Dinner times in Rome

I deal with situations like this by renting short let apartments and doing my own dinner. It also allows your wife to better manage her current diet plan. However, I know many don't want to do any 'work' while on vacation.
You might find touristy restaurants that open earlier, but it might sabotage her meal plan with their starchy fatty choices. The other option would be for her to find what 'tides her over' in the snack department and have that at 5 or 6 and limit dinner to a 'primi' for later.
Consider being open minded when you get there. It might become natural to spend a little time over a longer (and bigger) mid day meal.

That's when Italians eat, so I would suggest that she try to work with the times. I am finding it hard to believe that the restaurants are closed between 1pm and 7:30pm though, as most Italians that I know START eating lunch at 1pm, and only open for tourists earlier than that. Having a later lunch will help with the later dinner.

I haven't snacked between lunch and dinner much besides gelato, but I know there are some cafes with snack things to purchase all day that she might be able to find something in to tide her over.

Your internal clock might be off for a day or so, but don't worry, your body will be wanting meals at normal times pretty soon after you land and start sleeping on Italy time.

Cross this off your list of things to worry about.

Yes, Italians (and Spaniards, another example) do eat dinner later than what many of us are used to. But it's not like every restaurant will be closed and locked up until after 19:30. It's true that if you wait until later, you will have more choices, the downside of that is that you will also have a lot more competition for a table.

You can find plenty of places that will open a little earlier, it's not difficult. My wife and I often find that we are the first ones in the door when they open at 6 or 7, we may get an odd look at first (like "do you really want dinner now?") but many places are happy to have you show up a bit early. In fact, in those places where there are too many mouths to feed (increasingly common in Europe in recent experience) it can be hard to get a seat for dinner if you don't get there early. The fact that we're Americans and don't want to linger at the table for 3 or 4 hours helps: many restaurants have reservations for 8 pm or later; in that case we can squeeze in early and move on. In places where it's tough to get a table, we just show up exactly at their opening hour and see if we can get a table then, letting them know we will be fairly quick. Usually works fine.

(As to your internal clocks being stuck 6 hours behind, you should be able to get past that after your first or second day, as long as you stay up on your arrival until after dinner before you yield to the call of sleep....your stomach will adjust to European time soon enough.)

Need to adjust to the local norms, that's why you're traveling right...luckily you're not visiting Spain, where dinner generally starts at 2100
There are plenty of places which are open and serving meals earlier than 1800 but, most of those locations are catering to tourist demands and simply pumping out mediocre plates from the kitchen. In Rome you'll be walking around quite a bit hence, she'll be burning off whatever calories she's trying to count/watch. Breakfast = cafe/pastry, Lunch = sizable meal, Dinner = modest sized meal; in-between lunch and dinner, enjoy an apertivo around 4-5.

I can’t believe she won’t accomadate to local norms as that is what traveling is all about, experiencing other cultures and their differences from your own. Personally, I would gag if I had to eat dinner at 5 or 6 pm.

Thanks

We didn't have that issue in Prague a couple of months ago and I traveled to Spain and Paris before we met/married and didn't have any issues with eating later but she hasn't traveled internationally much and isn't used to cultural differences (don't want to even get into how she reacted at CdG during our short layover!)

And Katherine - my bad. It's 15:00 that they seemed to stop serving, not 13:00. At least according to RS's guidebook......

We were in Rome for 10 days last May staying near the colosseum and never had a problem finding a nice restaurant
to eat at around 5 PM.

Maybe some accommodation can be made with the diet to account for more physical activity (typically people walk a lot more in Europe than at home, especially if they live in a suburban environment) and lighter, healthier food (I'm mostly taking about the veggies and fish, not so much pasta). Also, Italians really don't eat much for breakfast - a simple cornetto roll and a coffee...of course hotels will cater to other tastes and have more food available. I think it's worth trying to eat at the same time as locals at least a few times - it's really the best way to experience their way of life. Then afterwards you can go for a long walk. You've identified the issue with eating early - it self-selects those places that frankly cater to tourists, and who knows how decent they are (if you see locals eating there, then chances are they're fine).

Thanks all - I'll be sure to show her the responses so she'll know it's not just me, lol

Just because the Italians eat late doesn't mean tourists eat at the same time. We always found something to eat when we were ready in Rome.
Although I am substantially larger than most Italians, I cannot begin to eat with them on a Saturday night out. Don't think that you've got to order all the courses on the menu.

Romans generally eat at 9pm at home (take half hour up or down) however when they go out, they tend to go later rather than earlier.

As a result most traditional sit down restaurants don’t open before 7pm. If you show up then, you can probably be done by 8pm or so. If that is not early enough, if not traditional non touristy restaurants, there will be delis, snack bars, pizzerie, rotisseries, and other types of eateries that can accommodate your needs.

However since your body clock is 6 hours behind have a large lunch at 2pm, as most Romans do. That will be your breakfast (8am your body time). By the time you are hungry again it will be 10pm, which is the peak dinner time for Rome restaurants. Your body will think it’s 4pm, more or less when you are used to have dinner at home. After dinner you will have plenty of time to digest a late meal. Rome is very lively till very late at night, like NYC, it’s not like Charlotte where they roll up the sidewalks at 5pm till the next morning.

I'm with Roberto. When in Rome, etc. Also, if you did manage to find a decent place that opened in the afternoon (which is what 17:00 is to Italians, you wouldn't have Italians eating with you in the same space. And isn't spending time with the locals, observing what they do, etc., part of the fun? For me, the people IS the main point, not some monuments and museums. Romans, especially, are animated, have great accents and are fun to observe, even if your Italian is nil. Don't let your American habits make your experience in Italy less than it can be. Rick would tell you that, too.

Thanks all - you don't have to tell me as I have traveled the world and always followed the local customs. However, I am asking for my wife who is much less traveled and more set in her ways. Just trying to find a workable compromise

Herfnerd
The compromise is to have a snack in the afternoon, so that she can hold on till 8pm for dinner.
Also tell her that Weight Watchers doesn’t work and is a scam.
Do you see a lot of fat people in Italy? No!
How many Weight Watchers offices are in Italy? Zero!
See the correlation?
It is not the time you have your meals that determines how much weight you lose, but the quantity of calories ingested vs. the amount of physical activity you do. Spend your day walking around till dinner time and you’ll see that the weight comes down even if you dine at midnight.

Well....I beg to differ with you about WW being as scam as she has tried many things to lose weight and WW is the only program that has worked for her - she's lost 40-45 pounds on it and has kept it off for a year. It's not just a diet but a lifestyle change which does include being more active (she has been going to the gym 3-4 days a week with me) and accounting for what you eat .

I understand your comment about not seeing any WW's in Italy but its different cultures, and the US is unfortunately known as a heavy one. As for when you eat - I know that your body doesn't care when and what you eat as long as your calorie/macros count are within daily guidelines but for some people it's all about consistency. When we were in Prague three months ago, we did a TON of walking and she did watch what she ate for the most part but she still came home up 5 pounds. And for her, going out of her routine and a carb heavy diet is a concern (being in her late 50's doesn't help) - I am just trying to be sensitive to her situation

You won't have trouble finding food, but often it will be in tourist-focused cafes. Or cafes in general, or very casual places, like take away. More traditional restaurants are as you describe - open for dinner somewhere around 19:00, most people don't start eating at 19:30 or 20:00, often later.

My suggestion for at least some of the time is a nice lunch in good restaurants and plan for a picnic or low-key dinner. Also, wine bars are often open, sometimes with an aperativo buffet around 18:00 - this can be a fun experience. If lunch is a couple of big courses at a real restaurant you may not want a big dinner, especially if weight loss is a goal!

Roberto and the others are right, even if sit down restaurants start serving locals (and cooking for locals) at 8 pm, there are other options to get food during the italian afternoon: pizza by the slice places (google "Bonci in Chicago"), aperitivo bars around 7 pm (could be funnny), non-aperitivo bars that sell sandwiches 24/7, street food sellers, bakeries selling focaccia, kebap eateries, gourmet hamburgers etc. etc.

You can eat in the afternoon without dining in a proper restaurant and you will be surrounded by italians and tourists doing the same.

I know the way chefs think: in a posh traditional restaurant in a city full of tourists do not expect the guy with the tall hat to cook for you at 6 pm. If he is not still sleeping at home, Hel'll tell his servants to make food for you while his majesty will be getting ready for the evening shift and "the real customers" (i.e. foodies, fans with starred eyes and groupies).

Thanks all - I've decided to show my wife the responses and let her know that she'll have to make some adjustments if she wants to avoid the touristy dreck

We've done WW while in Italy and managed to lose weigh even when we're living there. Pasta portions are smaller, and you don't even have to go there. Italians were early adopters of gluten-free diets and understand completely if you're good with a piece of fish and a salad. And they don't go overboard with the points, like excess oil. She can order a secondo and a couple of contorni and adhere completely to WW's latest systems. (And it is not a scam--it's a way to change your habits so that you eat everything in balance, and there's a stress on unprocessed foods and a plant-based diet, which pretty much tracks the latest research.)

Sorry for the rant--I've had to be around people who had a hard time adapting to Italian habits and it's left a mark....

Hi Herf,

I'd like to offer some suggestions based on my experiences.

First, congratulations to your wife for keeping loyal to her weight loss since last year (and wanting to stay healthy in this new year.)

No worries for working off any calories consumed. Unless mobility is an issue, you can walk "a lot" in Rome. Since she is on WW, she is aware of her options.

Rome is not all about pasta. She can order a meat dish (chicken, pork or fish) with a vegetable (low in carbs) - no potatoes or get salad. But, the amount of side potatoes they serve in Rome is nothing like what we experience in America - "double sized everything!" Maybe she can skip a fancy dessert and have an espresso or sip Limoncello.

If interested, I can give you the name of the restaurant in the Termini area. I realize it's not close to the Colosseo area. I have no suggestions for the area you are staying in. Or, from my suggestions below, try to find a restaurant similar to the areas you will be in. There is no obligation to stay at a restaurant if the prices or choices are not compatible with you and your wife.

For me, the restaurant I frequented (close in prox. to Termini, where I stay), has two locations about two blocks from each other. They are very, very busy - with locals, business people and travelers. They operate from 12:15 PM to 11:00 PM.

They are a family-style, sit-down, tablecloth, inexpensive restaurant with a buffet bar of assorted veggies, spinach, mushrooms, chicken wings, etc. - didn't try it, but many people did. And, it's not an "all you can eat" buffet - you purchase a small or large plate - and "fill it."

Off the menu, their roasted chicken w/veggies was a popular dish; as I saw it come out of the kitchen often. A "regular" who ate there every night ordered his pasta dish, chicken, etc. A different pasta dish most nights but the chicken always. lol.

Most, if not all of their pastas are homemade. Their menu reflects what choice may be "frozen" ahead - a very small selection of dishes. Their pasta dishes are delicious but not overwhelming. I usually had a pasta dish w/wine or a pizza & "stop." A couple of times, I was extra hungry & ordered melone con prosciutto or carciofi (as a starter) - melon was firm & prosciutto not too salty - Artichokes were delicious. Then I would have dessert, usually tiramisu, which melted in your mouth, & espresso - "on the house." The waiters sometimes bring out a complimentary glass of limoncello.

Back to the business - It started to get busy with patrons 'around' 7:30 PM - travelers & locals alike. By 8:30-9:00 PM, there were no seats, waiting only. The staff do not rush you out the door.

One day, I walked by at "lunchtime" - about 1:00 PM and it was standing room only. One of the waiters saw me and waved me in to say hello. I was not there for lunch but observed many business people dressed in suits, etc. (and some travelers or casual locals) having lunch.

So, it's very possible to find a little restaurant that is not touristy, reasonable prices and a home-town feel, with varied choices for many people.

Anyway, with the complimentary buffet breakfast at my hotel, I had eggs, fruit, sauteed zucchine, (maybe a cornetto), espresso x 2, a bit of cold cuts, cheese, and cherry tomatoes. So, there are choices of healthier or lower carb eating.

I would have a snack bar for "lunch." I was not hungry until about 7:30 or 8:00 PM.

If your wife wants to treat herself to gelato, maybe she can skip the cono and order a cup “coppa” (KOH-pah). Many a gelateria offer different sizes.

Ex. La Romana https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g187791-d4492728-Reviews-Gelateria_La_Romana_Roma-Rome_Lazio.html is very, very good. I'm sure you can find others who are just as good.

Have fun in Rome! I love Rome and had many wonderful experiences and memories. I met so many nice people and made a few good friends :)

"Do you see a lot of fat people in Italy? No!"

Although:

https://www.theguardian.com/society/2018/may/24/the-mediterranean-diet-is-gone-regions-children-are-fattest-in-europe

Herfnerd - I can only go on our experience (often staying not too far from where I'm guessing your hotel is), but I don't think you (or your wife) will have a problem. It is true that the fanciest restaurants may only open later, but that doesn't mean you will be reduced to eating reheated frozen pizza in some fast food joint. Restaurateurs wish to make money, they know they are in an area with many visitors with money and that a lot of those visitors wish to eat earlier. Plenty of perfectly decent places are open.

Herfnerd, congratulations to your Best Girl for her accomplishment! The Battle of the Bulge isn't easy for many so good for her for sticking to it. :O)

I think it isn't so much that you can't find open restaurants at earlier hours - or that those which are open only serve mediocre meals - as much as your choices will be more limited. There are multiple reasons why travelers' mealtimes can vary, and why sometimes they're difficult to re-adjust. Small children, for example, used to routine 8:00 bedtimes might be a complete mess if having to sit a table at 8:00 at night, and no amount of "This is the way it's done in Italy" is going to make squat bit of difference to them.

My husband and I are very early risers (years of corp. America conditioning we can't seem to undo) and only eat sit-down meals twice a day: breakfast and dinner with a light snack midday if needed. Going to bed on a very full stomach also doesn't sit well with either of us so we'd rather eat earlier - we're hungry by 5:00 - 6:00 or so! - than be miserable. It also gives us time to walk some of it off before hitting the rack earlier than a lot of folks do.

That said, we have had very decent meals in Italy before 7:00 but we do try to push it to that hour more often than not. The plus with early dinner has been restaurants happy to seat us, without reservations, at the opening hour before things get really busy. It won't work ALL the time but we haven't had a big issue so far.

So maybe the compromise is to eat at your wife's preferred time a night or two, and 7:00 - 7:30 on some others? As also mentioned, healthy dining will not be an issue: portions are not as large, and all sorts of non or low-carb options are available.

With all the walking you'll be doing, you'll be burning calories like crazy! We've come back from Italy (and our other trips) lighter than before we left!

Congratulations on your wife’s weight loss and your suppportiveness. Having been through that journey before, it means the world to have a caring partner.

You have received some great advice, so I have just a couple more things to add:

• Have your wife bring up the trip at her WW meeting and with her coach. It might be helpful to have them help her not only with the time change, but healthy options she can consider in Rome. She may even share her concern about deviating the schedule and her fellow weight watchers can help her with strategies.
• Bring some snacks both on the plane and for in Rome. Also, bring a collapsible water bottle. Keeping well hydrated will also help her with her routine.

Enjoy your trip,
Sandy

What Dario said is correct. Don’t expect the master chef at the top restaurants to be there at 6pm. I know a few. They show up late for the main shift. The 6 to 8pm crowd (almost exclusively consisting of foreign tourists) get the food prepared by the Moroccan sous chef Al-Fud Iz Al Dull Bfhor Nainh.

Eating the food served elsewhere in the afternoon before dinner is also not conducive to weight loss. It’s not bad, but it is mostly carb based (pizza, sandwiches, focaccia, etc.)

Herfnerd, please read Apaonita's response again. It is spot on. My husband and I have been doing intermittent fasting for many months and usually eat one (maybe two every so often) meals a day. Like WW it is a lifestyle change which has produced many benefits regarding weight, energy levels, great lab results etc... HOWEVER...when we return to Rome this Spring I plan to do and eat as I please and embrace the good fortune of being where I am and enjoying the people around me. All the walking will take care a few extra calories. And so what if a few pounds come on? We all know how to get rid of them. I ask your wife to relax, be flexible and enjoy the moment. I cannot imagine myself (or her) thinking on our individual deathbeds "gee, I wish I had passed on that spectacular gelato in Rome..."

Congratulations to your wife on her weight loss!!! What an accomplishment! I think that she will find Italian restaurants to be very flexible — I’m just dreaming of lovely vegetable dishes, maybe some spinach with olive oil. Yum!