We will be overnighting in Livorno on a cruise ship after seeing Florence the day before. What is the best way to get to see both Pisa and Lucca? If you had to choose one, which would it be?
Thanks.
It depends on what kind of experience you are looking for in your visit.
Both are easily accessible by train from Livorno - Pisa 1 hour direct from Livorno and Lucca is another 30 minutes on from Pisa. The train station is across town from the cruise port but given the number of people trying to get from the cruise ship to the train station I would be surprised if the cruise line (or some enterprising company) doesn't fill that gap. There are also places that arrange cruise excursions from Livorno that include Pisa and/or Lucca from Livorno including transportation.
Pisa obviously has The Tower as well as the Baptistery and the walls around the Field of Miracles. If you have an interest in seeing it then it is probably worth going and doing the very touristy thing. (See posts about getting a time for the tower in this forum.) Pisa aside from that is a work a day Italian college town. I know some people really like it and you'll get a mini tour if you do the 25 minutes walk from the train station. Outside the charm of Pisa will be more on you to search out and find.
Lucca is a charming medieval town built on top of the Roman town and expanded and surrounded by thick walls. There are walls to walk, several towers to climb if you want and many churches and piazzas to visit and see but no blockbuster "sights" like Pisa. Everyone has their favorites and I like Lucca. It is touristy but nothing like Siena or the really famous sites and the tours groups you do see are generally smaller and most people look like they just want to find a place to sit down and rest since I think most them are coming in the afternoon after Pisa. Because Lucca city continues outside the walls the interior is generally more curated shops and restaurants and less 'everyday' Italian life but not anywhere near the point of San Gimignano or Venice or someplace super touristy.
I'd check out both options in Google maps and decide what interests you more and how much time you're willing to spend doing it and then plan accordingly.
Have a great visit,
=Tod
I am going to them both myself this month. Go to Lucca for the old-world genuine Italian experience. Have gelato at the Coltelli place, walk on the wall and let Lucca relax you.
I have heard that De' Coltelli closed but the replacement in the same spot has the same woman making the same crazy flavor combinations. My wife loved the Sea Buckthorn combination flavor when we were there. It is still recommended.
I think the guy running it may have moved the original De' Coltelli to Pisa instead.
Other reccomendations:
Gelateria Veneta Via V. Veneto, 74
Momo Gelati Via della Fratta, 11
Cioccolateria Caniparoli - sorbets Via San Paolino, 44 (for chocolates and sorbets)
Many of these cribbed from the consensus in the Life in Lucca podcast which I recommend if you are interested in Lucca.
=Tod
Reporting back from on the ground in Lucca:
- ele Gelato and Granite (the replacement for De' Coltelli in the same spot) continues to be amazing and have crazy flavor combinations.
Tried so far:
- Bergamot and Black Tea Sorbet (great, but I like Bergamot)
- Licorice Gelato
- Walnut and Ginger Gelato
- Lime and Basil Sorbet
Not weird but the slated caramel gelato was amazing and the Raspberry sorbet was super strong. Have not tried the Saffron gelato.
The offer Gelato, sorbets and granite so pay attention to which section of the sign the flavors are on. I like fruit flavors and they tend to sorbets for the pure fruits - smoother than the sorbets in the US but not creamy like the gelatos.
Also:
Momo Gelati was good
Cioccolateria Caniparoli does do chocolates - including dark and regular that are really rich
Veneta was actually good but I reserve judgement because they do things in a touristy way of which I'm not such a fan.
Tried a few other places that we fine - nothing bad but I would hope that I could spot a bad spot and skip it altogether.
Always have the gelato!
=Tod
PISA
Having just returned from Pisa last Friday I can attest to the presence of a pisan Coltelli gelateria, next to the wonderful Hotel Royal Victoria on Lungarno Pacinotti. A trusted source, sitting on the same wall, confirmed that 2 out of 3 flavours, among them the Lampone flavour, were magnificent and instantly handed them a 4.5 grade out of a possible 5. The same source awarded several flavours, among them the Cremino (hazelnut/chocolate) flavour, 4.5 after we had returned and had more gelato back home at Gelaterian.
Long have I suspected that sweets are better back home than anywhere else in the world, no matter what any guide book might say, and yet again this turns out to be true. Around the corner from Coltelli was Bottega (a 50 second walk), where I ordered Amaretto, Fragola and Banana once and twice. Suspicions strengthened. A thorough investigation is essential. I must immediately taste all the gelato in the world without undue delay.