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Florence to Santa Margherita Ligure

What’s the best way to get from Florence to Santa Margherita Ligure? I see a lot of train transfers at La Spezia and am nervous about crowds since we will be traveling mid-day on a Friday in September. We’re going here instead of Cinque Terre to avoid crowds, so hoping to avoid passing through the area altogether if possible. If my understanding of the crowds for the train at La Spezia is incorrect, please let me know!

Posted by
2042 posts

The main problem is that the train to SM from Florence will be the train "to Cinque Terre" even if you are riding it past there. I had to change trains and rode it briefly on the way to Pietrasanta in September of 2024 and the train was packed full of people (presumably) all heading to CT. Getting on part way through the trip and I had to stand in the crowded doorway area for the few minutes I was on the train since my stop was well before La Spezia. I see a 10:28 train that changes in Pisa and continues all the way to SM but even if doesn't stop in La Spezia it will be packed people getting off there.

I can't speak to whether or not you will find it crowded but crowds in train stations tend to be temporary since people tend to be moving onto another train or out into the city. You could go early to (hopefully) avoid crowds and you could also look at the gap between trains and if it is more than a few minutes you could go outside and wait it out before heading back to meet your train.
On the Friday in September I'm looking at I see an 8:28 that goes past La Spezia and onto Chiavari where you transfer to SM. And then you'll have to schedule your trip back.

The ugly reality is anything on the coast north of Pisa is going to be caught up in the coastal summer crowds and the tourist crush of CT. If you really want to avoid these crowds you'll either need to look in other directions or other modes of travel. You could look into booking a tour with a company that provides transportation or just a dedicated NCC driver but neither of these will be cheap. I know there a few buses that do the coast but unfortunately I think La Spezia is a prime hub for changing and you're back at the same spot.

If you really want to go hopefully there is a coastal bus service that I don't know about. And the last thing I will say is that whatever way you go it will be 3+ hours to get there and, for me, that is generally beyond the limit I would set for a daytrip. The trip with someone driving is way more relaxing but 6+ hours of travel for one day is a lot.

Have a great trip whatever you decide,
=Tod

Posted by
18173 posts

Ditto to what hiredman has said: you're going to go through the CT region from Florence any way you shake it: you'll change trains in either La Spezia or Pisa, maybe both, or Pisa + Chiavari, depending on which departure time/length of journey you prefer. Actually, the Florence + Pisa + Chiavari route would have you avoiding La Spezia but doesn't leave Florence until 13:28, and is 2 train changes versus 1 but, well, it's an option.

As you say you're traveling mid-day, I'm guessing that Santa Margherita Ligure is your final destination for an overnight (or longer) stay and not a day trip? It really is a bit too far for a RT in one day.

Posted by
2 posts

Thank you both! To clarify, this is not a day trip. We’ll be staying in Santa Margherita Ligure for a few days.

Posted by
250 posts

If you really want to avoid the likely crowded train running through all five towns of the Cinque Terre, you might consider taking a train from Florence to Genoa Principe. From there, there are two or three trains per hour to Santa Margherita Ligure, running 45-60 minutes. It’s also a very scenic route hugging the coast. It may take a little longer, but not much.

Posted by
3892 posts

Taking the train from Florence to Genoa and than back tracking to Santa Margherita makes no sense. Most trains that go up the coast to Genoa actually stop there.

My suggestion to avoid the CT crowds is to do this:
- Travel from Firenze to Pisa or La Spezia on a regional train. These are frequent, and mid day will not be to crowded.
- Travel from there to SML on an IC service. These trains have reserved seating, and will not be overcrowded.

See www.trenitalia.it. Look up Firenze (tutte le stazion) to Santa Margarita Ligure - Portofino and select a solution with one change, and the second train an IC service.

My choice would be the 12:28 departure as that one has you change in Pisa, and thus has you on IC trains for most of the route.

Posted by
2042 posts

If you are transferring to SM and not day tripping the options are better but it also makes sense to minimize your transfers with luggage.

Assuming the options are the same as the ones I'm looking at for an afternoon in September I'd take the 12:28 Firenze S. M. Novella > 15:44 S. Margherita Ligure-Portofino with one change in Pisa.
The Intercity from Pisa to SM starts in Livorno before stopping in Pisa so I don't know how busy it will be. I could be filled with cruise ship people trying to get to CT if ships are docked but it seems late for them to be getting out. Maybe someone with more experience with this train can say. [Edit: Since it is an Intercity train you will get an assigned seat and can even choose 1st class to avoid the crowds more] on the Pisa train you'll stay there past La Spezia and all the way into SM. The train will probably be crowded but will empty out a lot at La Spezia.

Technically you could also fast train to Milan and take the train from Milan to SM, but it will take at least an hour longer and I'm not sure trading La Spezia for MIlan is a reduction in crowds but more about scale. But that route does skip La Spezia. There is a 09:55 FSM to 14:16 SM 4h 21min that has one change. I've done the Milan train and the sea view coming down the coast is nice but the train did seem long.

That area of the coastline deserves to be explored. There are great little towns between SM and Levanto with the easy train running between them at a couple minutes a town.

Have a great trip,
=Tod

Posted by
17803 posts

If you don’t mind waking up early for an early departure, and if you don’t mind taking a 10-15 min taxi ride to Firenze Campo di Marte station, to me the fastest way, which also avoids stops at the Cinque Terre villages, is the high speed FrecciaArgento departing from FIRENZE CAMPO DI MARTE station at 7:54am. These are the details:

FRECCIARGENTO 8588
departs FIRENZE CAMPO DI MARTE at 7:54
arrives LA SPEZIA CENTRALE at 9:37

REGIONALE VELOCE (=fast regionale) 3261
departs LA SPEZIA CENTRALE at 9:57
arrives S.MARGHERITA-PORTOFINO at 10:57
(this regionale veloce does not stop at any of the 5 Cinque Terre villages, therefore less likely to be mobbed by Cruiseders going to the CT)

Posted by
3892 posts

But assuming you grab a seat - Intercity do not have reserved seats or
classes -

That is incorrect. IC trains have 1st and 2nd class, and compulsory reservation, which is why you are not going to have an issue with crowds or not finding a seat. That makes it a good option from Pisa to Santa Margerita Ligure

Posted by
2042 posts

Thanks @WengenK for the correction. I thought this was the case - I've only used them once or twice - but the Trenitalia site was not showing me options for 1st class when I checked "Altre offerte", but it is now. I was going to suggest 1st class as way to avoid crowds but I didn't see it as an option.
I'll edit my post accordingly.

=Tod