Please sign in to post.

Dolomites or other mountain towns

We are planning a tour of Italy and want to stay in two nights one of the Italian Alps; which town would you recommend: 1. Cortina d'Ampezzo or Bolzano?
Also a good B&B in either...
Thanks,
Jean

Posted by
20178 posts

Neither. Ortisei would be a better town. Bolzano is a fair sized city down in the valley. Cortina is OK, but I prefer the area around Ortisei a bit better, maybe because of its more "tyrolean" ambiance. You will also have a better chance of finding a b&b there I believe.

Posted by
506 posts

So Ortisei has more views of the Italian Alps than these two? That is what I'm hoping for...

Posted by
8159 posts

I suggest going to Booking.com or AirBnB.com to find accommodations virtually anywhere.
I've also found that if you go to Googlemaps.com and put the town in, a map will pop up. Magnify the map two or three "+" and just about all the small hotels in the area will show up. Click on the icon and you can see what they're all about, including direct websites.

Posted by
15204 posts

Bolzano is a city at the bottom of the Adige Valley. Too far.
Cortina is good, but it's the Aspen of Italy: very expensive and full of pretentious rich people.
Ortisei in the Val Gardena (Gardena Valley) has my full approval as well.

Posted by
3391 posts

Roberto is right...Cortina has great mountains but it is pretentious and really expensive. Bolzano is just as expensive but you have no views of any mountains except for the Rosengarten in the distance. I agree that the Val Gardena area is best - beautiful, not overpriced or glitzy, and easy access to some of the most spectacular mountain views you'll ever see!

Posted by
11342 posts

Neither Castelrotto nor Bolzano is actually IN the Dolomites. Ortisei and Cortina are. Ortisei is a thoroughly charming little town with great opportunities to hike or just ride the lifts for spectacular views. I highly recommend Hotel Garni Walter or Villa Aurelia. Also, don't miss Ristorante Vives. It is absolutely spectacular!

If you can carve out three nights, giving yourselves two full days, you will be happy you did. Sometimes the weather does not cooperate sufficiently for a short stay and you would not want to miss the mountains!

Posted by
20178 posts

Also, don't miss Ristorante Vives. It is absolutely spectacular!

Hey, I've actually been there. Agree totally!

"Vives" is the Ladino equivalent to Skol, Prosit, Sante, Salute, Cheers.

Posted by
32214 posts

jean,

Although it's not "in" the Dolomties, Castelrotto is a very scenic town and a good location to use as a base in that area. From there you can take a Bus to Alpi di Siusi for some great hiking.

Posted by
15204 posts

I've done a research on a few dozen Italian forums online to see which places in the Dolomites, local Italian experts with the area think are the most beautiful.

The most mentions go to locations in the Val Gardena (Ortisei, Santa Cristina, Sella), Val Badia (Corvara, Badia), Val di Fassa (Canazei), Val di Cadore, Val d'Ampezzo (Cortina), Val Pusteria (in particular lake Braies, Brunico, Dobbiaco), and many others.

But I have not seen one, not even one, mention for Castelrotto. I don't think most Italians have ever heard of the place.

In part it might be due to the fact that Castelrotto is not in the Dolomites, but I wonder sometimes how Rick Steves makes his choices as the best places in certain regions. Same thing goes to Montepulciano in Tuscany. Nice place, yes. But somehow he was able to convince an entire continent (North America) that is the must go place in Tuscany. I don't think Italians would rank it in the top 10 hilltowns in Tuscany, yet he managed to convince Americans it should be no. 1.

I am going to write a travel book in Italian and convince all Italians to come to a California and stay in Coalinga and Chowchilla. Let's see if I can put those two cow stinking places on the map.

Posted by
114 posts

I stayed in Cortina d'Ampezzo this past May and it was lovely! Terrific views of the mountains and the drive both in and out was absolutely breathtaking! I did not find things to be too unreasonably priced, however it was during the off season. Depending on when you are traveling you may be able to find a good deal, especially if it is during the off season. Definitely worth looking in to!

Posted by
3391 posts

I agree Roberto! I've always been a bit flummoxed over the recommendation for Castelrotto. It's as if Rick hasn't traveled very extensively in the Dolomites to really find the best places...sounds like it was a cursory visit and this was the first and last place he visited. Fine! Fewer people to get in my way when I go!

Posted by
14 posts

We stayed about a mile outside of Castelrotto at Chalet Tianes. Beautiful views. We booked through Expedia, so there are reviews on all the places. This is a ski resort and we were there last month - July, so got better rates. This area is German. I feel certain you will prefer the mountain towns over Bolzano.

Mary

Posted by
506 posts

I must say I have to thank you all for your considerable opinions and will check them all out!
Great Forum,
Jean

Posted by
11342 posts

I think Rick Steves may recommend Castelrotto because it is easy to get to, spend two nights, and has reasonable access to the Alpe di Siusi. That said, the Val Gardena is not much further from Bolzano and offers so much more in a small area, including access to the Alpe di Siusi and also the Puez-Odle. I think Rick's picks are sometimes for convenience and to give "a taste" of someplace. One needs to find one's own special places.

Posted by
7 posts

Back to original question. The Dolomiti are normally not considered the Italian Alps. But having hiked and traveled in both the Dolomiti are our favorites.

I recommend Selva Gardena if you want to hike/walk among the Dolomiti during a two day visit. Numerous easy paths to spectacular views of Sassolungo group and the Odle. Several Refugio options close by with vistas you will never forget.

If you are driving easy to get to or on train from Bolzano you take the bus to Selva. Short easy ride; but honestly Bolzano was a drag for us and we were very happy to climb up the Val Gardena.

Have Fun!

Phil

Posted by
2910 posts

Hi Jean,
You don't say if you'll have a car and what time of year this visit is taking place.

With a car, I'd say the Alta Badia has the best Dolomite scenery in general. Loved our two stays here:

www.montanara.it
www.altabadia.it

Without a car, Val Gardena is compact and easy to get into the mountains. While we stayed in St. Christina (www.garniariston.com), I'd suggest Selva. Ortisei is the largest, but the Dolomite scenery in general gets better towards Selva. All 3 towns (Ortisei, St. Christina and Selva) are just a few minutes from one another, so any of them makes a good base.

www.val-gardena.com

I'd skip staying in Bolzano, Cortina or Castelrotto.

I also hope you can find another night to spend, as 2 full days gives you a better window for good weather.

Paul

Posted by
2910 posts

Hi Jean,
You don't say if you'll have a car and what time of year this visit is taking place.

With a car, I'd say the Alta Badia has the best Dolomite scenery in general. Loved our two stays here:

www.montanara.it
www.altabadia.it

Without a car, Val Gardena is compact and easy to get into the mountains. While we stayed in St. Christina (www.garniariston.com), I'd suggest Selva. Ortisei is the largest, but the Dolomite scenery in general gets better towards Selva. All 3 towns (Ortisei, St. Christina and Selva) are just a few minutes from one another, so any of them makes a good base.

www.val-gardena.com

I'd skip staying in Bolzano, Cortina or Castelrotto.

I also hope you can find another night to spend, as 2 full days gives you a better window for good weather.

Paul