Dolomites - Reality Check + some thoughts

I would agree with the general intent of this article - Be in shape and be prepared.

However, there are plenty of easy trails with little to no technical challenge and very moderate elevation change if you avail yourself of the cable cars. There are even all downhill hikes on wide gravel paths that less fit people can do. There are several books out there detailing difficulty so you can easily chose a hike commensurate with your abilities. The local TI office can be very helpful as well.

On our trips there, we routinely see very old people and (objectively) very unfit people doing hikes - even if they are just on the supply roads to the mountain huts (where the scenery is still outstanding).

I agree with jasonindenver. We were there first week of June, staying in Ortisei for a week, had limited opening of cable cars. Combining with cables and huts one can enjoy the scenery with leisure and moderate hikes. The bus ride between towns are very enjoyable. We combined bus rides uphill, walk downhills, or vice versa and had very impressive scenery. Ti are very helpful.

We were in Ortisei for five nights this past June. It is an excellent location for hiking if you want to use the funiculars and do not have a car. It worked for us.

I never felt in any danger in the Dolomites. There are lots of people for one thing. And second, I must have done less difficult hikes than you did. We are older than you--mid sixties-but also live in land of the flat.

We also enjoyed the Alpe di Suisi but agree it was not the most stunning hike we took.

Glad to hear the verdict on Alpe di Siusi! It was the hike we skipped in Ortisei due to time and was thinking we might need to go back to do it. Now I can safely move on to Selva!

Not trying to scare people, but I think there are lots of people that are traveling there now that do not have a healthy respect for the mountains.

I think even the popular, “easy” trails have the potential for danger. Break an ankle, storm rolls in and you are not prepared, overestimate your abilities and you are already too deep into the hike. It can get real very fast.

Here is one example from Seceda last year where someone got into trouble: https://www.newsweek.com/female-solo-traveler-hiking-italy-dolomites-tiktok-1906443.

IMO for people that just want to see mountains casually, Switzerland is the best EU destination.

It is kind of you to share your experience and warnings, but I feel you could scare people off unnecessarily. I stayed in Ortisei (which I loved) for six nights seven years ago and hiked all over the place (but not to any Refugios) for five days. I never felt anything close to danger. I was in my early 60s and wore Hoka running shoes and had no special equipment. It was glorious. In fact, I am sitting in the Atlanta airport waiting for my flight to Munich. We are spending eight nights in Ortisei to celebrate our 50th anniversary.

As for the woman in the article — anyone who comes to an area covered in snow and cries that she can’t do it, but continues to go forward… Well, let’s just say that shows very poor judgement.

I will also say I loved walking in the Alpe di Suisi. It may not have been as dramatic as other places we hiked, but it was a delightful place to walk and it was so expansive — very green with long range views of the mountains.

I really like your message.

"Hiking" in Europe means the real deal. Some Americans equate "hiking" with "walking in a park-like environment on dirt roads" and thereby totally underestimate the physical stamina needed.

Also, for those renting a car, do not trust Google Maps driving time. Driving in the mountains is nothing like driving on the freeways or even suburban streets in the US.

Thank you for your observations; some of them are sorely needed.
A common complain from rescue squads in the Alps is that they often have to provide aid to naive tourists that engage hikes too difficult for them and when they get in trouble they call the helicopter rescue squad. An helicopter costs something like 120 euros per minute; professional climbers have insurance and if you are in real danger of life the cost could be met by the national health system; but if you got in trouble out of simply doing stupid things, you will be charged the full expense.

There are two easy ways to get in trouble: unsuitable shoes, and planning an hike calendar and sticking to it in spite of weather conditions. Mountain climbing was born as a sport for rich aristocrats, that could stay two months in the same place and choose the appropriate day for a climb. But the climber having two days in a spot and having to do his/her climb no matter what the weather will be is calling for serious trouble. Even expert hikers/climbers visiting in a narrow time frame (say, a finance professional from London with a passion for climbing visiting in a weekend) can make this mistake.

I don’t view this as trying to scare anyone - but everyone needs to be prepared and aware. If the warning above scares someone, then they are most likely not an experienced hiker and NEED the reminders. It’s always nice when things go well, but this is not the first I have read about people having to be rescued - at a rather large cost. lachera is local and makes good points. In the States, we have the recent example of the woman who tripped and fell from a somewhat narrow path while hiking with a group in Glacier NP and died. I read a Facebook comment from a mom whose 10 year old had fallen on the same hike (at a different time) but was caught on a bush and rescued. Apparently people do need reminders.

Well, am I a local? Literally not as I am not Dolomite based, but I spent in the Dolomites almost all my holidays from 2 to 25 years. My late father was an experienced hiker and when me and my little brother were children we were brought to a lot of hikes. We were never based in Ortisei, first we were based in Moena and then in Villabassa near Dobbiaco that had better weather.
In spite of being relatively little children, I remember to my age some positively terrifying passages - the Viel dal Pan is along a cliff almost all its lenght and I remember a lot of precipices - but we were always tied to an adult and had appropriate shoes. In planning our hikes we always considered our forces and we never tried anything too difficult or strenuous. We always had some extra layers to wear but we never challenged weather. So we never experienced the mental fitness troubles the OP talks about, as we were taught to respect the mountains, be aware of danger and never do stupid things.

Wow, I must say I was amazed by the stupidity of the woman in the article. Such a lack of judgement.

Why would you ever hike into snow in sneakers?

Perhaps you are right. If it keeps them from doing stupid things, people should be reminded of the danger that lurks in the mountains.

lol, lachera. You are more local than any of the rest of us commenting on this thread. :)

In September 2023 we stayed in Ortesei for a week. It was fantastic. We got a map from the hotel and a free bus pass. We bought a week pass for the gondola. We managed to hike some amazing trail, some more difficult than others. We were 70 that year. We didn't need a car at all, that would have made everything more challenging trying to find parking spots. We traveled to different towns, found the gondola and did our hike, returning by lunch time to our hotel.

I would go back in a second, but we leave in a few days for Aosta Valley to hike there for a week... and we are now 71 1/2 years old.

In September some of the places to eat were closed, so didn't have a lot of options, but we managed. We are not big foodies...give us something to eat and we are happy.

Hmmm. Just thinking that maybe this is why some Rick Steves tours go to the Alpe di Suisi area. We had bad weather when we were there on our My Way Alpine tour and it was still very low key as far as hiking goes. Nothing dangerous or treacherous. We still went on the panorama trail even though it was all fogged in with low clouds. Had our rain gear and hiking boots. It cleared up enough to see some mountains as we went along! We had a nice lunch in a Refugio, and stopped for strudel at another. Even with the clouds I loved it. There was hardly anyone around but plenty of lovely cows with their bells ringing. Very peaceful. I just think everyone needs to use common sense and do some research ahead of time on what kind of hike they are looking for and what to expect.

You need proper hiking garments, shoes, layers, plenty of water, and
food. You need to be prepared for any kind of weather.

I've never been to the Dolomites but I see it all the time in the Canadian Rockies, especially improper footwear such as flip-flops and high heels.

Let's not forget wildlife. Rule #1 on a hike is to clean up after yourself and take your garbage with you. There's nothing like having a bear or cougar take an interest in you, or stumble into one that is munching on someone else's leftover food that was left behind. Now that we're into September, the bears are active in areas with plenty of berries and other food as they get ready for winter. You should really travel in groups and make plenty of noise.

Also, my friend had sent me photos of the hike she and her husband took on the exact same trail in clear sunny weather a year before we went, and it looked absolutely stunning. It was their favorite hike when they went on the My Way Alpine tour and they are very experienced hikers. So if that area is not a “must see” I can’t imagine what other areas are like!

True Allan. I’ve hiked in the Canadian Rockies and a great level of vigilance and respect is needed there regarding wildlife. One would think it would be common sense but some people are totally unaware and unprepared which boggles my mind. On the drive on the parkway from Banff to Jasper I remember seeing a bunch of people pulled over because a bear was on the edge of the forest. Fine to look from the safety of your car and take a photo, but I saw a couple outside their car with their child taking a picture of the child with the bear in the background. I told them it was incredibly dangerous and to please pick up their child and get back in their car. It’s as if they thought they were at a zoo with safe enclosures. Yikes.

I live in the Alps in a small village at 1000 metres.
I have several friends who work in the Alpine Rescue service.
This summer we heard the rescue helicopter flying back and forth most days
I agree with this comment of the OP:
"The mountains are not a playground."

Thank you for this reality check!! my husband and I are in late 70s not long distance hikers.. we are staying in San Candido early Sept.
any suggestions for walks/hikes around lakes or short ones less than 3 miles in duration ?

What is best way to learn of these possible experiences? Thank you

I remember there is an easy walk in the woods to the Baths of San Candido, that were a luxury hotel till the beginning of 20th century and now is a decaying ruin in imperial style. All the Pusteria valley was high on tourism on late 19th century and there are a few abandoned luxury resort. The Emma hotel in Villabassa, where I spent a lot of my children holidays, is now family run but was once known all over Europe.

The railway service along Pusteria valley is now quite efficient. For example, you could take the train to Dobbiaco where there are easy walks to Aufkirchen, a gothic church in a meadow, or to the small bungalow where Gustav Mahler composed Das Lied von der Erde.

A trip I was somtimes recommended, but I never tried on my own as at the time the railway was not so efficient, is by hiring a bicycle and descending to Lienz, Austria. There is mostly a dedicated path and almost all the route is descending. It is 44 kms. long and it takes 3 hours. When you are in Lienz you put your bike on a train and go back to San Candido, or you can arrange to return the bike directly in Lienz.

@barbaraseadawg I really enjoyed Lago di Braies and the walk around the lake is a breeze. I got there before 7am and there was maybe a dozen other quiet, respectful tourists on the immediate shore. Once you start to circle the lake you will barely see anyone else at that hour. I stayed for about 3 hours and by the time I was done it was mobbed at the starting point and very large groups had arrived. But the majority of my stay was very peaceful.

Also nearby is Prato Piazza. I went there for the Monte Specie summit hike, but there is a flat trail from the parking lot that passes by several rifugios and still offers amazing views.

You could also lookup Val Fiscalina which I believe would be convenient to your location. Did not go there myself but I hear it is beautiful and suitable for everyone.

Also, if you don’t have trekking poles I highly recommend them. My first time using them and it was a revelation. My knees were bothering me on descents on the first couple of hikes and the poles helped so much.

I did a lot of self maintenance on this trip to keep hiking. Stretching, ice, rest, hydration, electrolytes after the hike, etc. I think it made a big difference..

Hope you have a great time!

Information request:
I am thinking of going to the Dolomites in mid September 2026. I am an experienced hiker butting getting older (66) so looking for moderate day hikes not staying in refuges or doing the AV1. I was thinking of staying in Ortisei for 5 to 7 nights and using that as a home base for day hikes. I will not have a car so I will be using the train and bus cable cars. A few questions, are the lifts and funiculars still running in mid September? What is the best way to get from Bolzano to Ortisei and then from Ortisei to Venice on public transit? How is the weather in mid September? Thank you in advance.