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Gran Sasso Area of Abruzzo

Anyone been? Any particular towns, villages or natural sites you would recommend? I will be in Abruzzo for five days (exclusive of travel). A lot of the places I flagged for Abruzzo seem to be in the southeast, closer to Molise and the Adriatic, but we fell in love with (the listing for) an agriturismo in a more remote part of Abruzzo above L'Aquila closer to the Lazio border, but in the Gran Sasso (Agriturismo La Canestra) and I haven't found that much within an hour's drive. Reviews said the owners were able to recommend some good places, but I'd like to have at least a tentative list. I know the national park itself is a big attraction, but haven't found much information regarding where to hike and such.

Separately, is L'Aquila worth a visit? It's the regional capital but haven't seen it on many lists.

Some places I've flagged are Assergi, Pietracamela, and Santo Stefano. Any thoughts on these places?

thanks in advance!

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11800 posts

We have stayed outside the park near Isola del Gran Sasso as well as in Santo Stefano and Castelli. Santo Stefano is quite interesting as it was in virtual ruins before a hotel company took over a big portion and created a “diffused” hotel. The lodging are in former homes all over the town.

Calascio is interesting with its castle ruins high above. The film “Ladyhawke” was made there. Castel del Monte is pleasant and is where the George Clooney movie “The American” was filmed. Castelli is known for its ceramics.

L’Aquila was heavily damaged by an earthquake in 2009 and AFAIK has not recovered.

Some inspiration here https://www.cnn.com/travel/article/italy-abruzzo-best-things-to-do/index.html

Posted by
407 posts

Dear Daniel
Yes have been to this location. My family and I got lost moving from Carapelle Calvisio, Abruzzo to an agriturismo near Todi ,Umbria.
15th Sept 2018. I recorded in my travel diary - magical. I do not recall what I actually had, but it was all from the farm and splendid.
It is definitely the real Italian family life. Don't know about hiking, but I can tell you about some of the hilltop villages south west of L'Aquila.
I think you should get/need a car. When are you going to be there?
Please ask more questions? Not to sure where you are Daniel, may need to make allowances for the time differential.
Regards
Ron

Posted by
69 posts

Thanks Ron and Laurel! Would love to hear about the villages and anything else in the area you enjoyed.

We will be there in mid-May, so I assume the weather will be roughly comparable to September. We will have a car.

Posted by
407 posts

Daniel. Background, my favourite (and only) daughter-in-law’s nono is from San Pio delle Camere and her nona is from Castelvecchio Calvisio. She has a great aunt and numerous cousins in the area. We were there to acquaint her young children with the extended Italian family. Rented a house at Carapelle for a week from 7th Sept to 14th. Temperature around 25c.
The link Laurel provided is spot on, make sure you check it out.
L’Aquila. Lots of cranes on the skyline. Did not go into the city proper.
Santo Stefano di Sessanio. Laurel has given an excellent description of the town. Apparently was controlled by the di Medici family for a long period. From my perspective worth the drive there.
Castelvechio Calviso. Dropped into the tavern for a beer, the locals asked me what I was doing there. They did not see it as place for tourists. Just what I was looking for. Gained some history and what drives the local economy. Not for everyone.
Calascio. Laurel has covered it well. I think it provides some local administrative/shire role for the area. The castle ruins are quite a trek, not a lot of parking, but it made me think about the effort the people who lived at that time put into transporting materials and building the castle and other buildings. Restaurant Da Clara for dinner, local food and drinks 7 adults and 5 children Є110. I think I got the local price as I tried to converse in Italian and told the owners where we from. Some of the local patrons were particularly interested about where we came from.
Castello del Monte. Laurel’s spot on again. There is a lot of reconstruction happening from the 2009 earthquake. A church that apparently is of importance. The town is used by the Italian film industry for dark age through renaissance period. I was drawn to the town by Clooney’s art house film. After walking around the town, the family took the children to a nice park and I went to a tavern in the centre of the town. Pictures of Clooney and the locals everywhere. The patrons gave me a good run through on what happened during the filming, and I concluded he was a good bloke. I did not want to leave but eventually was dragged out to the nice restaurant next door, Osteria del Lupo. Apparently, wolves are still plentiful in the area. Local food, excellent price and a young obliging local waiter. I had an enjoyable afternoon and evening.
My two sons and son-in-law had a great time driving on the winding skinny roads. They thought they were rally driving. Would not let me join in the fun. We leased 3 Peugeot 3008 SUV.
Daniel, I have more stuff about Abruzzo and Umbria. Is this what you are after?
Regards
Ron

Posted by
69 posts

Ron, thank you so much--your post has been the of the best Abruzzo resources I've found. I'm going to do some more research into all of those places and flag the restaurant recommendations. I'll eventually report back after our trip. Any info/tips for Abruzzo and Umbria will be very much appreciated if you feel like sharing. Our next stop is an agriturismo outside of Spoleto.

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407 posts

Daniel, more on our time in Abruzzo. These are further south or on the coast. Personally, not wild about the coast or beaches, but I have been spoilt at home. On Sunday drove to Pescara for a swim. Most places require payment for access to the beach which gives you a couple of plastic chairs and an umbrella. Found a small area of free access. Same water, same sand and no surf but free. Pescara was apparently home to Dean Martin’s parents. Post WW2 buildings and no surf, so boring in my eyes. Drove south towards Vasto looking for a trabocchi for lunch. Should have booked, nice drive though. Maybe try again this year by booking somewhere.
Sulmona is west of the Majella Mountains. Spent a few hours here on market day to purchase local foods for our meals. Good sized market. Some interesting roman history. To me a nice small town. Home to confectionary confetti. Some great artistic displays in the shops, too good to eat. Had a haircut. The owner grew up and learnt his trade in Canadian Niagara but had then decided to return to his birthplace. He wasn’t busy so we had a good yarn. My wife had purchased nice tomatoes from an old lady in the market and told me to go and talk to her. I tried to tell her that I usually grow a few in summer, but only seemed to irritate her. The bloke in the stall next to her couldn’t stop laughing. He told me that I had the incorrect dialect because I had learned words with a northern pronunciation. I wasn’t the first to get the treatment. This led to my purchasing some of his superb sheep cheeses and prosciutto, they did not last long. The old ladies’ tomatoes were excellent. Hopefully she got plenty of laughs telling her family about the stupid tourist.
Roccascalegna is to the east of the Majella mountains. An old castle on a rugged rock outcrop. I think there are hikes around it and the surrounds. We found a local restaurant, sat outside and soaked up the dolce vita. Did not record the name of the restaurant but the food was local produce, splendid and a good price. My children think it was Civico 20.
On our first day at Carapelle Calvisio whilst walking up to the town’s piazza I greeted a local who stopped to chat. He showed me three large truffles and then gave me the largest and refused to accept payment. At the town tavern I got a beer and the locals wanted to know about me and me about them. On another evening the local priest wandered past for a few words.
I have found that the Italian people respond positively and exceedingly generously if one makes an effort. Most are forgiving if you seem to murder their language. I’ve had lots of practice murdering oxford English.
Few more notes on La Canestra. Was rather difficult to get to, via some tight lanes, signs in Italian and not all that obvious, it was like walking into someone’s back garden. But well worth the effort. My family tells me we had a set price food and Abruzzo wine for €25 per adult, the children free, the food was from the farm and just kept coming and coming.
In Umbria we took a villa, close to Todi, with a swimming pool from 16th to 22nd Sept and were joined by another daughter and son-in-law. This was primarily viewed as vacation time for the children by the pool. Temperatures around 30c, good pool weather. Did drive to Norcia, Lago Trasimeno, Todi and through Barstardo.
Will write some more on Umbria.
Regards
Ron

Posted by
69 posts

Ron, I can't thank you enough for all this valuable information. It's great to hear about your and your family's experience in a place that many people seemingly visit. Glad to hear La Canestra was a good choice! I saw a few Tripadvisor reviews that worried me but it seemed close to perfect to me based on the listing and positive reviews. I am learning Italian (have maybe about 1200 words, can carry a very slow and very basic conversation)--seems like it will come in handy there.

Posted by
407 posts

Thanks Daniel. My daughter-in-law just suggest putting this search into your web browser. Italy unexplored Abruzzo. Should take you to Vincenzo's Plate you tube site. Some good food and highlights of Abruzzo.

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407 posts

Roberto. Grazie MIlle. My pleasure, no too late for me to change occupation. Transitioning to semi retirement. Rick and his mob have it well and truly covered. I particularly enjoy Cameron's writings.

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407 posts

Daniel, you have about 600 words more than me. More on our time in Umbria.
Norcia is not far from Spoleto. Being in the Apennines, has had its fair share of earthquakes, last in 2016. Parts of the city were barriered off and much reconstruction was underway. We had 4 cars and were able to find scattered parking spots within reasonable walking distance of the city gates. Did not take long to walk through the main thorough fare. Is a rather old town and the buildings that have managed to survive the earthquakes seem very old, evidently late middle ages/early renaissance. I think the surrounding countryside is known for truffles. (Obviously I did not make enough notes.) Purchased local cheeses, cured meats and olive oil, of course.
The girls (women to be pc) guided us to a local chocolate factory where we received a personal tour. (Sale pitch I think). Excellent chocolate. Purchased a few kilos, to be consumed over the next week. Drove out of town over a ridge to a grassland area for a picnic. Sheep, some cattle and horses roamed about. My boys took the opportunity to get out their drone for some aerial shots. The local herders were not impressed. I was with the herders. At the end of the plain the little town of Castelluccio was in a bad way having been just about flattened by the 2016 earthquake. Will need a lot of help.
Daniel, Norcia and grassland space may meet your girlfriend’s nature/scenery criteria. I enjoyed my time there.
Largo Trasimeno was a relaxing spot to let the children run around. At San Feliciano had a nice long lunch at a restaurant on the lakes edge. May have had bike or walking tracks around the lake. Not sure.
To me Todi was a highlight of Umbria. Took the funicular, as a treat for the children. Just after we got to the top and into the town a magnificent summer storm struck. Hail, lightening, the full works. The town is gloriously preserved. Wikipedia has an excellent history and pictures. I don’t have the words to compete with the article. Had dinner at Restaurant Umbria. Great views over valley below as the sun set. Staff looked after us exceedingly well. Asked the owner for help selecting a couple of local red wines and a white he recommended from the Veneto. Great choices and he only charged me for 2. The price was in line with what I would expect to pay at home.
Daniel, Todi is definitely worth some time, seems to fit the criteria’s you have listed.
We next took over a villa in Montevarchi in Tuscany from 15th to 21 Sept. Went to all the normal Tuscan delights.
Regards
Ron