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Dolomites

Hi,

We are a family of 4 (me, husband, 2 teenage boys ages 15 & 17) from San Francisco, planning a summer trip in August to the Dolomites. [We may go to Berlin for a few days before the Dolomites].

We would like to visit Cortina and hike Tres Chime. We would also like to stay in a hotel on or near a swimmable lake in the Dolomites (not too cold for swimming). Lake Misurina? Or I have read that Lake Issengo is the warmest but don't know if it is a good destination.

Are there any "off the beaten path" places to stay or see? We are not looking to stay in very fancy places as long as they are comfortable and clean. We like small villages with restaurants and bakeries within walking distance when possible.

We would also like to rent bikes (non-motorized) and do a relatively flat bike ride (20mi at most) biking around and seeing sites/eating at cafes or packing a picnic lunch. Thank you for any suggestions.

Best,
Suzanne

Posted by
1532 posts

I did not swim in any lakes in the Dolomites, as the water was too cold, even in summer.
Be sure to bring hiking boots and poles for the Tre Cime hike.

Posted by
16676 posts

Lake Issengo is warmer because it is at lower elevation, and actually is little more than a large pond. It is a long way from the Tre Cime, being northwest of Brunico. It would be an hour’s drive from there to Misurina, where the toll road up to the Tre Cime parking area begins.

Because the tollgate closes when the parking lot at Rifugio Auronzo is full, it is necessary to get there early (before 9 am). It would be much simpler to do that if you stay at Misurina, regardless how cold the water is for swimming.

How many days do you have for the Dolomites in all? I assume with your goals you will have a car? I think you need a minimum of 2 locations/bases to accomplish what you want; one for hiking the Tre Cime (Misurina or Cortina, which uses farther away), and another for your cycling and village bakery experience. I would not want to be cycling with my kids (or by myself for that matter) on those narrow Dolomites roads with car, bus and motorcycle traffic. The best cycling is up on Alpe di Siusi, where you can ride the paved but traffic-restricted roads, or the trails designated for mountain bikes. There are nearly-level routes all over the Alpe—-but no village there. So you could stay in Ortesei in the valley, at a hotel with a pool and a bakery nearby, and ride the lift up to Alpe di Siusi for your day of cycling.

There are a number of mountain huts and restaurants scattered around the meadow. When we were there last September with my son’s family (Tween boys), they rented bikes and spent the morning cycling while we hiked, then we all met up at a nice place for lunch, and walked down to a different restaurant for the 13:00 Alphorn concert. That was a great day.

Posted by
5911 posts

We will be in the Dolomites in September. We are spending more of our time in Castelrotto/Ortisei area, but wanted to drive to Venice via Cortina. Not sure what your price range is, but I found Cortina lodging prices to be high. We will be staying somewhat close to Cortina in San Vito di Cadore at Hotel Il Cardo. I know little about it other than they have breakfast for my husband and seems to be well reviewed.

Posted by
74 posts

Thank you very much. any other itinerary ideas or feedback are welcome. Best, Suzanne

Posted by
85 posts

Since you plan to hike Tre Cime, consider visiting Lago di Landro (Dürrensee) to go swimming: https://throneandvine.com/lago-di-landro-durrensee/. It is a shallow lake set beneath the Cristallo Group and is located near the toll road to Tre Cime. Another biking option to consider is in Val di Funes: https://throneandvine.com/val-di-funes/. Here, you can bike from village to village if that is the kind of experience you are looking for. However, I'd recommend an ebike as it is hillier than biking on Alpe di Siusi.