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Has anyone visited Pontremoli, Fosdinovo or others in Massa-Carrara?

I am curious about some of the small towns with castles in the Massa-Carrara region, in particular the Lunigiana area. I understand there are over 30 castles in the hills. Also towns like Bardi, Fivizzano, Compiano, and others. It would be great to hear from someone who has visited this area that seems off the beaten path.