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Guidance on Sicily, and more

Hi everyone, I have come to have great admiration and appreciation for the experiences and knowledge of people on this Helpline, and everyone's willingness to share. It seems that as a group, participants seem to know just about everyplace and everything related to travel in Italy.

I spent last month (Oct 2013) traveling around northern Italy, partly on an RS My Way Tour and partly on my own. Had a wonderful if exhausting trip, and learned a lot of travel lessons. Two places I kept hearing praised, that I had never considered visiting before, were Sicily and the Amalfi Coast. I returned home with a renewed travel bug, and somehow my hands started walking over my keyboard, and with no one to hold me back, and I have just committed to make another 4-week trip to Italy,in May 2014, this time focusing on those two areas, plus the only good return flight I could get for miles on United's Mileage Plus was out of Venice, so my gosh, I'll need to go back north too. Fortunately I love Venice. I have several areas where I can use your guidance, and I'll do this in parts. I know that for arranging good lodging in various places in May, advance scheduling and reservations will be key. My interests are general not specialized: typical life and traditions, great scenery, history, varied art but not so much paintings hanging in frames on walls, festivals and markets, and great food. Rarely met an Italian carb that I didn't really like!

First, Sicily will be the easiest part to plan, as I will begin my trip with the RS May 4 to 13 Sicily Tour. This begins and ends in Palermo, and makes a loop with stops in Cefalo, Taormina/Mt Etna, Catania, Siracusa, Caltagirone and Agrigento, generally two nights each. Of course the tour provides the plan and transport, guides, the lodging and many of the meals.

I will fly into Palermo from the States mid-day on May 1, after a strange flight plan involving two overnight flights with a 10 hour day-long layover at JFK in NY in the middle, plus short flights to begin and end, so I expect to arrive quite wiped out. I will have the days and nights of May 1, 2, 3 and some of 4 before the tour begins, and would appreciate your ideas for that time. I see two basic possibilities for these first days, one would be to stay in or very near Palermo itself, to rest and explore. The other would be to head to the nearby northwest coast of Erice, Trapani, and maybe Marsala and Mazara del Vallo. You might have additional ideas for me.

Do any of you know these areas, and what would you suggest? Would you suggest Palermo or the coast for this time? Can one go directly by bus from Palermo Airport which is west of the city, to that coastal area? Could the coastal area be visited by bus or day tour, or would a rental car be needed? Can you suggest comfortable but affordable lodging in both areas? For the coast, should that be in Erice, Trapani or elsewhere else? (In northern Italy, I was able to find good single rooms in the 60-90 euro range everywhere in October, usually but not always from RS book recommendations. I like clean, comfortable, convenient and friendly, but don't need fancy).

An added possibility is for me to spend three or four more days in Sicily in mid-May after the tour, before heading further north. I could visit the northwest coastal area then, or some other place relatively near Palermo that is not included in the tour. Do any of you have great ideas on that, including lodging recs? I could rent a car for that time, although having a car might be relatively costly and tough to navigate for just one person.

Thanks for your thinking on any of this! Larry

Posted by
1446 posts

First of all, May 1st is a holiday in Europe, and as it falls later in the week, those first days (May 1-4) will be a holiday long week-end. It will be essential for you to nail your accommodations ahead of time!

Let me add my voice to those who love Sicily! I went back twice and I would go back in a flash. Here are some suggestions, as they come off the top of my head, in different price ranges (do consider a splurge, like in Scopello):

Your flight to Palermo lands in Punta Reisi, west of the city itself. It would not be difficult to rent a car upon arrival and head to my favorite spot 25 minutes away: Scopello. If you make it to the Tenute Plaia Vini B&B in Scopello, get Cinzia to give you directions to go sunbathing and swimming at the old tonnara - it's a great rest day to start with and it will be swimable that early! I'd spend at least your first two nights, at my favorite B&B in Sicily:
http://www.agriturismotenuteplaia.it/eng/ -- superb food!

Ideally, I would combine your first two nights in this corner (Scopello/Castellammare del Golfo) and the next two nights in Erice, before joining up with the group in Palermo. Incidentally, the RS tour used to include an overnight in Scopello, as I bumped into some there. They stayed in the tiny village itself. Castellammare del Golfo is closer to the airport, before Scopello, and is a slightly larger seaside town where you would probably find something more on the budget end.

Just don't get confused when looking at lodgings that say that they are in Trapani: be aware that it's a larger province that covers the whole northwest corner, as well as the city of Trapani itself (which IMO has no redeeming features). A car would be essential for properly exploring all that this corner offers and it would be extremely handy to pick it up and drop it off at the airport itself.

It's also very easy to head into Palermo without a car, on arrival at the airport, using the suburban train. I've overnighted in Palermo for a couple of nights as well (positive experience staying solo at Giorgio's House B&B). However, my strong personal bias is to not stay in Palermo. Do not even consider driving in Palermo if you are coming in by car -- park in Monreale's big parking lots and take a clean & safe transit bus down into downtown Palermo. Since in your case, you'll have the group stay in Palermo, that should be sufficient IMO.

Here's another fabulous base for Palermo, Monreale & the wineries (Calatrasi winery is a great visit!):
http://www.casaledelprincipe.it/

As I mentioned, a car is really needed in this corner. Make sure that it has a proper trunk/boot, to hide your suitcase and day bag. I was driving solo the first time that I went and it was very fine. This is one region tho where we always make sure to get a zero-deductible rental: I hit a submerged rock once combing down Mt. Etna, crossing a dip in the road in torrential rain. Be aware that there is no coastal road between Scopello and San Vito lo Capo. The inland route does take you to the spectacular Greek site of Segesta.

Posted by
1446 posts

The next time I go, I would stay in Erice for two nights. It's a pretty hilltop village above Trapani, handy to Marsala. A nice place to just hang out and stroll in the evenings when the day-trippers have left. Just north of Trapani, along the coast, are a couple of the beach resorts and some agriturismos as well (recs: Tenute Pizzolungo, Bagio Costa di Mandorla). Trapani is quite grungy IMO. Marsala would be a good choice as well.

The driving distances from Erice, down the hill, towards the saline & Mozia, Marsala, and even San Vito lo Capo are not that great at all and the driving is easy in that part of Sicily (except Trapani). Parking is also not an issue there, even in Erice. The switchbacks up the hill to Erice are impressive though...

Also worth mentioning: In Sicily, many small places are not on TA, so try Trivago too. If they are on TA, they're often predominately rated by Italians who come down from the north, and as a result, their ratings suffer. It's essential, for Sicily ratings, to read between the lines... it's not unusual at all to see poor ratings from Italians and great ratings from foreigners for the same place. Some of it is the north-south divide, some of it is politics, etc..

Where ever you decide to stay, the people you will encounter will steer you well to open establishments. You will probably NEED to make restaurant reservations that week-end - arrange this with your host. Even a normal Sunday sees good restaurants booked solid! Sicilians take their food very seriously indeed...

Just 10 min. before San Vito lo Capo (Contrada Valanga) is my favorite restaurant in all of Sicily: Da Alfredo's. The frutta di mare triple-hitter pasta dish is amazing, as is the fresh fish!! Call and find out when they will be open that week-end (maybe Sat?): 0923-972366. Plan your day trip to this corner around a meal here - seriously! The reviews for this place suffer, especially with Italians (ie from Rome and points north...) because of Alfredo's politics (he's a character), which frankly, we can remain happily oblivious to - leaving us to blissfully concentrate on his excellent cooking! I've been back every trip.

I'm jealous! I really need to go back! ;-)

After your tour, here's what I suggest you do (and have done in reverse):

Take the ferry to Lipari. Stay 2-3 nights and use it as a base for exploring the Aeolian Islands. Take a late afternoon boat trip to Stromboli, one that does a slow pass on the side to view the strombolian eruptions. Another interesting hop is to Vulcano. I stayed in Hotel Oriente, one of the many good choices there.

From Lipari, take another ferry to Naples. Find a B&B in Sorrento and use it as a base. It has great ferry, bus and train connections to the whole area: Naples itself, Pompeii, Capri, Ravenna and the Amalfi Coast (ferry one way, bus back the other way).

Posted by
1446 posts

Another practical suggestion, given how beat that you'll be on arrival, is to get a pick-up arranged by Tenute Plaia Vini. Get a quote for half or full board for the first two nights; then get them to drop you back off to pick-up a rental car for the next two days. Spend the first day and a half just vegging, enjoying the sea, the wine and the food in Scopello! :-)

Posted by
1540 posts

Hi - I scanned thru you post and I may have missed you referencing this site....
but I used it extensively in planning for Sicily.
It has links to hundreds of bit of info, maps, business hours, prices - all over Sicily.

http://www.bestofsicily.com/

hope the hyperlink works for you.

Posted by
16600 posts

I concur with the choice of Scopello. A gem of a village. I stayed at a small hotel "downtown" (Pensione Tranchina), just 10 meters from the main piazza.
http://www.pensionetranchina.com

Besides the Tonnara (tuna cannery), there is the Zingaro Reserve park next to it. Early May the weather and the sea water may not be hot, but you might be able to enjoy a hike through the cliffs in the park. It's just as beautiful as a hike at the Cinque Terre.

If you rent a car (and you should, unless you decide to stay in Palermo), you don't need to switch hotels to visit Erice or any place in that area. I stayed there the whole time and commuted to everywhere else. Segesta is just 30 min away. Selinunte is a 60 min drive, nearly all freeway. Erice is less than 45 min from Scopello. San Vito Lo Capo (voted the best beach in Italy every year) is not far either. So basically you can use Scopello as your base for your entire visit in the Trapani province. Then it's always nice, after a day trip here and there, to come back to the village and spend your evening at one of the Bar Gelaterias inside the XII century Baglio (fortified farmhouse) in the main piazza. You will feel like a local surrounded by the local villagers (and some tourists too, since the village is popular with European tourists).

Posted by
1446 posts

Roberto is right about using Scopelleo as a base, very doable for points east as far as Monreale, down to the wineries south of Palermo and west to San Vito lo Capo and Erice. However, it's just a little too far for Marsala, the saline, Mozia and other points south of Trapani, which is why I suggested Erice as a base as well.

I'd have no trouble at all planning four days out of Scopello!!