Giudecca: How to get to the rest of Venice

You really don't have much choice, do you?

how (in)convenient it would be to have to take a vaporetto just to spend time

yup. pain in the butt.

Some super fancy places like the Hilton Molino provide their own boats but you need to go where they are, when they want to go.

For me it would be too inconvenient.

Invest in a weekly vaporetto pass!

One of the more positive sides of the Giudecca is looking across at St. Marks Square, etc. It’s also much quieter and much less traveled but not so much as to not be interesting. It’s very easy and convenient to catch the vaporettos to the other side. We spent the better part of a day there and found it relaxing, yet interesting to see. Also, San Giorgio is right next door and that is definitely worth a visit. You’ll want a vaporetto pass anyway, so that choice is taken care of.
We are considering a second visit to Venice and will consider staying on the island. One interesting thing there which we did not get to see/ participate in is the weekly vegetable, etc., market from the women’s prison. They have their own gardens and sell the produce. I think it’s still happening.
Also, if you are there at the right time, Homo Faber (The Michelangelo Foundation) sort of takes over the Giorgio Cini Fondazione on San Giorgio Island. Next year I believe it will coincide with Art Biennale.
Personally, I think 2+ weeks on Giudecca would be well worth it.

I'd find it massively frustrating for a stay of more than a very few days unless I was looking for a retreat--to finish writing a book, to paint, etc.

Get the app Chebateo for vaporetto schedules.

Since it's 2+ weeks, it's not too bad assuming you plan a leisurely stay. You will be dependent on the vaporetto. There's a line that will take you right across to the Dorsoduro and another that goes to San Marco - see the map here. It depends on which stops are convenient to where you're staying and how frequent the boats run (and how early/late). The Actv site also has timetables.

Why are you only considering Giudecca and Dorsoduro? What are your requirements?

stayed in giudecca for a week in may this year near the palanca stop. not frustrating or inconvenient at all. the vaporetto's are frequent and multiple lines travel in both directions all day every day. getting to the main island is a breeze. got the weekly pass and it was worth the 70 euro cost. just jumped on and off, made multiple connections, and fixed my mistakes by doubling back. used the avm/actv app and it was perfect for schedules and timetables. went to burano and murano using the same pass. giudecca itself is a quiet retreat from the crowds, charming on its own, and offers lovely views. recommend it highly for a 2+ week visit.

https://topographickitchens.substack.com/p/giudecca-venice-2

Here’s a lot of info about Guidecca, including the women’s prison, where they grow and once a week sell their organic produce.

Why are you only considering Giudecca and Dorsoduro? What are your requirements?

I was in Venice maybe 10 years for only 36 hours. I didn't like San Marco (but I missed the Doge's Palace) except in the early morning. The idea of a Hard Rock Cafe in the vicinity is kind of scandalous, in bad taste, etc.

But I found that, as I recall, I could walk across the canal (Grand Canal??) to the Dorsoduro side. There I found, during the day, the beauty and quiet I had been looking for, in the vicinity of the Accademia. I was speechless in front of the Salute. I vowed to come back and not spend a hurried 36 hours on a group tour.

(I have a graduate degree in art history and am particularly interested in Tintoretto, Titian, Bellini, Palladio...).

I am under the impression that Canneregio or even Castello might be more of the "real" Venice. Dorsoduro has a lively night life near the Campo Santa Marguerita (sp?). I want to be far away from that. But Giudecca seems not to have the same charm as what lies on the other side of the Giudecca Canal in Dorsoduro "proper." From the Youtube videos, it seems almost like a "warehouse" district." But not as working class as San Polo (or is it Santa Croce?).

Anywhere away from tourists and a high concentration of hotels that cater to them would be acceptable.

I'm from Seattle, where the public transportation is quite abomindable, where buses are frequently 30+ minutes late or simply don't appear, which is why I balk at not being able to walk to where I want (even in Rome, sometimes I waited 40 minutes for a bus, which never appeared) and to be at the mercy of public transportation (Paris is good, in this regard).

I did take the vaporetto once or twice. Maybe it's just a question of getting used to having to queue and stand on a small motorized boat for a few minutes.

giudecca itself is a quiet retreat from the crowds, charming on its own, and offers lovely views. recommend it highly for a 2+ week visit.

Thanks. Sounds less gritty and more spread out than the districts near the bus or rail stations.

https://topographickitchens.substack.com/p/giudecca-venice-2
Here’s a lot of info about Guidecca, including the women’s prison, where they grow and once a week sell their organic produce.

Thank you SJ. It's exactly what I was looking for but wasn't able to find by googling on my own.

My other impressions of Venice are based on reading, opera, and film, especially "Don't Look Now," "Summertime," "Death in Venice," "Wings of the Dove." etc.

I would greatly appreciate a post on how long it takes to walk from the Hilton Molino Stucky to the Palanca vaporetto stop. Also, is it a fairly easy walk along a fondamente? THANKS very much!

Denny:
If you are a reader of fiction, perhaps read Donna Leon’s series featuring police Inspector Brunetti.
The books sometimes delve into the grittier and political side of Venice.
Start from the beginning, there are quite a few.
There was a tv series made a long while ago, but only in German, with subtitles in English of people in Italy.
Probably long out of circulation.
The Castello area has few tourists, if you want to walk everywhere.

The Venice site veneziaunica.it has lots of info beyond buying tickets for sites and vaporettos, etc. It has walks that can be taken, plus information on what is happening with the tourist industry in Venice and how to mitigate impact. I will say, I couldn’t get onto the site this morning, but figure it’s temporary.

EDIT: Could access on Chrome but not Firefox or Safari. Sometimes our server is fussy!

Giudecca seems like a good place to base yourself as long as you're willing to depend on the vaporetto to get anywhere else.
It will be much more reliable than most US mass transit. But I think you'll also find what you're looking for in Cannaregio or Castello, without having to rely on the vaporetto as much. Maybe worthile to explore some options there.

Google Maps says the Hilton Molino Stucky is a 6-minute walk from the Palanca vaporetto stop. You'll have to cross two bridges, so there will be some stairs to climb.

I've found Google's walking-time estimates accurate for purposeful walking without luggage; they're based on 20 minutes per mile. They need to be padded if you're sightseeing along the way or pulling a suitcase.

After about 10 days of finding everything I can find on amazon (Rick Steves, Lonely Planet, Blue Guide...), Youtube, blogs on the Web, etc., it seems as though Dorsoduro has mostly hotels of medium quality/price range and above and seems much more art oriented. I like the idea of crossing the canals on the footbridges more than anything. I'm not sure what San Polo or Santa Croce would offer or how they would compare, but I didn't like the Rialto Bridge or much of the Grand Canal (except on vaporetto) or the part facing the Accademia. It is true that I did not venture into Castello or the large northern section of Cannaregio the one time I was here almost ten years ago. I generally stay away from areas near train and/or bus stations in European cities. I like the offbeat but not the gritty. That said, the palazzi along the Grand Canal and elsewhere as well as the churches are so compellingly beautiful. And they don't seem to be as concentrated with tourists (especially the daytrippers from the cruise ships) as the Square in front of the Basilica of San Mark.