Hi everyone!
I'm a longtime Rick Steves fan and hope this wonderful community can help us fine-tune our first family trip to Italy.
When I was in college, I followed Rick's recommendations on a backpacking trip through Western Europe, and they made all the difference. I've been a fan ever since, so it seemed only fitting to ask for your advice.
This is a special trip for our family—our daughter (21) graduates from college in December and starts law school in the fall, so this is her graduation trip. It will be the three of us: my husband (59), me (55), and our daughter.
I've been to Italy once (Rome, Florence, and Venice). Rome became my favorite city, and I'm excited to return. I'd like to give Florence another chance because I think I was suffering from museum fatigue on my first visit. Venice just wasn't the right fit for me, although I know many people love it. My husband and daughter have never been to Italy—their only European trip was to London, which we all loved.
We love walking historic cities, architecture, great food, ancient history, scenic views, and vibrant city life. We'd rather wander neighborhoods than spend all day in museums, although our must-sees include the Colosseum, Roman Forum, Vatican Museums, Accademia, Uffizi, and Brunelleschi's Dome.
I've always wanted to visit Siena because my sister spent a college gap year there, and I've dreamed of seeing Positano. My husband is especially excited about Pompeii.
Although Cinque Terre and the Italian Lakes are on our future wish list, we're thinking late March isn't the ideal season. Instead, we're focusing on Rome, Tuscany, and using Sorrento as our base for Pompeii, Capri, Positano, and the Amalfi Coast.
We'll pass through Naples but have chosen not to stay there, preferring more time in Tuscany and Sorrento. If we're overlooking something special, I'd love to hear your thoughts.
Our itinerary is:
Rome – 5 nights
Florence – 2 nights
Siena/Tuscany – 3 nights (including Easter Sunday)
Sorrento – 4 nights (base for Pompeii, Capri, Positano & Amalfi Coast)
Rome – 1 final night before flying home
I'd really appreciate your advice on three questions:
1. Weather (March 20–April 4): What should we realistically expect in Rome, Florence, Tuscany, Sorrento, Capri, and the Amalfi Coast? Is this generally a pleasant time for walking?
2. Amalfi Coast: Is Sorrento a good four-night base in late March? What is typically open? Are ferries, restaurants, and shops operating? Is Capri usually a worthwhile day trip, or is it too weather dependent? How would you divide four days among Pompeii, Capri, Positano, Amalfi, and other nearby destinations?
3. Easter: We'll be in Siena on Easter Sunday. Is that a good choice? Are there transportation or restaurant issues we should anticipate, or local traditions we shouldn't miss?
Finally, if you were introducing Italy to first-time visitors who love walking, architecture, food, and cities, would you change anything about this itinerary?
Thank you so much! I've already learned so much from reading this forum and truly appreciate any advice.
Posted by
Charleston & Birmingham
5377 posts
I would give one of those Rome nights to Florence. Florence is a great city for walking and architecture.
Posted by
Irving
3602 posts
I would go straight to Florence after landing in Rome. It's best to go your destination that's further away on arrival day and work your way back.
Posted by
6920 posts
RE Sorrento day trips: full day for Capri, full day for Pompeii, full day for Amalfi coast. Or visit Naples, at least keep it in your pocket in case of rain—it’s endlessly interesting.
Weather websites can give you the historic averages. It’ll be chilly at night, but with a chance for nice sunny days. Or rain, but you really cannot guarantee. Everything will be open in Sorrento.
Posted by
65 posts
Hi!
Have you already booked your flights? If not, an open jaw into Florence and out of Rome might be easier as it would avoid backtracking. If that is not possible, I would agree with trying to go straight to Florence. You can catch the train from FCO and then take the high speed train to Florence. It will make for a long day, but with reserved seating on the high speed train you should be comfortable.
I can’t speak to Florence or Tuscany. Having been to Florence twice, it is not my favorite. When I stayed on the Amalfi Coast, we stayed in Sorrento and found it to be a good base as it has better connectivity than some towns. March was cooler with some scattered showers, but not unpleasant and who knows what will happen with weather these days. Given that you enjoy walking, it will probably be more comfortable than summer.
Given your priorities, it sounds like you have hit the highlights. I would think it a shame to visit and not go to Venice, but I understand that was not your favorite city so it makes sense to skip.
Posted by
Chicago, IL, USA
715 posts
Who knows what to predict for Europe weather in recent years but I like the historical weather search feature at wunderground.com. Look at your week each of the last 10 years to get a sense of what to expect and how much variability from year to year. We did a similar trip that same time of year. Was about 20 years ago. Weather at Sorrento was poor I’m afraid. Cool and quite rainy. We kept pushing back our day for Pompéi then finally said if it’s not better the next day we buy plastic rain suits which they were selling up and down the street and just go anyway. But our final day when we went was lovely after all.
Posted by
124 posts
Driving or trains? I might have missed that.
Agree, one less day in Rome, put it in Florence. I think maybe returning you will enjoy it even more (good for you to be so perceptive and know it might have been museum fatigue!). BUT on the Amalfi cost, the true beauty (seen from pictures) of Positano is looking out over the city and water. Any way you could stay one or two nights right there - maybe do that as a slow down time? (Warning - if you are driving, those roast on the Amalfi cost difficult!). When in that area, try to stop at Ravello! And in Tuscany, consider Castello de Verrazzano Wineries - https://www.verrazzano.com/en/. We have done the tour + lunch - twice! Would do again! Absolutely fantastic location and wonderful meal with WINE!
Have a wonderful time.
Posted by
Gettysburg PA
9534 posts
Welcome!
Have you booked flights yet?
If not consider flying in to Rome, out of Naples
Or into Florence, out of Naples
Book as a “multi-city” ticket under Advanced Search (not 2 one way tickets)
If you must do RT Rome then it makes sense to move onward on arrival day to Florence and put all Rome nights at end.
That eliminates that 1 night hotel stay/backtrack
Arrive Rome
Train to Florence- 3 nights (a 2 night stay only gives you 1 full day and your first day here is your travel/jet lag day)
Train to Siena 2 or 3 nights
You will have to train back to Florence to catch fast train to Naples and then on to Sorrento- this is a long travel day- will take most of the day
Sorrento- 4 or 5 nights- with 4 nights you only have 3 full days-you have just enough time for 1 day Pompeii, 1 day Capri (maybe- see what the weather is like), 1 day AC- have all your transportation figured out for this area- it is chaotic - there are dozens of discussions here about how to get around
Positano is worth just a few hours. Best viewed from the water. Ravello is well worth a visit.
Mondo Guides offers well reviewed, affordable shared tours from Sorrento. We used them for Pompeii and Capri and enjoyed each very much.
https://www.sharedtours.com
It will take a good half day+ to get up to Rome- thru Naples
Rome 5 nights- gives you 4 full days here
If you can depart from Naples
Arrive Rome 5 nights
Florence 3
Siena 2 or 3
Sorrento 4 or 5
Fly home from Naples- depending on flight time you may need to spend night before departure in Naples
I would really try to give Sorrento/AC another night- it is a hassle and time consuming to get to/from- make it worth the trouble.
I would probably take a night from Siena- 2 nights there is fine.
Ferries start running in April in general but with Easter March 28 I might expect them to start that week. Shops/restaurants will be open.
Wherever you are for Easter you will need to make dinner reservations.
I believe Easter lunch at a restaurant is traditional- make reservations
You will need to booked timed entries for all the major sites- always book on the official sites.
Posted by
San Diego, California
7158 posts
Congrats to your daughter.
Must you travel these dates over the Easter holiday? The week before and after Easter will bring additional crowds- and the tourist sites in Italy are already crowded, even in shoulder seasons. I have learned this from experience. In addition, there will be closures, and Easter Monday is considered a holiday. Rome will be jammed.
If you can't change your dates, just be prepared to move more slowly, expect crowded trains /roads, longer waits/lines , perhaps plan less, and double check everything regarding closures.
Siena is beautiful, but from past experience in Italy, we found wineries closed Easter weekend. We recently used Tours by Roberto, (from the RS TV shows and guidebook, ) but again, Easter is family time, so check his website for availability. We loved Tuscany, it's a very large area, and can absorb lots of visitors .
Even if not religious, we have found going to Mass on Easter to be a spectacular event- but do arrive early for a seat.
The Amalfi Coast IS 100% weather dependent for enjoyment. Again, learned from experience. Without clear skies, there are no views, no scenic vistas, and not much else to do. Also, the infrastructure has been sadly neglected for decades, so all modes of transportation involve gridlock, time, and patience. We used Aldo Limos for getting from Naples, and back to Rome. They are expensive, but more comfortable than the alternatives. Christine, in the front office, is a Brit, so email communication is easy, and we worked out a package deal.
Positano is better viewed from the water. There is not much love for it here: the town is just high-end shopping.
Pompeii is spectacular.
Weather- completely unpredictable in the spring.
Really wish you'd reconsidered Venice, just stay away from St Marks's Square and the Rialto Bridge .
Good luck, I wish you blue skies and clear weather. And enjoy your daughter, because you won't be seeing much of her once law school starts. Again, speaking from experience.
Safe travels.
Posted by
Indiana
1239 posts
I too, would take a day from Rome and add it to Florence. One full day there is not nearly enough. If you are dreaming of a shopping mecca mobbed with people where you will be walking up the hills, then Positano is your spot. IMO the best part of Positano is the view from the ferry. I would suggest you trade that for a day in Ravello. Reserve a seat on the open air shuttle that transports people from the town of Amalfi to Ravello. It's vastly more comfortable than the crowded SITA bus, and will get you there and back on time. The ferries will be dependent on the weather. Have a plan B so that you can pivot if your day needs to change due to a ferry cancellation. In my book, Pompeii is an absolute must when you are in that part of Italy. If that is on your husband's bucket list, you may want to consider hiring a private guide for the day. Enjoy your daughter's graduation and trip!