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Exploring from Rome vs Naples

Looking for options/input. We will be spending 6 nights in Castro deli Volsci which is halfway between Rome and Naples. Thought is to fly into Rome spend 3 nights there first and then our 6 nights. Undecided if we should then return to Rome and do something based out of there for another 3 nights so we can do a FCO round trip ticket or should we explore Naples and area and fly out of there?
History- we have never been to Naples, have read mixed reviews about it, we have spent brief time in Sorrento/ Capri/ Positano (off a cruise ship). Have been to Pompeii. We have also been to Rome, saw the major sites. We weren’t super enthralled about Rome as a city but so many people are that we feel we should give it another chance. Any place else to consider besides Tuscany which we visited on our previous Italy trip. Finally, not interested in renting a car so would be dependent on public transportation or private driver.

Posted by
7982 posts

The usual advice about Open-Jaw air tickets being wise is not as powerful an argument for two places as close together as Rome and Naples. You don't say where you're from (you haven't even filled in that field in your User Profile), but Naples has far fewer flights to the US than does Rome. Today, airline size is a sort of proxy for reliability, as well. Frecciarossa advance-purchase rail tickets between Rome and Naples are so cheap (if non-changeable and non-cancellable, at the lowest prices) that the high-speed is worth it.

Note that total travel time and "number of seats" the day you fly home is a significant factor in not missing a non-changeable Transatlantic air trip. Remember that the airport train is separate from any return to downtown Rome.

I don't think someone who didn't like Rome would like Naples any better. But it's quite unusual for someone to actively dislike Rome. Perhaps you had unrealistic expectations? (It's not fair for me to speculate about someone else's reactions, I know. But if Rome wasn't magical for you, Naples will not be.) You don't have to share, but what's important about a European visit to your group? Paintings in a museum? Architecture? Diplomacy and war? Food? Beaches? European history? Classical history?

Have you been to Villa d'Este and or Hadrian's Villa? They're available by public transportation from Rome, as is Ostia. Are you going to Caserta Palace on this trip? (I'm sorry we didn't have time for it.) There are four other ancient sites grouped on a big-ticket associated with Pompeii. But I wonder if Pompeii left you cold, too? Do you know the history of Naples, including Lady Hamilton? I was sorry not to have more time in Naples than we did.

Posted by
99 posts

Thank you for your speedy reply. Coming from either NY or Boston. Typically do like cities, especially art, churches, historic sites etc so that is why I am interested in returning to Rome. Great food is always a priority! We are good walkers and like walking tours wherever we are. Enjoyed Pompeii and am considering Herculaneum. I think I would like Naples but maybe a little more worried that my husband won’t. Not familiar with the other spots you mentioned so I will look into them too. Any other thoughts?

Posted by
7982 posts

I did not ask you about why, Castro deli Volsci , but I can guess that it has do do with family history. I avoid renting cars for most of our trips to Europe, but if I were staying in a rural village I would rethink that plan. However, Hadrian's Villa is too far for an easy drive from there, even if it is one of the few ideal "Roman" sites to visit with a car.

BTW, my wife's Amerikansi big multinational company had a plant in Latina, so you should not imagine that you are going to meet Band of Brothers when you go out from Castro deli Volsci. Have you checked busses and so on from there? Have you already engaged a researcher, if you don't have living relatives there? At my age, I would not go here without hotel air conditioning in the summer.

https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/trip-reports/surviving-naples

https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/italy/amalfi-coast-for-5-days-where-to-set-base-from

It is not possible to exhaust Rome in one visit, even for a full week. (I'm a native of New York City, so I kind of like big cities.) I only say this to suggest that you and I may not be speaking the same language about vacations - not a criticism. Although cruises and other destinations have been involved, I'm sure I have slept in Rome on at least four different occasions, and have much left to see.

They are highly fictionalized, but have you seen "The Medici's" streaming series Naples section, and "That Hamilton Woman" film?

Posted by
99 posts

I am a Westchester native, now living Upstate but I still try to get to the City as much as possible. I am a “city” person and have visited many of the major European ones. When we were last in Rome we stayed 3 nights after our cruise (actually the only cruise we have been on so we aren’t cruisers). We look at this as a trip- not a vacation, that being said I usually like to have a 3 day rule for any on spot so we have time to explore, or just be. Casa de Volsci is for a 6 night cooking school, they provide transportation back and forth to FCO. If we do Naples we would try to find a driver.
I am not familiar with the Medici series, I will look into it, but I was an avid viewer of the Borgia series on Showtime. Not sure of the Band of Brothers reference?

Posted by
7982 posts

Of course you are right, I meant The Borgias. All I meant about Band of Brothers is that it is getting harder to find picturesque small villages untouched by time. But you explained that you selected this town for the cooking school, and they even provide transportation. Have they said whether there are places to eat or transportation after class? The fact that they include transportation in the package is a clue about Castro.

Posted by
99 posts

The cooking school is all inclusive including daily excursions to what you refer to as Band of Brothers small villages, historic site tours and dinners in an assortment of local restaurants. Should be wonderful. My main focus here is about adding Naples after or returning to Rome and doing more around there?