Fans of Florence - What do you like?

I've been thinking a lot about Florence lately... so glad to see this topic pop up! I could write a novel on this subject, so I'll try hard to stay on point. ;o)

I can definitely see why people would disparage Florence as being hot, crowded, etc. It's definitely that during the height of tourist season. Many times I have had to push my way through hordes of tourists to get from point A to point B. Do know that in terms of tourism, Florence has been hosting tourists for close to 1,000 years... it came to prominence due to pilgrims visiting the city during the relic trade years before the Black Plague because it had (arguably) the best relics in the region. So Florence by its very nature is a tourist town, and is very much built that way. However, that doesn't mean it's not awesome. ;o)

First, it looks like you'll be going in the fall. Florence will not be hot, it will be decidedly less crowded and touristy, and you'll get a sense for the "real" city. Fabulous food and wine, amazing architecture and history around every corner, undiscovered, "locals-only" little shops, and the biggest (relatively) little town in Italy.

I love that Florence is really accessible and walkable. It's flat (except for Piazzale Michelangelo and San Miniato across the river), and every neighborhood you enter is more interesting than the last, making a, for example, mile-long walk from behind the Duomo to the train station the shortest and most interesting mile I've ever walked. Also, I'm a sucker for the history. I really don't think it can be underestimated. Early in the morning, before the day-tripping tourists get started, or later on at night, after they've all climbs back on their busses, wandering around the city puts you in the past. You round a corner and there's Michelangelo, hunching and grumbling his way down the alley, covered in marble dust. You round another corner and there's Leonardo da Vinici, dressed to the nines and beautifully coiffed and perfumed, orating to his gaggle of admirers about whatever thing that is catching is imagination that day. Walk down a little back street and Dante is gazing on Beatrice for the first time through the crowd. It's simply one of the most historically "present" cities I've ever been in, especially once the tourists have departed.

Personally, I would choose the third week in September, just because you have a better chance of cooler temps and less tourists. My favorite neighborhoods to stay in are Santa Croce or San Lorenzo. San Lorenzo is close to the train station and Santa Maria Novella (home of the best gelateria in Florence in my estimation), and also close to Mercato Centrale and the big open market. Santa Croce is vibrant and exciting, and right in the heart of everything (a quick walk to Piazza Signore with the Uffizi and the Palazzo Signore and the Ponte Vecchio). I love staying right on the piazza if I can. I would also argue that the Santa Croce neighborhood has some of the best restaurants in Florence, like I' Che' c'e' c'e' on via Magalotti, 11r.

I can pass along more recommendations about one of my favorite cities in the world if you'd like to shoot me a PM. I hope this post somewhat answered your questions though!

We just love the vibe of the city - it is a cozy little city - very walkable. Great food. I would check cruisett for the cruise ship schedule and plan my daytrips around the cruise ship days. The cruise crowds definitely make a difference. We love the area by the Ponte Vecchio and the river - or really anywhere in the old heart!

Christi, thanks for the Cruise ship tip. My husband and I will be in Florence 3-9 Oct this year.

Allora, I sent you a pm

Thanks!

Per square foot, there's probably as much ore more Renaissance art/history/culture in Florence as in any other European city.
If you like that, you'll fall in love with Florence. If not....

Supermercato Conad City at
Via Pietrapiana 42.

You've picked one of my all-time favorite cities. My first visit was 10 days, and that wasn't enough time. Been back many times since and always have had great experiences. I would go in late September rather than early September. I love knowing that I can walk 100 yards in any direction and find amazing art. There are also so many wonderful small museums that have relatively few visitors – the Bargello, the Convent of San Marco, the museum of hard stone mosaics with the original Renaissance tools, fascinating home-museums of life in various periods, etc. i also enjoy wandering into a small church and finding amazingly beautiful art (San Miniato al Monte and the Badia are particular favorites). And there sre great evening concerts in some churches. I also love the experience of wandering through late medieval/early Renaissance passage ways, putting myself in another place and time. Beyond that, there is the central market, great restaurants, gelato… There are also a number of day trips that can be done from Florence, although I've never been able to drag myself away from the city for any of them.

It's a very walkable city, so you can really stay anywhere in the historical center. I particularly like staying either near the Duomo or the Uffizi, because that puts me in the area where I want to spend most of my time. It's nice to be able to go back to my hotel if I want to freshen up in the middle of the day.

We have been to Florence 3 times, and going back for 3 nights with friends in early October.
When they depart, we are staying another 3 nights.
I agree with everything Sherry said.

Florence is the first city I ever visited as a child.
I traveled to the city from a very dark place, my mother's womb. I'm told that I was crying when I arrived, but I didn't arrive by car, therefore I was not crying because I got a ticket for driving into the ZTL, which didn't exist yet. I'm told that I arrived covered with slimy stuff but I don't think it was gelato (although 'placenta' sounds like a flavor you could find at Vivoli's).
It was cold, as I was born in February. in fact I came out a week late from the day I was due. I was simply not ready for the impact of such beautiful city on my zero days old eyes. But I got used to it and that first trip lasted over 27 years.
Since that very first trip ended, I keep going back every year, sometimes multiple times a year.
I don't know if you would value my opinion, but Florence is indeed generally very hot from the end of June to the beginning of September. However it's rather pleasant in Spring and Autumn, while winters are rather cold with temperatures down to the low 30's F at night.
It is crowded especially in high tourist season because the 400,000 residents plus the thousands commuters from out of town are joined by about 12 million visitors a year.
Whether a city is appealing or unappealing to a person depends on personal preferences, however unappealing cities are unlikely to draw the millions of visitors that Florence attracts year after year, therefore your acquaintances whose opinion you value may not represent the majority opinion.

I visited Florence for the first time in September 2011. It was quite hot that year, so I think it's a mistake to assume the weather will be one way or the other; we just can't predict anymore. While I was not a fan of the city itself, there is no denying that the art is fabulous and unequaled, in my opinion. For that reason alone it should not be missed. I would agree that going as late as possible in September would probably be best, at least with regard to the weather. I seriously doubt that Florence would be not be crowded, however.

Any "top" city in Italy is going to be crowded during high and near-shoulder season. Whether they'll be very hot, sort of hot, or not too hot depends on where they are and the usual roll of the weather dice.

And if crowds = touristy, well then, yes, I guess they all are.

But we loved Florence, crowds or no. Compared to what we would call "touristy" in the U.S., I really didn't see any of that beyond some tacky gift shops. There wasn't any "apart" from the fascinating architecture and glorious art: that's why people go to Florence… or should unless they don't have an appreciation for either. If you like history, there's simply oodles of that as well.

Aside from its Renaissance treasures, it does indeed make a very good base for day trips, and is just one more reason to love Firenze!

Allora! What a beautiful tribute to this incredible, charming and beautiful city! I've spent weeks in Florence, and always cry when I leave. What are my favorite parts?: Watching the sun set over Tuscany from Piazza Michelangelo. It's up a very big hill, so take the bus! Sitting in a piazza at night, especially Piazza Signoria listening to the acapella opera singers, who are probably students at the local University. Seeing the fountains lit, and seeing the one that Michelangelo insultingly said "what a waste of perfectly good marble!"

I always rent an apartment in the Santa Croce neighborhood. PM me if you want more info on the apartment. It's two bedroom/two bath with a nice little garden in the back.

My favorite memory, sitting In the little garden of the apartment with my best friend drinking local wine, and listening to the young mother in the apartment above reading her two year old the same stories we American Mothers read: The cow says 'Moo" the duck says "quack" etc......in Italian. Moo is moo in Italian. We felt like we mothers were all Children of the Universe!

There are so many things about Florence. We spent 4 days in October 2010 (BTW, weather was highs of mid-70's & cloudy for the most part), staying at a middle-to-high-end hotel on Via Tornabuoni, and it was magical. Strolling along the Arno, visiting Mercato Centrale, climbing Il Duomo, taking a day trip with a guide to Chianti for a cooking class at a winery. But as described above, there are works of art & remnants of the Renaissance all over, aside from the Uffizi. Across the street from our hotel, the Sassetti Chapel had some of the most beautiful frescoes imaginable. And we walked right in for free.

It is with those magical moments in mind that we are returning in March of next year. Taking the train in from Switzerland via Milan, we will be staying 5 nights at a VRBO apartment near the Santa Maria Novella train station. Prices are about half of what we paid for a hotel in 2010. And as noted, Florence is a wonderful base--we are considering day trips to Venice (2+ hours by train) and Siena (less than 1 hour by bus). But what I want to experience again is the way the little city wakes up in the morning, slow & leisurely except for the bustle at the little cafes, where the workers nip in for an espresso & roll before starting their day. Can't wait!

Thanks everyone for the great input!