Dolomites: Castelrotto or Ortisei

You can get a lot of your questions answered on:
https://www.suedtirol.info/en/en

"Enough" is entirely subjective. It depends if you want to hike, eat, hang out, travel around to see sites... Ortisei is a big town (biggest town?) down in the Val Gardena (Gardena Valley) while Castelrotto is up on a higher plateau beneath the Alps di Siusi.

Your hotel in the area will give you a free Mobicard for bus transport around the region and the bus network is VERY extensive. It gives you the opportunity to go up one lift, hike to the top of another, take the lift down and catch the bus home.

https://www.suedtirol.info/en/en/information/mobility-and-barrier-free-accessibility/local-transport-in-south-tyrol/mobilcard

Both towns are lovely, but if you want to leave Castelrotto to see much farther east you will end up driving or taking a bus through Ortisei anyway (20-30 min). Buses go to both from the bus station just north of the main train station in Bolzano. From Oritisei there is a gondola directly up to the northern rim of the Alpe di Siusi if you want to hike there, or you can take a gondola up to the Col Raiser on the north side of the Valley for hiking there. From Castelrotto you take a bus to Seiser Alm and catch the gondola up to the Alps di Siusi from there.

Ortisei has many more accommodations that Castelrotto and lots, lots more restaurants.

On the other hand I personally like Santa Christina east of Ortisei because it is usually cheaper, closer to lifts/hikes farther east which I prefer as being "not in as many guidebooks." One can always take free bus to Ortisei (15 min?) for a bigger town restaurant if you need one.,

If you want to hike any, I highly recommend getting one of Gillian Price's hiking guides to the Dolomites because they are superb.

And on the fourth hand, one can access the eastern Dolomites very easily by bus to Cortina d'Ampezzo directly from Marco Polo Airport on the Cortina Express bus. It also goes on to Corvara in the next valley west.

You will have a great time.

Hello Simpgolf

We stayed for 6 glorious nights in early June this year in Ortisei. We loved it and all the accessibility of different areas (Alpe di Siusi), Col Raiser, the magnificent Secada, etc. The town is located deep in the valley of these mountains and it is a steep incline everywhere, but completely doable ( we are pretty active 68 years old) . There was easy, free transportation to the other villages. We also visited Castelrotto for the day and also really enjoy the town, which is much smaller, only accessible to the Alpe di Siusi and less steep. It wasn’t close to the other villages, and the roads were very curvy and steep. So it really depends on what you want to see and do, in my opinion, Ortisei was the best choice, and those hills help burn off all the fabulous foods that we ate. Also, we used Laurel Barton’’s book which helped us set ups hikes and explain the area. PM me if you have any questions.

Good luck in your decision,
Marie

Far from an expert on the region, but we stayed in Castelrotto in May 2019. Very much off season, and the weather wasn't great, but I loved it. There was a local equestrian festival in town which was a regional thing and definitely not a tourist attraction. We ended up partying at the local bar with the participants on the Saturday night, which was a blast. Very "Rick Steves backdoor" experience.

The other thing we loved was staying at the Hotel Lamm which was a lovely hotel with a gorgeous spa and swimming pool.

Three days were enough for us considering the weather was iffy (we did two hikes and drove up to Alpes Siusi. To be honest, we stayed in Castelrotto based on Rick Steve's recommendation and the fact that I could book the beautiful Hotel Lamm. I was thoroughly confused when researching this area. But next trip I'll understand what I'm looking at a bit better. I do think it's nice to be up in the mountains.

Hi there-So excited for you to experience the Dolomites. They are beyond awesome at every turn of the head. I was there-female 60ish-for 10 nights mid June til July 1st. I will give you my impressions.

I used Laurels book, and also gave one to my best friend, who came with me. She read more of the details, and it really helped get a sense of the area. Truly, I could not imagine all the gondolas, hiking, etc. until I got there.
We stayed 5 nights Ortesei, 5 nights Corvara We stayed at the Gardena in Ortesei, and La Perla in Corvara. Both hotels were beyond helpful with hiking, directions, etc, and if needed, had sticks and backpacks. I utilized both. Each hotel provided a guide each day for a different hike. I was not so keen on this at first, imagining 30 people on a hike...but, at most, there were 5 of us, with individuals at each hotel returning guests for many years, and they knew the guide. Both guides were excellent, thoughtful, knowledgeable, and local. Ortesei has more cafes, shops than Corvara, but we hiked 8 days, so we did not miss the shops.

I do not think 2 full days is enough-try for 3-but if it is what you have, go for it! The Dolomites will leave you wanting more!
We did not have a rental care-each hotel gives a bus pass-which we did not utilize-and I had a tranport arranged from Ortesei to
Corvara. Also, my friends came mid week, and stayed at Hotel Grones-which I recommended based on Laurels recommendation-and loved it. I walked by, I would stay there. I believe you can get around perfectly without a car-just your original transport to your drop off point. You will love it-daily hikes, walks, whatever you choose, to a refugio for lunch-one does not need to be the
hiker of all hikers! I hope this helps-there are those on this forum who have visited numerous times, and their advice helped me.
I would return and do it all the same, or feel very good about a few changes!

Linda,

How did you get from Ortisei to Corvara? Is there a company or driver you would recommend?

Thanks for the great information and advice, keep it coming. I think we will definitely extend our stay to 4 nights in either of the 2 towns.

I was there last summer and stayed in ortisei which worked really well as we only had two full days for hiking. We had a car but didn’t use it while there - parked in hotel Grones garage and walked easily to funivie. (Beautiful town to walk in the evenings when less people around - check out their beautiful church’s woodwork inside)
Throne and vine (web site, blog) was an excellent resource for us for planning a few hikes and which rifugi to visit (in alpe di suisi and seceda). Next time we will want to explore other areas we have been to before (hikes closer to canazei/cortina area ) so will have to get back to researching!

The other benefit of a longer stay is that if you get rained out one day, you will still have other days to hike. We stayed in Ortisei at Hotel Grones for a week late June one year, no car, arranged a taxi to/from the station in Bolzano, otherwise walked and took public transportation. We are avid hikers and enjoyed all kinds of hikes, easy and short, challenging and long.

I have not been to Castelrotto, but I can tell you Ortisei is wonderful. I highly recommend Hotel Grones. The food is fabulous so go for the half board plan. We stayed five nights and are dying to get back. We love hiking and there are endless opportunities from Ortisei. If you enjoy hiking, you will want more time.

How did you get from Ortisei to Corvara? Is there a company or driver you would recommend?

BethFL, you can get a driver but the bus service is excellent, about 1.5 hours, and covered by the bus pass issued free by most lodgings in the Val Gardena. LMK if you need a drive recommendation.

Another vote for Ortisei and Hotel Grones. You can walk to the lifts easily, one of our favorite hotel experiences ever! Their dinners are delicious, well prepared.

Laurel-
How do you search for bus routes? I have tried and assumed it was not possible which is why I asked about private driver.

Beth

We spent 3 nights at Aparthotel La Tambra in Santa Cristina in June. It was wonderful. The meals that we had in their restaurant were wonderful also. S. Cristina is a lovely village, just 10 minutes from Ortesei. It is much quieter than Ortesei. After being in S. Cristina, Ortesei felt a bit like Disneyland. Definitely more of a resort-y feel. Lots of shops and restaurants. Good location with lifts going each direction up from the valley. But if you want a quiet little town, you might prefer S. Cristina.

We had a rental car and drove to the Col Raiser lift, to Ortesei one day, and we took the bus to Ortesei one day. A car is easier/more convenient, but the buses are frequent, easy and free with a pass from your hotel.

A question about travel to/from Ortisei- we will not have a car and will need to get to Bologna after our 3 night stay in the Dolomites. How easy/reliable is the bus from Ortisei to Bolzano train station?
Thanks!

For buses, here is the journey planner https://www.suedtirolmobil.info/en/. I highly suggest getting the app for on-the spot info while traveling. https://www.suedtirolmobil.info/de/meine-fahrt/app-suedtirolmobil.

This site has schedules for some of the other buses https://www.silbernagl.it/en/timetables serving the Alpe di Siusi.

Thank you Laurel!
This will be my first time to the area and everyone's input on this thread is very helpful.

We stayed for 6 days in the area (in the town of Klausen). We did not have a car and took public transit. We travelled in July, the weather seemed like it was going to rain the whole time...but actually it was really good. If it rained, it usually rained in the afternoon. It only rained all day for one of our days on our whole trip (also did Verona and Venice).

We travelled to Ortesei for two of the days by bus to get to the Seceda and Alpe Di Suisi lifts. It was just under an hour on an amazing and beautiful bus ride up to Ortesei. Ortisei was nice and pretty, but touristy (not that it is always a bad thing) and a lot of people.

On the first day we did the Seceda lift them hiked down to Baita Odles Refugio as it started to rain. We stopped in the Refugio to wait out the rain for an hour then it was sunny again as we hiked out to Regensburgerhutte. Amazing lunch there (risotto) and great views. Hiked down to Santa Christina and bused it back to Ortisei. Did some shopping then bussed it back to Klausen. It was a long day - but completely doable and there are options to do only part of that hike with lift options to go back down into the valley.

Second day after the bus from Klausen to Ortesei took the lift up to Alpe Di Susi. Beautiful again, but almost anticlimatic after the stunning previous day. We took largely the flat paths, and while beautiful, the view was largely the same all the way to Compatsch. Took the lift down to Castelrotto for lunch.

We were very surprised with Castelrotto. Very nice town, seemingly more authentic, very clean, nice shops and was surprised with the lack of tourists. Again took the short (I think 30 min) bus back to Klausen.

Probably either would do - check Google Earth views. Its a preference thing.

Ortisei gets my vote

If for no other reason, you can take lifts from Ortisei to multiple areas (3 different ones)
from Castelrotto as far as I am aware you have 1 option ; Alpe Di Suisi which is also reachable by lift from Ortisei and where Ortisei accesses is actually the most scenic part of the Alpe Di Suisi so it is even superior for access to Alpe ; unless by car/bus as Castelrotto is much closer by road.

It may be a large town by mountain town standards but still a very small town with a great pedestrian only area with restaurants, shops, etc... Castelrotto does not have as much choice.

Ortisei lodging can be very expensive though and many places have minimum stay requirements so be warned.

If you are going to stay in the Val Gardena area you will be fine with public transport. If you want to see other parts of the Dolomites it would be best if you had a rental car.