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Does Anybody Stay in Fiesole?

Traveling with wife & two cousins to Italy next spring, with a 4-day stop in Florence. Our third trip to Firenze. Some of the group picture a Tuscan villa for the four (possibly six) of us--that's fine and well, but we won't have a car and are concerned that we wouldn't be able to get to Florence city center on a daily basis. I don't like being a captive audience!

We've never visited Fiesole but was wondering if a villa in or around there would fit the bill. It's an inexpensive 25 minute bus ride to the SMN station. I know that in ancient times Florentians would escape the sweltering heat in 'the bowl' for the hilltown. Won't have to worry about that in April.

Any experiences staying in Fiesole or someplace similar that would serve our purposes?

Posted by
84 posts

Jay,
I think this is a great idea, especially since you have been to Firenze before.
I have only spent an afternoon in Fiesole, many years ago, but have always wanted to return. (I actually had an eerie feeling that I had been there before, even though I hadn't) As you say, it's a short bus ride to SMN, and you can escape the crowds, as needed.
I was planning on staying there, last year, but as it happened we stayed in Florence. There is a hike from Fiesole to Settignano, that looks wonderful (and part of my reasoning for staying there). If you're into it, that'd be a nice change from the city.
We were there in May, last year, and it was extremely crowded. I'd go in March or April, if I had another chance.

Posted by
820 posts

Hello Jay, I haven't done this but many veterans of Florence have reported doing this to have a quiet retreat from the city while still having easy access.

Bus access is easy - check out like 7 of the Tuscany busline: https://www.at-bus.it/it/linee-e-orari/firenze-urbano-7
but remember that service maybe on Saturday and definitely Sunday will be reduced.

Assuming the place your staying is close enough to the center of town to easily catch the bus and everyone in your group is comfortable taking the bus in what groups may go off on their own this seems like it could work. My issue with this idea is that when you day trip you often can't stay and have dinner somewhere because the Italians eat so late the last train/bus is an issue but the buses to Fiesole look like they run past midnight. Worst case scenario is some one gets really gets stuck and takes a cab but it is close enough for that if it comes to that.

Sounds like an adventure. Have a great trip,
=Tod

Should have added - search Fiesole on these boards and I'm sure you'll find previous discussions about transport etc.

Posted by
1949 posts

Yeah, that's right, Tod--my concern as well. But--and I have no idea--how prevalent is Uber (or similar) for this route? and how pricey? That might make that kind of situation somewhat easier. Actually, I'm asking about Uber prevalence for all areas I'm visiting--Taormina (Sicily), Salerno, Florence, Rome.

And now to look for a villa near the Fiesole station!

Posted by
142 posts

Want to say the cab fare to/from Florence was around €25-30. Not “cheap” per se but totally manageable if you need it.

Posted by
820 posts

No Uber in Italy so what Uber does is kind of shunt you to a taxi or a custom kind of limousine service or something similar. I would ignore it and just use the cabs. You are only supposed to get taxis at taxi ranks or have them called for you by an app or by phone. The apps solve the insufficient Italian for phone calls issue and I've heard that most hotels and larger stores will call you a cab if you're really in a bind and ask them.

Bus tickets can be purchased at most Tabach shops marked with the black and white T sign and sometimes there are machines that are in sometimes dubious states of repair. Validate your ticket when you get on. Rome has started to add "tap in" payment on buses but it was not in place last year that I saw in Tuscany yet.

There are additional buses - looks like the 45 and 47 - that run deeper into Fiesole once you get off the 7. Whether taking two buses is a bridge too far to make this work for your plan is up to you.

Google maps transit tab works pretty well for bus schedules and stops in Northern Italy and I'd be surprised is there also isn't a Autolinee Toscane app. Once you've done it once or twice it just becomes the normal, routine thing you do.

Have a great trip,
=Tod

Posted by
15215 posts

Lots of people stay in Fiesole, some of my friends lived there. Unfortunately my family couldn’t afford to live in the Florence equivalent of Beverly Hills, so we lived in the flat land. Although it’s nice to be there, among the wealthy, however if your plan is to visit Florence, it is not ideal because you will spend a lot of time commuting back and forth by bus or taxi.

Posted by
1949 posts

Well, that's it as well, Roberto. Say all of us are out exploring Florence during the day, and 1 or 2 of us want to go back to the hotel/villa/condo and take a nap, while the others go on to other attractions. If we're in Fiesole, that's going to be difficult, even though it's only a 25 minute bus ride away.

And as alluded to upthread, I love the idea of a Tuscan villa, but one can't on the spur of the moment say hey, let's go to the leather market or get some gelato. Florence is eminently walkable--from past trips, I am totally enchanted in the early morning on my walks, and late at night, walking by Il Duomo and seeing the relief on the sculptures in the dark. I'd miss that I think. We'll see!

Posted by
7335 posts

Especially because our Florence hotel was unfashionably near SMN station, we found the bus to Fiesole (one day-trip) convenient. But I'd echo the NY Trip Advisor advice, "To see [Florence], stay in [Florence.]" Even if you've been there before, who wants to be trapped in a pleasant but small city? I grew up in a big city, so I'm used to waiting times and delays with mass transit. But people who only use an SUV can get impatient. BTW, I need air conditioning in this area in summer. YMMV.

It also seems illusory to view Florence as a Tuscan town. Yes, it's elevated, and it's in Tuscany. But it's not like San G or Siena or Cortona. It has a nice Roman amphitheater and a few things to see, but I just don't see how it's an improvement on Florence.

Now that I've been to a Family Reunion in a (Vancouver) AirBnB, I confirmed my answer to the question, "Why would I want to shop in unfamiliar stores and use an unfamiliar kitchen, on my vacation?" I like hotel services, and I like restaurants. And I know what damage AirBnB can do to local residents and their real estate markets.

Posted by
165 posts

The Hotel Aurora is smack dab in the center of the main piazza with the #7 bus stop right at the front door. Kind of a funky but cool old place. And I can tell you after staying there three times over the years, Room 11 has the most wonderful huge terrace with an incredible view of the entire city of Florence and beyond.

Posted by
1949 posts

Especially because our Florence hotel was unfashionably near SMN
station, we found the bus to Fiesole (one day-trip) convenient. But
I'd echo the NY Trip Advisor advice, "To see [Florence], stay in
[Florence.]" Even if you've been there before, who wants to be trapped
in a pleasant but small city? I grew up in a big city, so I'm used to
waiting times and delays with mass transit. But people who only use an
SUV can get impatient. BTW, I need air conditioning in this area in
summer. YMMV.

It also seems illusory to view Florence (Fiesole?) as a Tuscan town. Yes, it's
elevated, and it's in Tuscany. But it's not like San G or Siena or
Cortona. It has a nice Roman amphitheater and a few things to see, but
I just don't see how it's an improvement on Florence.

I'm trying to see if there is a compromise, but bottom line is that a 25 min bus ride back to your villa/apartment/condo in Fiesole because you're in central Florence & forgot something or just want to take a nap and let the others go do their thing...that extra step can be a drag. The preconceived idea of a 'Tuscan villa' is beautiful, but for at 2-3 or our group that have never been to Florence, yeah, Tim. Stay in Florence.

We've stayed at Piazza Santa Maria Novella, pretty much across the street from the SMN station, and I really didn't think it was too unsavory. So convenient to almost everything. In fact, there was a Nigerian panhandler guy that 'patrolled' the piazza & tried to sell me an amulet the first day, I said no. But I met him the next day doing his rounds, and we struck up a conversation. Nice, intelligent guy, spoke English well, ended up giving him a few Euro, and we acknowledged each other each day from there. Not a bad thing.