Revised--Dolomites/Northern Italy Itinerary

I've only been to Ortisei (day-trip) and Bolzano, but just thought I'd point out that if you're unlucky with the weather on one of your Ortisei days, Bolzano (which has multiple museums) is an easy day-trip from there, which would free up one of your Trento days for another destination.

Thanks acraven! That's good to know!

Hi Sharon,

I can only comment on the two area's we have been to. I would actually add a night to Meran/Merano, but probably stay a little further west in the Vinschgau/Val Venosta. My opinion, I think you should omit one place, as the three 3 nighters are only 2 days in each place. If you're looking to relax and do some hiking and/or walking, these activities are weather dependent. An extra day increases your chances of a good weather day.

Also, it would most likely be a lot cheaper to pick up and return the car in Germany. I'd consider taking the train from Munich to Garmisch, get the car and then return it in Garmisch and train to Munich. Garmisch is an easy 2:30 drive to Ortisei.

We stayed in the Val Gardena once and then visited from our base in the adjacent valley (Alta Badia) twice. We also stayed in the Vinschgau/Val Venosta, which is a valley that runs basically from Meran/Merano to the Swiss border near Mustair, about an hour away.

These two area's are quite different. You'll find more vineyards in the Meran/Merano/Vinschgau area than in the "Dolomites", which are basically between Ortisei and Cortina d'Ampezzo. The alps in the Dolomites are associated with the towering limestone peaks and the Vinschgau is more like the alpine scenery you'd see in Austria and Switzerland. You will not see anything like the Dolomites in the alps. Dramatic is an understatement. The Vinschgau, along with alpine scenery, has plenty of medieval castles (Tirolo, Juval, Kastelbell, Churburg, etc., etc.) and then Glurns/Glorenza, a perfectly preserved medieval walled old town, about 45 min. from Meran/Merano. Near the Italian/Swiss border is the Convent St. John, in Mustair, Switzerland. Certainly worth the drive to visit.

We could easily spend 5 nights in either the Dolomites or the Vinschgau/Val Venosta. We spent only two in the Vinschgau and 11 in the Dolomites. 4 nights based in the Val Gardena and 7 based in the Alta Badia.

Hope this helps.

Paul

Very helpful Paul! Thanks! Are there any issues with renting a car in Germany and driving in Italy? Thanks!

Maybe we should delete Lake Garda!

Hi Sharon,

No problem taking a car from Germany into Italy, unless you're renting higher end Benz's, BMW's, etc. Tell the rental co. about your plans. You'll also need an Austrian Vignette, which is a toll sticker for your windshield, cost is 9Euro, sticker is good for 10 consecutive days, and can be bought in Germany or Italy before entering Austria. With your plans, you'll need a second Austrian Vignette for the trip back to Munich or Garmisch. They are sold at gas stations and convenience stores, etc.

If interested, I was just offering some info at this link:

https://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowTopic-g187857-i1992-k9651139-Sud_Tirol_holiday-Bolzano_Province_of_South_Tyrol_Trentino_Alto_Adige.html

Again, if interested, we have our pics of the Dolomites at:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/pjbassplyr/albums/72157646609535108
https://www.flickr.com/photos/pjbassplyr/albums/72157646798948951
https://www.flickr.com/photos/pjbassplyr/albums/72157646363588198

Vinschgau/Val Venosta (before we had a digital camera!, so we scanned a few):
https://www.flickr.com/photos/pjbassplyr/albums/72157646997622506

Have a look at:
www.val-gardena.com
www.altabadia.org
www.venosta.net/en/welcome.html?_ga=1.8761654.285880710.1467246084

Paul

If you have not yet purchased your airline tickets you may want to check out flying from JFK to Milan. You would need to purchase seperate tickets from Atlanta to JFK but even so there seems to be some sort of airfare war for that JFK/MXP flight and fares have been very cheap. Ours was a little over $500 each.
From Milan your could easily train to Verona, then on to Ortisei. No trains go to Ortisei so you would have to pick up a rental car along the way- maybe Verona or Bolzano? Of course you may find that last night in Milan vs Munich to be just as expensive as Milan is an expensive city.

Thanks for all of the good info Paul and the link to lovely photos!

Kathleen, we looked at Milan but felt that the airport in Munich is a little easier to get to on public transportation. We were lucky enough to find one of those great airfares--$656.00 non-stop in and out of Munich!

Hi Sharon,

Munich is actually a little closer to Ortisei than Milan. The rental car will be a lot cheaper also.

Paul

Now we're thinking of a night in Germany to pick up a rental car--then dividing our time between Val Gardena and Val Venosta.

Would Sterzing/Vipiteno be a good base for Val Venosta? Or a different smaller city/town/village.

We're excited to explore a couple of regions we know very little about. Thanks Paul (and all) for helping us shape our itinerary!

Sharon

Hi Sharon,

If splitting 15 nights only between two locations in Sud Tirol/Dolomites with a night in Germany to pick up the car, I'd still recommend either Munich or Garmisch. With 15 nights to use, you may want to stay a couple of nights in Bavaria either at the beginning or end of your trip or put one or two nights at each end of your trip. To start your trip, maybe explore some of Bavaria around Garmisch... the Zugspitze, Ettal, Oberammergau, Mittenwald, Fuessen, Linderhof Palace, Neuschwanstein and Hohenschwangau castles, etc. At the end, spend a night or 2 in Munich.

Sterzing/Vipiteno is not a good base for either the Val Gardena/Dolomites or the Val Venosta. Too far out, plus driving the Jaufen Pass everyday to get to the Val Venosta from Vipiteno would be a major pain and total inconvenience and waste of time.

We can recommend this place in Malles/Mals in the Vinschgau/Val Venosta, and the price includes an excellent buffet breakfast (as most places do) and a gourmet (in our opinion) 4 course dinner:

www.biohotel-panorama.it/top/home.html

The town of Schlanders/Silandro is cute, with a nice pedestrian zone.
www.vinschgau.net/en/silandro-lasa.html

Paul

Here's links to the lifts/cable cars, and schedules for them, in the Alta Badia:
www.altabadia.org/en/summer-holidays/trekking-hiking/summer-lifts-in-alta-badia.html

In the Val Gardena:
www.valgardena.it/en/hiking-biking/walking-trekking/lifts/

Vinschgau:
www.vinschgau.net/en/laces-val-martello/summer-activities/hiking/cableways-and-chairlifts.html

We stayed once in St. Christina, Val Gardena at:
www.garniariston.com

Twice in La Villa, Alta Badia at:
www.montanara.it

Paul

We loved our stay in La Villa. We stayed at the Garni Tamarindo which is next to the place that Paul recommended. They are owned by brothers. HIGHLY recommend both places. Paul's advice is spot on and while in the Dolomites he responded with a lot of advice about routes to take. I am envious of the time you have just in the Dolomites. We loved it and would go back in a heartbeat.

Hi Sharon,

Just wanted to add that while in the Dolomites (Ortisei), you could easily day trip to the old towns of Bozen/Bolzano, Brixen/Bressanone, Bruneck/Brunico, Cortina d'Ampezzo, etc.
From the Vinschgau/Val Venosta nearby are Meran/Merano and Bozen/Bolzano.

You will have to get used to everything having at least 2 names, German name/Italian name. Sometimes a third, Ladin language name. Example: St. Ulrich/Ortisei/Urtijëi (German/Italian/Ladin)

This entire area was once Austria, until it was given to Italy after WWl.

Paul

Thank you Claire and Paul for your suggestions. A plan is beginning to take shape!

Anyone have an opinion about which might make a better base--La Villa or Ortisei? Especially for restaurants and hiking options.

Both valleys (Val Gardena for Ortisei and Alta Badia for La Villa) are close enough together so you can spend a day or days in the one you're not staying in. All it takes is a scenic drive over the Gardena Pass to go from one valley to the other. Ortisei is the only town in either valley to have an "old town" pedestrian zone, if that matters to you.

As for hiking opportunities and restaurants, I don't believe you can go wrong with either valley. We slightly prefer the Alta Badia, as we llike the Dolomite scenery in general here a bit more than in other areas.

Paul

Hi Sharon,

Sorry to add to what seems to be an info overload, but...

For up close spectacular views of the Dolomites by car, this is our own "Best of the Dolomites Drive". It can easily be done in a day and covers drives over 4 Dolomite Passes.

It can be started/ended from any point really, but I'll use Alta Badia:

At Corvara, take the Campolongo Pass (SS244) to Arabba. From Arabba take the Pordoi Pass (SR48) towards Canazei. Before you get to Canazei, take the Sella Pass SS242 (or stop in Canazei and go back a bit to continue). Take the Sella Pass and at the end, get right on the Gardena Pass SS243 (they branch off one another) towards Colfosco/Alta Badia. There's a cafe/restaurant/rest stop at the "top" of the Gardena, Sella and Pordoi Passes. You'll also notice a few small places to park along the passes to get out and walk among the Dolomite peaks.

For some info and photo's of the passes, check out:
www.alpineroads.com/dolomites.php

Some are listed under the German and or Italian name:
Gardena Pass - Grödnerjoch
Sella Pass - Sellajoch
Pordoi Pass - Passo di Pordoi
Campolongo Pass - Passo di Campolongo

The Giau Pass is accessed by heading to Cortina d'Ampezzo, and before getting to the town, simply take the turn off for the Giau Pass (SP638). At the end, head back towards the Alta Badia via the Falzarego Pass.

Thanks Paul! It's all great! I appreciate any suggestions...I'm working on the itinerary now!

Best wishes! Happy 4th!

With lots of good advice, we've put some finishing touches on our itinerary. Thanks to everyone that helped shape it.

We've left some open time in the middle for flexibility in case we want to spend more time in one place, travel further afield to Verona, or split the time between Bolzano, Trento, or Merano. We'll decide along the way.

Right now it looks like this:

Arrival in Munich--train to Garmisch-Partenkirchen-(1 night)--Gasthof Fraundorfer--pick up rental car the next day.

Ortisei- (4 nights) Hotel Luna Mondschein

Bolzano or Trento or Merano or Verona (4 nights)-leaving this open depending on weather, hiking options, etc.

Malle (3 nights) Hotel Tyrol

Reutte (2 nights) Das Beck

Munich (1 night) MOXY Munich Airport-Return rental car and flight home.

Any suggestions or recommendations would be appreciated!

Hi Sharon,

The Hotel Tyrol in Mals/Malles looks like a great find! Let me know what you think after your stay. We liked the Bio-Hotel Panorama, but this looks just as nice or even nicer.

You'll be driving right by both Bolzano and Merano on the trip from Ortisei to Mals. I personally think you'll end up wanting another night in Mals/Malles. If visiting St. Johns in nearby Mustair, Switzerland, I believe you'll need to have your passport ready to show at the border crossing. It was well worth seeing.

We visited Reutte a couple of times and couldn't understand why Rick Steves picked this village to stay in. We loved our two stays nearby in the old town of Fuessen. Everyone has different opinions.

Overall, it looks like a good trip. Please come back and let us know how it all worked out.

Paul

Thanks Paul!

I looked at the Bio-Hotel Panorama and liked it but it has a 30% fee for cancellation.

A good reminder about needing our passports ready to show at the border crossing. We do want to visit St. Johns.

I wondered about Reutte as I don't always agree with Rick's picks. We need to break up the trip between Malles and Munich. I'm going to do some further research.

I will post a brief trip report when we return!