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December travel

Booking a trip for the first week of December and would love tips, recommendations advice, etc. starting in Munich Dec 3 - 5, overnight in Bolzano 5-6, head to Castelrotto 6-8, then down to Rome 8-12.

My biggest question so far is where do I stay in Rome? I’m looking at Airbnbs and it’s just overwhelming with the options and being unfamiliar with the neighborhoods. For reference, my husband and I love exploring, food, cafes, shops. We, of course, want to see the main Rome sights but want to have an authentic feel, while being safe! Any advice for neighborhood to focus on and what to expect?

Am I choosing the right village of Castelrotto? Every time I think I’ve nailed it down, I see others! We want to do an easy hike/walk and we’re not skiiing. Just want to enjoy the views, food, etc. I chose this village because it was described as being at the base of a mountain and higher altitude. We want that “holy crap we’re in the Italian alps” feel.

Curious if anyone has done the train from Munich to Bolzano. I’m seeing the OBB train as the best option. What are the views like?

Overall, any advice or recs are appreciated! It’s our first time in Europe and we’re so excited for this trip!

Posted by
2762 posts

I can say that charming Castelrotto is the right place for a nice hike in the Alpe de Siusi in the Dolomites. We stayed at the charming Hotel Cavallino! You will be delighted in this village. Easy access to the lifts and excellent restaurants too.
For Rome, I Stayed in the Hotel Lancelot which is near the Coliseum. Lovely hotel with plentiful breakfast buffet.

I just noticed you said the first week of December so I think snow will affect your opportunities for hiking. I was in Castelrotto in September.

Posted by
2 posts

Thank you! We are looking at that same hotel to stay! Snow is totally fine for our hike and I read that it may just be light, if anything. Either way, if it’s too snowy we will just explore the town instead or go to the spa!

Posted by
183 posts

We just took RailJet this week, but in the opposite direction. After being in the Dolomites, I’d say the views are pretty, but nothing dramatic. That being said, it’s a very easy trip. We purchased through the Deutsche Bundesbahn app, which was cheaper than from OBB, and if you can purchase in advance, it’s further discounted. Just be aware you can’t make changes with the discounted fare. We were also glad we purchased reserved seats, as the train was full. If you have the chance to see Ötzi while in Bolzano, do it! It’s a wonderful exhibit. Enjoy your trip!

Posted by
1302 posts

Your questions about the train has been answered. It is easy enough. In Rome the hotel Lancelot is popular with many Forum posters and is down near the Coliseum. We liked the Oceana Hotel which is just north of the Termini Station.

As to the Dolomites, you are going to the mountains early in meteorological winter, when the sun rises about 8 and sets about 4:30. Anywhere within the Dolomites you can get the "We're in the Alps" vibe easily enough.
https://www.suedtirol.info/en/en
In Bolzano the bus station is 50m north of the main train station and one can get the Transport app to book tickets through the South Tirol website. But the tickets are cheap anyway and there is a ticket window.

The main ski lifts open on December 4, 2026 so you'll be riding the lifts with lots of people hoping for early season snow. This may affect your ability to hike much. But, once the lifts open many people go up for the packed-snow walking trails that are also available. But, be careful, early season out-of-shape skiers may cross the hiking paths unpredictably. Some places even have horse drawn sleigh rides (Compatsch is where I have seen them).There are also bars/cafe's at the tops pf the lifts of course.

I know Castelrotto is loved by RS and many others (and me too for skiing) but: 1) There is no lift in Castelrotto. You have to take a short bus ride to Siusi/Seiser Alm to get the gondola to Compatsch and the Alpi di Siusi. If you pick Ortisei, Santa Christina or Selva you can walk to the lifts easily. 2) Local transport is not a problem because your hotel will give you a free bus pass so on bad weather days you can easily visit other towns. In summer you can go up one lift, take your hike, come down another lift and get the free bus on the valley road home. In the winter I would go up, hike a circuit and come back down the way you went up.

And a note on Bolzano beyond Otzi at the Archeological Museum. There is a gondola in Bosen/Bolzano up to Oberbozen (Soprabolzano) which is on the Rittner plateau above town which also has walking trails and a small rail line Rittnerbahn.
https://www.suedtirol.info/en/en/experiences-and-events/plp-experiences/experiences-south-tyrol/pdp-experience.smgpoi4092c7f3556cf90a08737717b34ebe03.cablecar-ritten-bozen-oberbozen.soprabolzano-oberbozen

Have fun. The local wine in the Dolomites is called LaGrein and is excellent. Many restaurants in the Dolomites feature local game too.