First Time Italy Itinerary Advice (June, Family of 4) – Rome, Florence, Ligurian Coast, Venice

For such a short trip I recommend skipping Lerici and adding one night to each of the other three cities. Also don’t stay out on Murano. You’ll waste a lot of time getting into Venice. Monti neighborhood is a great choice in Rome but choose a hotel that’s locally owned not an Airbnb. Also your children will probably like Rome and Florence better than Venice so if you are committed to Lerici (I’ve never been there) skip Venice or cut it back to 2 nights in Venice not Murano. If what you want to see is CT area but not necessarily the five villages consider Levanto and Santa Margherita Ligure.

I'm going to agree that your current itinerary is agressive; especially with 4 children in tow. I would also recommend deleting one of your places if you can't add extra days. Remember that every time you travel to new locations you lose at least half a day of sightseeing. In the case of Lerici to Venice, you would essentially lose a whole day.

While I understand the desire for an apartment, with 4 children, I can't say I love the idea of staying in Murano. Again, with a very short stay already, you are losing a lot of sightseeing time just getting to and from Venice. 2 nights, with 2 full days in Venice might be sufficient. But with a late day arrival because of the transit from Lerici, not to mention the time it will take to get out to Murano, you currently only have one day to visit one of the most unique cities in the world. So my answer to that question is no, 2 nights is not enough.

Hi!

Sounds like a wonderful trip with your family.

Generally, we like to settle in to fewer locations and potentially add some day trips so my first thought would be to stick to Rome, Florence, and Venice as two nights will really only give you one full day in a location.

Venice is our favorite city so I am admittedly biased, but I don’t know that two nights is enough. I know many people on here have also recommended Row Venice as a fun activity for kids around the age of your children, but it would be hard to add in such an activity with limited time there if you still wanted to visit the main attractions. I would highly recommend staying in Venice (Cannaregio is less crowded and easy if you are arriving by train). Murano is beautiful, but you will waste a lot of time going back and forth to the hotel. Venice is beautiful in the evening so you might enjoy being able to wander without having to catch a vaporetto back to Murano.

I am not sure where you are headed post-Italy, but if you are headed directly to the US it might be worth seeing if you can reverse the order of your trip to end in Rome. Flights to the US are often early and getting o the Venice airport for early flights can be a little tricky.

If well planned, Rome would be tight but doable in my opinion. Of course, some of that depends on your travel style.

We enjoy train only travel, but I defer to others who have rented cars in Tuscany chime in.

Enjoy your travels!

@CJean
Thanks for the thoughtful reply — really appreciate it. Just to clarify, we’re traveling with two kids (11 & 14), not four, so that may change some of the logistics a bit.

Your point about losing time on travel days is well taken, especially Lerici → Venice. That’s exactly what we’re trying to balance — keeping the coast without shortchanging Venice too much.

Based on feedback here, we’re leaning toward keeping Venice at 3 nights if we include Lerici, so we still have enough time to explore without feeling rushed.

@Travler2015

Thank you — this is really helpful, and I appreciate you calling out your Venice bias 😊

The evening point is a great one, and that’s something we’ve been weighing with Murano vs staying on the main islands. We’re now leaning toward 3 nights in Venice if we keep Murano, so evenings don’t feel rushed.

We do want some coastal downtime for the kids, which is why we started looking at Lerici instead of Cinque Terre, but we’re trying hard not to overpack the itinerary.

Lots to think about — thank you again for the perspective.

I agree with the above posters about not staying in Murano. You will waste so much time. Although I am on the Rick Steves forum, and I sometimes use his guidebooks, I don't always follow his advice. In addition to Cannaregio, another awesome location and less crowded is Dorsoduro, where we stayed last May. We stayed at a hotel about a one-minute walk from the Accademia bridge. It was about a 20-minute walk to St. Mark's Square. We loved staying in Dorsoduro.

I don't necessarily agree that your children won't like Venice. Even though I haven't been there with children, I think they would like and enjoy seeing the canals, riding on the vaporettos and taking a gondola ride. And walking across the bridges. Venice is so unique and really is like no other, IMO. We picked up our gondola ride at Campo S. Barnaba in Dorsoduro. Told the gondolier to take us down the back canals that are quiet and less crowded rather than spending a lot of time on the Grand Canal.

Two nights is not sufficient in Venice, IMO. I would spend 3 or 4 nights in Venice. You won't be enjoying the food and neighborhoods with 2 nights. Don't forget that 2 nights essentially gives you one full day, and perhaps 1/2 day when you arrive or when you depart.

I really believe that 4 destinations in 10 nights is too much especially traveling with children. You need to slow down. I would add an extra night to Rome. I think you will be very frustrated with your current itinerary. Don't forget that June will be hot so that will slow you down, too. You'll want to stop more often for cold drinks, gelato, etc.

If you are set on the coast for your children, I would delete Florence. While we loved Florence, it was the most crowded city we visited on our 5-week trip last May/June. The art is amazing but we have no desire to return. I would return to Venice in a heartbeat. Obviously I am biased towards Venice :-)

Please consider Cannaregio or Dorsoduro instead of Murano for Venice.

One of my friends took her three children to Venice and they loved it. They took a gondola ride I know. They visited Murano but did not stay in it. They spent 4 nights there.

I have been to Venice twice. You want to stay in Venice proper not Murano. You can stay outside the tourist areas and still stay in Venice. I do not think two nights are sufficient. We spent 4 nights our first visit with our young adult children and 3 nights returning on our own. 2 nights only gives you one full day. I would spend at least 3 nights. I actually think your children might like Venice the most of the three cities you are visiting.

Too many locations for 10 nights only.
Venice: 3 nights
Florence: 3 nights
Rome 4 nights
is all you have time to do. Skip Liguria unless you can prolong your vacation.
I wouldn’t stay in Murano unless you have several nights (like 4 nights) in Venice. The ferry transfers will add time, which you don’t seem to have. There are lots of neighborhoods in Venice that are quiet. Crowds tend to concentrate on the sestiere of San Marco and on the main walking routes (“calli” or streets with no canals, or “fondamenta”, streets with canals) connecting the main spots: San Marco, Rialto, Accademia, Ferrovia (train station), Piazzale Roma, Frari.
You can see the map of the walking tourists in the image below (based on mobile phone data):
https://share.google/a76f4TMSIUgclG6MS

Stay away from those paths and nobody is around.

What about doing 4 nights Rome, 3 nights Lerici, and 3 nights Venice and remove Florence?

We’ll be arriving in Rome from Paris and departing Italy on either
June 21 or June 22.

Can you tell us how long you have been in Paris before this and where you are going when you leave Italy?
Are your flights booked?

Please stay in Venice, not Murano. Give it 3 nights minimum. There is nowhere else like it in the world. Kids usually love it. There are lots of areas to stay in Venice.
Avoid flying to US from Venice if possible, usually early morning flights. Have your transport to VCE worked out.

I would choose 3 locations on a 10 night trip. I do love Florence but it will be crowded and hot- are you there for the art? It will be very crowded. You’ve only given it 2 nights-1 full day.

I would choose between Florence and a coast or lake location.
Lerici probably requires a car

Have you considered a lake location instead of west coast?
It just takes a long time to get from Lerici to Venice.
Lake Garda is a possibility.

Rome 3 or 4
Garda or Verona with day trip
Venice 3 or 4

All easily done by train.

Can you fly from Paris to Venice?

If so
Venice 3- stay in Venice not Murano
Garda or Florence 3
Rome 4
Fly to?

Hi there, CBM. This?

It just takes a long time to get from Lerici to Venice

Looking at the Trenitalia schedules, you'd be spending an average of 7 hours on trains to do this, more or a bit less. That doesn't include the packing up, checking out, getting to the station and whatever wait time you'd have before boarding. On the other end you'd be managing transport to your accommodation...which in Venice can also eat some time. So all-in-all you'd be killing the lion's share of a day - and your days are limited - to make this transfer. The same would apply to any of the CT locations.

I'll also throw my vote in with the others to give Rome 4 nights, Venice 3 nights, to stay IN the city versus Murano, and to fly into Venice and out of Rome. I loved Florence but am also an art geek so we found plenty to occupy our time, and it's an easy, no-changes fast-train ride from Venice. It just may not be as enjoyable for your young people. Crowded? Yes, but figure that the 'tourist' cities and major attractions are all going to be very busy in June.

I like the idea of Verona as there are a lot of day trips within just short train journeys that you could take if so inclined. Moving on to Rome from there could consume just 1/2 a day, tops, depending on which train(s) you took. I'm seeing a couple which can get you there in 3.5 hours, no changes.

I have been to both Lake Como (convenient to flying into Milan) and lake Garda and agree with posters who suggest a lake rather than the coast. The ferries are fun and you can swim with mountains in the background. Bring water shoes as beaches for the most part have pebbles not sand.

You also can take a vaporetto to Lido and walk to the beach there. We went while in Venice for a brief visit the evening I got us there by mistake. Four of my party (there were 7 of us) went back a different day. The beach is Sandy there.

Lots of good advice so far. I'll add my random thoughts...

Of all the places in Italy, kids are probably more likely to enjoy Venice than anywhere else.

Each new city burns at least a half day from your pretty limited time in Italy. As someone mentioned, it's not just the time of the actual travel, it's the packing up, getting to the transit hub early enough to not worry about missing... then when you arrive, you gotta get to your group to the new lodging, check in and settle.

Related to this is the idea the sometimes less is more when it comes to travel. Those eight hours spent moving can be spent doing something or very importantly doing nothing. People watching in a piazza or soaking up the sun in a park while the kids kick their soccer ball is a good balance.

Try to support local small hotels vs AirBnBs. AirBnBs have a tendency to take housing out of the local community.

Pack light... try to do one carry on per person. You'll end up carrying the kids stuff at times so maybe a mix of rollers and backpacks between the kids and the adults. Small innkeepers and neighborhood laundromats will often do your laundry while you enjoy the local sights.

Make the kids eat local...no McDonalds, no Starbucks.

You have to drop something, but it did not have to be the coast, which you are clearly excited about and think your family will enjoy. Drop Florence, I see no mention of anyone being especially passionate about it, and it will be there when you come back. I don’t really see how anyone can take in all three of the big three on one trip. Let it air a bit!

I would like to reiterate what others have said. First fly into Venice and out of Rome, Unless you like getting a 4AM start to get to Venice airport. Kids will love Venice, especially Row Venice, where they learn to row a gondola. Also, stay IN Venice, 3 nights. Don't know anything about Lerici so I won't comment. That gives you 4 nights in Rome, with lots to do. I have been several times and always see something new. Also easy to get to the airport, and at a reasonable time.Taxis are flat fee, I think 55 euros now, but don't quote me on price.

@ChristineH

• We are flying from Denver, CO to Paris overnight 6/8 arrive in Paris @ 11am on 6/9. We will have a lay-flat seat to help sleep on the way over. Our flights from Paris to Rome are on 6/11 @ 12:45 arriving at 2:50p.
• Honestly, we were choosing Murano because I was able to book the Hyatt Centric utilizing points, which is helping reduce the overall cost of the trip. I also thought I read that it sits right in front of a water taxi stop.
• We were considering flying out of Venice on Aer Lingus leaving Venice @ 12:10p. We are able to add another day in Venice for a total of 4 nights if we need to.

As for the lakes, honestly, I haven't even looked or considered them. I think the main thing my wife wants is to see the cute, colorful villages along the coast, which is why we were trying to go there. I would love to hear more about the lakes, and will also research more on my own.

@Chris
The reason we were going with Airbnb was really due to cost and room size. In Rome, we are able to get a 2-bed 700 sq ft apartment for $350/night, whereas a hotel with a tiny room for the 4 of us is $450/night. As for the McDonald's comment, trust me, that is the last thing I want my kids eating :-)! I want to enjoy as much local food as possible.

I think we have committed to switching to 4 nights in Rome, and if need be, we can do 4 nights in Venice as well. I think we shortened it because I read many people saying it was too long and that it was expensive.

If your wife wants to see cute, colorful villages then definitely go to Burano. It is an easy ride from Venice and is a beautiful island. There are plenty of little shops to check out, but we enjoyed just sitting in the park looking back at Venice. On the last trip, we got to watch a thunderstorm across the lagoon that was over Venice but avoided Burano.

The Hyatt on Murano is right in front of a water taxi stop, but it is still about 20-30 mins to get to Venice then walking to whichever sites you want to visit. We generally stay in Airbnbs and have some that are pretty reasonable which may help offset not using points.

If you want to give the kids some beach time, the Lido is fun. The beach is sandy (as mentioned above) and there are beach clubs where you can rent chairs. The ride to the Lido was pleasant with lovely views and it was a short walk to the beach clubs from the vaporetto stop.

Important distinction: The Hyatt Centric on Murano is right at a vaporetto stop. A water taxi is a completely different thing; you don't want to use a water taxi in Venice because of the high cost (probably over $100 for even a short trip).

I agree that Murano is not a good place to stay. It is not a very pretty place, unlike Venice proper. It's interesting to visit Murano if you have a serious interest in art glass, but it's not a good base. Please trust us on this.

Burano is lovely. But Burano is a very long vaporetto ride from Venice, so it's not a good lodging location, either.

I understand the desire to save money with the Hyatt Centric, and I think the one in Murano is the only Hyatt in the area. If you want to stay there is fine, but you need to understand that you will need to “commute” 30+ minutes each way by ferry into Venice and back, and also be aware that the ferries may stop running late at night, so that you are not stuck in Venice unable to return to your hotel unless willing to pay a huge amount for a water taxi. So, if you want to stay in Murano, my suggestion would be to stay a very minimum of 3 nights,

Regarding Lerici. I’ve visited there many times in my youth, but always drove (car or motorcycle). There is no trains in Lerici, so without a car you need to take the L bus or the S bus from La Spezia Centrale. I know there are several ferry runs from la Spezia, but takes a bit longer. There are also several boat runs across the gulf to Porto Venere, but the ones to Cinque Terre are less frequent and don’t operate with high winds or rough seas. But the biggest issue, as others have pointed out, is the time necessary to get there from Venice or Rome. Basically the whole day is wasted in the transfer. There are bodies of water that are more convenient.

So I think we have settled on 4 nights in Rome 6/11 - 6/15 and 4 nights in Venice 6/18-6/22 staying at the Hyatt (can't justify paying the $1500 for a room elsewhere. The flight we are looking at for the way home leaves Venice at 12:15pm headed to Denver.
@Roberto what are your thoughts on Lerici? What other bodies of water would you recommend?

You will want to buy length of stay vaporetto passes as an individual ride is 9.50 euros

Be sure to validate your pass each and every time you board-fines are high and they do check

The vaporettos to and from Murano
are usually very crowded

It is unfortunate that we weren’t able to talk you out of staying in Murano
I think you are making a big mistake

Okay if we switched from Murano what about Eurostars Residenza in Cannaregio?

Not familiar with that hotel but anywhere in Cannaregio or in Venice proper is better than Murano

ETA
Location looks great-on a quiet back canal right near Row Venice

If you plan to visit Florence I think the Tornabuoni hotel is a Hyatt now, and it would be a top location. See if you can redeem your points there.
If you are interested on bodies of water, I think the Lido di Venezia is the closest beach location to your intended destinations and you can visit it while you are staying in Venice. Not really anything great, but if you must be at beach, that’s one

Liguria would be great if you had more nights at your disposal. Even from Florence it’s a 2.5-3 hour trek. Castiglioncello is closer to Florence and could be visited in a day.

Near Rome, Santa Marinella is not far by train. Ponza island would be greater but it requires extra effort and it would be a busy day trip. Ostia Lido is closer to Rome, but nothing to write home about. Another body of water you should consider is lake Albano. The town of Castel Gandolfo, on that lake, can be reached from Roma Termini in 45 min by train. That is a jewel of a town, not surprisingly the Pope vacations there.

There is no trains in Lerici, so without a car you need to take the L
bus or the S bus from La Spezia Centrale.

True, Lerici has no train service; if exploring the route from there to Venezia s. Lucia on the Trenitalia website it showed the bus numbers one would be taking onward from Lerici to La Spezia, and trains from there. Sorry, Roberto, I should have mentioned that. Still, it kills the lion's share of a sightseeing day and involves 2-4 transport changes so I'd consider one of the other more convenient water locations suggested.

I think the main thing my wife wants is to see the cute, colorful
villages along the coast,

As someone above mentioned, you could day-trip to Burano from Venice (approximately 45-60 minutes by vaporetto depending on where you're departing from) for the color she's looking for. Take a virtual walk around the island and see what you think?

I am going to go against the crowd and say staying in Murano is fine. We stayed at the NH Collection Murano, which is really close to the Hilton, with our two boys in August 2023. We have multi day vaporetto passes and the convenience to the airport was great. Murano has a more chill vibe and there is THE BEST outdoor pizza place about a block from the Hilton. We had also stayed in Venice the year before closer to the sites, so I don't think much was lost in those extra vaporetto rides.

One Thing - If you are going to take the Alilaguna boat to the airport, check the schedule and dock beforehand. We had a night flight out of Venice and didn't realize the boat we thought we would take wasn't running any more in the evening. So we had to book it across Murano to catch the other line.

I like Murano also. It’s like Venice but before mass tourism. It has a local feel and in fact many locals reside there, unlike Venice that has become an AirBnB theme park inhabited by tourists. Originally you said you wanted to stay only 2 nights, hence my suggestion to stay in Venice, but now that you switched to 4 nights, then the extra 1/2 hour commute to Venice wouldn’t impact your holiday much. So, your decision.

We have 4 nights booked right now, do you think Murano would be okay if we did 3 nights?

I think 3 nights is perfect. Looking at your kids ages, my boys were similar ages on our last Italy trip and after 3 nights we were usually looking for a change of scenery.

By the way, Osteria al Duomo is the pizza place I mentioned. We went twice!