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GNV Ferry from Rome (Civitaveccia) to Palermo - not recommended

We had a good experience with a ferry from Civitaveccia to Sardinia, so thought an overnight ferry to Sicily might be fun. HA.

Boarding was fine if a bit chaotic, went straight to the room and that's where it all falls apart - AC was working with the tiniest airflow possible, you couldn't feel from the vent with fingers 6 in away. We had a crew check that this was "normal" and he claimed it was, LOL. On the Sardinia ferry vents blasted cold air (adjustable), was very pleasant. Being as the trip was in July, the room was a stodgy 85+ degrees all night - we slept horribly. My suspicion is that the AC was broken (or simply switched off to save money) for the whole boat, we checked a few other rooms and they all seemed non-existent, same with common areas. Since most Italians are used to heat exhaustion this doesn't seem to be a problem for others.

Ate in the onboard restaurant which was the highlight - great food, nice wine, even the fresh fish looked good from other tables. I'd read some bad reviews, but at least for the sit-down restaurant, was very pleasant.

Unfortunately the ferry arrival was delayed about 3 hours (we had left on time), so our plans of getting early to the hotel were squashed (supposed to be 8:30AM, instead 11:30AM). The rumors we heard were that the previous boat was delayed with visas for people from Africa or something, they couldn't dock until it had cleared out.

Overall the boat has seen better days, quite beat up and dirty. There's just 2 bars so in the morning so lines for a coffee were very long. And despite repeated audible warnings to "not sleep in common areas" we saw probably 30 people sleeping on benches or the ground. Never saw any security.

If the AC had been working, we could've holed up in the room and watched an iPad movie or something, but the hot stale air made you roam, and combined with 3 extra hours onboard... well, we were beat. While waiting to disembark everybody is cranky and fighting. All of a sudden driving 8 hours along the mainland (or flying down) sounded great!

As a comparison, on the way back we did drive, and the Messina ferry to the mainland had organized boarding/disembark, cool AC, a beautiful bar, and overall was a organized, pleasant experience (it's only 20 mins). I personally love ferries and it was unfortunate to have this one go poorly.

Posted by
6901 posts

Thank you for the review ! Another overland option (never done it myself) is the night train; Italian night trains have a variety of accommodations and you get to use one of the few remaining train ferries in the world. For Palermo, I assume it takes about the same time as the ferry, and you avoid the getting to Civitavecchia/embarking/disembarking logistics.

Posted by
3812 posts

I thought 85 degrees F were around 45° C, but it's less than 30!

When you visit a country where locals are "used to heat exhaustion" you are supposed to either adapt or not complain. And yes, you are free to spend your hard-earned dollars somewhere else etc. etc.
Half of southern Europe is burning, but let's forget it's caused by people who have being thinking for decades that they have a god-given right to enjoy 70 degrees all around the world and 365 days a year.

The Italian Department of State ordered the Captain of your ship to stay out of the port for 3 hours. Blaming GNV makes no sense.

This is what happened and that you did not get before writing your review: the rescue center in Lampedusa (for the Geographically impaired: Lampedusa is a small island between Sicily and Africa) was full of refugees who had not finished their quarantine. Therefore, a few hundreds had to be taken to Sicily by ferry.

Your ship was supposed to dock at a pier close to the one used by one of these ferries full of immigrants. Or maybe they were using the pier usually assigned to GNV. In both cases when this happens passengers ships are kept far from the refugees' ships. Since Covid they are kept as far as possible, for obvious reasons. Even before, getting off a ship together with hundreds of angry refugees isn't the best way to start a vacation. How this could become: "was delayed with visas for people from Africa or something," is beyond comprehension. Visas?

In short, you are complaining because there were only two cafes, the ship is old and because Italians don't like to freeze in Summer.

Posted by
15018 posts

Newman.....I've experienced those type of heat issues all over Europe. That's why I carry one of these fans with me. They fit in the palm of your hand. It won't cool down a room, but put it on the nightstand next to you and it will cool the area enough to let you sleep. It takes up no room and weighs very little.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07R2BBZ2B/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

When I first bought one they were $15. They are, I believe, being discontinued, so the cheap price.

Posted by
10196 posts

True Dario that it’s only 30-degrees, but I’m sure his windows didn’t open, making it feel stiflingly. My apartment in the south of France is that temperature today, but all windows are open, shades and awnings keeping the light out. I hope that muffler-less motorcycle doesn’t go flying through the neighborhood past midnight again. I bet you are a lot hotter than that in Italy this week!

Posted by
19 posts

The reasons for the delay were what a crew member and some passengers passed along - it's not GNV's fault, however we got indications from other passengers that it was common. Good to know for tourists planning itineraries.

AC works fine on other ferries in Italy, so it's fair to point out that it doesn't work on this ship - particularly for planning during a heat wave. They specifically advertise rooms as air conditioned. I estimated 85+, it could have been hotter - my wife is Italian and couldn't sleep and I've never seen that. To be honest I could have handled the lack of AC, but the lack of fresh air (all Italians care about that) - a small room with 4 people all breathing the same stale air? With a small bathroom? At least give us a hot sea breeze!

Intended audience is international tourists who potentially care about such details.

Posted by
27122 posts

I have taken the night train from Rome to Catania. Don't do that. The train jerked constantly from side to side, making it impossible to fall asleep. In the past (yes, I was younger then) I was able at least to doze in a couchette, but I got not one wink of sleep on that night train. I assume the issue was the condition of the rails (in which case I don't think a standard sleeping compartment would have been much better) but don't know for sure. Never again.

So I guess flying is the way to go unless one is willing to travel in the daytime.

Edited to add: The train was also at least 3 hours late due to some sort of contruction at the Straits of Messina.

Posted by
3 posts

I have had similar experience, my ferry too was delayed for about 2 hours or more. I was really devastated