I've been asked by a couple of people on this board to briefly describe the tour of early Christian mosaics that I did in Rome. I packed eight churches into one intense day of sight-seeing, and I recommend it only for those who really enjoy mosaics. I used the Eyewitness Travel Guide to Rome's suggested "Three Hour Tour of Rome's Best Mosaics" and I highly recommend that book, although it took me WAAY more than three hours to do. I took a combination of bus and Metro from our apartment near Campo de' Fiori to San Giovanni Metro stop, getting there around 9:30. The first church was San Giovanni in Laterano (along with its beautiful cloister and the baptistery next door). On to Santo Stefano Rotondo, then Santa Maria Domnica. Next was San Clemente, a three-layered highlight of a church. By that point, I needed to do lunch, so I found a pizzeria near Santa Maria Maggiore, which was my next stop. After SMM, I went to San Pietro in Vincoli (which doesn't actually have any mosaics, but it was nearby). Next was Santa Pudenziana which has the oldest mosaics, done in 390 AD and amazingly naturalistic, in contrast to the more Byzantine style of the other mosaics. This church was followed by my favorite – Santa Prassede. Jaw dropping, including the tiny tiny Chapel of St. Zeno. I had missed the official hours for San Martino ai Monti because I took so much time at the previous churches. If you decide to do this, study the hours that the churches are open and WATCH THE TIME. I hope this was helpful.
Posted by
Tel Aviv
15771 posts
Many thanks, Michael. I have copied this as the first page of my file for my upcoming Italy trip. I can hardly wait. Did you also see mosaics elsewhere?
Posted by
Catadupa Alamere, CA
515 posts
WOW Copied Pasted into Evernote Will definitely use this Thanks But now we expect something as good as this from you every day
Posted by
Toledo
653 posts
Very important to know opening/closing times. Other cities with mosaics: Ravenna! I should probably make "Ravenna" my middle name. Fabulous for mosaics, you can watch them being restored at the laboratory where mosaic restorers are trained. Another place not to miss if you really love mosaics is Palermo - there are several churches with fantastic mosaics in and around the city. A trip to Cefalu to see what I consider the most beautiful image of Christ in the world (and I've seen hundreds) is in the Cathedral at Cefalu. The mosaics in Sicily date from a later period than those in Ravenna or some of the churches in Rome.
Posted by
OP
Seattle, WA, USA
7737 posts
I didn't mention that I also threw in Palazzo Massimo/Museo Nazionale Romano in there as well. It's not too far from SMM. If you want to see some of the very first Christian mosaics, book the Vatican Scavi tour. As Rick says in one of his books, to really enjoy Italy (especially Rome), be a Catholic while you're there. Historically, one of the notable things in these earlier mosaics is the complete absence of any depiction of the crucifixion. That didn't become a major image until sometime after 1100, I believe. Instead, you see a lot of Christ sitting on a representation of the world, lots of rivers, clouds, and sheep.
Posted by
St. Louis, MO USA
1976 posts
Michael - what a great list of churches, thank you! Just one more reason to return to Rome (and Italy)! The image of the beardless Christ as shepherd (and of his faithful as sheep) was very popular in early Christian art; it isn't until later in the Middle Ages (Romanesque period) that we see images of the bearded Christ who is no longer depicted as a shepherd. Around 1100, as you said, in Italy and Spain painted wooden 2D and slightly 3D Crucifixions appear.
Posted by
Texan in CA
4412 posts
Michael, I know you've got fantastic photos...;-) Thanks - this is right up my alley, and I'll be there within the month! My furthur research has made my heart stop - those mosaics!!!
Posted by
OP
Seattle, WA, USA
7737 posts
Thanks, Eileen. I realized I should bundle some of those photos together of some of the churches I visited that day: Roman churches Unfortunately not all churches allowed photographs.