I was disappointed that I had to skip the Palace because we arrived too late in the day to see it! Lesson learned. Matera is amazing. We rented a car in Bari and travelled throughout the Boot. Can't wait to return.

Posted by
15003 posts

Let me throw a wrench into your plans....since you are in the area, no plans for Alberobella?

Oh, and I reported the above spam.

Posted by
11156 posts

Yes toAlberobello! Fascinating. In fact, Puglia is worth your time, beautiful towns and villages.