Florence recap, 10 days in early January

So much help in trip planning from this forum, so here’s a recap of our recent trip:
Rented an apartment near Santa Croce (My Florence Home through VRBO) - excellent and affordable, comfortable and convenient. We were glad to be a bit out of the way, though less than 10 minute walk to Duomo and the river and bridges to cross it. Shopped at Sant’Ambrogio market and shops in neighborhood streets for easy at-home meals.
Great meals: Culinaria de Gustibus near the Brancacci (outstanding regional cuisine and wine in a modern and charming space) 5 e Cinque ( between Pitti Palace and Santo Spirito) - delicious cecci (chickpea pancake bread) and Genoan vegetarian dishes. Il Pizzauolo and Bistrot Gilda near Piazza de Sant’Ambrogio and the remarkable Teatro del Sale - members only, but anyone can join for 7€ - members gather at 7 pm on event nights, pay admission ( a bargain for the quantity and quality of food) help themselves to wine, find a small table for 2 or join a large table and wait for the chefs to announce dishes as they are ready; kitchen is along one wall so you watch “theater” as they cook. Huge buffet with multiple courses - hot and cold vegetables, then polenta, then seafood, then soup, then meats, interspersed with regular calls to come get hot salted breadsticks. Dessert buffet in the lobby while they move tables and set up for concert or performance. We understood almost nothing, and had a blast.
Great finds: the cafeterias (views of Duomo! Wonderful affordable lunches with wine!) on top floors of public library just East of Duomo on via d. L’Oriuolo and at Ospedale degli Innocenti (Museum of orphanage from 1400s - with records and mementoes of individual children). Both these cafes had outdoor spaces, too - the library cafe has a beautiful courtyard and also offers a 10€ drink-and-buffet in the evenings.
Great walks and quiet spots - along Arno, both sides, especially near dusk. It takes about 10 minutes to leave crowds behind and find yourself in ordinary neighborhoods with parks, shore birds, kayaks and sculls on the river. City rose garden about halfway up the stairs to piazzale Michaelangelo - lovely views of Duomo and city framed by trees and roses, sculpture - and no crowds. Walk west from piazzale along via di Belvedere (old city walls) or higher up, west from San Miniatao. Lovely green neighborhoods and parks. Courtyard behind Santa Croce (on the way to leather school entrance) is quiet and secluded. The shops, offices, cafe in an old jail along via Dell’Agnolo were interesting.
Ospedale degli Innocenti, near David at the Accademia, was a highlight, and gave us a view of the Renaissance on a very human scale. Run by the silk weavers guild, they took in and cared for 4 centuries of babies and children - the stories and mementoes are on such a small scale in a city that shows us the grand scale of the ideas and history of the Renaissance.
Ponte Vecchio is a madhouse to cross - best viewed from any other bridge or from the walk in the Altrarno between Ponte alla Grazie and Ponte Santa Trinity.
Hadn’t expected to, but spent hours wandering Boboli Gardens, explored side paths away from crowds and were rewarded with peace and quiet and unexpected vistas.
Galileo Museum was fascinating and uncrowded.
Poked our heads into nearly every church and church courtyard and garden we passed.
The Duomo is beautiful at night, front and back. Plaza behind it is less crowded during the day, deserted at night. The Duomo Museum here is way better than the inside of the church itself. When you buy your ticket, you’ll be asked if you want to reserve a climb for Campanile or Duomo - good idea to reserve even if you’re not sure.
Favorite Day: bus to Fiesole from plaza at San Marco, winds uphill through neighborhoods and lets you off at plaza. Roman and Etruscan ruins, tourist center (limited days/hours and hard to find on a side street). Climbed Monte Ceceri (gorgeous park) where DaVinci experimented with flight.