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Food?

We have a wonderful itinerary planned for 3 weeks from late March to mid-April, south of Naples for a week, the rest in Tuscany and Liguria [Portovenere]. Although very excited about an early start on warmer weather [we are midwesterners], wonderful scenery, and the great places we've chosen to stay, we are getting more and more concerned about food. We avoid pork, infrequently eat beef or pasta. We are not totally unadventurous "meat and potatoes" folks, but honestly have less than zero interest in the "weirder" things on the Italian menu, like tripe, eels, and raw fish. By the same token, we don't want to be limited to "touristy" pizza joints. Given the choice, we'd go for a salad, a slab of salmon or a chicken breast, and a delicious wine, but even if something like that would be available, could we find it on the menu? Not to mention that our timing isn't exactly in the heart of salad season . Are we going to be able to "work around" Italian cuisine? I dream of SEEing Italy, just worried that it might be hard to EAT there. Thoughts? [Especially if you've been in the same boat]

Posted by
16494 posts

Tripe, eels, and raw fish are actually very rare items in Italian restaurants’ menu. There might be some restaurants in Naples that serve raw seafood but not really common. Have you ever visited Italy or even just read anything about Italy and its cuisine before? I don’t know where you got those ideas. I’ve never seen eel at a restaurant in Italy in my life. And no, you will also find no spaghetti and meatballs in Italy. That is strictly an Italian American dish that is available only in the US. Salmon also is not really so frequent in Italy as it is generally imported from Norway. Salmon is not a Mediterranean fish. I suggest that you Google “typical dishes of (area name)” and see what comes up. Or you can go to Google Maps click on some restaurants in the cities where you are going and look at their menu which will come up. You can do the same on TripAdvisor or The Fork. You actually appear to be the typical unadventurous meat and potatoes midwesterner (I have had plenty of colleagues like you in the past from out Midwest offices) but don’t despair. All the places you mention have McDonald’s. Portovenere is the only exception but if you can eat (cooked) seafood and fish, there are plenty of restaurants in Portovenere that serve that. Fish and seafood of all types is their specialty.

Posted by
757 posts

"Italian cuisine" is a lot more than pizza and pasta. You have three months to research the cuisines of Liguria, Tuscany and Naples. Watch some Anthony Bourdain and Stanley Tucci.

Posted by
2156 posts

Roberto’s advice is excellent. We have made several trips to Italy over the years and one of us falls into your category. You will be fine. As Roberto notes, our idea of Italian American food is quite different from the real thing in Italy. I was very happy to discover that Italian cuisine was dedicated to a few excellent ingredients well prepared. Mountains of cheese and quarts of sauce were non existent. Vegetable dishes and salads have always been available and likely will be ordered as separate dishes, i.e., not necessarily included in a meal order as we may be accustomed to in our restaurants here at home. We’ve enjoyed broiled or grilled fish, just maybe not salmon. I’d suggest you learn a few phrases describing the simpler foods you prefer. We have been treated with much patience and kindness and I suspect the servers will strive to ensure you enjoy your meal. And while sharing dishes isn’t as common as here, nor should you feel obligated that each diner order antipasti, entrees, sides, desserts. I think you’ll be pleasantly surprised. These have been our experiences over the years. Safe travels and Buon appetito!

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8447 posts

I would agree with others, do some research, search for things like "Typical cuisine of XXX" whether it be Liguria, Tuscany, Naples, and Campania.

I would not rule out pasta entirely, you may not eat much, but you likely have been exposed to poor options. Trofie with Pesto in Liguria is way different than any pasta you have had. For seafood, do be prepared for more "small fish" like grilled anchovies, or whole grilled fish, but most places offer a fillet of larger fish, just maybe not Salmon. In Tuscany you will find heartier fare, grilled meats, chicken is more common, vegetables. I can't really think of any "weird" Italian dishes, except maybe calf's liver, the rare offering of horse, and if you are adverse to things like calamari, squid, and cuttlefish. Not sure if any Italians eat raw fish, maybe marinated anchovies or shellfish like oysters, scallops or clams.

When all else fails, there are plenty of other things to eat other than "Italian food".

Posted by
8926 posts

Antipasti buffets are common with artichokes, olives, charcuterie, and assorted vegetable things. I have never seen raw fish on an Italian menu. Pasta is the primi menu but the secondi will be chicken, fish, beef, pork etc. Take a look at some menus for restaurants in places you are going to see what is available.

At our favorite florentine restaurant we started with an amazing vegetable soup, and then I had Roast pigeon. The second time the fabulous vegetable soup was done so I had a tortellini en Brodo which turned out to be really tasty and a roast pork. There were a couple of fish dishes on the menu.

Look at some menus. And FWIW. Pizza is not necessarily found at 'touristy' places. We were well out of the center in areas where most diners were locals and the pizza was fantastic. Italian style pizza which is thin crust and not as goopy as US pizza is often quite excellent. I love '4 seasons' which involves artichokes ,ham or prociutto, mushrooms and olives and often an egg.

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1722 posts

You will likely see branzino as a fish option on many menus. Branzino is European sea bass. It's a mild white fish and not to be confused with Chilean sea bass. If you like salmon you'll probably like branzino.

Posted by
1550 posts

Braciole. Branzino. Cavallo (be careful with this one; it's horsemeat, but it can be delicious.) Coniglio (rabbit). Focaccia. Shellfish of all sorts, and many different finfish you won't be familiar with but that will be delicious. Polpo (octopus). Lots of succulent foods that won't be exactly what you're accustomed to eating but that you'll love. Pizza is terrific everywhere.

I personally don't understand going to Italy and not enjoying the many delicious pastas on offer, but you won't go hungry regardless. Pasta in Italy is not like pasta in the US. It's so much better.

Posted by
1704 posts

Pretending to be you, I went to Tripadvisor and Google Maps to see where I would eat in Portvenere --- that was the only specific town you mention.

Actually, I would have a harder time than you will because I really, really don't like any seafood. But I quickly found a place I would love to eat: Anciùa Ligurian Street Food.

Take a look: https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g194862-d6990575-Reviews-Anciua_Ligurian_Street_Food-Porto_Venere_Italian_Riviera_Liguria.html#/media/6990575/?albumid=-184&type=ALL_INCLUDING_RESTRICTED&category=-184

You can see the menu and much of it has English translations (which used to be a small warning sign of a tourist restaurant but now is often just fine). You can see photos of the food and the inside of the restaurant and read people's reviews. The way to use Tripadvisor or Google Maps is not to BELIEVE their ratings, but to USE the information and photos and menus to find the kind of place you want. I limited my search to lunch, local food, vegetarian-friendly, and a rating above 4 (ideally closer to 4.5). I'd love to be able to include "not at all fancy," but I can judge by the photos. Sometimes I can use "family friendly" to eliminate the fancier restaurants.

You will see foods on the menu that you have never heard of --- this does not mean they will be tripe or eels or horse meat. For instance, one of my favorite things to eat in Liguria is "Torta Salata" --- you might think it was salty cake, but instead it's a delicious thin tart or savory pie, often made with finely chopped vegetables.

So, try this for every town you are staying in --- we normally pick out where we are likely to want to eat long before we travel to anywhere in Italy. I think this will relieve your worries.

Also, know that a server can tell you the ingredients in a particular dish --- I am not crazy about either mushrooms or truffles, so I ask.

If you like cheese, it is pretty normal for there to be a cheese platter on a restaurant's antipasti menu, but if all you see is a cheese and cured meats platter, you can ask for all cheese. I love it when the cheese slices come with fruit "jam" or honey --- not what American eat with cheese, but really, really yummy. I could go on and on about all the wonderful food in Italy. My guess is that you have never had excellent hand-made pasta where you live, since in 70 years I haven't either except when my husband rolls his own.

Posted by
32430 posts

Hopefully you'll decide to broaden your horizons and try some of the various foods in Italy, as it's some of the best you'll find anywhere. I also tend to prefer fish or poultry, but try to be flexible when I'm travelling as for me that adds to the experience. One of my absolute favourite dishes in Liguria is Trofie al Pesto, and that's always my first meal when I arrive back in that area.

Posted by
2157 posts

I would not worry. The choices will be...incredible, and something for everyone. And I have a feeling that once you try pasta in Italy...you're going to want it all the time. It's that good.

We're Midwesterners like you, and will be knocking around Italy same time as you--first half of April--with two of our previous trips being even earlier, in late February. And still...the markets & ristorantes even that time of year find a way to obtain the best fruit & vegetables from the southern climes like Basilicata (strawberries!) & Sicily (blood oranges!). Insalata across the board will be tremendous. And the local specialties, such as artichokes in Rome, or their puntarelle (chicory) salad, are not to be missed. And in Tuscany...at least try the cinghiale (wild boar). It's like the best pot roast you've ever tasted...

But I will warn you...as I am warning myself...not to overstuff yourself, which is almost impossible to do over there. I'm finding that as I age, if I overeat at a restaurant, I'm uncomfortable for hours. Over our trips, we have learned by staying near an open air market, like Rome's Campo de' Fiori. I shop very early for fruit and maybe stop at a bakery for a little pastry to bring back. Lunch is a 'take-away' pizza slice or panini, then a nice, leisurely dinner around 8:00, stopping for gelato on the way back to the AirBnB. And even if scaling back--not 3 meals a day eating out--their food is tempting at every turn. Thus, I'm making a pact with myself not to let my 'eyes be bigger than my stomach', and split primo or secondi courses with my wife or cousins. And trust me, this is going to be easier said than done.

Posted by
2180 posts

South of Naples we has wonderful seafood most everywhere. Grilled vegetables and salads are on most restaurant menus. The conditori course often includes spinach or chicory. Most pizza places are not tourist places. I’ve shared many a delicious Margarita pizza for under €10 for a quick easy dinner.

Posted by
5687 posts

I don't think you'll find this a problem, but as a mostly vegetarian who is fairly food-obsessed, I find regional cookbooks a valuable part of my trip research. You have to understand seasonality to eat well (really anywhere IMO, but especially in Italy). Case in point: Greens are a cold weather crop--early spring should be marvelous for salads! Think of other spring veg and you can imagine how they will show up--a risotto with peas for example.
Share your locations for some more fun feedback.
Nowadays, we use our phones, but in the old days, we carried a "Marling Menu Master"--a wee pamphlet containing translations of common items.

Posted by
16494 posts

As comedian Jeff Foxworthy would say:

"If you define Italian food as "weird" and go to Italy to eat only pizza, chicken breast, and salad, you may be...an unadventurous "meat and potato" folk"

Posted by
56 posts

Thanks for all the thoughtful, informative responses and great tips! Especially relieved to hear that spring greens will be in their glory!

We haven't eaten at McDonalds in well over half a century, and are by no means unadventurous in our many travels; we just haven't been to Italy yet and were feeling a little put off by some of the menu items we'd spotted in an admittedly cursory glance at RS's "Italy for Food Lovers" and some Florence restaurant menus. Should have made clear that we eat considerably healthier than the stereotypical Midwestern fare, and "unfamiliar" would definitely have been a better and more accurate term than "weird" when describing our [now, clearly unfounded] concerns about Italian cuisine.... that being said, some of the good advice would have gone down better without the unnecessary "pesto di condiscendenza"

Valadelphia: our other locales will be Siena, Pienza, and Agropoli [south of Salerno], if you [or others] would like to weigh in with specifics about food [or wine--- not too sweet, not too dry, not to pricey] in those places. Thanks in advance, if so.

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5687 posts

I have stayed near Agropoli and if you happen to make it as far as Marina di Pisciotta, we had a wonderful meal at Angiolina. This is a fantastic area, especially for seafood fans of course, as anchovies are a specialty. I was checking the TA review page to make sure they are still around and I do see some potentially raw items, but these are not difficult to avoid--look for crudo on the menu.
The many buffalo mozzarella farms in the area make that something to look for. In Pisciotta, it had a delivery day and eating it at the sink with it dropping down our faces is a fave memory!
I did not think you came off as unreasonable at all, just feeling out what to expect. We have only come across something we did not want to eat once (it was raw shrimp, which I understand is common, but we're from the southeastern US and just could not--but we did chow down on some tiny baby shrimp that were probably raw this time around. We seek out this kind of thing though, and you pretty much have to work for it more than avoid it).

Posted by
540 posts

Honestly, I think you’re overthinking it.

You’ll find lots of options. You’ll find American menus. You’ll often find servers who speak impeccable English. And wine is cheap and very solid. Even splurge-y wines don’t carry the restaurant markup you’re accustomed to.

Food and culture are inexorably linked, so I do hope you try to expand out of your comfort zone and eat “local”. Some of my best culinary experiences have been when I did so. But either way, you’ll have a great trip and generally great food.

Posted by
1550 posts

"pesto di condiscendenza"

That's a classic! Bravo.

I'm confident you'll find plenty of Italian dishes to your liking. Buon appetito!

Posted by
739 posts

I’m a pescetarian/mostly vegetarian and I have NEVER had a problem finding a meal in Italy. Now, I love pasta. As other posters have said, pasta truly is different in Italy. Usually handmade, it is lighter and easier to digest, plus the serving is reasonable and not piled high like here, nor drowned in a cheese heavy sauce. They are generally lightly sauced and there may not be cheese in sight. You’ll walk off any pasta meal you have so weight gain is hardly a consideration!
Also agree that menus have fish, chicken and yes, pork or possibly beef. Lots of pork in many variations. So since you try to avoid pork, try to memorize all the words for different pork offerings. Crudo is one that generally trips me up. I think vegetables, but it is pork. You will see beef tartare although it is manzo crude. Also raw tuna, but not often. Any carpaccios you find are usually meat.
Wine-it’s ALL good. Rarely sweet except for Lambruscos, but they are entirely different than what we have here-and good. Always try the wine from the area. There are usually at least 3-4 on menus just ask for a local (locale) wine. Yum!
And salads are served. Other than an insalata mista, they are very often entree salads with chicken or tuna or maybe another protein. Acciughe (anchovies) are everywhere and in/on many things.
Pizza-absolutely do NOT pass on pizza. Because most dough is ‘fermented’ for 24-48 hours, it is much easier to digest. As mentioned, toppings are light and cheese is just enough if they even use any.
As many recommended look at Google Maps, search restaurants (and other eating venues) and I think you will find many that offer exactly what you’re looking for and will have a surprise or two you weren’t looking for.
An important aside-reservations if they take them. Stop by at lunch (pranzo) and make a reservation for that night or next or? Both the establishment and you will be glad you did. Buon appetito!

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739 posts

Oops on crudo. Raw pork? Not on any menu anywhere! Crudo is most likely raw beef!

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583 posts

Crudo is one that generally trips me up. I think vegetables, but it is pork.

No, it isn't! Raw pork meat could transmit some deseases, so cannot be served raw. Like chicken meat, that is very dangerous if not cooked.
Beef can be served raw, but even fish. Is a modern way to eat it, not really traditional for Italy. My personal suggestion: eat raw flesh only in good restaurants.

Posted by
1550 posts

Prosciutto crudo most certainly is uncooked, cured pork. It's odd that someone from Italy would suggest otherwise, especially one living in Emilia-Romagna, the home of Prosciutto di Parma.

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28929 posts

One thing to be aware of when you order a salad in Italy: Very often (I think most of the time) it will be served with separate cruets of olive oil and vinegar. In effect, you mix your own dressing by pouring what you want over your salad. For those of us who grew up pouring a pre-mixed dressing onto a salad, this can be disconcerting, because we don't know how to get the proportions right.

I'm sure you'll be pleasantly surprised by the options you see, but it's true that menus in some coastal towns can be very seafood-centric--just as they can be meat-heavy when you're inland.

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265 posts

We ate in a seafood restaurant in Fiumencino where they specialized in “shellfish crudo”, 4-5 different kinds of shrimp and langoustine creatures all served raw. It really was no different from sashimi, but US restaurants rarely serve raw shrimp as sushi or sashimi, so the first bites were apprehensive but it tasted really good. But if you don’t eat sushi/sashimi at home you should probably steer away from “crudo” in an Italian seafood restaurant.

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154 posts

@Ricky-“ No, it isn't! Raw pork meat could transmit some deseases, so cannot be served raw. Like chicken meat, that is very dangerous if not cooked.
Beef can be served raw, but even fish. Is a modern way to eat it, not really traditional for Italy”

You live in Modena and don’t know that prosciutto crudo is raw, uncooked, incited pork? Ahem, some food touristic guide you are! By the way nobody is eating raw chicken. Raw beef, such as beef tartare, is delicious and very nice if done correctly. There are many places in southern Italy that serve cured fish, such as anchovy or sardines, that might be considered raw but that’s about it. “no raw pork in Italy”. Also bresaola is raw beef, cured, but still raw.

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16494 posts

Prosciutto is not really “raw”. Yes, it is not cooked but it is subject to a transformation process involving salting and seasoning for several months. It’s like jerk meat.

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1550 posts

I thought the definition of raw is "uncooked." Prosciutto crudo absolutely is raw. The curing process involves salt and fermentation, which prevents harmful bacteria from thriving in the meat.

Those who enjoy charcuterie should be aware that very few of the salames and other dry sausages will be cooked. They are also cured with salts and associated additives.

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16494 posts

Uncooked it is. But cured and seasoned for months, therefore safe to eat unlike eating uncooked roadkill right after hitting it on the freeway.

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6705 posts

Roberto da Firenze, you made me laugh:

cured and seasoned for months, therefore safe to eat unlike eating uncooked roadkill right after hitting it on the freeway.

I may say that when my uncle hit a deer on the highway, he was able to claim it. It was delicious, but we did cook it first.

Some of my most memorable meals in Italy have been fish and vegetables. Grilled branzino is incredible, and I had the best spinach I've ever tasted in Florence last year. Very fresh, sautéed lightly in olive oil with a bit of garlic... Oh, goodness, it was so good.

My husband and I seldom eat meat here at home, and never had a problem finding delicious meals in Italy.

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1550 posts

safe to eat unlike eating uncooked roadkill

Certainly I'd never expect Italian restaurants to serve me roadkill carpaccio. But horsemeat (cavallo) is quite popular in many Italian regions.

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1330 posts

In Maiori, southern Italy, I had the best Eggplant Parmesan I’ve ever eaten. In Verona, we had wonderful potato gnocchi but stayed away from the horse and donkey stews although people said they were quite tasty, too far out of my comfort zone. We aren’t talking Pizza Hut in Italy. In Rome its thin crust, in Naples thicker but only a few toppings. The Italian tomato sauce is so flavorful as is the buffalo mozzarella, together on a pizza is heaven. Tuscany has steak Florentino, grilled rare over hot coals. Get just a tad out of your comfort zone because the food is sooooo good! Oh and the grilled artichokes if in season…..

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8926 posts

An Italian menu has a second for primi which is a first main course of rissoto or pasta. and secondi which are meat and fish courses. So a meat and potatoes person would have no trouble skipping over the pasta and ordering a meat dish. We are big fans of European pork which is far better and tastier than American pork (the other white meat -- which is bread to be lean, dry and tasteless). but there will be chicken or other fowl as well as beef dishes and fish dishes in this part of the menu. There are tripe dishes but you don't have to order them, they are not going to dominate the menu. Last fall we were in Florence for a couple of weeks and walked by a tripe sandwich stand in the parking lot by Porta Romana -- lots of customers, but not us.

We generally get a soup or antipasti and one main dish of either pasta or meat. In many restaurants there is a buffet of antipasti that lets you select your plate of first course. There are some Florentine very expensive restaurants with menus that don't appeal to us and so we don't go to those -- but getting roasted meats is very easy in most restaurants.. And Italian pizza is simply terrific. Thin crusts, less goopy and saucy than US pizza and with lovely toppings. My favorite is 4 seasons which is usually artichoke, prociutto, mushrooms and olives.

Be aware that outside of Rome you will pay coperto or a cover charge per person and this quickly inflates the bill when you have a large group. There are cafeteria type restaurants where this is not the case. They can be a good choice for lunch and often have very nice seating areas. We ate in one at San Marco after touring the San Marco museum last trip (wonderful museum only open mornings. IMHO a must for Florence. It is the monastery where Savanarola held sway and where Fra Angelico painted contemplative frescoes in each monk's cell.

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8926 posts

PS. raw pork is served in Europe -- in Italy is is prociutto, in Germany it is speck which is not particularly cured and so just pretty much straight up raw pork. Because I was warned from toddlerhood that raw pork is dangerous, I just avoided it when I lived there as a teen and now -- plus I don't like the texture of raw fish or raw uncured meats like speck. BUT it is definitley served. I was told that they have better trichinosis control in pig raising in europe and thus it is safe.

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340 posts

raw pork is served in Europe -- in Italy is is prociutto, in Germany it is speck which is not particularly cured and so just pretty much straight up raw pork.

Actually, Speck is seasoned for about 3 weeks, smoked, and then cured for about 22 weeks, so no, it is not just raw pork. Prosciutto is cured for an even longer period. So while it may technically be raw, as in not cooked with heat, it's not at all like buying a pork chop and eating it as is. Cured pork is safe to eat, fresh raw pork is not, which is why nobody serves it.

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16494 posts

Un cavallo non è un maiale (a horse is not a pig).

Yes, you can have carpaccio (raw meat) made of beef, and also of horsemeat, but the Carpaccio di Lonza di Maiale (pork loin carpaccio) actually require some cooking first.