First time in Lakes region: Stresa vs Varenna (or somewhere else)?

I really liked Stresa. In some ways, like a king-sized Bellagio. Varenna is smaller and cute, but not on the main train line. Stress is very accessible on the line from Milan to Domodossola up to Switzerland. From the train station it's about 10 minute walk to the lake side, and there is a long walk in either direction. The two islands in the lake are beautiful and there are frequent boat trips to them.

We have not been to Stresa yet, but will be spending a week in September on another Lago Maggiore town, Verbania. i was thinking of spending time in Stresa as well, but was deterred by the price of hotels with lake views, and by this post by a forum member who is very knowledgeable about Italy. Scroll down to the post by miuccia.

https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/italy/stresa-or

They recommend Baveno, the next town north, for more charm and less of that “old world grand hotel” feeling.

While these towns are right on the train line up to Switzerland that is the fastest route to Lauterbrunnen, I am going to suggest you consider a different route that takes longer but offers a more pleasant trip, with an overnight stop on the way. The “fast” route via Domodossola, Brig and Spiez consists of two long deep tunnels under the Alps and all the scenery. This route from Stresa to Lauterbrunnen takes about 3.5 hours, with 3 or 4 changes on the way, and about 50 minutes in the 2 tunnels.

A nice alternative would be to take a ferry up the lake to Locarno. You did say you like boat rides, correct? This is a very scenic one that you and your family should enjoy. I know my family, with 12-year-old grandchildren, loved a similar 3-hour boat ride on the Vierwaldstättersee (Lake Luzern) last September.

Here is the boat schedule for Lago Maggiore:
https://www.navigazionelaghi.it/wp-content/uploads/2024/03/Arona_Locarno_24.pdf

You depart Stresa at 11:15 and arrive in Locarno 3 hours later. From Locarno, the Treno Gottardo goes over the Gotthard Pass to Luzern in another 3 hours; a direct train with no changes on the way.

You could either (a) plan an overnight in a lakefront hotel in Locarno, spending the afternoon and evening enjoying the lake and the town, then take the Treno Gottardo to Luzern the next morning, changing there to the scenic Golden Pass train to Interlaken Ost, or (b). Continue from Locarno to Luzern after the ferry ride and overnight there before continuing on to Lauterbrunnen.

My personal choice would be (a), and I suspect you may have Luzern in your trip plans after Lauterbrunnen anyway (it is a good place to spend the night before flying home if you depart from Zurich).

Whichever overnight spot you choose, you are adding a night to the trip but getting a boat ride and 2 scenic train rides instead of 2 long deep tunnels.

If you decide to stay in Stresa, last time I was there a few years back I stayed at the hotel below, and I recommend it. It’s right in front of the Ferry plaza. I don’t remember if they have a pool. They have a parking arrangement with the Regina Palace hotel which has a large parking structure, so I parked there. It is possible they allow the use of the Regina’s pool, I think the two hotels are under the same ownership.
https://www.milansperanza.it/en/

I’ve never stayed in Baveno, which is nearby. I drove by and it seemed ok. I did stay in Verbania many years ago, in front of the ferry also, and did not like it. Verbania is a larger town and didn’t give me the feeling I was in a sleepy town on a lake, I felt like I was in Milan. Maybe now it’s different, but it is not a small town for sure. Cannobio is my favorite town on lake Maggiore, but there are no trains there, so you need a car, or a boat, or a bus from Intra.

On lake Como, Varenna is on a rail line, but Bellagio and Menaggio are easily reachable from Varenna by boat in just minutes. All three villages are nice.

If you are looking for a hotel with a pool, you can see them on Apple Maps, Satellite View. In Stresa, Grand Hotel Bristol has a large one. Grand Hotel des Iles Borromées has a round one; Hotel Astoria and Regina Palace also have pools. These grand hotels are all lined up in a row along the Stresa waterfront.

If you decide to stay in Verbania, the city was actually born from the merger of two towns separated by a river: Intra and Pallanza. I stayed in the Intra side, and, as I said earlier, did not like it. It was a bustling city, maybe because the main big car ferry to Laveno, across the lake, docks there. I think the Pallanza part of town is quieter and nicer between the two. My opinion of course.

I liked Stresa, however, primarily because it's logistically convenient for the boats to the islands (Isola Bella, which is gorgeous, and also Isola dei Pescatori, or Superiore, which is a quaint village). The last time I went, I didn't stay much in Stresa otherwise, I was always driving around. In the evening I went around the old center, especially Piazza Cadorna, which has restaurants and cafes with sidewalk tables, and where most people hang out in the evening.

You for the many replies and helpful information!
I will have to look into Baveno, as we typically try to find an apartment for rent rather than a hotel.
although the "Grand Hotels" in Stresa look intriguing--like something out of a history book or movie--I bet they are less comfortable