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Dolomites - Reality Check + some thoughts

Just came back from a wonderful vacation here, where the entire purpose was to hike in these mountains. Here are some observations that I think will be helpful as more people come to this region who are not necessarily experienced hikers (like me).

Physical fitness - you need to be physically fit to enjoy the hikes here. I am middle-aged, not overweight, and would say I am slightly above average in this category. Fitness is especially important if like me, you live in a low-elevation environment and cannot easily practice in similar alpine environments.

Mental fitness - these hikes will also test your mental health. There will be times you will be challenged, one minute you are doing fine and the next you are facing exhaustion or a scary situation. You need to be able to talk yourself out of the situation and evaluate what needs to be done.

Difficulty - my opinion is that there is no such thing as an easy hike here for the average tourist.

Danger - you should have the mentality that you are going to a dangerous environment. Tourists and experienced hikers die here regularly (over 80 dead in just over a 30 day period this summer). If you are not prepared, it could be you. You need proper hiking garments, shoes, layers, plenty of water, and food. You need to be prepared for any kind of weather. At one point I was doing great on a morning hike until a had a very steep climb that coincided with the hot sun coming out. I felt pretty exhausted with all that coming together. Luckily I had what I needed on hand to get me to the next hut where I could regroup and cool down.

Itinerary - I see a lot of people on this forum talking about coming here for 2 days on their whirlwind European or Italian vacation, right between their stays in Venice and Rome, or Florence, or wherever. If that is you, you probably need to think about all the above points more than others. The mountains (and Europe in general) are not a playground.

When to visit - for the hiking season you should really be coming here between Jun and Sept.

August - People said not to come during August, but I found it to be just fine. I was hitting the trail around 6 or 7 in the morning and encountered few people at those times. Get up early and August is not a problem.

Ortisei - people act like this is the only place to stay. There are better places to stay, like almost any other town in my opinion. I stayed in a nice residential area in Brixen and it was perfect. No other American tourists.

Aple di Suisi - was nice but my least favorite of all the places I visited. Not a must-see at all.

Lago di Braies - not an overrated destination, but you have to get here very early or late.

Posted by
416 posts

I would agree with the general intent of this article - Be in shape and be prepared.

However, there are plenty of easy trails with little to no technical challenge and very moderate elevation change if you avail yourself of the cable cars. There are even all downhill hikes on wide gravel paths that less fit people can do. There are several books out there detailing difficulty so you can easily chose a hike commensurate with your abilities. The local TI office can be very helpful as well.

On our trips there, we routinely see very old people and (objectively) very unfit people doing hikes - even if they are just on the supply roads to the mountain huts (where the scenery is still outstanding).

Posted by
33 posts

I agree with jasonindenver. We were there first week of June, staying in Ortisei for a week, had limited opening of cable cars. Combining with cables and huts one can enjoy the scenery with leisure and moderate hikes. The bus ride between towns are very enjoyable. We combined bus rides uphill, walk downhills, or vice versa and had very impressive scenery. Ti are very helpful.

Posted by
3212 posts

We were in Ortisei for five nights this past June. It is an excellent location for hiking if you want to use the funiculars and do not have a car. It worked for us.

I never felt in any danger in the Dolomites. There are lots of people for one thing. And second, I must have done less difficult hikes than you did. We are older than you--mid sixties-but also live in land of the flat.

We also enjoyed the Alpe di Suisi but agree it was not the most stunning hike we took.

Posted by
416 posts

Glad to hear the verdict on Alpe di Siusi! It was the hike we skipped in Ortisei due to time and was thinking we might need to go back to do it. Now I can safely move on to Selva!

Posted by
125 posts

Not trying to scare people, but I think there are lots of people that are traveling there now that do not have a healthy respect for the mountains.

I think even the popular, “easy” trails have the potential for danger. Break an ankle, storm rolls in and you are not prepared, overestimate your abilities and you are already too deep into the hike. It can get real very fast.

Here is one example from Seceda last year where someone got into trouble: https://www.newsweek.com/female-solo-traveler-hiking-italy-dolomites-tiktok-1906443.

IMO for people that just want to see mountains casually, Switzerland is the best EU destination.

Posted by
2940 posts

It is kind of you to share your experience and warnings, but I feel you could scare people off unnecessarily. I stayed in Ortisei (which I loved) for six nights seven years ago and hiked all over the place (but not to any Refugios) for five days. I never felt anything close to danger. I was in my early 60s and wore Hoka running shoes and had no special equipment. It was glorious. In fact, I am sitting in the Atlanta airport waiting for my flight to Munich. We are spending eight nights in Ortisei to celebrate our 50th anniversary.

As for the woman in the article — anyone who comes to an area covered in snow and cries that she can’t do it, but continues to go forward… Well, let’s just say that shows very poor judgement.

I will also say I loved walking in the Alpe di Suisi. It may not have been as dramatic as other places we hiked, but it was a delightful place to walk and it was so expansive — very green with long range views of the mountains.

Posted by
1792 posts

I really like your message.

"Hiking" in Europe means the real deal. Some Americans equate "hiking" with "walking in a park-like environment on dirt roads" and thereby totally underestimate the physical stamina needed.

Also, for those renting a car, do not trust Google Maps driving time. Driving in the mountains is nothing like driving on the freeways or even suburban streets in the US.

Posted by
1947 posts

Thank you for your observations; some of them are sorely needed.
A common complain from rescue squads in the Alps is that they often have to provide aid to naive tourists that engage hikes too difficult for them and when they get in trouble they call the helicopter rescue squad. An helicopter costs something like 120 euros per minute; professional climbers have insurance and if you are in real danger of life the cost could be met by the national health system; but if you got in trouble out of simply doing stupid things, you will be charged the full expense.

There are two easy ways to get in trouble: unsuitable shoes, and planning an hike calendar and sticking to it in spite of weather conditions. Mountain climbing was born as a sport for rich aristocrats, that could stay two months in the same place and choose the appropriate day for a climb. But the climber having two days in a spot and having to do his/her climb no matter what the weather will be is calling for serious trouble. Even expert hikers/climbers visiting in a narrow time frame (say, a finance professional from London with a passion for climbing visiting in a weekend) can make this mistake.

Posted by
5574 posts

I don’t view this as trying to scare anyone - but everyone needs to be prepared and aware. If the warning above scares someone, then they are most likely not an experienced hiker and NEED the reminders. It’s always nice when things go well, but this is not the first I have read about people having to be rescued - at a rather large cost. lachera is local and makes good points. In the States, we have the recent example of the woman who tripped and fell from a somewhat narrow path while hiking with a group in Glacier NP and died. I read a Facebook comment from a mom whose 10 year old had fallen on the same hike (at a different time) but was caught on a bush and rescued. Apparently people do need reminders.