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Driving in Tuscany for first-time visitors to Italy

We are a group of 8 visiting Italy, for the first time this October, before flying on to Athens for a cruise. (Our 30th anniversary trip!!)
We are flying into Rome (because it was cheaper than Florence), so we then plan to take the train to Florence, get a car and drive to a place in Chianti to be our home base to spend 4 days touring the countryside. The more I read about driving in Italy, the more concerned I get! Is it a better idea to stay in Florence and do tours/day trips? We wanted to be able to get out and explore the area at our own pace, but getting away from Florence with a rental car sounds so hard. We are all experienced drivers but it seems like there are so many regulations to learn about.
Is there a better plan for a group who has 5 days to explore the region?

Posted by
8338 posts

The rental company will give you directions on how to get out of Florence avoiding the ZTL's. Let me just warn you that the larger cities often have radar cameras that issue speeding tickets up to a year after your trip. Just abide by the speed limits.

Driving in Tuscany is not at all difficult. The roads are well paved and well marked. They are, however, just a little crooked and hilly. You've got a 4 lane highway going south out of Florence that goes down to Poggibonsi and Siena, and small hilltowns are on both sides of the highway.

Staying out in the countryside in an agriturisimo is much more preferred to staying in a crowded big city. We were in Florence (and Rome) two weeks ago, and both cities' most popular travel sites were just too busy. There again, we've been to both cities (and Venice) many, many times.

Posted by
11 posts

Thank you, David! I see you’re in Alabama….we’re from S.C. and southern girls are afraid of big cities. We have an agriturismo booked for 4 nights and it looks wonderful, I just wasn’t sure about driving.
So do you suggest renting in Rome and driving, or riding the train to Florence and then renting a car? The place we have booked is 30 miles below Florence.

Posted by
1035 posts

Driving in Tuscany is easy. We used Waze for directions and did not have any issues with ZTL zones. The only challenge we had was parking. I noticed that you have a group of 8, we had 6 and had to rent a mini-van. For a group of 8, especially if you have luggage, you may want to look at renting two cars instead of a larger van. In addition, you will need an International Drivers License which you can get at AAA.

Posted by
156 posts

Another idea would be to pick up your rental cars in a smaller town rather than Florence, assuming Florence is not an intended destination for you.

Arezzo and Chiusi have Avis-Budget car rental locations near their respective train stations which have direct trains from Rome. Those stations aren’t on the high-speed Rome-Florence train line so you’d spend a little more time on the train to get there but you avoid city driving entirely.

The other things that stood out to me driving: lots of gravel driveways, and some gravel roads. The main roads are paved and not too difficult. An SUV turned out to be quite useful for the gravel.

Posted by
16133 posts

8 people need 2 large cars or 3 economy/compact cars.
One van is unlikely to do the job once you factor in the luggage. Also one van costs as much as 3 or 4 economy cars to rent, and it is difficult to navigate in the narrow roads and town streets of Tuscany.
Don’t worry about ZTL (Limited Traffic Zones in historical centers of town where only residents with permits can drive often enforced by camera). ZTL are well marked and preceded by the “No Motor Vehicle Allowed” sign which looks like this: ⭕️. When you visit a town do not enter the city walls preceded by that sign, rather look for a parking lot 🅿️

More worrisome are the speed cameras, aka Autovelox machines, which are ubiquitous. So make sure you observe the speed limit. The speed limit sign is a number inside the red circle sign above. Most roads in Tuscany (aside from the freeways) have a 70 km/h speed limit outside of built up areas, or 50 km/h inside built up areas. It is important that you download the Waze app on your phone and use it for navigation. It uses specific symbols for speed cameras.
https://www.waze.com/wiki/UnitedKingdom/Speed_Cameras

For the purpose of your trip I would probably rent in Rome. If you go straight from the airport then you might as well rent at the airport. However if you first intend to stay in Florence a few days, then it makes sense to rent in Florence.

Posted by
555 posts

So do you suggest renting in Rome and driving, or riding the train to Florence and then renting a car? The place we have booked is 30 miles below Florence.

If you have the flight back to US from Rome, rent the car at the airport could be a good idea. Between Rome and southern Tuscany there are several places where to stop, so even the journey from airport to your agriturismo will be much more interesting that not the boring train travel. And probably the train tickets aren't cheaper than a day more with the car.
I'm agree with Marco: 2/3 cars are a better solution.
One thing to have in mind: on route, mainly while you are crossing a town or village, is very easy that one car get stuck in the traffic and lost the previous one(s). Be sure that every driver has a GPS and know the next destination, so if you get lost you reach the place without several stops.

Posted by
11 posts

Thank you all SO much for your input! I will go with renting the cars in Rome and drive up from there. I had considered that but just wasn’t sure what to do. Thanks!!

One more question: if we leave the Chianti area in our cars and want to spend a few short hours in Florence, what’s the best plan with these cars? I guess we’d just find somewhere on the outskirts of town to park, and then take public transportation into the city?? Some in the group want to see the “Statue of David”.

Posted by
16133 posts

If you stay in the Chianti you can drive to either of the following parking lots then take transit into the city center.

This is parking Europa. If you take the Chianti road into Florence it requires no freeway.
https://maps.app.goo.gl/rfVqoZxeeNZm73yS7?g_st=ic
From here you take bus no. 23 to Piazza San Marco, just steps from the David

This is Villa Costanza Parking. To get here you need to take the toll freeway A1 from Firenze Sud or Firenze Impruneta A1 entrance (depending on the route you take).
https://maps.app.goo.gl/DRvvHX1qanFzMzhF9?g_st=ic
From here you take the light rail T1 tramway to the train station. From there it’s about 15 min walk to the Academy of Fine Arts.

Posted by
11608 posts

What are you reading about driving in Tuscany that is bothering you? Relax! We always drive there on our trips, no problems at all. We rent cars innRome or at FCO.

Posted by
30 posts

We stayed in Greve both trips, this last trip in June we came and went out of Florence with a van and 6 people. Florence is a bit of city/traffic driving to get in/out of the city, but it's nothing nutty except for the people on the scooters who don't seem to care about lanes. We returned a car in Rome at the airport once and it was no problem - just like a rental car at any other major airport. Cars are kept in parking garages most times in the city (if you are arriving by train in a major city and then walking to the car rental) and the rental offices are not always where the car is just FYI.

Driving in Italy is simple and (any incoming speeding tickets from cameras not withstanding) we really enjoyed our time in the country and being able to explore in the car at our own pace. The roads are twisty so anyone that gets motion sick should either drive or sit in the front seat!

Our first trip when we stayed in Greve we were advised to leave the car in the small town and take the local bus into Florence for the day. This was great but the last bus was pretty early that day so we would not have been able to stay in Florence for dinner if we'd wanted to using this strategy. The twisty roads are fun and be aware that Waze WILL get you there but sometimes it's routes are down some really small roads so use google maps as well, and take a visual look at the roads it wants you to take before committing! Roundabouts are common but sometimes the map apps are a bit weird in how they tell you to take the '2nd left' but the arrow doesn't quite match! It just adds to the adventure so don't let it stress you out! Have a great time!!

Posted by
2420 posts

hey hey jneave
you got lots of advise about cars, rentals, where to go and where to not go.
make sure ALL drivers get an IDP (international driving permit) at AAA. it's a translation of your driver's license.
AAA.com
under travel, click IDP
it's okay to get "antsy" about driving and first time to italy, but the folks here gave you "instructions/directions". hope this will help you. once you're there things will go better. go enjoy the countryside at your own pace, don't want to be herded like cattle.

make sure you check dates/times rental car returns are opened/closed. where are you flying from to athens? we did a greek island cruise few years back and loved it. cheers to a shot of ouzo!!
the complete guide to visiting chianti under tripsavvy.com
gives you people/places/things to see and do.
educated-traveller.com/ wine windows of florence
if in florence, check out these renovated wine windows and it's history behind them.
after italy, during cruise, on flight home you'll all be planning that next trip, LOL. see another part of italy
aloha

Posted by
7229 posts

You might consider taking the bus from Greve in Chianti to Florence rather than driving/ parking 3 cars

Posted by
11 posts

In reference to: What are you reading about driving in Tuscany that is bothering you? Relax! We always drive there on our trips, no problems at all. We rent cars innRome or at FCO.

“Suki”..…I’m not nervous about driving in Tuscany. We live in the country and I’m used to curvy, gravel or dirt roads, as well as well-maintained roads…..I’m nervous about having a car in the city (Florence or Rome), but I think I can avoid that with all these great suggestions! I was just over-cautious about the areas we aren’t supposed to drive in.
Thanks again for ALL your ideas and guidance.

Also, “Princess”….
We will be going on a 10 day cruise to Egypt, Turkey and the Holy Land! Really looking forward to seeing as much as we can!!

Posted by
20 posts

My husband & I did about the same trip a few years ago. We flew into Pisa & rented a car. I was terrified thinking about driving around Tuscany for 5 days . But it was so much fun. With GPS it’s so easy! We stayed in San Gimignano, which is a must see. From there we drove to so many little towns. We had the best time. You’ll be fine! That will be your best option for see all the little towns in Tuscany. I did receive a parking ticket after I got home. I had no idea what it was for but they had a picture of the little fiat we rented so I paid it. Have fun!

Posted by
16618 posts

Some in the group want to see the “Statue of David”.

Just addressing this part of the previous post:
The Galleria Dell' Accademia (where Michelangelo's original "David" is housed) is one of Florence's most-visited attractions. You don't say when your trip will be but if it's during the busiest season, your traveling companions will want to book tickets in advance. They will be purchased by specific entry day and time slot :O)

https://www.galleriaaccademiafirenze.it/en/
'
Official ticketing site:
https://www.b-ticket.com/b-Ticket/uffizi/default_eng.aspx.html

Posted by
11 posts

Thank you, Kathy! We’ll be there during the first half of October.

Posted by
11 posts

You all have been so kind to offer detailed suggestions. You have really put my mind at ease.

May I ask one more question? It’s close to a 10 hour flight from the east coast to Rome. We’ll arrive early in the morning, get the car, and get on the road…..but we will need to EAT breakfast. Any suggestions for a good place to eat before we get on the open road towards Chianti ???

Posted by
154 posts

Unless you are accustomed to and comfortable with jet lag, you may want to consider staying one night in Rome before trying to drive; especially driving for a few hours.

For us, jet lag the first day is tough and we would not consider driving the first day. We are traveling to Italy in September / October and arriving in Rome via a direct flight from JFK. We are staying overnight in Rome and then traveling via high speed train the next day to Salerno, renting a car and driving for one hour to visit friends and family. Point being, arriving in a different country, renting a car, then driving for a few hours is a lot of logistics for day one of an international travel.

Posted by
11 posts

We are hoping to sleep some on the plane since we’ll be flying overnight. Either way, we arrive at 8:15 am so we’ll have to do something. We wouldn’t be able to check into a hotel that early.
We have made the 10 hour flight to Hawaii and went to the beach when we arrived. Hopefully we’ll be able to drive to where we’re going before we crash.
I just know we’ll need to eat before we get out of town.

We are returning to Rome after 5 days to spend a couple of days seeing the highlights there.
For sure, we won’t have enough time to see everything on this trip.

Posted by
16133 posts

The airlines always serve breakfast just before landing. If you need more, have a quick and small Italian style breakfast (cappuccino and a small pastry/croissant, followed by a caffè espresso for an extra jolt), at the airport when you arrive, then get the car and drive straight to your destination. I don’t know where you are staying in Tuscany but it won’t be more than 3+ hours from FCO. Eating an American style (i.e. big) breakfast (which you could also do at one of the eateries inside the airport) and then get behind the wheel is the biggest mistake you could make. A full stomach will make you sleepy. If you hit the road upon arrival you can be in the Chianti in time for lunch, the most important meal in Italy. If you absolutely get hungry along the way you can stop at any rest stops along the freeway (AREA DI SERVIZIO). Rest stops along Itslian freeways are fully equipped with restaurants, a small supermarket, coffe bar, fuel stations, restrooms, shower facilities, at some locations even hotel.

Posted by
11948 posts

We have made the 10 hour flight to Hawaii and went to the beach when we arrived. Hopefully we’ll be able to drive to where we’re going before we crash.

A Freudian slip?

No idea which Hawaiian island you have been to, but driving from the airport to the beach on any of them is decidedly different than driving from Rome to Florence ( Chianti region)

Driving 15-20 miles on a familiar style highway with road signs in English and driving 150+ miles on Italian roads with non-English signs is not an apples to apples comparison.

Posted by
11 posts

Thanks again, Roberto……this is very true. We’ll just grab something quick.

Joe32………I was meaning…….we’ve felt like going to the beach after that long flight to Hawaii because we were able to sleep on the plane….and maybe we will feel like driving before we get so sleepy that we can’t drive anymore. “Crash” was meant as a quick way to say “run out of steam”. Not meaning a literal accident. I wasn’t referring to driving to the beach.

Anyway…..I didn’t realize they’ll have breakfast on the plane. We’ll grab something quick and be on our way.
Thanks again.

Posted by
5097 posts

Full disclosure, I drive on arrival after a flight--if it's around an hour or so, if it's a straight shot. I would never plan on doing a three-hour plus drive on windy (i.e., sleep-inducing) roads--remember you'll need at least two capable drivers or a van driver.
There is little guarantee of getting sleep on a plane, there could be turbulence, a crying baby, etc. The one time I diverged from my plan to not drive more than an hour and not stop en route, I ended up in a dangerous situation. We're all stressing it for a reason.
I would consider taking the train to Florence and driving from there--the train is perfect for napping! There are even some direct trains from FCO.
Okay plea over, but as for driving in Tuscany, once you understand ZTL, you're all set!

Posted by
11 posts

valadephia.....Trust me, I appreciate every bit of advice!

Since we're going on the cruise once the trip to Italy is over, luggage is a main concern for us. The cruise is for 10 days, and I know we'll overpack, we always do. I was a little concerned about taking all the luggage on the train, then having to get it all to the rental cars. I guess I was trying to remove a step, but I certainly see where you're coming from!

Posted by
5097 posts

Hmmm, that will be a major consideration for car choice. Not sure if a van would hold eight plus luggage, and two cars with four each will be a stretch as well. It is not advised to leave a car parked with luggage in the trunk in certain places.
I am ignorant about cruises--do they offer laundry service? That is how I deal with it on land.

Posted by
11 posts

They do offer laundry but its these "dressy" nights that mess up your packing on a cruise. We enjoy dressing up for dinner at least once but that requires a suit for him and a dress for me. That suit adds to your luggage, for sure.

I think I have the car situation figured out. It's so cheap to get smaller cars so we may get 3 cars and use two of them to carry 2 people and luggage.....then we can just leave one of those parked when we're out and about.

Thank you all for easing my mind about driving. We live at the foothills of the mountains so winding, steep roads are comfortable for us. Driving in the city is what is more challenging. Lugging all this luggage on a train doesn't sound very appealing.

I think we'll drive from Rome and switch drivers if we need to. We'll be tired, for sure, but we'll also be excited and running on adrenaline.

Posted by
1223 posts

If you intend to switch off drivers, be sure that EVERY potential driver brings a valid drivers license AND an international drivers permit (that you get at an AAA office). Each potential driver will need to show these at the rental office and have their name attached to the specific rental car that they might drive.

Posted by
3 posts

FWIW, I frequently drive immediately after landing in Rome when visiting my family on the other coast (I land at FCO usually in the 8-10AM timeframe). I find this much preferable to resting first because the drive kills most of the afternoon and gets me past the initial lag right after the thrill of arrival wears off.

I find it much easier after the drive to stay up later, have a proper dinner at the right time, then go to bed at a reasonable time and avoid jet lag almost entirely.

Posted by
1 posts

Hi there, I just got back from Tuscany about a month ago. We were there for 10 days coming from Ireland. Driving is fine there but the Italians drive like crazy. They are unpredictable despite what people might say. Some cities, like Pisa/Lucca people will walk out in front of you, cars/bicyles going wrong direction etc. It's an assault on the senses!! The road surfaces leave a good bit to be desired. On back roads there can be poor road surface and breaks in the road. Also, dual carriageways - we took one south from Livorno to Grosetto and the right lane surface was almost undrivable. The left lane was fine but faster traffic approaches quickly behind. It's probably because trucks use the right lane - hence the degraded surface.

I was reading an older post (2017) on this site about the nightmare of parking fines/traffic violations for rental car drivers. There were a lot of self-righteous replies to the poster. However, I would empathise with the poster. Italian drivers do pretty much what they want and yet it's the unwitting rental car driver who receives fines in the post. To me this is a kind of institutionalised corruption. They seem keen to catch you with silly fines. I've driven in France lots of times with little to no problem. Spain, Portugal too. This Tuscany trip, I've already received 4 violations by email and a charge from the rental company for "handling" them. It might be that the traffic is so chaotic that you find it hard to even see the warning signs in places.

I drove in Sicily previously and received one fine. It seems to have got worse unless it's just the Tuscany region perhaps.

It took some of the good out of what should have been great trip. Despite that we enjoyed the region but found many things over-priced vastly relative to the cost of living in Italy.

Anyway, take care on the roads. Use trains/public transport in bigger cities and park at the edges I would say. Also, be careful with toll tickets on motorway. The machine swallowed one of mine and wanted to charge me 60euro!!

Posted by
16133 posts

Wesleymoyan.
Tell me exactly how the speed cameras or the ZTL cameras can distinguish an Italian driver from an unwitting rental car driver. I want to buy those “smart cameras”. They might be the product of some extraterrestrial artificial intelligence sh*t.
I’m not asking for myself, but for my friends and family in Italy who also collected several fines on their own cars, not rented ones.