I had two favorite spots in SML. One was a wine bar that was recommended in the RIck Steves Italy guidebook. I tore the SML pages out of the book when I traveled and then didn't keep them, so I can't tell you the name of it, but it was just above the harbor. The wine was wonderful and it came with a plate of food that could almost make a light dinner. I loved this place! If you're going up an incline to get to it, that's the spot.
The other place may have also been in the book: Del Baffo. Here's what I wrote in my trip journal: "A find. Real old-timey Italian place run by pazzo family, maybe 3 generations. Old photos on walls, tons of regulars coming in." The woman who served me put up with my primitive Italian. Certainly not fancy but good food and nice people. I ate there twice.