Finding Nonna - arrived October 1

How fulfilling. I hope the three of you have a wonderful time and feel back at home. Please report.

Thank you for the report. Please continue!

Day 2
Drove rental car from Padova to Velo D’Astico about one hour and met with my Italian genealogist- Elena Gissi.
Strongly recommend
https://egancestryresearch.com/
She specializes in Northern Italy.
She found the location of Nonna’s house, we visited her church, we toured the church archives and found her baptismal certificate. She found Nonna’s parents death certificates and family tree to 1780! At the cemetery we miraculously found the grave of Nonna’s brother. At lunch at the restaurant Mille Pini- highly recommend! We talked to the staff and they knew the grandson of Nonna’s brother. He came and showed us more sites and relatives and we all had drinks at the Mille Pini!
My mother met her 2nd cousin!
Strongly recommend Elena Gissi for Italian family genealogy trips!!!
Returned to Padua happy and tired.

I leave for Italia Oct 10 and have been especially interested in the covid testing issues. Interesting that your airline did not check that or vaccine card. Using VeriFly and hopefully (fingers crossed) we will get our test in the correct amount of time to fly. Buon viaggio!

Thanks for reporting in! How did you discover Elena Gissi?

Found Elena- while listening to virtual travel show which featured Rick Steves and others. I sent in a question about finding my family in Italy and referred to her. She has also researched for PBS- Finding your Roots.
Best experience ever!

Day 3
In Padova we attended mass at St. Anthony’s Basilica, strolled the Prato Valle where we ate at the restaurant Fuel- wonderful meal outside overlooking the piazza.
Took the tram to the Scrovegni chapel (reserved ahead). Don’t miss this! They checked the CDC cards.
Strolled the piazzas on the way back to our hotel and had gelato. Tired my mother out and went to sleep early.
Masks worn inside, not much outside.
On to Venice tomorrow.

What a wonderful experience for you all.

Day 4
Drove from Padova to Marco Polo airport to return rental car- all was well with that- no dents. Very easy to get to water taxi and we were off motor boating to our hotel. I did splurge in Venice as my great grandmother’s last name was Danieli- we had to stay 2 nights at the hotel. Since our room was not ready we walked the Rick Steves San Marco to Rialto walk. After that my mother went to our room to rest, while my daughter and I explored Venice - I should have gotten tickets for Peggy Guggenheim- sold out! We also visited La Salute Church and took a Traghetto across the canal- 2 euro. Shopping around the Rialto. Cicchetti and aperitivos on the terrace at the hotel overlooking the lagoon. Strolled San Marco Piazza and listen to the music at the Florian before calling it a night.

What a wonderful trip! I am so glad you were able to go.

I know all of your trip will be wonderful - but what a successful Day 2!

DAY 5
I know I probably need to put this under trip reports, but this is where I started.
Woke up in Venice and ate breakfast on the terrace at the Danieli- glorious! Thought it was going to rain, but held off. The acqua Alta - high tide at mid day- elevated walkways went up around the piazza. Attended mass at San Marco Basilica with my mother- side chapel. The line has been long for the Bascilica- no usual skip line tickets. I had booked the Secret Itinerary for the Doge’s Palace- the best part was the adventures of Casanova and his escape from the prison, Council of 10 secret passage way, and the Bridge of Sighs. The guide took us thru the horrors of the torture chamber to the splendors of the Great Hall.
We could see the terrace of the Danieli where we ate a gourmet breakfast from the jail cells with wooden beds and bucket toilets.
In the afternoon more shopping at Rialto, Rick’s walking tour Rialto to Frari - must see Ascension of Virgin. Took Vaporetto back to Hotel. Evening was Gondola Ride, dinner at outdoor Florian cafe, and Vivaldi concert at Chiesa di Santa Maria della Pieta- church were Vivaldi played.

DAY 6
Just to confirm for all indoor activities- restaurants, trains, and sites - you must show passport and CDC card and stay masked.
After breakfast we got in the line for San Marco Basilica about 30 minutes early in the rain - opens at 9:30 temperature check and CDC/passport combo. Paid for entrance, palo oro and horses in the museum. Spectacular and sun came out once on the top terrace with the outdoor 4 horses.
After checked out of hotel and took water taxi to train station. Had reserved train tickets online. Church San Geremia (remains of St Lucy) closed. Train arrived at Firenze Santa Maria Novella and got taxi to hotel Oralfi near the Ponte Vecchio. Dinner at Ristorante Grotta Guelfa- great steaks!
Traveling with spry 85 year old we let her rest in the afternoons and are in bed early.

DAY 7
Breakfast in the hotel at the ballroom frescoed with angels on the ceiling. Cappuccino and croissant with cream. Have prepaid tickets for Uffizi/Pitti/ Boboli- must start at Uffizi with 0815 entry time. Listened to Rick’s Uffizi tour and thoroughly enjoyed the Giotto, Botticelli, Leonardo, and Michelangelo. Had a macchiato and acqua naturale on the terrace. Bargello - no line for tickets - next thoroughly enjoying Rick’s commentary there also along with the Donatello’s and “minor” Michelangelo’s. Great looking at the contest panels for the Baptistry doors and picking the winner. Time for lunch with panini from A’lla Vivantico- must try the Summer- I liked the one with truffle spread.
In the afternoon loved walking thru the Profumerio Santa Maria Novella- smelling ancient Rose water. Negroni and wine with pizza for apertivo time.
Visited Santa Croce Church to see the graves of Michelangelo, Galileo, Dante and Rossini. After the church there was an immersive Dante Divine Comedy experience with illustrations projected on the walls of the chapel with incredible chanted soundtrack.
Dinner reservations at the Osteria de Chingiale Bianco- featured on Stanley Tucci’s finding Italy. Tomato bread soup, fried polenta with mushrooms, wild boar, crostini, and Vin Santo - dessert wine of the Saint with cookies.

DAY 8
Breakfast at the hotel then walk to Accademia to see David (pre-booked) Rubbed the nose of the pig and put a coin in the fountain de porcellino at the mercato nuovo- leather shopping. Listened to Rick’s Accademia audio tour- saw the prisoners and musical instrument museum. Viewed a Renaissance parade of Italian men in traditional tights! Next 1030 at Duomo museo (pre-booked). This is where the art of the Duomo is housed along with great museum on its construction. The line to get into the Duomo (free)- way too long! We did have a tour of the Baptistry included.
On way back to hotel we listened to the Rick Steves Renaissance Walk.
In the afternoon left my mother resting at hotel while we climbed to top of Campanile. Less steps and can view dome. Found a wine window Ate gelato at Vivioli- pear Carmel. Toured the leather school shop behind Santa Croce and watched as they stamp initials in gold leaf on purchased items.
Had drinks on terrace of our hotel then dinner at Sophia Loren’s new restaurant. Loved the fried Zucchini flowers!

DAY 9
Early walk to Boboli Gardens. We had purchased the combo ticket for Uffizi/Pitti/ Boboli, however, becoming too much to do with my 85 year olds mother. She is an avid gardener so chose the Boboli only. Empty- had the place to ourselves at 0830 on Saturday morning! On the walk back shopped on the ponte vecchio- my daughter loved the gold shops. Loved Humilis jewelry.
In the afternoon had massages at Soulspace- beautiful spa, shopped Dante’s house book store, and had a glass of vino Rosso at I Fratellini 1875 - drank and set empty glass on wooden wall shelf just like Rick!
Best Dinner in Firenze! Acqua Al 2- get their Assaggio - tasting menu Salad, pasta, Secondi and Dolci! 3 salads, 5 pastas- loved pumpkin bow tie pasta and artichoke risotto, 3 mini steaks- loved balsamic and blueberry! One tasting each fed all three of us plus a bottle of house red wine.

Thank you for posting your ongoing trip report- am living vicariously through you and am glad you all are having such a full and enjoyable time!

What wonderful reports! Thank you so much for taking the time to do this. It's making me even more excited about our upcoming trip!

DAY 10
Last morning in Firenze- the weather overall has been great- the forecast before leaving was pretty rainy- we only had a little rain in line for San Marco Basilica (hotel umbrella- also great cane for mom) and on water taxi going to train station. A little chilly in the mornings and evenings - a good reason to buy scarves.
Walked to the Duomo for mass at 0900- inspirational and got into church without the long line- snapped a few pics before leaving. Shopping on way back to the hotel- saw a falcon and handler in Piazza Signoria. Packed up, checked out, and taxi to the train station- Santa Maria Novella.
Quick train to Rome Termini - about 1.5 hours. Another taxi to hotel - Sant’Anna near St. Peter’s.
Walked into St Peter’s square just to take it all in- line a little long.
It is Sunday afternoon and Rome seems crowded- all out for the passieggata.
We took the Metro from Ottaviano to Spagna to do Rick’s Heart of Rome walking tour backwards. Saw Spanish Steps, Trevi Fountain, Piazza Colonna, and Pantheon. Found out you need a reservation for Pantheon on Saturdays and Sundays. We had a Granita at Tazza de Oro, shopped, people watched, and waited until 7 for dinner at Da Fortunata- mom lived the gnocchi and great focaccia!
Too hard to get Uber so walked thru Piazza Navona- great night time fountain pics. Walked across Bridge of Angels back to Hotel- exhausted.

DAY 11
You will find at hotel breakfasts, the staff will plate your food for the buffets. The hotel Sant Anna has a lovely breakfast room and friendly desk staff.
This morning it rained and we had to walk to the entrance of the Vatican museum with ponchos and one umbrella- cold and rainy, then waited until 0830 to go in.
We had Rick’s audiotour. Post Covid, rainy day, and a Monday all added to the pleasant situation of no crowds. There were even times we were the only people in the Raphael rooms. Sad it was raining too much fir pinecone courtyard. Sistine chapel was roomy without the crowd, but all the side benches are roped off so no chance to sit. Also secret exit to St. Peter’s CLOSED!
Took the long walk out- stopped for lunch at cafe for pasta. Took mom in elevator versus walking down the long spiral ramp.
On the walk home stopped at Old Bridge Gelateria for Profumodo di Sicilia- favorite flavor- orange, lemon, almond, and pistachio.
In the afternoon we had the Necropolis tour scheduled. We checked in at the Ufficio Scavi for the underground tour of St. Peter’s Tomb. The history of the excavation and layers preserved underground is astonishing. Only 7 people on the tour- wore KN95 masks and gloves provided led my American Priest studying in Rome- absolutely amazing- after we went right into St. Peter’s and my mother attended mass. Read Rick’s St. Peter’s tour seeing the tomb of Saints Pope John Paul 2 and John 23- feast today. Saw Michelangelo Pieta up close without a crowd. Timing is crucial- schedule in early mornings and later afternoon. The main thing we missed was the Pantheon- the line was too long and we didn’t time it well.

DAY 12
This morning my daughter and I did an early morning walk- sunrise over St. Peter’s, Bridge of Angels, Piazza Navona, and took pictures at the Trevi- only a few others there.
Breakfast at the hotel.
Completed our Binax Covid Tests (brought a 6 pack) in hotel room- video proctored. We had to do one at a time.
2 of my tests had expired, but if you check the website there is a letter extending all tests to one year. After we were all NEGATIVO, we took an Uber to the Scala Santa, visited St. John Lateran, then strolled to the Colosseum for the Underground Arena tour- booked ahead of time. This only opens up for tickets online 30 days in advance- schedule carefully. Another tour behind the scenes tour that is well worth it!
Tired Mom out and she had no energy for the Forum! We had Apertivos at the Royal with a view of the Colosseum- best cicchetti- mortadella, shrimp, bruschetta! Yum! Aperol Spritz!
Taxi ride back to Hotel with great English speaking driver- great conversation! Best thing he loves about Rome is dinner at his Nonna’s house.
Evening gelato run and sleep.

DAY 13
At sunrise we headed over to the bronze doors to pick up the tickets from the Swiss Guards. Months ago I wrote a letter to receive 3 papal audience tickets and received a letter back with instructions. Happy there was an envelope with my name and 3 pink tickets. After breakfast we headed back over one hour early to go into the new Paolo VI papal audience hall. The line stretched for blocks! The ticket said 9:15, we got thru security and in a little after 9, but they had already started.
Note: get in line EARLY! We still got seats- heard it holds 6000. No one checked the tickets. The Pope addressed the crowd and translated into English, French, German, Polish, etc. and bestowed a blessing. The Pope then greeted the dignitaries at the front, blessed the many bridal couples and finally processed up the center aisle- try to get seats on the aisle.
Afterwards we walked to Piazza Navona- saw the church St. Agnes in Agony and 3 Rivers Fountain. Then onto Pantheon- line still too long for Pantheon and Church of Santa Maria Sopra Minerva closed. Lunch reservation at Armando’s to taste the 4 pastas of Rome (Stanley Tucci ate here).
Excellent meal!
Taxi back to rest and begin packing.
Nighttime walk around Vatican neighborhood.

DAY 14
Last wake up in Italy! Last cappuccino for breakfast. Taxi picked us up and off to Fiumicino Airport. At the Lufthansa desk they asked for our exit negative Covid results, passports, and CDC cards. Took temperatures. Due to business class- took full advantage of Plaza Premium lounge for lunch- outstanding variety of food- best focaccia mortadella sandwiches!
Flight Rome to Munich first. Great snack meal. Took off late then had to run thru airport with 85 year old mother - she was faster than the wheelchair. Passport control questioned passports because no Italy stamp (we had walked right out of Venice airport with no stop) but they let us go- then I was pulled over again for extra security and my running shoes caused a problem, but let go- just cheap New Balance?
Made in time to flight then took off 30 minutes late. No Covid stuff checked in Germany.
Easy flight to Chicago- great meals and drinks. Got mom a wheelchair at the gate and they rolled her thru passport control.
Survived traveling during Covid and Nonna Found Nonna and the Pope in Italy!

Welcome home! Your reports were a joy to read. You did so many of the things we are going to do in Florence and Rome in just 3 weeks (I can't believe it's almost here after all these months of planning). Thank you for taking the time to post. I hope to do the same when I get over there.

It is so wonderful that you got to do this trip! Not many of our mothers at 85 could enjoy such an adventure.

Thanks for sharing.

Great report, thank you so much.