Hello,
Do you have advice on where to make home base for the two nights in the Dolomites in September? What's the difference between Bolzano and Ortisei? Any other suggestions or advice?
Looking for beauty, awe, culture (in that order). Hoping to do some easy hiking, see beautiful vistas, etc.
We will be traveling from Venice, then dolomites, then off to Innsbruck. Total trip includes, Rome > Florence > Venice > Dolomites > Innsbruck > Munich.
Thanks!
Michelle
Michelle:
My favorite place to stay is actually north of Venice--just across the Austrian border--north of Lienz, Austria. You go through the Dolomites to get there.
The entrance to the Grossglockner High Alpine Highway is close by, and the road goes over the second highest peaks in Western Europe. You end up in Zell-am-Zee which is east and a little north of Innsbruck. It's an easy drive into Innsbruck from there.
I've traveled to many beautiful places, but the south side of the Austrian Alps is about as beautiful as it gets. And they have a number of very nice resorts and hotels in the Lienz area too.
Only problem I can see is drop off fees of a Rome rental car--leaving it in Munich.
What's the difference between Bolzano and Ortisei?
Several thousand people. Bolzano is a city and Ortisei is a village. It is very atmospheric and you would be right IN the mountains where you have quick access to easy hiking and amazing vistas. Can you squeeze out 3 nights from your itinerary? You will be happy you did!
FYI, you do not have to have a car to enjoy Ortisei. There is an easy bus from Bolzano station.
PM me if you decide on Ortisei and I will share some personal hiking experiences.
I went on the RS Alpine tour in 2015. That year they switched from Bolzano to Castelrotto (Kastelruth) for the 2-night Dolomites stay because it was much closer to the Alpi di Siusi. It was a pleasant small town with good restaurants and regular bus service (20-30 minutes) to Compatch, where we took the cable car, then ski lift up to the hiking trails.
We stayed at Mirabel Garni or Hotel which is 1kilometer from Ortisei and right in the Val Gardena, Dolomites and excellent for hiking (easy ones as I have a knee that acts up). We drove to Bolzano as it is a bigger city and not a villege like Ortisei, as an afternoon was enough. If you want to see the mountains they are just outside your door. The hotel is family run, very clean, excellent included breakfast. The village of Ortisei and Santa Cristina is about a 5 minute drive with shops and places to eat and lifts to the higher elevations for hiking. The Val Gardena area is beautiful. Castelrotto/Kastelruth is a short distance and a nice little tourist town in the mountains. Remember the area is German/Italian so you get your pizza and sausages with beer and wine. Also the area is know for their wood work. You will see lots of shops selling things made of wood.
Keep in mind that if you are going up the A22 Brenner Pass it will be crowded depending on time of day/ don't chose Sunday as most of Germany is going home. We made that mistake as we only wanted to go over the Pass however we made a charming side trip to Reifenstein Castle off the A22 which if you have time is really something to see. Sitting high on a hill and not at all touristy as it is privately owned the family opens it up for tours in German (the tour guide we had did try to give us some English but most everyone was German/Italian). I think it is in Ricks books but it is worth seeing as it is so not touristy and you will be going right past it to Innsbruck
In addition to size and proximity to the mountains, a third difference between Bolzano and Ortisei is the probable temperature in September. Bolzano is a valley city and subject to the same sort of heat you might encounter in Verona/Padua/Venice, etc. Unfortunately, many of the city's hotels are not air-conditioned. Once you get up into the mountains you won't need air conditioning.
I do like Bolzano. It has a good-sized and very pretty historic district, lots of restaurants, and a number of museums, including the one housing the Iceman. It's worth a visit for sure. Buses to the mountain towns stop very near the train station. From there it's not a long walk to the historic center. Bolzano would be a great place to go if you are unlucky with the weather one day.
Bressanone is a smaller valley city, also with a pretty historic district, but it doesn't match Bolzano's museums and the train station is a healthy walk for the center of the historic district. And its hotels are equally averse to air conditioning.
I prefer Cortina D'ampezzo as a home base. Smller than Bolzano, bigger than Ortezei, and more on the easter side.
From there, hikes at Tre cime di Lavaredo is just heaven(ggole the name)
Lago Di Braies is also a great wlk. Very different, only an hour and easy but gorgeous
Lago Di Sora piss as well.
I bought a book called "Shorter hikes in the Dolomites" which I will use on my second trip over there this summer.
A few years ago we followed Laurel's blog and suggestions and were glad we did: Bolzano for a couple of nights especially to see the Iceman museum, and then five nights in Ortizei at a small inn for wonderful hiking up two sides of the valley. She went there every summer for several years, so hopefully you can see her blog.
