Dolomites - Sudtirol - Language?

Based on the only problem I had being understood when buying a bus ticket back to Bolzano from Ortisei and some hikers I met on Seceda (one who was wearing a Chicago Cubs baseball hat a souvenir from a visit here) I would focus only on basic Italian for where you are planning to go. Signage is in both Italian and German but you are still in Italy.

In Urtijëi/Ortisei/St Ulrich the dominant language is Ladin, spoken by ca 85% of the population according to wikipedia. But I can understand if that is not the language of your choice, in which case I'd suggest German. It is the largest minority language and if you venture out of the Ladin-speaking area German is the largest language spoken in the rural areas. Kastelruth/Castelrotto e.g. is 80% German speaking.

In this area, Ladino is what the natives speak among them selves and at home, but locals are equally comfortable in German and Italian. As was explained to me, in school, German was used to teach math and science, and Italian for literature, culture and social sciences. Seasonal workers are likely to speak Italian mainly. English is also widely understood, as that is the International standard language. Lots of people from Slovenia visit here as it is right next door, as well as other Eastern European (oops. Central European).countries.

I've been several times and, in my experience, it is mostly German. As mentioned, many of the signs and stuff are both in Italian and German (Sexton/Sesto, Seis/Siusi etc.). It’s a bit amusing to me when Italians travel in their own Country to Südtirol without any German language skills, and struggle to communicate. It was part of Austria-Hungary until 1918-1919 after WWI.

In a number of visits their English worked fine in all commercial establishments, and most other places. All signs are in both German and Italian.

I heard Ladin and German more than Italian. However, don't sweat, as English is well understood.

mchpp, as an Italian, it is not so amusing as it looks. I am old enough to remember times when Italian was consider the invasors' language and in side valleys they pretended not understanding it 60 years after the war was over. Still a couple of decades ago, I remember waiting forever a beer in a bar in Caldaro/Kaltern, till I reordered it in German - after that I went on commenting in German on the service and the beer came very quickly. When Italian is not good enough, we think: but the money they get from Rome, that is good enough! - However, a non-Italian tourist is nowhere perceived as an invading power and will be answered whatever language he/she is speaking.

If you are also going to Milan and Venice, brush up on your Italian. No need to confuse yourself. Italian is all over South Tyrol, although not the dominant language in most cases.

Lachera, thank you for brining that to my attention. I probably should have figured that out with my own observations. Consider me educated. What do you recommend? My knowledge is several years old.

We should add that South Tyrol German, while not impenetrable as Swiss German, is quite different from standard German. Yesterday on Corriere della Sera there was the story of an Italian (female) medical doctor from Sicily that was given a practice to run near Brunico. Mind you, she had studied in Vienna and she had passed the examination in German language compulsory for all public employement in South Tyrol. She has given up the practice because she could not get her patients to speak an understandable German. She could get along in Bolzano and Bressanone but not in Brunico.

To echo lachera’s comment I had a university friend from Germany who told me that when traveling to that region he spoke Italian because their German was very hard to understand for him.

I am Italian and I’ve never had a problem in Ortisei speaking Italian at hotels and restaurants. And all the Romanian and Albanian waiters and hotel workers who were waiting at my table or serving me wine at the wine bar appreciated the fact that I spoke some basic Romanian and Albanian I have learned over the years from my mother’s caregivers. So my suggestion to you for Ortisei, Venice, and Milan, when dealing with hospitality workers is to know some basic Romanian and Albanian because, unbeknownst to many foreign visitors, most workers in the hospitality industry in Italy come from those two countries.

Great responses . In agreement that German was more commonly spoken in Ortisei area with staff at family run hotels and rifugi we encountered. The English was quite good also.
We speak Italian better than German and found it not to be an issue although made an effort to use the German basics when possible.

I found out on the first visit that German is more of the common denominator. But they also speak Italian and English. We are returning next month for another week. It’s a great culture. Ladin is another language spoken.

I so appreciate the information shared on this thread. I'm always impressed by how fluent folks are in multiple languages when we travel. I would love to be so multi-lingual! I have tried to learn some basic Italian, French, or Spanish to at least get the gist of written signs, menus, and placards, though I admit to relying on Google Translate to help with conversations. I'm not saying this to pat myself on the back, rather that it seems something most folks could manage. Yet many US travelers seem to expect everyone to speak English for their convenience. To me, that's more than a bit of hubris.

Thanks all, useful insights. I was leaning to Kate's reasoning before posting and "quite different from standard German" reinforces that. I'll get on to reaquainting myself with Italian and just rely on whatever German is in my head if needed and see what comes out (unfortunately probably Spanish as that's what I'm most familiar with)