Please sign in to post.

Florence in November - Trip Report Part One (Part Two in the comments)

We just recently spent 4 nights in Florence (actually 5 - more on that below) — traveling there by train from Genoa and before our departure by train to Bologna. I will share what I suspect will be controversial opinions about our stay, but first the good things (in a lot of detail that I hope will be helpful):

  • We stayed at the Guest House Morandi, a cozy small hotel about a 15 minute walk from the Duomo and a 5 minute walk to the Academie, where Michelangelo’s David is housed, and 5 minutes from the Museo San Marco. This is not a traditional hotel - there are only 12 rooms and a small but nicely appointed reception area that is only staffed during the day, 9-5. Rooms have small fridges stocked with free bottled water and there is complementary espresso via a pod machine in the lobby.

  • Our host Dario was incredibly accommodating - giving us his personal cell phone number if we needed anything after hours and going over a map with recommendations for restaurants and places to see. After we had checked out and were walking around for a bit before our train (we had left our luggage at the hotel), my husband had a migraine that manifested as extreme vertigo. Dario was very helpful booking us back into a room, and getting information if we needed to call a doctor (they make house calls in Italy). This was our unplanned fifth night in Florence - I changed our train tickets and my husband felt better, so we traveled to Bologna the next day.

  • If you decide to stay there and are booking a double room, room #1 is on the small side, facing the street which is mostly quiet though the students at the nearby school are rather chatty in the afternoon when classes let out. It faces the back of the Archeological Museum, which isn’t much of a view but is very private, as there are no windows across the street. Room #9 is more nicely appointed and larger, with a more spacious bathroom. The window faces an interior air-well and directly across is the window to another guest room, so less privacy. The reception area also has a window on the air-well and the light is on all night long, so if darkness is important for your sleep, that’s something to consider.

  • The Duomo is so large, it defies description. It’s like when you first see the Grand Canyon and it’s more vast than you could imagine. I bought advance tickets that allowed us to skip the very long line to get in. Advance tickets enter near the crypt door which is on the side of the cathedral where the campanile (bell tower is). The inside is interesting but it’s the outside that will knock your socks off.

  • If you are traveling to Florence before the end of January 2026, DO NOT MISS the Fra Angelico (Beato Angelico in Italian) exhibit at the Palazzo Strozzi. It is the first time so many of his works are assembled together from museums all over the world (apparently many of the multi-part altar pieces were looted by the Napoleonic army and sold and re-sold over the years). It is truly phenomenal exhibit. I would recommend getting advance tickets.

  • We had some good meals but the blocks around the Duomo are all going to be touristy and overpriced. We had a very good meal at Ristorante Natalino, which is about a 10 minute walk from where we stayed.

  • We had truly memorable meals at Il Latini (a big splurge, but the best steak either of us have ever had - not Beefsteak Fiorentina but rather a Chianina T-bone steak for two which was on the specials menu, very tender and flavorful) and at Casa Ciabattini, a small and modern restaurant with a fresh take on traditional Tuscan cooking.

Posted by
979 posts

Thanks for this. If you have the time, would you post some of your impressions of Genoa? Thanks!!

Posted by
9 posts

Here’s Part Two

  • The most frustrating thing for me as a visitor to Italy is the fact that you can’t hail a taxi on the street. While your hotel or restaurant is always happy to call one for you (and the cab always takes only a couple minutes to arrive) if you are not a fluent Italian speaker and not at a hotel or restaurant, calling one yourself is near impossible. A solution should be the taxi app that is promoted on every free tourist map. However, its user interface is not great, the Florentine address system is, pardon my Italian, completely nuts, and the “my location” function is usually wrong. I did figure out a successful workaround. Pick the nearest restaurant or shop where you can Google the address and use that address for your pickup location. When the app asks what color the number is, choose red (businesses have red address numbers even if you don’t see a red number on the actual building).

  • Now for the really controversial bit, unless you are a scholar of obscure renaissance Italian painters or you absolutely have to have a selfie with Boticelli’s Birth of Venus, you can skip the Uffizi. Yes, I said it - I found the Uffizi to be underwhelming. It is hot, crowded, and the vast majority of art is by painters you won’t have heard of and will soon forget. It is in the process of remodeling, and even the map of galleries on its own website is totally inaccurate. There is only one Michelangelo on display, and just a small handful of other masters. The downstairs was roped off so you can’t wander from gallery to gallery, you could only get there if you went all the way through the huge upstairs and then came back down, which I personally found very irritating. It’s a museum, not IKEA. Oh, and the ladies restroom was disgusting - no seats on the toilets, just a porcelain bowl and generally gross overall.

  • I know there are a lot of folks on this site and others who disdain using an aggregator site to buy train tickets, but I used Trainline when I bought tickets in advance of our trip and have been very happy with my choice. You can search Trenitalia high speed and local trains and Italo all in one place, the interface is in English so you can search either English or Italian names for cities, and you can easily view your travel in the Trainline app including to-the-minute delay information. It’s also easy to add the tickets to your Apple wallet. Yes, they charge a small fee of a few dollars per ticket, but it was incredibly easy to change (and change again) our tickets when my husband wasn’t feeling well.

  • And for my last controversial opinion: Bologna is more beautiful than Florence. But to get my rationale on that, you’ll have to read my Bologna trip report in a few days.

Ciao, ragazzi!

Posted by
17167 posts

...you can’t hail a taxi on the street

You can. There is no rule or law to prohibit it (confirmed by taxi drivers I know).
It's just that they are unlikely to stop for you. It's not a common practice for people to hail traveling taxicabs, so the ones you see are either carrying already a passenger somewhere, or are on their way to pick up a passenger to whom they've been dispatched. When they are idle with no passengers, they just park at a taxi stand. At $8/ gallon taxicabs don't want to waste fuel just to drive around in hope that someone might hail them.

the Florentine address system is, pardon my Italian, completely nuts

It has its logic. And it's determined by the Arno river and the water flow of the river.
The Arno river flows from East to West. So streets that are parallel to the river, have the numeration progressing from East to West (even numbers, 2-4-6..., on the right and odd numbers 1-3-5...., on the left). For streets that are perpendicular to the river, the numbers progress as you move farther away from the river.
For Piazzas, if the piazza is on the right bank of the river, numbers progress clockwise (1-2-3....without distinction between odd or even) starting from the corner closer to the river, for piazzas on the left bank of the river, numbers progress counterclockwise.
So in case of a flood, if your numbers are low, you will be under water first.
The numeration for businesses is separate and numbers are red, while for residences it's black or blue. However the City is replacing this numeration to make it uniformly of one color, at least outside the city center.

Posted by
160 posts

Hi,

Thanks for posting. I disagree with you on many points, but like you I'm curious as to the lack of toilet seats in some public bathrooms. I was in Florence, Siena and Bologna the week of November 12, 2025 (I've been going to Italy since 1992) and for the life of me I cannot fathom why some restaurants/public spaces don't have toilet seats!! It's 2025 for god sakes - let's come out of the Middle Ages.

My visit to Bologna was my first ever and though I don't like it is much as Florence, it is really beautiful. Everything I've read about the food was true. Looking forward to your report about it.

Posted by
17167 posts

It has nothing to do with being in the Middle Ages. All Italian homes have toilets with seats, cover, and (unlike other supposedly developed countries) even bidets, with no exception. But many public restroom toilets don’t have seats because some people don’t like to use them (plastic is less sanitary than ceramic or porcelain) and they break down a lot, in some cases because of vandalism, or even theft, in others because of frequent raising and lowering it, in others because some people like to stand with their feet on them (I guess in certain cultures they prefer to squat rather than sit). Toilets with no seats are also easier and faster to clean. So many Italians public restroom operators, prefer to do away with seats. When I worked in the city of Florence at an aquatic sports center some seats broke down every day, for one reason or another, so we finally decided to do without. Not sure if it’s still the case at that venue.

Posted by
1995 posts

No toilet seats is not a medieval thing but a modern thing. Seats get broken and are hard or expensive or both to replace. Not having a seat makes a toilet much easier to clean and keep clean. It's also actually easier for the user to wipe it off and/or sanitize it if the previous user was, uh, careless. This all makes sense to me, even though I'd prefer otherwise. The thing I don't understand is why the rims are not wider, at least a bit wider, more like a toilet seat --- surely the users would prefer that? I do know that the owners want to discourage people from putting their feet on the seat and squatting, so maybe that's why the narrow rims.

Posted by
17740 posts

Now for the really controversial bit, unless you are a scholar of
obscure renaissance Italian painters or you absolutely have to have a
selfie with Boticelli’s Birth of Venus, you can skip the Uffizi.

Glad that you mostly enjoyed your trip!
LOL, I've tried, I really have, to let this go but have to offer a word of defense. :O)

There is only one Michelangelo on display, and just a small handful of
other masters.

That singular Michelangelo - the "Doni Tondo" - is the only stand-alone panel in existence determined to be from his hand so it's exceedingly rare and utterly priceless.

A mere handful of other masters? Raphael, Da Vinci, Giotto, Daddi, Gaddi, Monaco, Rosselli, Fra Angelico and Fra Bartolomeo, Lippi, Dürer, Ghirlandaio, Del Sarto, Perugino, Gerard David, Hans Holbein the Younger (probably the finest portrait painter of his time), Hans Memling, Vasari, Del Sarto, Titian, Rubens Tintoretto, Caravaggio, El Greco, Rembrandt... I'm sure I've missed a few but you get the idea: more than a handful, and definitely not obscure even if someone like myself hasn't been formally schooled in Renaissance or other movements of art. Shoot, pieces which just catch the eye, illustrious name or not, can be the worthwhile reasons not to give this one a skip unless really not into art museums.

In your defense it's perfectly fine that you didn't enjoy the Uffizi as we all have different interests! I'd just be sad if someone else didn't go due to the impression that the collection was light on works by recognizable names and so it wouldn't appeal to anyone but art scholars. Crowded and too warm? We'll agree on that point, and "Birth of Venus" is not my fave of Botticelli's stuff at all so we're probably even on controversial bits too. HA!

I'm so jealous that you got to see the Fra Angelico exhibit! Were you able to see his wonderful frescoes in the monks' cells at Museo San Marco?

Posted by
176 posts

We are in Florence now (Nov 29) and we’re staying in Santo Spirito in Oltrarno. Love this area. It’s pretty quiet, but still convenient to all the sites and great restaurants and shops. We also saw the Fra Angelico exhibit which is fabulous, and Santa Croce is our favorite place to view in situ art.

We’re off to Arezzo, then Cortona and will fly home from Rome in a couple of weeks. Highly recommend off-season travel to Italy! .

Posted by
199 posts

Florence is my favorite city in the world. I have been many times, and I'm going back this June. On this trip I am planning an entire day in the Uffizi. It will be the first time I get to visit solo, and I'm going to soak it all in. Everyone is entitled to their opinion, of course, but for me, the Uffizi is unmatched in its offerings.

Posted by
1878 posts

"If you love art then you must visit Florence," I've read more than once on this forum. In line with "If you love wine then you must visit Tuscany", or "If you love music then you must visit Vienna."

Not really, though I really enjoyed visiting each of the destinations for other reasons.

Don't you have to be a contortionist to stand on a toilet bowl rim or seat to do your business?

Posted by
4445 posts

unless you are a scholar of obscure renaissance Italian painters or
you absolutely have to have a selfie with Boticelli’s Birth of Venus,
you can skip the Uffizi.

Can't most art museums come across a bit this way? I have a friend who often orders a book of a museum's displayed works before a trip, makes a list of things he wants to see, and then goes on a search at the museum. I don't have the patience for that. This is one of the places I find a private or group guide helpful -- he/she can provide a curated experience that helps you find the more notable works. Did this at the Uffizi way back in 2015. Did it a year or two ago at the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam. And at a bunch of art museums in between.

Posted by
1878 posts

Kate, I'd say anyone wearing stilettoes and standing on a toilet seat to do the business is a work of art. A modern day Crouching Venus.

Posted by
17740 posts

Gundersen, I'd say anyone wearing stilettos and standing on the toilet seat to do their business has a death wish.

Posted by
2030 posts

Can't most art museums come across a bit this way?

Well, Uffizi is where a sizable chunk of Western art is on display so they cannot help being as they are. Philippe Daverio, a late very popular Italian art critic with many TV programs, once said that when you go to a library you do not try to read all the books, the same way when you go to a museum you should not try to see all the pictures. Choose a few and try to understand them. An artist could easily spend months or years painting a picture, and you look to it in 25 seconds?

Pictures should be looked at the way you look pictures in your church, once every week all your life long... I have spent 30 years looking at a Nativity scene from 16th century and an Annunciation from 14th century in my church. To me, they are the most meaningful pictures in the world.

Posted by
17740 posts

Roberto!!!! 🤣😂

lachera:

....when you go to a library you do not try to read all the books, the
same way when you go to a museum you should not try to see all the
pictures

Wise advice, that. Plus, appetizer bites of art can be more enjoyable than a full-out feast? It's a reason that I'll recommend that folks allergic to sprawling art museums (Looking at you too, Palazzo Pitti) at least visit a few churches in Florence which house some especially valuable/interesting works. It's a great way to get economical, low-crowd tastes of the Renaissance so important to this city's story - much of it in situ after 6 centuries or so - without becoming overwhelmed. 😳

Posted by
437 posts

Thanks for this report. I'd like to catch the Fra Agelico exhibit before it closes so it would be during the coldest weather. How was the heating / hot water situation in Guest House Morandi?

Posted by
9 posts

Alyson - when we arrived it was unseasonably warm for November, so we were more focused on the A/C but Morandi does have both central heat and room thermostats. There are also towel heaters in the bathroom. The shower water can be turned up quite hot if needed. We enjoyed our stay there - the rooms are very nice and the location is great. And I can’t recommend the Fra Angelico exhibit highly enough - it’s truly phenomenal

Posted by
4862 posts

Not everyone loves a museum. We have friends who never set foot in a museum, anywhere, in any city. Or churches. To each their own.
What has helped me appreciate art during our travels is Rick’s book - Europe’s Top 100 Masterpieces. I read up on the art in whatever city I am visiting and it does help me understand why a picture I find so-so is important.