The car rental office at the port opens at 8:30, and I believe it takes an hour and half to get up to Orvieto. My question is which town to hit first? Should we do Civita and have lunch there, heading to Orvieto after? Or should we hit Orvieto first and have lunch there, heading to Civita afterwards? It will be on a Sunday in late June. After that we are returning the car to FCO and staying at the Hilton near the hotel.
Any suggestions on timing would be appreciated.
Well I have only anecdotal experience from my visit to these two towns in October of 2013, and I advise going to Civita first, for these reasons. I traveled to Orvieto from Rome, by train, on a mid-Sunday. I wanted to visit Civita at least briefly, and arranged for a car and driver to take me there from Orvieto when I arrived mid-afternoon. The plan was for the driver to park and go with me to visit Civita for a couple of hours. However, there were so many Italian tourists at Civita on a Sunday afternoon, from Rome I imagine, that all the parking spots anywhere near the pedestrian bridge were taken, and the driver needed to drop me off and then meet me later, after my visit. I returned to Orvieto to stay the night in the very late afternoon, and the late day sunlight on the facade of the famous Duomo was just spectacular! Much better than early in the day. Based on that, my guidance is to go to Civita first, trying to beat the crowds of Romans, who may still be asleep in the morning, then continue on to Orvieto for that late afternoon and dinner.
Ooh. I didn't realize it got so crowded. That's a great point. I don't need parking hassles! Thanks!
Most folks here suggest using ViaMichelin for driving-time estimates but note that it tends to be optimistic. It gives 1 hr. 51 min. for the drive from Civitavecchia to Orvieto, 33 minutes to Civita di Bagnoregio, and 1 hr. 36 min. back to Civitavecchia. So you're looking at about 4 hours of driving with no padding allowed for VM's reported optimism.
I hope you get some additional responses, because I admit to a strong preference for Orvieto. Orvieto has actual sights (wonderful cathedral and a couple of museums), plus a number of other things to see. It's a rather large hill town with multiple good restaurants. Civita di Bagnoregio is atmospheric but depopulated. It's a bit like visiting a stage set, though the buildings are indisputably authentic.
Personally, I'd go to Orvieto first and figure if I didn't get to Civita, so be it. If you are firm in your desire to see both, I suggest going to Civita first so you can relax and spend whatever time you have remaining in Orvieto, which (meals aside) will need far more time. But understand that the food options in Civita and in Bagnoregio itself are probably not as good as what you can find in Orvieto.
I agree with acraven. When in Orvieto, be sure to visit the church of San Giovenalw, the recently-restored church at the opposite end of the city from the Duomo. Great views of the valley.
Although I haven't been to Civita (di Bagnoregio? is that what you're talking about?), we did stop at Viterbo on our way to Orvieto. Viterbo pales beside Orvieto, but it has a number of historical places to see, and is a charming, attractive town. It was relatively easy to park, and a level walking experience. Allow the most time for Orvieto. It's a nice introduction to the area that includes Tuscany.
Of course these things change, but we couldn't get any food after arriving late at the FCO Hilton. So eat before your check-in. Regarding lunch, it can take a long time to eat lunch it Italy. I'd be cautious about a serious sit-down on a day when you're trying to cram in your last day of touring. I wish I could tell you how to predict that a restaurant might offer "American-speed" service from the outside.
Edit: No one has yet mentioned the possibility that you'll get a car that makes it impossible to HIDE the vast amount of cruise luggage you have. That is a big risk, garage or street space alike. And you need to read the many posts here about insurance choices, ZTLs, IDPs, and so on. (Not arguing against a car - you need it for these plans.)
This question provokes me to contribute my occasional bemused opinion of Civita d B. For reasons best known to himself, RS started hyping that nothing little hamlet a few years ago. Suddenly people started thinking it should be on their "must-see" list. The only thing notable about it is that it sits on what we in California would call a butte, that is slowly being eroded. Sometime in the future, it will collapse. If you must see it, driving to the Bagnoreggio end of the pedestrian bridge will give you all the view you need.
Orvieto, on the other hand, has more than enough to fill your day. Check "Things to do in Orvieto" on TA for a list. The Duomo, both outside and in, is stunning. Very near it is a small museum of Etruscan artifacts, just to name a couple. Good restaurants, gelaterias, etc.
By the way, it might be well to have your main meal at midday, to avoid being stuck with airport offerings when you arrive at FCO.
Yes, Orvieto is the main attraction, but my teens fell in love with the pictures of Civita de Bagnoregio and really want to make a stop there. Since we have no real time limit that day, it seems do-able, although I'd like to have the car returned by dark, which is about 8:30-9:00.
Good for your teens! I fell in love with pictures and RS video as well. It is stunning to see from afar and charming to walk around. The day we were there, there was a Palio with donkeys in the square. When you see the size of the square you will have a laugh!
There are few restaurants, so perhaps plan on lunch in Orvieto. We took the back route and when you see Orvieto, again, the view is car stopping! Allowing your teens to make plans gives them a better appreciation of the trip. Perhaps you can drop your luggage at the Hilton prior to driving to Civita. You might also look at eating dinner in Fiumicino, which we did one time. I don't remember the name, but the owner came to pick us up!
In fairness to Rick, I don't think he started hyping Civita di Bagnoregio recently. I think it was still a (semi-)living town when be started including it in his guidebook. It may well have been in the first edition. I guess it's a bit difficult to contemplate downplaying it at this point, especially since I believe it's included on at least one of the Italian tours.
