Please sign in to post.

Emilia Romagna Lovers, your advice please!

Ciao everyone! I will be taking the new RS 12-day Best of Tuscany tour in early May 2020. The tour starts in Florence and ends in Lucca. I am planning my pre- and post-tour time, for solo travel. I have not yet booked air, and would likely fly into and out of either Rome or Florence, maybe open jaw. My plan is to spend a few days in Rome and Orvieto before the tour, both of which I have visited in the past, After the tour my plan is to travel around Emilia Romagna and Umbria for a good number of days. So I will start here with my tentative plans for Emilia Romagna, with some questions, if you have some advice based on your own experiences.
I recognize the value of having a "base" to settle into, exploring with day trips. I also recognize the hectic pace involved in 1-night stays. Still, on a day trip you often experience a place during its busiest daytime hours, missing out on some of the best times, sunset, evening, sunrise, and early morning. Need to balance I suppose.
1. I would go by train from Lucca to Bologna, where my plan is to spend 5 nights. I am looking at the Casa Ilaria B & B, in the old town, spacious rooms, very positive reviews. Have any of you stayed there? Would you recommend it? Other great ideas for convenient lodging in Bologna, with no car?
2. I certainly want to include some kind of food tour. Italian Days tour includes cheese/ham/balsamic factory tours plus a big luncheon. It is expensive, like $190 pp, but has absolutely rave reviews, with many saying it is truly worth that cost. Do you know this tour, or can you recommend others?
3. I am planning to take day tours by train, at least to Faenza (int'l ceramic museum, etc.) and Ravenna (to re-visit the wonderful mosaics, maybe with a tour or guide this time, to learn more). Has anyone been to Faenza? Can anyone recommend such a tour or guide in Ravenna?
4. This plan would eliminate any day trips to Parma, Ferrara or Modena (I'm NOT especially interested in cars). Do any of you think I should alter my choice of day trips?
5. I would rent a car upon leaving Bologna, stop in Brisighella (would happen to be market day) and head for San Leo, then San Marino. My first thought was to spend one night inside of each town, SL and SM. Then I thought, maybe I should spend 2 nights in one, visiting the other as a day trip. Then I saw some nice inns in the hills, overlooking both SL and SM. Have you been, and any experience and thoughts in that area?
Then I would move on into Umbria, another post on that later.
I am doing my own research, but would certainly appreciate any knowledgeable input!
Grazie amici!

Posted by
3150 posts

I have stayed in both Bologna and Parma and I think that Parma is the better city in which to spend time. It is nicer in which to stroll through the city and I thought it’s tourist sites were better than Bologna. I also think that it has better restaurants than Bologna.

Posted by
26840 posts

I haven't been to Parma, but I loved Bologna's huge historic district. As of 2015 the tourist office had a good walking tour.

I've been to Faenza twice to see the ceramics museum. There's also a significant ceramics festival every two years. Googling should turn up details. Sometimes the local tourist office has a small display of contemporary ceramics; it's worth checking, because the T.O. is in the historic center, which is very attractive though rather small. As I recall, the museum and center are a bit of a walk from the train station--not an issue, just a timing thing to be aware of. I have had no luck finding shops open for browsing, but I suspect that's because I tend to be a slow starter in the morning and may have arrived in Faenza during the afternoon-closing period.

Although I haven't been to Ferrara, several people on the forum have, and they all liked it a lot. It's on my must-go list the next time I'm in Italy. As opposed to San Marino, which no one seems particularly entranced by (though there have been some lovely postage stamps issued...). San Leo I know nothing about.

I stay in cheaper lodgings than you're interested in, so I can't help there.

Posted by
6265 posts

Bookmarking! We're planning on spending about 4 days in Bologna next June, so I'm cadging tips. I do have a reservation at Albergo Centrale, but nothing else is set yet.

Posted by
475 posts

I was in Bologna for five nights in April of this year. The TI is on Piazza Maggiore; it is quite large and offers a wealth of information on Bologna and Emilia-Romagna. I highly recommend their city tour! Our guide provided some restaurant recommendations; you are surrounded by good food in Bologna :). They also sell tickets for a variety of tours, including food tours. You can find further information at bolognawelcome.com or could email them with specific questions.

Our one day trip while in Bologna was to Parma. If I were to plan the trip again I would definitely spend a night in Parma. There are a number of interesting sights (another great walking tour offered through the Parma TI). I believe you can take a food tour with a starting point in Parma. We had no difficulty finding an excellent restaurant for lunch. The historic center is easy to reach on foot from the train station.

I do understand the constraints of time; on this same trip we spent four nights in Ravenna. Given the choice of Ravenna or Parma, Ravenna wins-but Parma is worthy in its own right. In other words, whatever decision you make will be a good one!

The city tourism websites were very helpful for plannning travel in this part of Italy. Also, there is useful information in Lonely Planet and DK Eyewitness guidebooks. Enjoy your planning! We really enjoyed our travels in Emilia Romagna and Umbria.

Posted by
847 posts

I just did five nights based in Bologna this past summer and did day trips to all the places you are considering. One day to Faenza and Brisighella (by train but if you are getting a car it would be better by car), one day to Modena and Parma, one day to Ferrara. I had previously been to all those places except Faenza/Brisighella. We stayed at B&B Ambra in Bologna and I can't recommend it highly enough. It was wonderful. On a previous trip to Bologna I visited Ravenna by train. All those places are easily done by train (except Brisighella but even that was OK). None of those places are so busy that you'd want to avoid being there mid day so they do make good day trips. Bologna is wonderful in the evening and has the best restaurant options so it really does make the most sense to do as you plan and base there. Here is the trip report I wrote on that trip - https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/trip-reports/trip-report-5-weeks-in-italy-croatia-france-summer-2019. It is also here with the photos - https://andiamo.zenfolio.com/f600116703

On a different trip I visited San Leo and San Marino. We spend two nights in San Marino and did San Leo on a day trip. San Marino is very crowded mid day with day trippers so best to be there early mornings and evenings and get out of town mid day. San Leo was not at all crowded mid day so that made a good day trip. Here is the trip report that included those towns. Scroll down to post number 41 to get to the San Leo/San Marino part. https://www.fodors.com/community/europe/a-month-in-northern-italy-mountains-lakes-and-castles-1072263/page3/

Posted by
7181 posts

I haven't been there in years, but I loved Reggio Emilia. It can't be justified for big-name attractions, but the town museum has some minor Emiliglian paintings, and there is a full-size replica of a Baroque theater that may be open for tours. I would go on Market Day, in the morning. While sleeping in Reggio, we went back to Florence on the train one day for a once-a-week villa tour we had only discovered on our Florence days.

In recent history, the city has connections with an elementary education philosophy used in the US too, and (I read ... ) with international art theft rings. I was there several times when it was a center of modern and ballet dance touring, but I think current financial stresses have reduced government support of that, and of the local ATERBalletto company. It's always a problem to get to a Parm. cheese place without a car, but the market usually has tasting. Reggio Emilia always had multiple, exceptionally fine, pizza restaurants, on my past visits.

Posted by
10120 posts

Bologna was our base for about a week ( in a horrible apartment that had what I recognize now were fake reviews). One more important day trip to add--Padua.

Posted by
1286 posts

Three or four years ago we went to Bologna and used it as a base to visit other regional towns. I think we stopped five or six nights and the day-trips were all by railway - Ravenna (unmissable), Modena (nice but not unmissable perhaps, especially as you're not interested in cars), plus Ferrara, which I recall as being very interesting with an impressive castle and variety of other sights. And one other, I've forgotten.

For accommodation we stopped at a fairly bog-standard business hotel about half way between the railway station and the old quarter of Bologna. Whilst I can't remember the name, as a location is was ideal because it's a bit of a walk between Bologna's main central sights and the station so being between them suited us given it was a base and we'd be walking to/from on the station on several days. Mind you, I guess there are taxis and buses instead of walking if you do stop more centrally. I only mention the distance because of the recent Girona point about walking from/to the station- it isn't that far, though.

We had one day "dedicated" to Bologna itself and, of course, every evening after our day-trips, which was great for enjoying dinner with its famous food. But, on reflection, we'd have preferred a second full day just for Bologna. Its specific "wow" sights might be easily seen, but it had a nice, gritty feel with the student "vibe", cafes, protests, graffiti and so on which made it ideal for just pottering around without feeling like being in a theme park.

Posted by
642 posts

I live nearby Bologna and spend a lot of time in Bologna. I love Bologna and have from the first visit. In the past few years it has become discovered by a greater number of tourists. Ferrara has nothing to do with the cars. It does have a castle and museum and LOTS of bicycles but I prefer Parma to both Modena and Ferrara. Bologna is known as the food capital for the area but there are some really good restaurants in Parma. Ravenna (I am going back next weekend) I don't think you need a tour. It is easy to see everything on your own. I like the towers in San Marino but it is super touristy in my opinion. I am glad that I went there because the views are amazing but it was packed with tourists when we went in April.

Posted by
2455 posts

Thanks for all this input, I would value more. Looks like I need to adjust my plans to include Parma, and continue thinking about San Leo and San Marino. Just too much goodness over there in Italia, no?

Posted by
495 posts

What can I say, living in Emilia-Romagna is that your plan make sense.
Some suggestions:
1. An accommodation in Bologna in the historical center usually is very interesting. If you want to do several day-trips by train is better stay a little closer to the train station, otherwise near Piazza Maggiore is probably more charming.
2. Is a group tour and the cost is not high. There are other tour operators who arrange food tours, but tailor made and private, so a little more expensive. For example Italygate.
3. Faenza and the ceramic museum worth for sure a visit. You can decide to do this visit even as stop over with your car the day you are going to Brisighella or San Leo.
4. About Modena is not definitively only cars. First of all the Cathedral is UNESCO World Heritage being one of the most important example of the Romanic style. The museum (Gallerie Estensi) is one of the most important in Italy, not only for painting and sculptures, but even for books, coins and other "memorabilia". If you like ceramic in Modena can be found some of the best clay sculptures of the Emilian Renaissance made by Mazzoni and Begarelli (in Cathedral, in San Francesco and San Pietro churches). Is even a very interesting province for food, with something than cannot be produced or found in other part of Emilia (like Traditional Balsamic Vinegar, or the Borlenghi).
Talk of Parma and Modena I daresay to keep an ear about music. We are in the land of Verdi and Pavarotti.
5. If you are into food in Romagna I suggest you to visit a production of Squacquerone cheese. I suggest even to try the "Fossa" cheese.

Posted by
116 posts

As part of a one month stay in Italy this past August (we've traveled to Italy before) we spent two weeks in Bologna. It was a wonderful destination in and of itself and for day trips. We stayed on Via Romana (think Williamsburg, Brooklyn) cool vibe neighborhood that comes alive at night at a vrbo apartment rental 474798. Its a two bed/two bath apartment which may be too large for you but it was the best rental we've ever stayed in and the most reasonable. We've been renting apartments throughout the world for the last 10 years. There is lots to explore in Bologna and if you can slow your pace and absorb the city you might just feel like a local. Bologna is one of the least touristy places we've ever stayed in Italy.

One of the best day trip tours we took was the Get Your Guide Parma Delicacies Tour: Factories, Tastings & Lunch. It was outstanding. We took an early morning train to Parma and did the full day tour and then stayed in Parma for a couple of hours before taking the train back to Bologna.

Go and enjoy!

Posted by
3150 posts

Just too much goodness over there in Italia, no?

That’s why I have trip # 10 planned!

Posted by
71 posts

I spent 4 nights in Bologna and absolutely loved it. I arrived after having spent three weeks in Tuscany and it was so refreshing to be in a city that didn't feel overwhelmed by tourists!

While I was there, I did the Italian Days food tour and it was amazing. It is absolutely worth the cost. I had such a fun group and, since I was travelling without a car, got to see places I never would have visited otherwise. It is very professionally run and I recommend it to everyone I know going to Bologna. I was travelling solo so it was also nice to have people to share a meal with after many, many meals eaten alone.

In Bologna itself, I loved just walking around, peeking into churches, and, of course, sampling the delicious food. Another favourite activity was walking along the arcades up to the Sanctuary of the Madonna di San Luca.

Posted by
6265 posts

Claire, thanks for the tip about the Bologna food tour. We're going to be there next June for 4 or so nights.

Posted by
3586 posts

I’ve scanned the replies, and didn’t see any mention of the fabulous Duomo and baptistery of Parma. They, alone, put Parma near the top of my list, just after Ravenna.

Posted by
475 posts

To add to Rosalyn's marvelous advice regarding Parma--a visit to the Duomo and Baptistry are included in the Parma city tour.