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CT and Rome in November

Hi. My husband and I will be arriving through Malpensa airport (Milano) on the 4th of November. We are scheduled to leave Italy through Rome on the 8th of November.

My husband would love to visit the CT and hike the trails if the weather will allow on the first two days. We will then leave the CT to Rome (by train) to spend 2 nights and fly home.

We have very little time left to plan and we will need some help with the below:

  • Where should we base our CT stay for train travel convenience and lovely memories? November is rainy, and in case the weather is bad, the village and hotel choices need to compensate for a missed hike.

I am hoping for a fairly large clean room with a view in a nice hotel.

May you please suggest a hotel in the proposed village.

  • Any restaurants choices for a romantic lunch/dinner?

  • In case you will suggest that we skip CT all together, any other destination recommendations for a memorable visit to Italy in November for a romantic escapade?

Thank you.

Posted by
15812 posts

Dina, the tall and short of it is that weather is going to be a crapshoot: it could be sunny and reasonably warm, and it could be chilly, windy and very wet. It could also be somewhere in between. The problem with the CT is that when the weather is lousy, there's no a lot to do. The villages are very small, and some of the businesses/restaurants may already be closed for the season.

You're also allowing very little time for the CT and Rome. By the time you subtract your transport time, you're left with 1.5 days of sightseeing for each. Honestly, given just 4 nights, I would have flown directly to Rome and stayed there for the duration: you'll barely scratch the surface in 3.5 days. That one also offers more indoor attractions to see when the weather doesn't cooperate.

One other reason for spending all of your time there is that the 6th is a first Sunday of the month: all of the National Museums are free and mobbed on that day, and the Vatican museums are closed. It's not as if there won't be some other things to do but it would leave you only the 7th cram in the biggies (Colosseum, Vatican, etc.) if some of those are on your to-do list.

That said, if you keep your plan for the CT I would suggest Monterosso as it's the largest, has the most accommodations, and will likely have the most still open in early November. I'll have others suggest hotels as we loved the location and view from ours but it's a no-go if you want a large room. It may also already be fully booked at this late date.

If it were me, I'd save the coast for another time and go to Florence, if you want to do 2 locations. You can get to Rome from there in 90 minutes by the fastest direct trains. We loved Firenze: lots to do and see, wonderful Medieval architecture and glorious Renaissance art.

One option: should the 5th be dry and sunny, you could day-trip to the CT from Florence. There is a 7:38 AM train leaving from Firenze Campo Di Marte station at 7:38 that'll have you at La Spezia Centrale by 9:11. You're only a few minutes from Riomaggiore (and a few more minutes to others of the villages) by local train from there. It returns from La Spezia at 19:59, arriving at Firenze Campo Di Marte at 21:40. These is the fastest way to do it and involves no changes between Florence and La Spezia.

Posted by
15182 posts

You only have 4 nights in Italy. I'm not even sure why you are bothering to land in Milan and depart from Rome.
At this point I would go straight to Florence upon landing, spend two nights in Florence, lastly take the train to a Rome for the last two nights. Both stays are too short but given your flight arrangements I can't think of too many choices. 4 nights are barely enough for Rome, but since you have to pass through Florence, you might as well see it.
The Cinque Terre in November are a waste of time and the trails are likely closed.

Posted by
15812 posts

Roberto, it was my understanding that the trails are open in the off season unless closed for repair or inclement weather. Regardless, I agree: go directly to Florence or Rome and skip the CT if hiking is the primary reason to go there.

Posted by
1829 posts

CT is not that easy to get to, with your timing you definitely do not have time.
You really should do one location (Florence or Rome) but if you insist on going to 2 these are the 2 I would recommend and most definitely skip the CT.

Even if not Nov I would say the same but Nov. makes this decision even easier.

Believe as Kathy mentioned CT trails may call themselves closed if not manned but unless currently under repair (which a couple are and have been for years) they are open to walkers with the caution that the trail is unmanned at the time so more precautions than normal may be needed.
Weather is very iffy here in Nov and most shops will be closed so there will be nothing for you to do if it rains in any of the 5 towns. Even the shops normally open will probably keep the doors closed on a rainy Nov day.

Lastly want to add because it comes up all of the time, other than Monterosso which is the largest town, the other 4 towns really have NO hotels. Even in Monterosso there are not that many, since this area has resisted development and outside funds, it has maintained local ownership. In the other 4 towns you will find Bed and Breakfast type places while Monterosso will have those plus a few options which are larger so considered hotels.
Each of the 5 towns is very tiny.
I find Monterosso to have the least charm/picturesque feel of the 5 but for many it is the best option to stay. More places to stay, more restuarants, things to do and most of all less steps ; usually accomadations are easier to reach. Especially those places with a view in the other 4 towns will be involve difficult steps and often a long walk with luggage.
Those seeking a large resort style hotel should stay in one of the areas near the CT but not actually in one of the 5 towns.

Posted by
288 posts

We hiked the CT from Monterosso to Corniglio on the 1st of December last year. We had good weather and made sure we did before we went there. The day was nice (partly cloudy and about 60). The towns were very quiet, but enough was open to find meals on the waterfront in Vernazza and for breakfast and lunch in Corniglio. Hiking was great that day as it was uncrowded, dry and not hot as it can be in the summer. But if you go there I would have alternatives if the weather looks bad.

Posted by
32212 posts

dina,

I agree with Roberto. For travel in November, forget the Cinque Terre as I'm not sure you will have any "lovely memories". The weather is likely to be an issue at that time of year, and if it's raining parts of the trails can be treacherous, and they can become impassable without any warning. In addition to that, many of the tourist related businesses will have closed for the season and even if you can find a few hotels or restaurants that are open, it's not going to be pleasant stuck in your hotel room in the rain. There's really not much to do there in bad weather.

I also agree that with such a very short time frame, limiting your stops to Florence and Rome would be the best idea. Both cities offer lots of opportunities for "lovely memories", even with inclement weather. Keep in mind that some of your touring time is going to be needed for transportation between locations, so that will reduce your time for sightseeing. Usually each change of location requires about four hours, when all is considered.

Posted by
15182 posts

Most famous floods in Italy:
Florence: 3 November 1844
Venice: 4 November 1966
Florence: 4 November 1966
Cinque Terre/Liguria: 25 Oct and 4 Nov 2014
I'm not even going to mention the one in Florence of 1333. That was also Nov 4.

Enough said. Bring a sturdy umbrella with you.

Posted by
10 posts

Thank you all for your kind replies.

Since my plane tickets are already purchased and before I take the decision to pay for the change, will renting a car give me the flexibility to navigate the area freely and save some train changes time?

Will the drive from Malpensa airport to La Spezia be easy?
Will the drive from La Spezia to Rome be easy?

Why does renting a car from the airport cost so much for the extras?

Again thank you all and I really appreciate your help.

Posted by
15812 posts

Personal preference: take the trains.

Car rental comes with its own hosts of issues, and will be of no advantage in the the CT or Rome. Rentals are good for exploring the Tuscan and Umbrian countrysides (and some other areas of the country) but you don't have time for that unless you're scrapping the CT and sightseeing in Rome altogether for a different agenda.

Posted by
10196 posts

Fog. Gray, drizzle. Taking the train to Florence and Rome is faster, safer, and will give you good memories.

I'm just over the border on the Mediterranean visiting family in France. Every other day is cool, raining and foggy. it gets worse east of Milan. A cousin in Umbria right now had fog in her photos today, too. I'd avoid driving in the countryside and no reason to drive in a city.

Posted by
1829 posts

For a 4 night trip to Rome and Florence or Rome and CT a rental car will be more like your worst enemy than your best friend. Stick to the train. If you had more time and wanted to explore the Tuscan countryside, that is different.

Posted by
32212 posts

dina,

As others have mentioned, a rental car is not the best idea, as there are some potentially expensive "traps" for those not used to driving in Italy. More importantly, with such a very short trip it's prudent to minimize your transportation times and maximize your touring times. The high speed trains travel at up to 300 km/h, which is a much more efficient use of your limited travel time.